Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Ya know Joe, that is a heck of an idea! I have briefly thought about it before, but never seriously. I just focused on trying to do a good tech article for things like this so everyone could access the info for free. But now you got me thinking . . . a very dangerous thing . . . I've got the equipment to do it, just never considered going to the effort. But I can see the possibility of doing one for the carb floats, carb sync, exhaust gas analyzer, clutch, gauges, changing tires, rear drive pins, etc. Heck, I'm even getting ready to do my swing arm bearings, steering head bearings and valves, so maybe this is a good time to start? I'll have to see if my wife wants to try being a camera man! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    OK, since Taz insisted on broaching this subject, I guess I'll have to address it, at the huge risk of loosing all credibility here. First, let me stress that you read the details of my tech article on this job - I tried to be very specific on the one and ONLY correct way for ME to check and set the float levels on this bike. That requires the carbs to be out of the bike and opened up. OK, here is where my credibility is probably going to go down in flames . . . The shop manual clearly tells you how to check the fuel level in the float bowls while they are on the bike! Yamaha even has a special tool specifically for this. But it just doesn't work!!!!! (The method, that is, not the tool - I ain't got that tool). I cannot explain why I couldn't get it to work, and all logic, fluid dynamics, physics, geology, other sciences and mystic visions say it MUST work. But it don't. (poor english intended) You simply connect a tube to the bowl drain, open the drain screw, and measure the gas level in the tube held next to the diaphragm cover. What could be simpler, right? Liquid MUST seek it's own level in an open tube, right? Well, not on this bike. See, I told you I was gonna loose all credibility here! Now everyone KNOWS I'm a crackpot!! I farted around with that tube for an hour! Never once got a reliable fuel level. And yes, I'm pretty sure I made sure the drain screw was way open! At first, the gas only ran into the tube to the lowest level; it would absolutely not come back up to anywhere near the bottom of the float bowl, let alone diaphragm level, even with the key on so the fuel pump ran enough to ensure the bowl was full. So then I dropped the open end of the tube to let the gas completely fill it, but when I raised the open end again, the gas would not drain fully back down to the required level. I guess this makes sense, since the float valve had to be closed, but my point is I tried all sorts of different things to try and get a reliable and repeatable external fuel level. And I failed miserably. The only thing I didn't try was to start the bike and let it run, where maybe all the dynamics of the fuel pump running, vibration, and normal fuel flow through the carb would have produced the correct results? But by that time I was just pissed off at it. And now I don't care. Ya see, EVERY one of these bikes that I have checked has had the floats way off, and there is no way to adjust them without pulling the carbs anyway! So that is where I start. Go ahead, laugh at me and point - see if I care! (now where did I put that damn beer?) Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Randy, Tom, Randy, et al, You all are welcome here any time! Happy to help you do stuff like that, or just sit around and bench-race. But Tom's the only one who doesn't have to bring beer! Just know I am not trying to be anyone's personal mechanic, meaning I HELP you do the work, not do it for you. And you have to listen to all my meaningless prattle while we work! So "COME ON DOWN!" Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I do not know the location, but it must operate off a signal from the temp sensor, the same for the overheat light. The fan plug is behind the left lower fairing, so I'd try to trace the wires back from there or forward from the temp sensor. Since you say you have tested the fan, I am assuming you already know where those components are and have not had any luck following the wires, and I am sorry I cannot give you more specific guidance. I just wanted to let you know the fan trigger probably won't look anything like the carb heater thermo switch since it does not operate off the ambient temperature. But I would not be so sure your fan is NOT coming on. It is very quiet, and for the first year I owned my RSV I never noticed it. I can tell you for certain that it will come on quite often any time you are not moving, even in mild temperatures. I do a lot of carb syncs for other members, and I have never had one NOT come on before I got done. Well, that is not completely true . . . About a month ago I was doing a sync and started getting a little coolant from the overflow tube - we looked and the overheat light was on! Turned out something was jammed down in the fan, preventing it from turning, so it had been triggered, but without the air flow from the fan at idle, the coolant got hot enough to trigger the idiot light and boil over to fill the overflow tank and start dumping. As I said before, the fan is pretty quiet. I can hear it if I listen specifically for it while just sitting on the bike, but even when I am doing a sync I usually only notice the sudden blast of hot air and not the sound of the fan. Since I have a temp gauge on my bike, I can tell when the fan comes on just by the engine temp, but I sill never notice it unless I specifically look at it or put my hand down by the side of the engine to feel the air. The fan is triggered somewhere around 230 F, and neither of my RSVs have ever reached that temperature while normal riding. But they will do it fairly quickly at a long light or stop-and-go traffic. You can get a fairly accurate water temp reading with an IR thermometer by aiming it at the water jacket around the side of one of the rear spark plugs (one with a laser pointer to aid in accurate pinpoint aiming is needed). A safe test is to watch the engine temp that way while you let the bike idle. Or just let it idle until either the fan or overheat light comes on. If the fan is not working and it does get hot, you won't hurt anything if you shut it down when the light comes on. