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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Although stripped drain bolt holes on many different engines are not all that rare, the RSV pan seems pretty stout. I helped a guy work on his just last week where the drain plug was soooo tight he couldn't even loosen it with a normal 3/8" drive ratchet. I did manage to get it loose, but from the amount of force I needed, it felt more like an axle nut than a drain plug! And his threads were fine. For a drain plug on this engine to strip out, even with a grossly defective torque wrench (and that is doubtful), I suspect the plug had been cross threaded at one point or another. Sory to hear about that problem, but I doubt it was the tool that did it. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Well, you are certainly free to hold onto whatever misguided opinions you desire, but in my book, 99% of your advice in this post is just dead wrong. I don't necessarily use a torque wrench on every bolt or plug, but I would NEVER advise someone not to do it. The fact is, proper torque settings, using published factory values and an accurate torque wrench are an absolute best practice in ALL situations. Imagining that you can somehow do better with dreams and a "calibrated wrist" is just plain foolish (that is as nice as I can put it). In addition, published torque specs are ALWAYS for clean dry threads unless the document specifically states otherwise. Finally, bolts stretch when they are tightened, and the proper torque value is designed to ensure the particular bolt (whatever the specified grade might be) is properly tightened to stretch just the right amount in the designed threads (be they in aluminum, soft steel, or whatever) without weakening the bolt or damaging the threads. ANY bolt that has been over-tightened, either from a mis-calibrated wrist or any other mistake, should be replaced, as it has been damaged. Not all bolts have a published torque spec, but those that do have it for a REASON. Everyone is free to do whatever they want on their own machines, but I just hope that anyone who has not already closed their mind to a particular subject will do a little research to make an informed decision before just blindly accepting any of the stuff they read here, including my stuff! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    There is no reason to connect those LEDs to that relay. They draw such low current they will be fine just connected to the normal running light wires. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I just love to blow my air horns right next to any dolt I see on a cell phone while driving! That, and the unbelievably stupid and dangerous female dogs who are so asinine to put on makeup while driving. I always hope they'll stick something in their eye when I hit the horns. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    OK, just who the h_ll is Steve McNair, and why should I care? Does he ride a Venture? Does he know anything about the 2nd gen maintenance schedule? Can he sync the carbs? I think not. Doesn't sound worth my time. So on second thought, don't bother to answer the first question - it's not worth the virtual newsprint. Think I'll go check my valves or something . . . Goose
  6. V7Goose
    No need to record it - I have absolutely no doubt of what you are saying. The problem here is that you don't understand what is wrong with your bike. The popping you were trying to get rid of was something wrong with your bike, but instead of finding and fixing the problem, you simply said 'I don't want to hear it. Whatever is wrong is OK by me, just quit telling me something is wrong.' The fact is, a properly set up RSV with stock intake, exhaust and AIS WILL NOT POP ON DECEL (shouting intentional). Even changing the mufflers will not cause a problem unless you introduce an exhaust leak. So now we come full circle, and I must ask again, WHY would you prefer to just hide your problem instead of fixing it? Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Well, time to put some miles on that thing. Ride it on down here,and I'll be happy to work with ya on it! Goose
  8. V7Goose
    OK, some of you knew this had to be coming . . . ! But I'll try to keep it short and sweet. Removing or disabling the AIS provides ZERO benefits, as in NOTHING. It solves NO problems, and it provides NO improvement in performance. In fact, as it comes from the factory, it actually works as an unintended early warning of problems with complete fuel ignition, possibly caused by bad plugs, carb setup/sync, or vacuum leaks. In addition, it DOES reduce pollution emissions. Given that you get NO value from removing it, and you DO loose the benefit of knowing you have something wrong with your bike by not having it there, why on earth would anyone want to remove or disable it? OK, that's all. Anyone that wants more information can find lots of older posts with more details of my opinions on this. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    As Randy already stated, that tech tip is not for your bike. Without actually hearing your engine, I can't swear if something is wrong or not, but your complaint is certainly not common for these engines (which have remained unchanged for 10 years). As a starting point, I'd try to make contact with another Royal Star rider in your area to compare the bikes, side-by-side. If your bike is making an obvious knocking or rattle that the other one does not, you have a starting point for another complaint with your dealer. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Couple of things - first, there should be no "oil" coming out of those front vent tubes - those are the carb overflow tubes, so the only thing that could come out of them is gas. Over time, gas vapors mixing with dirt could look a bit like oil, but any visible liquid is cause for concern. It is slightly possible that the bike was put together wrong, with the air plenum vents that should be routed down near the end of the kick stand incorrectly connected to the front hoses, but I doubt the stock hoses are long enough for that. If you are getting any liquid gas out of those vents, then your float levels are probably way too high (in my experience this is true for the carbs on EVERY RSV as they are set up from the factory). As for the cowling screws, the only one that can be over tightened is the one that goes in from the rear. The front two screws go through a rubber grommet with metal washers on each side and a spacer in the center (just like the saddlebag bolts). These cannot be over tightened to damage the plastic, since all the force is metal to metal. Even if you Magilla them suckers down, you can still move the cowling around on those grommets. The cracked cowling is always covered under warranty by any decent dealer as long as there are no signs that it has been hit by anything. But here is a "secret" about what causes the cracking and how to prevent it: All the mounting points for the three cowling screws are very soft metal brackets, and they are easily bent. Before mounting the cowling next time, just start the rear screw and hold the cowling in place to make sure the holes for both front screws are centered without having to push or bend the plastic. If they don't perfectly line up, just bend the appropriate bracket slightly to solve the problem. