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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Tried to start my 86 VR after it had been sitting about a month. Had a little trouble getting it to fire right away, and ended up running down the battery (it might have been low to start with). Grabbed the jumper cables and hooked them up to the car. Got plenty of cranking power, but the bike still wouldn't fire up (might have flooded it by now). Then I just lost the starter completely. When I press the start button nothing happens except I hear a relay click, to cancel out the headlight I think. I have it in neutral, so I don't think it's related to the sidestand switch or the clutch lever switch. I tried rocking the bike a little in 3rd gear in case the brushes in the starter motor are a little worn and might move them a little. Still nothing. Any suggestions what might be wrong or what else I should be looking for? Thanks.
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Got on the RSV Thursday for a couple of errands. When I turned the ignition on to head home from the last stop, I hit the starter and nothing! The radio was playing, but the lights were not on. When I turned the switch back to the ACC position, for second, the speedometer "scanned" across and then was back off. Long story short, if I turn the switch completely to the right, nothing, except what is on in the ACC position. Now if I just barely turn the key back to the left, the lights come on, the bike starts and all is right with the world. If after it starts, I turn the key all the way to the right the engine quits. It is like the switch is turning past where there should be a stop. Anyone else experienced something like this? An I headed for a switch replacement?
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I have a 2008 Venture and up until now, everytime I turned the key on and moved the kill switch to the on position, I immediately heard a series of clicking noises which I presumed was the fuel relay. My battery had died and I recharged it and now it makes no clicking sound but it will start OK. Have I fried the relay or is that even what the noise was. I called the stealer and he said as long as it starts and runs it is nothing to worry about but I don't know. Please help.
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Last month I picked up a 92 Venture project bike in pieces, bad rear driveline and final drive. The bike had sat for at least 6 years, supposedly ran real well prior the the driveline/final drive failure . I now have it reassembled and am ready to get it running. The problem is that I do not have any spark to any of the four cylinders. I find a lot of information for the models prior to 1990 with the two pickup coils, but not very much about the single coil system. I checked the wiring to the pickup coil, took the crankcase cover off and inspected the internal wires to the coil, cleaned the connection. By the service manual, the coil ohms out within spec's. Can anyone tell me what the pn is for the single pu coil? Took apart and cleaned the right handlebar stop switch. I cleaned the contacts for the ignition coils and ohm'd them as well, they also tested out good. Have not yet looked at the side stand switch or the emergency stop switch. I also cleaned the fuel tank and lined it, cleaned the carbs, fuel pump and installed new fuel lines and filter. I suspect that my problem may be the TCI. Is there a diagram of the tci box for the 90-93 models with the pinouts and ohm values available? What is the best way to remove the TCI? I have the battery and air box removed so far. If it is the TCI, anyone have experiance with the ignitech TCI unit on a 90-93 Venture? Is this a better way to go than finding a used one? There do not appear to be a lot of used ones available for these years. Anything else I need to be looking at? Thanks
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Would someone explain to me how my engine stop switch on my right handle bar is supposed to work. I have an 89 Venture Royale and the switch says "run" and "off" I believe. The writing is a little faded. If it is in the "off" it will not start with the start switch but "off" does not "kill" or "stop" the engine when it is running. Is this the way it is supposed to work on the Venture? Usually the "engine stop" or "kill" switch does just that. I was wondering as there might be a problem with the wiring as the previous owner did a few modifications. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Sam
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OK folks, I got a sticky kick-stand switch that is aggervating the mess out of me.lol Tried WD-40, white spray grease and no luck. It doesn't come all the way out and make contact lately...was just once in a while but now it is every time. Anyone got a good fix for this or no where I can get one new or used? Thanks in advance, Roy -