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    The work isn't that hard, but there are a lot of things to do. Pulling the carbs takes about an hour if you've done it before, but probably twice that the first time. I could do the whole job in about two hours if I didn't spend so much time talking and looking for my beer! The only shortcut is to leave the heater wires connected to the carbs and disconnect the plug instead. That will probably save you at least 1/2 hour of farting around! And there is probably no real need to check and adjust the throttle position sensor, but since you cannot really do this with the carbs on the bike, it really makes sense to take the time while they are out. But be aware the manual is wrong (as usual) on which wires to measure! Just going from memory here, but when it tells you to set the minimum resistance by measuring resistance between the yellow and black wires, they really mean yellow and blue. Just figuring that out will take some time! Nothing special about the throttle cables except to be careful to not pull on them too hard so you don't bind them up in the cruise control junction box. When you put them back on, adjust them so all the slack is out, but no tighter or the throttle will bind up and not fully return to idle. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I don't have the manual in front of me, but all the details are in the article in the tech library. For what it is worth, I remember that 22/64 is midpoint in the spec (I had to calculate this out at Don's since he did not have a caliper). Goose
  7. V7Goose
    As far as I know, the factory setup problem is with all 2nd gens. I cannot begin to suggest a viable explanation on why the factory is so ridiculously far off on the setup of new carbs; I just know they are. The other possibility is that the specs in the shop manual are wrong, but the evidence says that ain't so. The consequence of having the float levels set too low is starvation under hard acceleration, but I can assure you that I do not have that problem with my carbs set according the factory shop manual. I continue to be amazed at how little interest I seem to be able to generate in this needed maintenance. When I personally show people how far off the factory setting is (trust me, it is HUGE, and it will knock your socks off when you see it), I can't understand how they can shrug their shoulders and walk off. I guess the difference is just so huge they can't believe it and think I am some sort of a crackpot? I take great pains to show that what I do is based on the shop manual spec and not my imagination, but that does not seem to make much difference. It doesn't make any difference to me how someone else's bike is set up, but I'm still willing to help other members here check this out if they are interested. Here's a suggestion for you Dave - ride that thing up here and track your mileage carefully. After we make the adjustment, you can accompany me back to Port Arthur and we can finish my ride up the eastern Texas border. And you can stay here while you are in town before and after the loop. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Congratulations. 44.4 MPG at an actual 68 MPH (not accounting for any odometer correction) is quite a bit better than anything I have been able to personally verify on an RSV. Best hold onto that thing and be careful how you do maintenance. I would typically get about 39 MPG at that speed. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Tom, there ain't no need for you to be payin' someone to do this! Just ride her on up here and we'll git 'er done! Heck, you have offered me so much,you don't even need to bring the usual obligatory beer!! And if I'm too far, just let me know - I'll load up the tools and see you down there. But I ain't bringin' the exhaust gas analyzer - you want that service, it is only available in Colleyville. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    I always run quite a ways into reserve - usually at least 20 miles. I know I can get at least 40 miles on reserve under almost any conditions, and 60 if I slow down. But watch out for 80mph and a surprise headwind! Hit that yesterday and found 35 miles was max available on reserve! I have put 5.8 and 5.9 gallons in a couple of times, but usually I fill up and take between 5 and 5.5 gallons. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I've posted about this before, and there is even a tech article I wrote under Engine and Drivetrain on how to do it. But I continue to be amazed by how screwed up and WAY OFF the factory settings every RSV seems to be! So I just gotta keep proselytizing about it . . . At Don's maintenance day I just reset the floats on three more RSVs, and out of the 12 carbs, only ONE (one carb, not one bike) was even remotely close to the factory spec! And that was the first carb from ANY of the RSVs I have done that wasn't set unbelievably high. Too-high float levels cause rich mixtures and excessive fuel use at speed. Up to now I have only been able to report on the 10% improvement in fuel economy I got from my own bike by properly setting the fuel level. Others for whom I have done the work all said it seemed better, but they didn't go to the trouble of having detailed before and after comparisons. Well, now I have another. Four of us on RSVs rode together from Texas up to Don's in Ohio, about 1,250 miles. I paid attention to how much gas each of us took at each gas stop. Since we were all riding in the same conditions and the same speeds on the same roads, it was an ideal way to get some side-by-side comparisons. I generally took less gas at every stop, and Ponch took the most - every time. And the difference was quite significant. I never tried to calculate the MPG for each bike, but I know he was buying a lot more gas over and over again for 1,200 miles. So that is the "before" state. On Friday morning while I had nothing else to do, Ponch and I pulled his carbs and reset the float levels to the specs from the Yamaha shop manual. The only other change we did was to put in new plugs while we had things apart. To be completely open here, there was some evidence that Ponch's RF plug was not fireing as well as the others. After maintenance day, Ponch and I rode together on the way back to Texas. This was another fantastic oportunity for us to get a real life side-by-side comparison of two RSVs under identical conditions for many, many tanks of gas, and now with Ponch's bike having the floats properly set. Guess what? Ponch and I took virtually the exact same gas at every single gas stop, no matter if we had been doing 50 in the twisties or 80 on the superslab. That is a HUGE change from what he was getting on the ride up just two days before. Actually, I tell a little bit of a lie - while we weren't trying to compare exact fill levels by looking inside the tanks, Ponch generally took just a tad less than I did at most stops - probably just 0.1 gallons on a 5 gallon fill. So Ponch's bike went from being the worst of four in MPG (by a long shot), to actually being the best. We have no way of being certain how much credit the new plugs get for this, but I'm betting the float levels were the biggest piece. OK, I'll stop for now. But if you haven't had the float levels checked on your RSV, your really should think about it. Even if it is brand new. By all means, do not assume the factory got them even close to the right level!! Ride safe, Goose
  12. V7Goose
    None of the screws that secure the windshield directly have plastic washers, they are all metal washers. The screws that are inserted from the back to hold the fairing together all have plastic washers on them. That would be a total of eight screws with plastic washers. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Well Ed, if you are getting a true 41mpg at anything above 50mph, then that is excellent fuel mileage from an RSV, so there can't be too much wrong with her. These bikes have terrible air-flow dynamics, so the wind resistance grows exponentially as your speed goes above 60! By the time you spend a full tank at 80, you can absolutely count on dropping 10mpg from what you get staying closer to 60. Anyway, sounds like you are already pretty much on track for what you need to do. Like you said, the plugs are obvious, as is getting a proper carb sync. But don't forget to get rid of your vacuum leaks by replacing those rotted rubber plugs on the intake manifold nipples (and check the AIS vacuum hoses for cuts)! The idle problem is probably nothing more than nasty carbs. The Seafoam was a good start, but for an older bike that has obviously been neglected by letting it sit for years on years, you are gonna need to focus a bit more there. I'd start with a 50/50 Seafoam soak overnight. You could even go with 100%, but I doubt it will do any better, and it might be a little tougher to get the engine to run at certain points. Simply mix up a quart of fuel by mixing 1 can of Seafoam with 1 can of gas, then pull the fuel line off the tank and stick it in the mix. Run the bike until it clearly has a hard time on this new mix, then shut it off and let it sit overnight. Even better, drain the float bowls before you start this so that you can be certain the carbs are all full of this mix instead of an unknown diluted mix. The next day, make sure the fuel line is back on the tank (and gas ON!) and start her up. Keep the engine running while the choking and smoke clears, then start riding. I'd use a high mix of Seafoam in that first tank, then keep a normal mix of Seafoam (or other fuel system cleaner like Techron) for at least 5 - 10 tanks of gas. Some of that old crud and varnish takes a long time to fully excise. And remember, the inside of the jets cannot be cleaned at all unless fuel is actively being sucked through them, meaning they are not completely plugged and the engine is actually running! The jets are not submerged in fuel inside the float bowls, so just letting it sit does nothing for them. With luck, your carbs will clear up with just that. If not, you will need to pull them, take the jets out an soak the jets in carb cleaner. Before you put them back in, make certain you can see light through each jet! While you are in there, clean out any gunk in the float bowls, spray all the passages with carb cleaner, let soak, and blow out with compressed air. Then be sure to set the float levels - they will probably be way too high (although, your current fuel mileage kinda suggests you may already have one of the few RSVs with the levels set correctly). Finally, ensure that all four choke plungers are working correctly and smoothly, including bending the activating arms as necessary to get them all to start moving at the same time. By the time you are done with that work, I'll bet she purrs like a kitten. