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Showing results for tags 'bolt'.
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Hi, Thought I'd ask if anyone has a better solution than the one I am about to try. The previous owner of my bike stripped the crap out of the oil filter bolt and I am unable to get it off. My plan is to cut a slot in the bolt head with my dremel and then use an impact driver to see if I can get it undone. Any other ideas? Anyone know if the bolts bust off in the block since these are hollow? I already have a replacement bolt, oil and filter. So it shouldn't be bad once I get it off. Thanks, Ian
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I just broke the bottom shock bolt on 86 vr. Does anyone have extra bolt, or know where to find.yamaha site says see dealer (doesn't sound good) will call them asap.
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Dag-Nab-It broke a bolt off on my RSV seat today. I had one loosen and fall off one time and luckily found it sitting on the engine. So, today after doing some maintenancec, i tightened one too tight . Any ideas on a fix? When I do come up with a fix, I'm gonna add some small rubber washers between the seat pan and the nuts to keep them from loosening. Maybe use a light strength version of Lock Tite on them.
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Ok.....here I am again. In the middle of attempting to install Buckeyes upgrade stator. In pretty good shape so far. All the bolts came out fine from the cases and the only bolts that gave me grief were the retaining clip bolts on the wiring harness for the stator and the pick up coil on the inside of the case. Got that done. God Bless Dremel! The old stator tested fine and all the leads test equal volts but the top of the stator is black and melted. Good time for the change. While I'm in there I want to take a look at the starter engage clutch and install the stator cooling kit. I was surprised it didn't have one but I had one on the self. So with that said here is where I'm at. THE BOLT! The 19mm rotor bolt is one tough cookie. Been at it for a 1/2 hour working on it with a 1/2 drive impact wrench. Added a little heat, not much, with a propane torch and still no movement. I'm open for suggestion here. How hot can I go or should I? I really want to get to the starter clutch and get the cooling kit installed but I got to get past this danged bolt. Thanks Mike -
Tonight I broke one of the forward mounting bolts on my saddlebag trim rails...don't ask how!? It's the one that mounts into the crash bar by the passenger footrest. It's approx 2" long with a chromed hex head on it. Not sure the threading. I found they come included with the rails when ordering but can't find anything that tells me what that screw itself would be. Anyone know where I could get a part # and/or order a replacement? I'll try looking locally, but the small town hardware store more than likely won't have these so I'll end up paying more for shipping than for the bolt...but hey, gotta have one in the hole that's for sure! That is if I can find one! Thanks for the help...JR -
I was removing my rear wheel today and somehow managed to sheer off the axle pinch bolt. I was surprised 'cause I didn't put a lot of force into it, but I guess leverage did the trick. Anyways, I have a small amount of the end of the bolt sticking out at the underside of the pinch. It seems pretty well seized in there. I immediately reached for the kroil and got it started soaking for about half an hour. I then put a nice sharp pair of vicegrip jaws onto the protruding bolt end, but still couldn't shift it. I then tried heat but no go so far. I am going to let the kroil soak over night and then have another go in the morning. If still no joy, I think I'll try MORE heat, lots more heat. I am being very gentle as I don't want to run the risk of sheering off or damaging the protruding bit of the bolt, which would leave me nothing to work with. Have I overlooked any other good approaches here ? I really don't want to have to drill this out! Advice welcome. Thanks, Brian H.