Ok, put in the HID kit from that everyone is raving about. Well of course, Murphy's Law now steps in. I have low-beam but no high-beam, put the old bulb back in, both beams work. Called the Canadian company and they say not enough power to the ballast for the high-beam or could be a faulty low/high beam switch on the bike. Took the switch apart and of course it is a sealed plastic unit with three wires coming out. Now I slowly push the switch to high beam and the HID high beam comes on, but that is with the switch barely depressed and when fully enaged, no HID high beam. So anyone have a possible answer, otherwise I am going back to the standard bulb. -
I want to remove the kickstand, but i'm not sure how to bypass the switch . Can someone tell me how? Thanks Ron -
I have read a couple of posts about cleaning the contacts in the kill switch. Can someone explain how to get at them. I split the housing and see a white block under the red switch, does the red switch pop off the top of the housing and the block pull out to get at the contacts? Thanks.. -
I'll have a limited supply of Royal Star Venture Mic-Mutes kits @ MD. I'll also have Mic-Mutes kits for the GL1800 Gold Wing and for the J&M CB JMCB-2003-DU. I'm no longer able to accept credit cards at MD. I can though accept CCs thru a PayPal email invoice or also on my website. Cash is always best though. If you know that you'll want to install Mic-Mutes @ MD. let me know so that I may reserve one of the RSV Mic-Mutes kits for you. I can also bring GL1500 Gold Wing and Valkyrie Interstate Mic-Mutes kits by request, but I don't intend to have those kits if no one asks in advance. Price is: $139.95 for GL1800, GL1500, RSV or Valkrie Interstate. $154.95 for GL1800+CB PTT switch, GL1500+CB PTT switch, Valk+CB PTT switch $119.95 for the JMCB-2003-DU I'm not charging for installation, nor am I performing installations. I'll be glad to help and direct you to do it. Like last year I'm sure that there will also be plenty of others willing to lend a hand as well. Hope to see you there! Bill Morphy www.Mic-Mutes.com
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Ok, I put some 1.5 inch risers on my bike this morning and it was a PITA to do. All the hoses and cables seem to be OK but I found that when I turn to near full lock on the bars, the handlebar clamps hit the center console next to the ignition switch. Does anyone have a remedy for this?? It has already marked the chrome in that area!! Pics below.
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I've not been satisfied with the Ajure passing lamp lens and I would like to go to a halogen housing. So I'm still wondering if the Vstar lamps will fit on the Venture light bar? The catalog says they are not for the Venture and I just wonder why they won't work. I know the switch is on the housing so it would be tough to reach if that was the only switch. Any other reasons? Dennis -
Yeah, so it's not a Venture... But I can't figure it out. I put together a go cart for my kids, using a single seater frame, and a Honda 5.5hp engine I got from Craigslist. I got everything together and buttoned up and apparently it's a Naskart. You can only turn left!!! If you make a right turn, the engine just shuts off! You can turn left all day long (which the kids are getting bored with) but turning right means I have to walk across an acre of land to pull start it again. Here's what I've checked, feel free to make suggestions... Oil level is good. (Thought there might be an oil-level kill switch that was tripping when oil shifted to the left side) Gas tank is full. Cleaned the jet on the carb, and put new gaskets on it. (Yes, I'm running SeaFoam) Checked kill switch. (Thought maybe the wires could be grounding out on turns) I'm running out of ideas (and tired of walking across the field.) I'm open to suggestions!
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OK, I am really confused on this. My new bike has the extra lights which are set in chrome all over the back of the rig and a simple switch to turn them on and off, which works fine. I was replacing it with a rocker switch that has an LED (so it now needs it's own ground). When I flip the switch the on/off functionality of the switch works fine but the LED only goes on for a brief moment before the switch engages (basically just flashes on then back off). Any thoughts on why this LED wouldn't work. For the supply I am using a blue wire that comes from the fuse box. The load is the one I am assuming goes to the lights. I ran a ground wire right to the negative terminal of the batter, do I need a different ground point? I also went and got another identical switch in case there was something wrong with the rocker I bought first. Thanks!
