V7Goose

Well, the easiest way is to just click on your ID in the original post you made in this thread, then select "find all posts by . . .". You can also do this from the control panel or an advanced search. And you may even find what you are looking for by simply clicking on the "User CP" link on the left side of the window. Goose

Just for clarification - he is asking for the plastic box that mounts to the bracket just in front of the regulator near the lower left corner of the radiator. This is the air intake for the front AIS valve. Goose

Yes, the "unit" to which I referred is the regulator/rectifier. AFAIK, the ground for that unit is just the back of it where it is bolted to the frame. Possible it is heavily corroded, or even that the bolts came out, causing the ground to be bad. BTW, the charging system does not put out a steady 14V at all times, but that is a minor point. More significant to your understanding of how the charging system works, it senses the amount of current needed by the bike, including the battery, and lets that much pass into the system. If the battery is shorted so the current passes through without charging it, then the regulator just sees it as a battery that needs charging and continually passes all the available current on. That situation often results in burned wires and pins for the two large output wires on the reg/rec plug. On the other hand, if the battery is open so it takes no charge at all, then the regulator just thinks it is a fully charged battery and shunts all the excess current to ground. Finally, the reg/rec is a sealed unit, and the is little you can do to test it. With a fully charged battery (important), you simply check the voltage at the battery terminals around 5,000 RPM. If the voltage is over 14V (or reads AC instead of DC),the unit is bad. If the voltage is under 14V, then the problem could be the stator, the reg/rec, or the wiring. Goose

My apologies to all - I just spoke to tsigwing, and he clearly described the spring base plate that he DID put back in, so I was clearly wrong on that assumption. In addition, he confirmed for me that the left-over disk was completely smooth on both sides, so it could not be the spring base plate. Then he re-read the PCW instruction sheet which does reference a base plate behind the wave washer in the back of the stack that should be removed along with the wave washer and the half-plate. So it does seem that all is good with his installation. Sorry for the confusion. Goose

And your question is . . .? I already told you where the other part goes. Goose

Something wrong with the parts you have left over. There should be a wave washer that fits inside that half plate (one side is stamped "this side out", but no other "thin metal disk." If that other one is flat on one side, but has a ridge around the outside, then you left out the ring that the outside edge of the spring rides on. It should be placed on the pressure plate before the spring is installed. Goose

29mm is another common shim size for older engines, and as you noted, it is not the same as 25mm. Now wasn't that easy? Goose

The battery did NOT cause an increase in voltage that would have made lights brighter or burned them out. Not physically possible - you cannot get more voltage out of something than exists in it. I can't even begin to imagine how you could have seen the dash lights get brighter in mid day, but never having experienced this problem myself, my lack of imagination is not surprising. 1 second description of our charging system: A motorcycle's stator puts out max voltage (for whatever RPM it is turning) all the time, and the Reg/Rec converts that to 12V DC and shunts everything that is not needed to ground. Your problem: Either the unit is toast (probably), or the ground is bad (unlikely). If all that riding didn't smoke other stuff, like your ignitor, you are extraordinarily lucky, and beyond all probability, since your bike kept running, it seems the ignitor must still be good. Goose

The basic shim kits probably won't be good enough for the first job or two - I'd pretty much bet it will need more than two of one size or another. But like I said in the original post, there is no way of knowing for sure. A lot of it will depend on what sizes get taken out of the engine. The shims can be bought individually for about $5 each at most bike shops, and many of the service departments will just swap shims with you for free. The drag with either of those options is that you have to either keep making trips down to the shop every time you find a valve that needs a different shim, or you have to do a LOT of extra work to first pull all the shims that need to be changed, decide what size new shim you probably need for each of those valves, then go get the shims and start all over again putting them in and re-checking the clearance. All of the above is why I keep suggesting you try to find someone who already has a shim kit and is willing to loan it out. It really does not make sense to build your own unless you intend to help a lot of other members do this job. But if you do start a new kit, the first thing to do would be to trade in all the shims below 250 and above 280 for more shims between 260 and 275 - that would give you a much better chance of having what you needed. And yes, you do pull the plugs - that is mentioned in #4 of "The Job" in the first post. At 28,000 miles, the valve check is due, but I suspect you won't need to change many shims that early. My guess is that a few of the valves will be fairly close to minimum tolerance, but still OK; however, by the time the second valve service is due around 50,000 or 60,000 miles those particular valves will have moved to less than minimum, and you will need to change four of five of the shims by then. Unfortunately, you have to do all that work just to check the clearance and know for sure if any changes are needed. Goose