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One of things that I have wanted to add to my '84 was more switches to control extra lighting and power for other toys. As you all know the 1st gen is lacking in any flat panel spaces to really do a clean and accessable install in the cockpit area. I'd seen the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder switch panel and I thought there had to be a way to install something without obstructing anything on the controls. So I went digging in my odds and ends and after a quick trip to Radio Shack and a stop at the hardware store this is what I came up with. No mods to the bike, controls, panels or handle bars. This will mount by changing one bolt. Parts needed: (1) Radio Shack Project box. I used a 4x2x1 model. Part # 270-1802 (1) 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 2" stainless bolt. (2) 3/8 washers (an extra couple for spacing if you like) (3) On/Off switches / your choice, just watch that they are not too big. (1) Steel spacer / 1" long x 3/8 I.D. Just needs for the bolt to go through it. (1) 1/2 I.D. rubber grommet. (3 ft) Plastic wiire loom casing or wrap. (4) Small self tapping machine screws. Of course wire, terminals, sealant, and a few zip ties. And maybe a beer. Tools: A drill with a bit the size of the switch studs. All my holes were 3/8. A Dremel is great but a small file or Exacto knife will do fine. And either wire crimpers or a soldering gun. First things first and I'll try to keep the pics in the right order to follow along. Open up the project box and remove the metal top panel and lid. The metal panel is meant to be the top plate for the box. I mounted it on the bottom to reinforce that where the bolt will go through. It will fit over the bumps on the bottom of the box so just drill small holes in the center of the bumps and attach it with the self tapping machine screws. Set up how you want your switches to lay. Mark your holes and carefully (my box is ABS) and drill the proper size holes for the switch studs. Now drill a 3/8 hole in the bottom of the case (and metal plate) for the mounting bolt. Check your placement on the bike but about dead center is good. Don't install the switches yet. There will be some ridges inside the box. You will need to grind or file them down so the switch retaining nuts will seat flat. Again, check your postion on the bike and decide where you want the wires to exit the box. Drill a hole and install a rubber grommet. It needs to be large enough to slip the wiring loom casing though it. Ok, slip the 10mm bolt through the hole from the inside before you install the switches. Check for clearence at the terminal studs to prevent shorting them on the bolt head. Slip a washer over the bolt, then the 1" spacer and another washer. Ok, now where to mount it? Look at the clutch master cylinder and see where the mute button in bolted on. The Royales should all have that, the standards may not. Which ever model you have there will be a blind 10mm hole in the body of the master. Remove the bolt and install the assembly with the new bolt there. Use washers to adjust the height so it clears the mute control. It will be above the master clyinder cover so you can open that to added fluid without removing the new panel. Adjust the position to your liking an tighten the bolts. I'm using star lock washers to hold it in place. Now you can install the switches and wiring. Before replacing the plastic cover make sure you have room for the inner lip to clear the nuts on the switches. I had to do a little grinding. A little sealant around the cover and were the wires drop out should keep the inside dry. I drilled a very small weep hole in the lowest corner of mine. So that is pretty much it. Don't look to bad, in a good location for the left hand, it don't interfer with anything else and should hold up real well. Paint or finish it to your needs. I had most the stuff laying around so cost was under $12.00 for what I had to pick up. If you had to buy it all maybe under $30.00. Maybe this will solve some problems for a few folks. Just a DIY day around here. Good luck. (An added note: I bought another project box and took the metal plate from it and polished it to a high gloss to go on the top of my finished panel. Looked real nice. Rode for about half and hour and went home and painted it flat black. Worse than a chrome gas cap.) Mike
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Anyone have a set of original black bolt covers for the 2nd gen front fuel tank bolts? I'm looking for a set. Thanks in advance.
