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boominup

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Everything posted by boominup

  1. boominup
    YEEESH! That's awfull ugly in there with the fairing off. Way too much "Stuff" to transplant somewhere else on the bike. Don't think it would work. It's fairly easy to take the front of the lowers off. I can only recommend that you see for yourself. Brian
  2. boominup
    This is very important! Before removing plugs, take compressed air and blow out the dirt and road grime that collects inside the counterbore on top of the heads. As soon as you remove the plug, that crap could end up inside your cylinder and really make a mess down the road. Just my 2 cents! Brian
  3. boominup
    After looking over the placement, (I don't have the tach yet) it looks like there would be a possible interference with the cassette door. No sweat cause I've got the AUX line jumped inside the fairing. Hope it works, or else I'll have to sell it to someone with an RSTD. I'll post as soon as I find out. Judging by ALL the responses I've rec'd so far it looks like this is a very popular add-on. LOL!! Brian
  4. boominup
    Has anyone installed this setup on their RSV? I got this one new on eBay for a great deal. Just wondering if I can coax enough slack from the cables to make them work. It has 4" rise and 1.5" setback. It says it will fit all Royals. THANX for any input and Happy 2009 to everyone. Brian http://www.pro-one.com/v/vspfiles/photos/803290-1.jpg
  5. boominup
    I took mine out with a 1/2 in masonary bit with an extension so I could reach it all . All I used was a 1/2 in drill, and a little bit of patience and I got it all out. It is a brick, similar to what Ford used in their cats years ago and can be drilled out. I've had no issues with it since and they really sound great. Just make sure you shake all the small chunks out cause you'll hear strange rattles inside your pipe. Also, I used a long steel rod with a hammer to break the cat into small peices after drilling it out. The closer together you make your holes, the easier time you'll have in breaking out the brick. My 2 cents! Brian
  6. boominup
    I'm considering trying this: http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome.htm I've seen the results and I'm impressed! Sound like a fairly easy application. Brian
  7. boominup
    Last week after returning from a "leaf peeping" run, I realized that my front left turn signal wasn't working. Changed the bulb, but still no luck. I traced it to the feed wire to that bulb had worked itself loose. It plugs under the front fairing, in the center and behind the driving light bracket (if you have them). It's a bear to get to but I was able to replug it with the help of a long pair of needlenose pliers. I also had to take the front fairing off so I could release that wiring harness and gain an inch or so of slack. They have worked fine since. It probably happened if you removed the driving light bracket and let it hang for one reason or another. They sure didn't make that hookup an easy one. Brian
  8. boominup
    Nonexistant whine! Do I still have to vote? Brian
  9. boominup
    If I could only find a way of keeping the plastic from flying off!! Nice try!!
  10. boominup
    Back in the spring, after I pulled my 03 out of hibernation, I started her up and I couldn't believe the racket coming out of that engine. It was not running as smooth as when I put it away for the winter so I changed the oil again, with no better results for noise. I synched the carbs and Voila! No more noise. This happened once more this summer and the racket goes away with a good carb synch job. It seems that with the carbs being out of balance, the engine picks up backlash from the valvetrain, tranny gears or the clutch somewhere and really resonates through the bottom end. In the future, I'll keep that as a sign for "Time To Synchronize"! Brian
  11. boominup
    Hi again Ross, just for curiosity's sake, I set mine up on my bike jack, wedged the frame on one side so it stands perfectly at 90 deg. to the floor with a large framer's square and I found mine to be within 1/4" of being perfectly parallel front to back. I am sure that manufacturing tolerances would be impossible to hold to perfection from one frame to another so I would consider mine to be well within tolerance since it drives so well. I would agree with you that a minor accident would have most probably caused the pulling problem Even hitting a curb head on could bend both struts back a bit and still be within tolerance in the tracking dept. but the rake geometry of the steering would be severly affected. This damage would be impossible to see with the naked eye without tearing the forks apart and checking for being straight. Just something else to consider. Brian