Well, no reason you shouldn't ruin your own bike if that's what you want, but why would you suggest that others do it too? Sounds like you already got one pile-o-junk from those practices, and you are about to make another. Good luck, Goose

I have started a thread in the 2nd Gen Tech Library to cross reference non-Yamaha parts that can be used to save money over the expensive factory items. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=362525#post362525]Parts Alternatives - VentureRider.Org[/ame] I only have a couple of items so far, but I will add more when I find them. If you know of any parts that should be in theis list, please send me a message or post that info here. Thanx! Goose

Just starting this thread - I'll add more as I find it . . . If you are aware of any other alternatives to expensive factory parts, especially if you have used one yourself and had satisfactory results, please message one of the moderators to have the information added here. Where a particular part has a related Tech Library article, that link is the last one. Clutch - More of an upgrade than just a replacement, PCW Racing sells a stronger spring and an upgrade kit at very reasonable prices. Their link is below, but at last check they didn't have on-line ordering. Another option (and more expensive) is the Barnett pressure plate. Most slipping clutches on the 2nd Gens can be completely fixed with just the stronger springs - no need to replace the friction or steel plates. http://www.pcwracing.net/ - call them at 518-346-7203 and tell them you want the spring upgrade kit for a Royal Star Venture http://www.barnettclutches.com/ Clutch Upgrade - VentureRider.Org Coils - really should be a number of alternatives here, but I do not have any details. Fuel Pump - Most external low pressure/low volume fuel pumps should work - stock pump has a 3 PSI rating and costs over $200. Look for a solid state pump sold for old VWs or jeeps. Here are a couple of links for replacement pumps under $50: Autozone 4-7 PSI NOTE: since this pump is double the pressure of the stock pump, I would not use it unless I could not find any other. Autozone 2-3 1/2 PSI JCW 1 1/2-4 PSI JCW 1 1/2-3 1/2 PSI http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/42S/10002/-1 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php Parts 40105 and 40171 https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_6101051_0067330545&An=0 General note on available pumps - most (probably all) of these pumps are Facet brand fuel pumps, and the correct Facet part number is 42S (also goes by 40105). Facet has recently replaced their old cube pumps with new Posi-Flo pumps, and the correct part number for the Posi-Flo is 04S (also goes by 60104). Either part number may be preceded by "PRO" or "FEP". Also note that the 40171 pump is the ONLY one that has both a check valve and positive shutoff, so it would be the best choice for use on a motorcycle that does not have an automatic fuel shutoff when the engine is off (such as ours). All of the other pumps allow fuel to flow even when the power is off, so a leaking float valve could lead to engine damage if the petcock is left on. Fuel filter - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MGD0/33011.oap?pt=N1219&ppt=C0262 - You need one with at least a 5/16" connection. Any universal filter will work if you just want to relocate it, but this one will actually fit perfectly in place of the original (and despite what you may have heard, it is NOT that difficult to change! Oil filter - There are lots of filters available; instead of trying to list them all, here is a link to a cross reference (we use Type 5 - the filters are at the bottom), along with several other links for information on filter quality: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml Paint - Not many options here other than ColorRite (www.colorrite.com), or have it matched by a professional paint shop. I strongly recommend the paint shop and that you avoid ColorRite (see my product report here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36321&highlight=paint) Rear Shock - The only alternative is from Works Performance - costs more than stock, but it is rebuildable, where the stock one is just trash when it goes out. One source for the Works Performance shock is: www.buckeyeperformance.com Thermostat - Should be an automotive cross reference, but we do not have one confirmed yet. Front Turn Signal bulbs - Starting in 2005 Yamahaha went to weird 3-prong bulbs - but no need to waste your money on them. Just buy a standard 1157 and remove the lower pin! The remaining high pin is indexed correctly to install the bulb with the correct filament connections (low for running light, bright for turn), and it will stay in place forever. The pin is often easily removed by simply prying on it with a pcket knife, or use a file, or simply rub it on the cement curb. Valve shims - Any 25mm shims should work. Here is a link to a Sudco shim kit that lists lots of different bikes that use the same shims: http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html Valve Adjustment - VentureRider.Org Valve shim tool - 35-3462 .... $38 from http://www.justatv.com/pages/valve_shim_tools/valve_shim_tools.htm Wheel Bearings - Check the existing bearing - it will probably have a standard number on it that any bearing shop can cross. Be sure to buy only name brand bearings, such as SKF, Timken, Federal Mogul or NTN and get sealed bearings if that is what came out. You can save a couple of more bucks by getting bulk, un-boxed cheap Chinese bearings, but you won't like how fast they die! Front - 6004 (unverified), 2 each Rear -