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    It is great to hear that your bike handles well - that at least gives some hope that the problem is not too serious. I wish you luck. Just to add a little more comparison info for you, I have included several pictures below of the four used RSV front tires I currently have laying around, and here is a link to another thread from two years ago on the same subject: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14520 In the first picture, all four tires are oriented the same way - as if you are looking at the tire from the front of the bike. [ATTACH]31476[/ATTACH] These are the same tires, just presented slightly closer with only two tires in each picture. To make comparisons easier, I have also included one of jarrejx's original tire pictures too: [ATTACH]31477[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]31478[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]31479[/ATTACH] The first picture shows a Dunlop D404 that was taken off a bit early simply because the owner wanted a new matched set. In person you can almost detect the normal extra wear on the left side of the tire, but not really in the photo. Next to it is an old Brickstone that I recently pulled off my bike. You can easily see how slight the difference in left/right wear pattern normally is by looking at the top of the "Y" points in the tread, near the center. Those on the left side of the tire are just beginning to disappear, while the same place on the other side still shows a distinct edge to all of the grooves. The next picture shows a Pirelli MT66 taken of my bike this spring. Again, you can easily see the different left/right wear pattern by looking at the two grooves on either side of center. The other tire in that picture is another completely shot Brickstone - no idea who's bike it came from. The wear pattern is the same as the first one, just taken to extreme. The "Y" points on the left side are completely gone, and there is just a hint of them left on the right side. I consider these four tires to all have normal wear for the USA/Canada/any place that rides on the RIGHT side of the road. The last picture of jarrejx's tire shows the same left/right pattern with two major problems - the wear is not in the same place on each side of the tire (it is like the entire wear pattern is just shifted about 1/2 inch off-center to the left side of the bike), and the difference between the amount of rubber worn off the left side of the tire compared to te right side is huge. I consider that tire wear very abnormal. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Sir Bad, there is absolutely no reason to apologize - I LIKE people with different opinions, especially the wrong ones! After all, if we didn't have people with wrong opinions around here to balance out those with right opinions, wouldn't this place be really boring? ;-) I'll leave it to you to decide who is the wrong one here. Actually, I didn't respond to claim you were wrong - there are some sound concepts that give at least a hint of truth to most of what you say. But do they really apply here? Let's start off by my admitting I didn't throw out the usual 20 disclaimers since I couldn't cover all points in detail. For that, I'll gladly accept being shot at dawn. But before then I'm gonna bore y'all with some of the stuff I didn't think was necessary here before now. Let's realize that this thread and the particular problem is specific to a normal street machine, and in particular a big touring street machine. For that reason, I didn't see any point in discussing how a track bike wears tires, or even street squids on their crotch rockets. I did, however, constantly reference "normal", not the strange exceptions. As to my comment about what is or is not "extraordinarily unusual for any rider who does not have physical disabilities of some sort" and your exception to it - all I can do is refer you back to the original post and the pictures of this specific tire. This wear pattern is grossly abnormal! Tho I may be dead wrong, I will still maintain that something as bad as that tire will never never never be produced by someone simply favoring a right turn over the left. I guess I'd have to see a tire taken from a normal street bike that had never been crashed that looked that nasty before I could give in on this "certainty." But if you are simply quibbling over the unqualified sound of my statement, made without disclaimers and sounding like absolute fact, well, I'll accept that and sit guilty as charged. But I will still insist that you apply my assertions to the original spirit and specifics of this thread! And I will also maintain that a normal street rider who simply often scrapes one floorboard and not the other will NEVER see any visible evidence of this minor imperfection in their tire wear. On your second point, have you even maybe possibly considered that your tires (notice how that is spelled using the correct letters, not that weird stuff you use) ;-) showing more wear on the right side instead of the more common left side is caused by YOUR riding on the wrong side of the road?? And again, sportsbike riding has relatively little to do with this thread! But if you agree with my third point, I'm sure that will be prooved wrong in relative short order!