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Well, my key was pretty hot today when I turned off my bike. Although my thermometer did say it was 97 out (in the shade), and I was riding for ~4-5 hours or so... In the sun. So, while I don't think I am having premature switch issues, I just figured it was time that I come up with a quick and easy bypass. I know that there is a write up for doing this and cutting the wires on the bike to wire up the bypass for when it fails (and I will probably do this if absolutely necessary), but what I would like to do is get a plug and play setup going, so all I have to do is unplug my faulty ignition switch and plug in my bypass (using the existing wiring). I have also considered dismantling my current ignition switch for inspection and cleaning - as an attempt at a preventative measure. Question: Does anyone have an old ignition switch (failed or not, I don't care) that you wouldn't mind sending me? Either the whole switch or snip the wires as close to the switch as possible (so I have a decent length going to the plug-in connectors left over). I'll pay shipping (obviously). Thanks in advance!! : ) - Rick -
I have an 88 venture. The headlight is not working. From what I can tell the headlight power wire comes from the fuse to the starter switch on the right handle grip. From there it goes to the headlight. I am getting power from the fuse to the switch but nothing out. Is the starter switch a momentary switch that shuts the power off to the headlight when starting? Is there a way that I can clean the switch or something I can do with it. I took it apart and it looked alright to me. If not would it hurt anything to simply by pass the switch. I hate to get into doing thing like that but I have spent way to much on this bike and i am not spending anymore. I will sell it first. Thanks for any help Curtis
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Noticed the other day my ignition switch was very hot at the end of a ride. When I pulled my key out the key was very hot to the touch. I don’t have passing lamps and have never had this problem. Any thoughts?
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This may have been posted here but I am trying to bid on one and I need to know if the ignition switch out of an 84 will fit and 88 venture. I also need to know if I can get the tumblers out of the new switch without the key. There is no key for the switch I am trying to buy and I want to put my old key back in so they are still keyed right.
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I mentioned I was having a problem with my cruise control, when at the meet and eat in talbot ville last saturday (24th). Great bunch. Sorry, I'm bad with names they will come later. They mentioned the clutch lever. Right on, the second switch was still ingaged. Thanks. Weather held, even got in a small ride. Thanks again Mark
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Does anyone know if it's possible to deactivate the crusie control "bump" switch? In other words, to keep the cruise control from automatically disengaging when hitting a large bump in the road. I realize this is a safety feature, but after installing a sidecar to my 2005 RSV, the extra movement from the hack, as well as the lovely roads here in NJ, cause my cruise control to disengage much more easily than when I was on 2 wheels. I'm hoping someone has an answer as I really miss being able to use cruise on the highway. Thanks in advance for any insight!!! Rob
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Would 47,000 on a '99 be too many miles to switch over to MC Synthetic oil? Whacha think??
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I've read a lot on just about everything here. Have received a ton of info and appreciated it all. Made a lot of upgrade decisions and changes from all the info here. All has been great. Put on some Baron Risers over the past couple of weeks along with some other upgrades which I'll write about later. My question is, I have no problem with my cable lengths and the risers but, the risers hit the black plastic switch cover prior to the stops. Does anyone else have this issue and if so, what if anything have you done to correct it. Thanks
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I have an 87 VR. The front brake light switch is broken (plunger stuck in), which means my cruise won't work either. The switch is one assembly with the harness that goes behind the headlight. Do any of you parts-bike-dudes have a spare assembly you'd sell me? Thanks, Jeremy -
Ok, I have a problem. I go out today to go for a ride. Turn the ignition on, press the starter button, and nothing happens. The starter won't even click. When I rode last week, it was fine. I ended up working 70 hours this week and today was the first time i've been able to take it out. So, can someone tell me how to determine what the problem is. If it's the starter button itself or something between there and the starter. I thought the battery so I charged it up and still nothing. Thanks guys for the help.
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What's normal for Hwy riding at about 120 to 130 kph before using reserve? I've been getting about 220...then have to switch to reserve.
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