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    It is at the back of the service manual. It is a terrible schematic with lots of errors, but better than nothing! Besides the full schematic, each section of the electrical chapter shows a partial section of the schematic with the appropriate circuit being discussed highlighted - this helps focus on the appropriate sections and often makes the errors more evident. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Glad you found the problem and got it working. It still puzzles me how you could have had power to the fuel pump but not the coils if the problem was in that plug, but I guess I won't worry about it as long as it's running! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Well, here is your problem, if the kill switch IS providing 12V to the SCR and coils, but is NOT providing 12V to the two idiot lights, then the switch and plug are both obviously good. So the first think I would test is Check Engine light self-test, then the power at the coil. If nothing at the coil, start tracing the R/B wire from the plug. The schematic looks like there might be a bullet connector in this wire before the SCR somewhere - that would be the most likely source of the problem. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Here is another test for the Kill Switch I found by tracing the schematic: In the run position, the Kill Switch provides 12V from the ignition fuse (you did check that fuse, right?) to both the Oil level and Check Engine light. I have verified on my RSV that normal operation of the Check Engine light test is to come on for about 3 seconds when you first turn on the key, but if the Kill Switch is in kill position, the Check Engine light does not come on at all when you first turn on the key. Unfortunately, I now doubt that the Kill Switch is your problem, since you said you can hear the fuel pump. Besides providing 12V to those two dash lights, the Kill Switch also provides 12V to the Starting Circuit Cutout Relay (SCR) and all four coils. If the the SCR is drawn correctly on the schematic (BIG "if", since I already know there is at least one mistake with it), the fuel pump gets its power from the Kill Switch through the other half of the SCR. That would be the same line that provides 12V through an R/B wire to each coil, so that should be easy to check on the coil just behind the radiator cap. The kill switch connects through a 6-pin 2-row plug. Probably under the tank, but could be in the fairing; you will have to trace the wires to find it. The plug only uses 5 of the six pins, with the open pin on one corner of the side that does not have the plug lock. The kill switch uses the Red/White and Red/Black wires - the R/B wire is the center pin right under the plug lock, and the R/W wire is right next to it, diagonally opposite the open pin. On the bike side of that plug, the R/W wire should have 12V with the key on (from the ignition fuse). With the kill switch in Run position, you should have a short between the R/B and R/W wires at that plug. That should give you enough info to isolate the problem. If you still can't figure it out, post the results of test on all the items above and I'll try to take if further. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    This is very interesting - I don't remember making that statement or why, but it sure sounds significant since normally both those lights come on. I guess I'll have to go back to the schematic in the morning to try and refresh my mind on what I saw before. Good catch! I just went and checked my own bike again, and that symptom is consistent - with the kill switch in kill mode, only the temp light comes on, but if it is in gear on the side stand, both lights come on (even tho it is still "dead"). I think I'd focus on checking the kill switch and wires, just like you are thinking. The flashing fuel gauge is a self diagnostic - the number of flashes is the code. The specific code is documented in the service manual. I'll look at the schematic tomorrow and tell you what is going on with the kill switch. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    What happens when you plug her helmet into the rider's plug and your helmet into the rear jack? If the problem follows the helmet, it is bad; if the mic is still dead in the rear, I'd look for a bad pin or wire in the passenger's cable. One last test would be to test the CB with another radio. I can't imagine the mic would be bad for intercom and still work for the CB, but I'd probably still test it from the rear jack with the rear PTT button just to verify. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    BOTH the engine coolant temp light AND the oil level light should ALWAYS come on when you hit the starter (with key on, of course) - that is the only way to check and verify they work since these two lights do not come on when the key is turned on. You did not tell us if you tried to start the bike in gear with the clutch in, in neutral, or on the side stand. These three things are critical to making an educated guess on the cause of your problem. In addition, does the neutral light still work correctly? One item that could cause the symptoms you describe is a bad side stand switch - the 2nd gens will not run or crank under any circumstances if they are in gear and the side stand is down. This thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34165&highlight=starting+circuit+relay should have more than enough detail describing the total working of the interaction between the neutral switch, side stand switch, clutch switch, and the starting circuit cutoff relay (maybe too much). Starting with post #9, I did a detailed analysis, and there is more in later posts. May take some time to read it all and absorb the details, but I am sure you can find the cause of your problem in there somewhere. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Lots of information in this thread for you: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33451&highlight=power Goose
  19. V7Goose