  12. boominup
    Don't forget, your front tire is not as wide as the rear, the edges of the straight edges should not touch from front to back. Does that sound logical? To be parallel, the measurement from front to back should be 1/2 the difference of the width of the front and back tire. I:E, if the rear tire is 4" wide and the front tire is 3 1/2" wide, the difference should be 1/4" on each side. Wouldn't that make sense? Still scratching my head on this one!! Brian
  13. boominup
    I drilled out a cat muffler with a 5/8" masonary bit. I poked a few holes next to each other and then broke the rest on the "brick" with a hammer and a long chisel. Took me about 15 mins. Then I poked the baffles out with a 1 1/8" hole saw. SWEEEET! Brian
  14. boominup
    I have the Utopia backrest on mine and the support bar bolts to the frame under the seat. You do not have to alter or cut into your seat in any way as it just fits up through in between the driver and passenger seats. This purchase was one of the best moves I've made for this bike. Brian
  15. boominup
    You won't be sorry. Brian
  16. boominup
    Negatory on any valve float. I sure wouldn't want to spin it any higher than that but I've bumped the limiter a couple of times and and it just keeps pulling. It flattened out with the stock box but it sure doesn't now. Like I said, I'm not living up there but it's there if I need it. My 1st gen would rev to over 8500 rpms and it never had any ill effects from it. I've had the box installed for 10 mos. and I've only hit the RL 2 or 3 times that I can remember. This is a touring bike, not a modified street racer. Brian
  17. boominup
    Hi Freebird, At the moment, I'm at curve 4 with the revs set at 8000. I've noticed a pretty good difference just below midrange on up to the RL. I held it in 3rd gear one good day and hung on till I saw 103 mph on the speedo without bumping the RL!! I'm not up there in that territory very often but it's nice to know what you've got when you need it. I love that 3rd gear now! Some folks warned me about pinging on curve 4 but I really have to lug it hard from standstill to make it ping riding 2 up. I've corrected that by blending the 87 octane with 89 midrange octane every other tankfull. No pinging. If I notice any future pinging, I'll just back her down to curve 3. BTW, fuel mileage has dropped a bit but the grin factor has doubled. I guess the two go hand in hand. Brian:)
  18. boominup
    Doesn't Diamond R make a set of convertible footrests? Brian
  19. boominup
    By now, that's the only thing holding the trunk on the back of the bike! Brian
  20. boominup
    Treeman, tell your brother to bring it on! You'll have him smoked in 3rd gear! My buddy won't mess with me anymore! Brian
  21. boominup
    They most certainly will fit with the right brackets and clamps. I am using the same ones but off an 04 RK. I've drilled out the baffle ends and I really love the sound. They are actually enjoyable on the long haul. Not too loud but a deep mellow sound. Brian
  22. boominup
    AMEN, debelt!!! My service dept. NEVER heard of the dry drive fingers problem!! Brian
  23. boominup
    The problem is....it's not a problem with the rear end gears, bearings, or driveshaft. The fingers in the rear hub are DRY!!! I fixed mine when I replaced the rear tire last week. She was makin all kinds of clicking noises and grinding whenever I just moved the bike. A very easy and worthwhile step to take every time the rear wheel comes off. The only extra tool needed is a set of snapring pliers. Go to the Venturers site and look at the tech section for 2nd Gen RSVs and you'll see what I mean. BTW, my Honda GW would make the same Godawful noises when service to the rear hub was needed! Brian
  24. boominup
    I got my 36" extension at a local supply place called "Cables and Connections". It was for an old style keyboard and I ran it under the rear seat, up the stem for my backrest and it stays in the pouch when not in use. Doesn't catch any weather that way. Momma really likes it there. Brian
  25. boominup
    "I added a 2ft extension to the cord and just ran it up the driver backrest bracket. Makes it a lot easier for the co-pilot." I just installed the same thing as KeithR and Momma really loves me now. It was a pain for her to hook-up before we left on a ride. It takes longer to find the socket wrench and to remove to seat than it does to install the extension up the backrest and into the pouch. To whoever thought of this first, THANX!! Brian
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