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I bought a pair of the Diamond R swinging pegs for my passenger. To install, the rear floorboard bolt needs to be removed. The left side one was very tight, but it came out. The right side one is beyond tight. I was using the bike toolkit since I wanted to install them at lunch and surprise her after work. The L-shaped "allen wrench" didn't move it, so I used the tube to make a breaker bar. No joy. I don't want to damage the bolt, so I stopped. Is the bolt really that tight? Should I use penetrating oil? Ideas? Dave
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I have completed putting in my new steering bearings. BUT no where in the service manual does it give the torque spec. for the fork brace all our 1st gens have. Torque spec. is typically the result of female metal strength, size and thread of bolt. LOOKING at the bolt. I think 14 ft/lbs would be about right. Anyone know the spec for sure? Oh, and I do have the super brace. But I know that does not alter the OEM correct torque setting. -
OK, so I was going to change the oil on the bike. I've done it before and it was much harder then because I didn't have the oil filter relocation kit - I had to take of the pipes and everything. I spent half an hour trying to just loosen the drain bolt and I can't do it. I hate myself right now. Anyone have any tips for getting the sucker loose? I'm not going to try again until tomorrow - I can only handle so much humiliation in one day. --Courtney:crying:
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So last time I was out riding as I went around a corner I heard that familiar sound of metal hitting ground. Kinda like dropping a wrench on concrete. I pulled over right away to check out my baby and didn't see anything odd or wrong with her. Rode the few miles to home and looked it over a little better but still didn't see anything. Skip forward to today and I jump on for a short ride and I can hear a a rattling noise coming from the back of the bike. So I jump off determined to locate this racket once and for all. Start with the trunk, nothing loose a broken. Move to the bags, nope still nothing. OK let's check safety chrome, yep there we go. The right saddlebag guard is the source. Apparently the end cap bolt came loose and I lost both the bolt and the little cap that connects to the crash bar(near passenger foot). So the question is, can I buy just that part or is it one of those all or nothing things? Or if anyone has one off a crashed bike and that rail is damaged and they don't need that little end cap I'd be happy to purchase it from them. Thanks in advance, I'll be outside doing a thorough nut check. Stop it you know what I mean!
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When taking the cover off the left side of 83' ,I dont know and cant find info on the proper removal instructions, I took off the smaller plate that is heald on with the 2 screws, then there is a bolt that connects to the crank, my question is does that nut need to come off to remove the cover or do I need to just work harder at pulling the cover off, THANX!!!!
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Bolt in my seat broke off even with my seat. Is there a simple way to get this out? Thanks
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I saw a post here the other day on Platinum Burners from Wal Mart for running lights, so I took a look at what they had. I noticed these small chrome lights for $15 a pair and had an idea. I don't really need any additional lighting on the front, but I have been thinking about more visible brake lights. Sure enough I was able to locate red bulbs on the net that are replacements for the white ones. ($2.75 ea) I started trying to figure where to mount them and tried a couple of locations. This is what I ended up with. I tried them turned up and then turned down. I like the down position better. These lights have small brackets that are adjustable up and down, right and left. No drilling or anything. I simply removed the mounting bolt that came with the lights, removed the nut holding the turn signal, added the new light and put the stock bolt back in place. Took less than 5 minutes to put them both on, but I haven't wired them yet. If I like it, great. If not, well, I blown 20 bucks for a lot less before. Jeff -
After searching and reading over the searched items on this forum, I didn't find a quick homemade fix of a fuel petcock knob replacement for an '84 Venture. Understanding that most just leave it on reserve and forget about it because: -too awkward to reach while riding anyway -who needs prime when you have a fuel pump -$36 to replace with an OEM plastic one I still would like to make it functional and am thinking of things to thread in the existing petcock, such as a bolt with some kind of flat headed bolt to have enough leverage to be able to turn on occasion. Mine is missing the knob altogether. Metal would hold up better anyway, right? Any thoughts?
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I am needing to find the plug that goes into the hole to hide the bolt for the handle bar adjustment nut. Any suggestions? Thanks
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I have been seeing a little coolant on the engine. This is on a 1st gen 1992 model. I see some under the bike, usually the next day after it has been riden. There is a small hole(I suppose it is a drain or something on the side of the head). The hole is under the plate on the side on the cylinder block. It looks like some has drained under the plate. It nevers does it while it's hot, or when I look at it for that matter. Beside the spark plug there is a large allen head bolt. From looking at the parts break down, there are o'rings in there somewhere. Anyone ever seen this before or had to replace these o'rings. Anything special I need to know before taking out this plug?