  16. V7Goose
    Fuzzy, you may want to reconsider this after taking a closer look at the pictures. I'm not saying everyone needs to have the same opinion about something - heck, yours doesn't need to be the same as mine, and it might even be right! But I don't think so. The most obvious evidence that this is a damaged frame or fork is in picture 4. There are several apparent problems: You can clearly see the side wear end points (where the chicken bars start and none of the original rubber has been worn off) is at a very different point on each side of the tire. This indicates the tire may not have been leaned as far over on turns to the right as it has for turns to the left, which is extraordinarily unusual for any rider who does not have physical disabilities of some sort. So the only thing that would cause the bike to turn the same without being leaned as far would be problems with the alignment or steering geometry. With normal wear patterns that produce a tire that shows greater wear on the left side, the chicken bars are identical on each side, but the depth of the tread on the left is just slightly less on the right. In this picture you can clearly see the long center tread groove is completely gone on the right side in the picture (left side of tire), but if you look at the other side of the same tread groove, it is very deep. This shows that the amount of rubber left on that side of the tire is relatively huge compared to the worn out side. This never happens on normal tires where the bike is not damaged. No matter how badly managed the tire is, too much or too little air, or changed pressure every day, both sides will wear close to the same, even if the wear is abnormal. Similar to my point in #1, the wear pattern seems to be angled across the tire, but not centered. This suggests to me that the tire is constantly slightly off vertical as it runs on the ground, and the tendency to turn the bike that such an error would produce is counteracted by a slight constant force the rider must hold against the bars, causing the excessive scuffing and wear of the rubber. jarrejx should be able to confirm or refute this guess by telling us if the bike always has a slight pull to one side, especially if he relaxes his hold on the bars. If it does, my bet is a pull to the left. Anyway, like I said above, I can't tell from just the pictures what the real problem is, only guess at some possibilities. But the wear is so grossly different than what a normal tire shows, I am certain the bike is damaged. I hope jarrejx can get it fixed without getting stuck for too much money. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Putting in a larger fuse in an existing circuit originally designed for a smaller fuse is perhaps one of the least intelligent things anyone can do around electricity! If you know for a fact the size and length of all wires in the circuit, from the power source through the switches, to the load, and to ground, and you properly calculate the maximum safe amperage those wires can handle, then, and only then, you might consider going to a larger fuse that does not exceed the calculated max load for those wires (actually just for the smallest wire or component - that is where the risk is). But if you put a larger fuse in an existing circuit where the load is consuming more current than the original design allows (hence your original blown fuse problem), here is what will happen: When you turn on the load for any length of time, the current being 'sucked' through the original wires will generate more heat than those wires can tolerate, melting the insulation and burning anything else that touches them. The larger fuse you put in will NOT blow under any circumstances before those wires burn up and finally short to ground somewhere in the circuit past where the fuse is installed. Of course, this may never happen since the short caused by the burning wires my happen between the source voltage and the fuse, virtually guaranteeing a full blown fire. That is just a worst case scenario, of course, but it DOES happen. Don't risk it! Goose
  18. V7Goose
    This is by design. It has two purposes that I can think of - if you don't know the control is on HS, you can go crazy trying to figure out why the speakers are dead. More importantly, it is VERY easy to accidentally leave your key in the ACC position. If the radio is on, this WILL kill your battery in a day or two. It is not uncommon at all for a Yamaha shop to kill the battery of a bike left for maintenance just this way. Since many people constantly use headsets and never turn the radio off, this is a possible battery saver to clue you in that things are still on. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I know being around me is a horror for a lot of people, be we had some really nice folks there too! Goose
  20. V7Goose

    Home safe

    V7Goose replied to Dano's topic in Watering Hole