Just an FYI - I moved the original post and a few selected responses to the Tech Library, with some minor revisions here and there. May you all have many happy hours adjusting valves! Goose

Looked like an old POS to me.

I don't think you are going to get the final word on this, certainly not from me, but I'll give you some thoughts. Internal combustion engines are very particular in how they breath, and there are MANY things that affect it, including the size, shape and length of the intake tract, the size, shape and length of the exhaust, the cam lift and valve overlap, the shape of the intake port, placement and size of the valves, the shape of the combustion chamber, and probably several other things I have not mentioned. To get the best charge packed in the combustion chamber, the engine relies on the speed of the air rushing through the intake tract (not just the volume), a period of time when BOTH intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time to create a full flow, and some back pressure in the exhaust to control this flow-through until the exhaust valve closes. All of that stuff is obviously interrelated, so once you begin messing with any part of it, it is hard to know what the results are going to be. Factory designs spend a lot of time getting it all right for normal driveability and economy, and it doesn't often pay to start messing with it. In fact, the average shade tree mechanic that thinks somehow he can do better is sadly mistaken. Now for just the pipes - the big question is how much different the air flow is compared to stock and if the intake tract can provide more air to blow through. Changing just the pipe to a more open design will probably do nothing but drop your fuel mileage, since more unburned gas will blow through during the valve overlap. That can be controlled a bit with jet changes, but probably at the expense of power. If you want more power out of the bike, you must get more air and fuel into the engine - that usually means changing the intake tract. Even if the existing intake can handle the needed increase in air that an open pipe can use, larger jets MUST hurt fuel mileage. IMHO, the RSV has such a convoluted and nasty intake design, nothing you could do short of putting filters right on top of the carbs would improve it, and even that might not produce good results, since you would not have a tuned port to affect the air speed. Do a little reading on the theory behind Yamaha's YICS system to lean more. Bottom line is that if you change pipes to something with similar flow, all will be fine, but if you go to a very open pipe, something MUST suffer. The good news is that our engine is so de-tuned to start, it tolerates these changes pretty well. I am sure I have made a number of misstatements in all of that, so any carb and engine experts should feel free to correct any of it they like - won't hurt me none. But this is a complicated subject, and any short post is unlikely to treat it with complete accuracy. Goose

Sounds like your AIS is still connected, that is a good thing - both for our air and as an indicator of problems with your ignition or fuel mixture. The idle spec on this engine is 1,000 RPM. I'd prefer it a little lower, but the oil pressure at idle is so danged low, I think it is best to keep it at the spec. Do the floats. I have a detailed write-up in the tech library on it - almost impossible to screw anything up. Yes, you do have to pull the carbs - not really hard, but there is a lot of stuff to work through. Goose

I know nothing about that machine, so I have no idea how much work it is. It all depends on how much stuff must be taken off to get to the valves, and what kind of valve adjustment it uses. If it uses "shim under bucket", it would probably cost you twice what "shim over bucket" would, since you have to remove the cam on the under bucket type. I suggest you simply call at least three shops and ask for a quote (do not expect the price to be the same at every shop). Goose

It is wonderful to hear that all seems well with your bike. Not sure I can explain it all, other than just setting things correctly should make things work the best. The strangest thing could be your choke - you had to use it on all cold starts before, and now you don't - that is good, but normally I would expect lowering the float level to make the choke needed more, not less! But lowering the floats would absolutely reduce the gas smell. Oh well, let's not sweat it - just enjoy! Hope you get to ride soon, Goose PS: it's probably the magic goose spit I put in your tank after I got tired of seeing your bike was better than mine in just about everything we checked!!!