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Have you ever wondered where the motor support brace bolt (the one that hides behind the brake reservoir) goes when you drop it while reinstalling the brace? Note to self just remove the reservoir first it makes it easier. Anyway, that bolt ends up in the radiator fan housing. It is completely invisible to the naked eye. I spent at least a half hour or so looking for it yesterday. Finally I got the bright idea to stick my hand in to turn the fan blade. As soon as I started to turn the blade I could hear that sound of metal clanking as I turned the fan. The good news is after a couple of turns the bolt fell out the bottom onto the floor. Super Bowl Sunday was spent successfully changing the spark plugs, air filters and radiator fluid thanks to all the step by step guidance provided here. The next session I plan to add the Gen Mar risers, change the gas filter and of course the oil. Come on Spring!!!!! Thanks for the help, Dave
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Today I was taken apart the front forks on my 83 RSV to replace seals and springs. I was following steps I printed from this site. When it came time to remove hex bolts at the bottom of each fork I turned and turned and got nowhere. I looked down inside the fork from the top and had someone turn the bolt. I could see the inside of the fork tube turning with the bolt. It turned hard so my question is. If I use a impact gun will this get the bolts out? I have the use of an impact saturday but wanted to ask the question before I tried. I see in the pictures I printed out from this site that a impact was used. Just don't want to ruin anything....Thanks.
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Hi guys! Well the cold weather hit and I went a few too many days without starting my firstgen VR and bought a Black & Decker trickle charger at a local store. Its a sweet little unit that comes with three interchangeable connectors, 1 that you can bolt onto the terminals and leave it on there for quick plugin, a 2nd with alligator clips and a 3rd thats a cigarette lighter plug. I was preparing to pull the false tank cover and bolt on the first when I remembered...Hey, my venture has a cigarette lighter, so I took the easy way and plugged the trickle charger in that way. An hour later and Vroom! Vroom! it started right up. Great news right? Well, yes except for one little thing. I noticed my headlight and the lights on my instrument cluster gauges were not on. Im pretty sure I popped a fuse but before I tear in there I was hoping to find a diagram for the fusebox on the first gens. I would like to know if I can safely replace the blown fuses with fuses that are a little larger...and I mean a LITTLE larger. Im not going to throw 20 amp fuses in there and defeat the whole purpose of having fuses in the first place. Im also not in a huge hurry because having the headlight NOT light up saves a ton of battery and makes these cold winter starts...but I will need to fix it before I take the bike back out in the spring. Another crazy idea I had that Im inviting comments on.... I know you legally MUST have a working headlight on a motorcycle, but has anyone considered putting a switch in...maybe out of the way...opposite the hazards switch, expressly for cold starts? I just keep thinking what an advantage it would be to have one when your bike battery is giving its all and its not quite enough....wouldnt it be great to shut off the headlight and have that extra power for starting? Feedback is welcome! -
Does anyone know if an 86 venture trailer hitch will bolt to an 84 venture? TOM
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Anyone help me identify the cross member which the left & right driver footboards bolt onto? Is it SKU: 4XY-21315-00-00 STAY, ENGINE? -
The two rubber hoses going from the carb to intakes are cracked, only on the right side. Seems to be causing a miss. Checked the plugs too = at 20,000 miles= they looked new. Whats the trick to removing the two inside bolt monts. These outflow hoses are rubber mounted on a metal base with two connecting bolts, all one piece. I removed the fins for bolt access and cannot get to the inside bolt. Learned the hard way not to remove the cooling hose in the center to get access. there is no room for the allen wrench and no room to turn it.
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The bolt that holds the heel-toe shifter on my '06 RSTD rattled off and has been lost. Thanks to V7Goose, I got it field fixed using the spare bolt on the left hand fuse box cover. However, I want to replace it with an official bolt. I called the dealership today, who could not tell me what sort of bolt I should buy. Is it chromed? How long is it? The PDF I have of the service manual shows that it has a hex head and integrated washer, but doesn't really give me any other information. Does someone have information on this bolt? A description and a torque value would be handy.
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