    Fuses

    V7Goose replied to Thistledown's topic in Watering Hole

    See the discussion in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33451&highlight=power Goose
  20. V7Goose
    That W650 is a fantastic machine - I put about 24,000 miles on one before I bought my RSV. Motorcycle Consumer News did a side-by-side comparison of one with a new Triumph "fake" Bonneville and an original late 60s Bonnie; their conclusion was the W650 had all the style and character of the original and was a much better bike all the way around. In fact, they were very specific that it was a better Bonneville than Triumph's own new Bonneville! ALL the current Triumph twins are huge disappointments to me and many others who love the old Triumphs because of their stupid insistence on not using a 360 degree crank for the new engines. The W650 has this very important engine design, just like the original Bonnies. Goose
  21. V7Goose

    Warranty

    V7Goose replied to tsigwing's topic in Watering Hole

    Brad, I completely agree with you. In fact, I have no problem anytime someone decides they do not want to have their bike repaired, for ANY reason. It's their bike and their decision. I suppose not trusting the dealer or not thinking it is worth the effort are just as valid as any other reason. But I DO have a problem with misinformation. I really think it is wrong for someone to tell other members that these bikes do not have a warranty! And claiming Yamaha won't repair something like a wheel bearing is exactly the same thing as claiming the bike does not have a warranty. At least in the US the warranty terms are very clear, as are the legal remedies should the manufacturer or any of their representatives refuse to honor the printed terms of that warranty. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    3 cyl diesel, 6 wheels, fully enclosed fairing with rollbar, and spiffy new 8-track stereo. Trust me, I go the inside track on these things!
  23. V7Goose

    Warranty

    V7Goose replied to tsigwing's topic in Watering Hole

    It is a real shame that you got cheated like that, but if you accepted it, well, I guess you found it OK. Each of us has to make our own decisions. All I can add is that maybe anyone with a problem should ask themselves (and a lawyer) just what they expect from a five-year unlimited mileage warranty? If someone is gonna just bend over and take it for bad wheel bearings, then I guess they won't expect anything to be repaired? I only hope that other readers don't just decide to lay down and be cheated because a few other owners found that acceptable from a dishonest dealer. For those that actually care about their rights, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act in the US protects you, and it ensures that it will NOT cost you anything to force the manufacturer to honor the warranty. I have NEVER had to hire a lawyer to sue for my rights, but I would not hesitate if it was needed. Maybe I don't need the lawyers because I KNOW what my rights are, and I do not allow others to violate them? I wish all of you the best in protecting your own rights. Goose
  24. V7Goose

    Warranty

    V7Goose replied to tsigwing's topic in Watering Hole

    Oil seals are absolutely covered under warranty! EVERYTHING is covered under warranty unless the owner's manual specifically identifies it as a normal wear item. Force the dealer to pull the warranty and show you where it has any exclusions. The Magnason Moss Warranty act specifically prohibits a manufacturer from playing those games and provides for them to pay your legal fees if you need to force them to honor the printed warranty. Claiming oil seals are not covered due to wear is about the same as trying to claim piston rings are not covered due to wear! You got a copy of the warranty with your bike, but I have attached a PDF version. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Absolutely no problem here - I won't use a debit card for ANY reason - nothing but a rip off. Why in the would would I want anybody to have instant access to my bank account? For ANY reason? I can't imagine any possible answer except "I wouldn't." I use credit card for all purchases, then jut pay it off at every bill. Never costs me a cent, and nobody has access to my bank account. Goose
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