Well, there is lots of stuff to talk about here, so I'll just start a brain dump in no particular order - hope it makes some sense. The mixture screws are primarily just for idle and partial throttle mixture, so adjusting them probably won't make a big difference in MPG. IMHO, the Colortune is just next to worthless. You can turn the screw seemingly forever between the color shifts from too lean to too rich, so leaving it somewhere in between is still a crap shoot. I have an exhaust gas analyzer, and I know for a fact that 1/4 turn makes a big difference in the CO%, so that really emphasizes how worthless the Colortune is. I have found that tuning by ear (a tach is even better) can get this engine very close to what I do with the exhaust gas analyzer. But you need to be sure everything else is good before you do that. Turn a screw out slowly to find the fastest idle, then back in by 1/4 turn. Do that for each carb, adjusting the idle speed screw as necessary to keep your engine around 1,000 RPM. When I have checked factory settings on the untouched mixture screws, they have been around 2 1/4 out (going from memory here - Tom can check his notes and let us know for sure). Best setting with the analyzer is usually somewhat over 3. If you can't come up with anything useful by the RPM method above, just set them all to 3 out and forget it until you can get it done with an exhaust gas analyzer. BEFORE you do anything else, properly set the float levels. This can have a very significant affect on MPG. Make certain your plugs are good. Messing with the floats or the mixture screws will have no effect on the carb sync, but it never hurts to check it, so do that. I think you are fooling yourself trying to measure gas mileage in just one or two tanks. I have talked about this in detail in other threads, but there are just too many variables in both the EXACT amount of gas you put in a small motorcycle tank, and the riding conditions. I already mentioned good plugs - ditto for the air filters. Can't go wrong keeping Seafoam or 44K in your gas throughout this process - won't hurt anything, and it will keep cleaning if there is anything to clean. Do the fingertip test on the header pipes right next to the clamps on a cold engine - be certain they are all heating up at the same speed. Don't know if your AIS is connected or not, but if it is, the lack of popping will show that your combustion is good. If you have any popping at all, it is an absolute indicator you still have something else to find and fix. Once you have all that done and have run a couple of tanks through to be certain it all seems to run good, consider reading the plugs at normal cruising speed, around 3,000 RPM (an indicated 70 in 5th if you don't have a tach). To do that, you need to get it to and hold 3,000 RPM in normal cruising gear for a few miles, then simultaneously kill the engine and pull in the clutch so the engine stops turning over instantly while the throttle is held in that position. Coast to the side of the road and pull the rear plugs (easy to get to, and you want to see that at least two of them look the same. You probably want to keep those plugs out for reference, so have a couple of old (or new) plugs with you to replace them. The plugs you take out should be very clean and tan to very light chocolate color. Guess that's about all for now - Goose

A picture of a shim will be of no value unless it is laying on a very accurate ruler. If it is a 25mm shim, it will fit. If it is not 25mm, it will not. Goose

98.72658% chance it is a bad battery. Take it to just about any auto parts store and have them load test it. Won't cost you a thing, and you will know for sure. Goose

Look at the shop manual - that is why I included the exact page numbers in the original post. Goose

It is over 400 degrees, IIRC - I've checked it that way before, but you really don't get decent readings to compare, and it will be impossible without a laser dot to allow precise aiming. I found the the temperatures vary by huge amounts just by moving the dot only 1/4 inch. The most reliable reading is directly off the header clamp, not on the pipe. Goose

Initially, your problem sounded like the design flaw I have documented in several other threads - here is one: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27095&highlight=radio+design That problem is irritating, but it is easily worked around once you recognize it. But if it will not come on at all, then something else is wrong - hopefully it is just the fuse. Goose

Tell me it ain't so! Ain't hardly worth a two-day ride if it's gonna be on the nasty crowded superslab. Goose