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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    The first detailed description above was very good, so I'll only add a few comments about my method. I prefer to use 2X2 pieces instead of hockey pucks - no real reason except I have done it that way from the beginning and didn't want to buy and modify a puck. I cut one 2X2X4 that I put on the front left side of the jack just in front of the side stand switch. A 2X2 is the only thing that fits here. It is possible to use one longer piece of 2X2 on the rear jack arm, but the angled metal piece in the middle of the frame is kinda in the way, so I eventually just cut that piece in half, allowing me to position each piece just slightly angled to miss the obstruction. Of course, 2x4 pieces on either side of the rear arm would be fine too and provide a larger contact area. Whatever size piece you use on the right side of the front arm must not stick out too far on the front edge or the emergency lock arm on the Craftsman jack will hang up on it as the jack gets high. I use a 2X4 piece here with the front corner cut off to allow that lock arm to function properly. Once all the pieces are properly placed, I simply raise the jack slowly after it first contacts the left frame, causing the bike to stand up straight all by itself. But do this slowly so there is no chance of the bike rocking too fast to the right side. One more caution - the first time you let the bike down, be VERY VERY cautious of how fast you release the jack pressure! At least with the Craftsman jack, they tend to drop VERY fast even when you think you are being careful! I have personally used four different Craftsman bike jacks, and only one did not do this. As was said above, never put up the side stand while on the jack so you don't have to remember to put it back down. I simply stand at the jack on the right side, holding the right handlebar, and as the jack goes down I let the bike gently lay back over on the side stand. It is all a one-man job. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    It's too bad your shop has such lousy quality control. But with a new Royal Star there are a number of other things that you need to check for yourself. Primarily bolts and nuts. Start at the front fender trim and work back, checking virtually every frame or trim bolt. Pay particular attention to the fender chrome trim bolts, the shifter bolt, and the bolts on the side of the rear fender holding the hand grips and trunk supports - all of these are commonly lost at some point within the first year of ownership. The shifter bolt is so bad at coming off, I suggest you use locktite on it now. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Pegscraper, I am very sorry that you take such umbrage when your lack of knowledge and understanding is pointed out. I did not do that in this thread deliberately to upset you, and this forum has absolutely no place for public arguments and discussions about personalities; THAT'S why you got the PM. If this was an inconsequential issue I would have simply ignored it rather than upset you. Unfortunately, it is NOT inconsequential. In fact, the misinformation you provided is quite dangerous to any owner of an RSV who does not already understand that you do not know what you are talking about. So it is good that you realize my posts here are not for your benefit. If any RSV owner should choose to remover EITHER the upper or lower throttle return cable (commonly but incorrectly referenced as the "push" cable), they put themselves in considerable danger if they attempt to use the cruise control. And THAT is more important than your personal feelings. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Uhhh, I'm not sayin for sure 'cause I haven't actually tested this yet myself, but I HIGHLY DOUBT this statement; it is actually beyond my belief that it could be true. But I will test it next time I am with someone else who has a CB and report back. The most common cause of this problem is positioning of the mic. Make sure it is properly facing and close to the lips. Also check that intercom audio sounds OK and same volume in both helmets - that will test the correct function of your mic without using the CB. If you don't normally ride two-up using IC with your passenger, you might have a problem testing this since you will need two helmets with headsets. In addition, you will need to adjust the IC vol level for that test - 10 should be plenty loud. Another test would simply be to use someone else's helmet on your bike. Goldwing cords are compatible, so it shouldn't be too tough to find someone with a wing to plug into your bike and do a test transmit. Finally, know that this problem is neither typical nor a deficiency in the RSV CB. When I ride with a pack of wing riders, they all commont on how much louder and cleareer my radio is than any of the Wing CBs. So if you get a wing rider to plug into your bike and test transmit, and other riders say it still sounds weak, that would prove the problem is in the bike and not the headset or cord. At that point you should be able to get the shop to fix the problem under warranty. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    My wife and I did the run from Pigeon Forge to Fort Worth straight through a couple of years ago in December, about 1150 miles. I kept asking her when she wanted to stop for the night, but she kept saying she was comfortable and for me to just keep riding as long as I wanted - hell, she never even climbed off to rub her butt when I stopped for gas! I think that run took us almost 18 hours, and we may have been a tad over posted limits here and there. I've done about five other 1,000+ days on the RSV, the longest being around 1,325. I find the RSV extraordinarily comfortable, and 1,000 mile days on it are actually enjoyable instead of a chore. It's not my favorite way to tour; I usually prefer to cruise the back roads where 300 - 500 miles in a day is great, but when I have a target to get somewhere in a limited amount of time, the RSV is a great way to do it! Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Even at the speed you state, you have something wrong with the bike if you are under 30 MPG. I would expect 32 - 34 under those conditions on a fully loaded RSV (without significant head or cross winds). Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Your description sounds exactly like what you would find if you used a mono splitter in a stereo line. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I too want to thank you for posting this info - just checked mine, and it is worn about 1/2 way through. I really like the way it swings from the key ring under the engine, so I think I'll use some safety wire to make a new loop just a bit smaller than the original. The safety wire will be perfect to secure the new loop around the base of the original one without having to modify the bell in any way. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Hey North Texas Riders, there is a special first time offering of the Ride Like a Pro training class coming up the weekend of May 2/3 in Irving (not too far from the Dallas/Fort Worth airport). I'm signed up for the Saturday morning class, and it would be neat to have a bunch of other Royal Star riders there too. I just noticed that the only post about this is in the Safety and Education forum, so I thought I'd put a mention of it here in the Watering Hole to maybe get a little more attention. This course is normally only available in Houston, so this is a special opportunity for those of us further north. It is being sponsored by a special arrangement through the owner of Stadium Yamaha in Irving with the RLAP guys in Houston. The course will be held both morning and afternoons on Saturday and Sunday near 183 and Beltline Rd. in Irving. The registration does not let you specify which specific class, just the day, since they do not normally hold more than one course a day. I spoke with Jason at Stadium Yamaha, and it sounds like they are waiting to see how many people sign up before they know for sure they need all four sessions that weekend. Here is a link to the original thread, and it has a link to the RLAP home page with details and registration info: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=326304#post326304 Hope to see some of you there! Goose
  10. V7Goose
    All the responses are dead on - sounds like your rotor is shot now too. In my experience, stock rear pads rarely make it to 15,000 miles even for riders who use mostly front brake. EBC HH rear pads will last over 30,000. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    That second one is similar to the Condor (but less than 1/2 the cost!). Since I haven't found one at my local Harbor Freight yet, I cannot say if it is built as strong as the Condor. The front part is a little different and my actually support the tire a bit better. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Sure appreciate your giving us the heads-up on this Dave! I just signed up for the Saturday morning session - it would be neat if we had a number of us Royal Star riders doing this class together. Sounds like this may be the only chance we get for the Ride Like a Pro course up here unless the demand is just so great the guys from Houston think it's worth making the trip again in the future. Ride safe, Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Your links do not work. But I think I know what stands you are looking at, and I particularly noted your question about "free standing". I strongly advise you to not consider ANY front wheel chock/stand as safe to hold the RSV by itself. I have the Condor stand - this is a very expensive and well built front wheel stand, and it is what the Harbor Freight stand imitates. When you see it demonstrated at a bike show it is very impressive, and they DO claim it will safely hold the bike by the front wheel alone. Don't believe it for the RSV. The front tire is just too fat and small (16") to be properly gripped by the stand. The first time I put the RSV in it, it did seem to hold it OK, but about 15 minutes later I happened to glance at the bike and thought it didn't look quite straight. As I went over to the bike and started looking at it closely from a number of angles, I noticed it seemed to be getting worse, until I finally detected a s l o w lean that began to almost imperceptibly pick up speed as the bike got further off center. Thankfully I was able to grab it and prevent the final act, but I just got lucky that I happened to notice it before I left the garage. Bottom line for me is that these stands are good to help you position the bike and hold it for you long enough to put tie down straps in place, but I would never trust it without the straps for more than a couple of minutes. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I have absolutely no doubt that they will fix it, but who wants to mess with the cost and hassle of sending back something you are waiting to use? I'd prefer to buy a better designed piece of equipment right up front (especially when it's less expensive too!). Goose
  15. V7Goose
    The dial gauges can be calibrated. The instructions specifically tell you to remove the glass and reposition the pointer if necessary. Just make sure you pull the pointer off the shaft and replace it instead of trying to turn it! Goose
  16. V7Goose
    You are absolutely correct - fat-fingered the 9 instead of the 0. I guess all those various 95, 96, 97, etc. numbers just kept my brain from recognizing my mistake. After all, I KNEW what I meant! As for the exact HP number - I doubt if the difference between 95, 96 or 97 is even meaningful, but Yamahaha publishes this for the 2009 "Features": 79 cubic-inch liquid-cooled, V-four tuned to put out class-leading power — 97hp @ 6000 rpm and maximum torque at 89 ft.-lb. @ 4750 rpm — for incomparable touring performance. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I have been using a set of four sealed mechanical vacuum gauges for 30 years that look very similar - even bought them from JC Whitney way back when. Frankly, not only are they trouble free, they are much more accurate than the Morgan carbtune. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    This is interesting. There are multiple reasons why I dislike the Morgan Carbtune, but one of the biggest is that the instructions on a brand new one that I looked at last summer specifically stated that it could NOT be adjusted or calibrated after it left the factory! And to make matters worse, that particular one had one rod that read significantly low from the other three. Maybe you are saying that you bought a DIFFERENT sync tool? With any vacuum or pressure reading tool designed to read multiple inputs simultaneously, it is imperative that the tool be checked for exactly equal readings before the first use and periodically after that. The best way to do this is by using a simple manifold that connects all the ports together and to a single vacuum source. There are lots of ways to make a manifold like that, but one of the easiest is to simply buy a 4-port air valve at an aquarium shop. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I do not know what you are after, but the 05 and later RSTDs are virtually identical mechanically to the 99 and later RSVs (only difference besides paint is fairing, trunk, gas tank). All have 97 HP engines. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Bigshow, if you can email the picture to me as an attachment I will size it appropriately and put it in your profile. In addition to the avatar, you might consider adding your bike information to the Custom User Title in your profile. That way someone can see what bike your posts are probably referencing if you don't care to include the details every time. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Cracks in the rubber coating on the intake manifolds is pretty common on older 2nd gens, but those usually are only cosmetic. I believe the manifold has a metal interior liner (this refers to a 99 or later Royal Star only - you don't say what bike you have). Spray a little carb cleaner or WD40 on them while idling to test - any change in engine sound or speed shows a vacuum leak. Your popping on decel is probably caused by rotted rubber caps or damaged vacuum hoses on the manifold vacuum ports. This is usually very easy to fix and the AIS absolutely does not need to be disconnected to solve your problem. Again, that information only applies to a 99 or later RSV or RSTD. I do not have personal experience or knowledge about earlier Royal Stars or 1st generation Ventures. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Popping at idle is very uncommon - I have not personally observed it, nor have I seen it discussed. That would be very different than the fairly common popping on deceleration that is often caused by both bad carb sync and intake vacuum leaks. Although I can't say for sure, I would think that a really bad carb sync could certainly contribute to the problem. More likely, if they left off one or both of the vacuum hoses that operate the AIS valves, or damaged one of the hoses taking them off for the sync, that really could cause the problem, but you would more likely be complaining about lots of loud popping on deceleration. Good luck getting it sorted out, Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Yes, on the RSV it is called "induction" by Yamaha because the bike has no active pump to inject the fresh air into the exhaust. Adding fresh air to the hot exhaust at the header significantly reduces the emissions of unburned hydrocarbons in any engine. The additional O2 actually causes the unburned fuel to continue burning as it exits the exhaust valve, thus actively reducing the emissions, not just diluting them. I believe this was the first really significant emission control on autos way back in the 60s (the active injection pump was commonly called a "smog pump"). Since this is a passive system, it improves the quality of all our air with zero impact on your bike's fuel efficiency or performance. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    You are right, that left rear plug is not looking too good. In addition, the other three don't all look the same. At a minimum you need to get a good sync on the carbs, but that left rear one may have other problems. Verify good spark (not just that it is there, but strong enough to cross the minimum required gap per the shop manual). If the spark is good, you may have one or more problems with that carb. Clean them good by using something like Seafoam in the fuel at max concentration for a couple of tanks and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks at the caps and hoses on the intake manifold nipples. Hope that solves it without having to open the carbs. If it was me, just based on the look of the plugs and age of the bike, I'd pull the carb assembly and set the float levels anyway. That way you will know that is good and get a chance to see how much crud might be collected in there. The oil residue is something completely different and harmless. The crank case vent tube runs into the air plenum above the carbs, so some oil mist up there is normal (over time it works its way out around the rubber boots). It seems to always be much heavier on the left rear, probably because that is the low point when the bike is sitting on side stand. Just spray some engine cleaner up around the area and hose it down good next time you wash the bike. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Pegscraper, The answers to most of your questions are already in my posts above and those of others. I will continue to ignore your personal attacks on me, as they are of no consequence. On the slight chance you actually want an answer to the question about the cruise cable, I will provide it. The cruise actuating cable from the vacuum pump (there is no "servo" as that word is commonly used) to the cable junction box under the tank on the RSV is connected to a plastic wheel that only engages the main throttle cable when the cruise cable is pulled from the pump. When the throttle is turned from the grip it does not move the cruise cable wheel, thus that particular cable is never pushed back nor does it ever loose tension. If the cruise is engaged and you try to slow the bike down by turning down the throttle with the twist grip, it does engage the cruise cable wheel, but the tension on the cruise cable is maintained by the cruise vacuum pump attempting to overcome your reduced throttle setting until the speed falls by 5 MPH which causes the cruise to disengage and the cruise cable is returned to the resting position. Goose
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