    Just piggybacking of this thread instead of starting another! Goose made it home safe to Texas too. Ponch and I took off Sunday morning around 10:00, intending to take it easy and stay off the freeways for a couple of days, just hitting the back roads on the way home. Didn't work out the way tho - we ended up riding straight through (1,316 miles for me)! We had a great time all day Sunday, winding down through Ohio on state routes, then picking up US62 near Kentucky and following it all the way across the state - GREAT road. We both felt real good when we talked about it around 6:00 PM, so we decided to ride at least a few hours more, each waiting for the other one to say it was time to find a room. THAT didn't happen; we just kept riding. Once it got dark we decided the deer dodging and guessing where all those little local roads went wasn't as much fun, so we jumped on the superslab and cranked up the speed a bit to burn the miles. I gotta admit that it got real tough on me around 2:00 AM - I was still pretty beat from all the work on Friday and Saturday - that bending over constantly, along with getting up of the ground repeatedly, really tears on my old body, so I should have known not to attempt that ride straight through. But I have a tendency to think I am tougher than I should be, so once again I thought it would be no problem. By early this morning we were having to stop every 50 miles or so to kick and slap each other for such stupidity (and find some more coffee). Made it home around 2:00 PM - really not that much ahead of where I would have been if we had stopped and gotten a good night's rest. All that stopping and trying to stay awake takes a big toll on how many miles you can cover! Ponch split off around Texarkana to head down towards Houston, so I'm waiting to hear from him that he finished the ride safely. We had a great time at Don's, was great to meet new folks and re-meet many others, and the close to 3,000 miles over 5 days was a wonderful trip - thanx to all! Ride safe, Goose
  21. V7Goose
    First, virtually ALL front tires on bikes primarily ridden in countries where we ride on the right side of the road will exhibit some greater wear on the left side. But this is so slight it is seldom visible unless the tire is totally worn down so that left side tread starts to completely disappear while the right side, while definitely worn out, still shows the pattern. I have several front tires from different bikes in the back of my truck right now where that wear pattern is discernible. The cause of this additional wear is often debated, but AFAIK, no one really knows for sure what causes it. As many others have already posted, the most speculation is about crowned roads and longer lines through left turns. Unfortunately, the pictures show a tire that, IMHO, absolutely could not get that way unless either the forks or frame are damaged. It is a sad fact of life that new tires are often installed on any used vehicle to conceal problems that clearly show up as strange tire wear. It is not honest, but the potential buyers always seem to think they are getting something extra for their money instead of being cheated. By the time the problems show up in the tire wear, the seller is long long gone, so there is little risk in doing it. If the bike was mine, I'd probably start by making about 10,000 side-by-side measurements with a known good RSV in an attempt to find something out of whack as a starting point. But the reality is that you really need to take the bike to a good frame shop and have them do the checkout. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    It has been a while since I changed mine, so just going from memory here, but the filter is also in a rubber holder that just has a little slit in it that slips over a metal tab. You just pull it up and it pops right off, take the fuel line off the filter and slip it out of the rubber holder. I don't want to make too light of this -the space IS tight, but I'm a big guy with huge hands (hard to find gloves big enough), and I really didn't have a tough time. Some people say it helps to unbolt the fuel pump, but I don't think I even needed to do that. Can't tell you much more about it here, bu ride that thing on up to Fort Worth and I'll be happy to help you change it before we go out for a ride! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Lossing the passenger push-to-talk button on a relatively new RSV is not that uncommon. I don't know why; I don't even know how it attaches, but it does happen. In fact, I lost the one off my 05 within six months. Just about everyone that losses it has it replaced under warranty without problem. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    First, you absolutely cannot use the front accessory plug in the fairing for an air pump. That circuit is only designed for a very small current (fused at 5A). If you just put a bigger fuse int here you have an excellent chance of melting wires and other calamities. As for access to the fuse box, that should be quite simple. But you talk about two torx screws . . . I have not personally looked at a 2009, but all current Royal Stars that I know of do not have any torx screws to remove the lower cowling. There are two allen head screws on the front of the cowling and one behind, just above where your toes would be. These screws are very easy to remove. There is also a fake plastic rivit in the middle of the two cowling panels, directly under the radiator. This just takes 1/4 turn with a Philips head to release the lock and let you pull it out. Goose Update: I did just look at a 2009 RSV "S", and the cowling screws are identical to all the other RSVs. They are allen, not torx. If that is what yours has, they should come loose relatively easy with any wrench - I personally like T-handles. As long as you have the correct size, nothing will be damanged by just turning them counterclockwise until the "pop" loose. If you are certain your bike hass torx screws, then maybe you are looking at something else? I'm not sure what that would be, since I don't think there are any torx screws on a current RSV other than the front rotor bolts and the throttle position sensor.
  25. V7Goose
    Well, you might think about 29. Goose
×
×
  • Create New...