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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Sounds like you have a really bad dealer - I'm sorry for that. You may have to work harder to get them to do what they legally must do under the warranty. If they continue to give you static on the lower fairing, make them show you the proof that external damage caused the crack. I had my lower left cowling replaced under warranty without problem. I simply asked the service manager to inspect the cowling for any evidence of the cowling having ever touched anything. When he could not find any sign that it had been hit, the mater was closed. The leaky shock is well known, but that makes no difference. Even if yours is the very first one, it is still defective, and they have no choice but to replace it. I don't know why your rear wheel and hub was replaced under warranty, but that is totally immaterial - the legal terms of the warranty require them to cover the bike no matter how many times they have to replace a part. In fact, once they have replaced something under warranty (or even if you have complained and they did not fix it), they are forced to continue honoring the warranty on that part until it is fixed correctly, even after the normal warranty expires. I am sorry you have such a terrible dealer, but you do not need to just roll over and take it! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    KeithR's picture is perfect - the problem is very common, and it is a bad crimp. Generally there is a bad crimp on both the top and bottom of the tube. Most bikes with the problem will show a gray film from the exhaust fumes on the chrome heat shields near the Y joint. This film wipes right off, so you need to look for it before you wash the bike. Most of us don't smell any fumes from that leak (especially if you have a vent in your windshield), but it will contribute to some exhaust popping by allowing fresh air to get sucked into the pipe. If your bike is under 5 years old, Yamahaha will replace them for free, generally without argument. If out of warranty, you can pull the pipe and plug the crimps with either JB Weld or a high-temp RTV. Putting on after-market pipes will have no effect on warranty coverage for a defective part. As for the original question of the RSV getting louder with time - personally I did not notice it, nor can I think of any possibility that would really cause that if the bike is still stock. The mufflers do not have any packing material that could blow out, so if they are not damaged there is no way they could make a different sound. I would suspect a change in the speaker positioning in the helmet instead of an increase in noise from the bike. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Until you have actually tried it, you may not have the basis for a meaningful evaluation. "A" hole does virtually nothing (unless it's about 1/2" in diameter!) It takes a minimum of four large holes to begin handling enough air release to compensate for the high volume most gas pumps spew forth. By "large" I mean about the size of a 16 penny nail - four of 'em. And even with four large holes, I still get a lot of bubbling up through the filler neck from about 1/2 the pump nozzles that can't be properly slowed down. Those of us who have actually vented the filler neck with more than "a" hole will personally attest to the huge difference it makes in the ease of getting that last 1/2 gallon in from most pumps. Goose BTW - if you pull off the vent hose and look into the tube, you will see that the actual hole there is about the size of a straight pin! In fact, the purpose of the tank vent is to allow air to ENTER the tank as the fuel is sucked out. It is specifically designed to PREVENT as much release of vapors to the atmosphere as possible.
  4. V7Goose
    You can completely remove that top-heavy feel simply by getting rid of those horrible stock Brickstone tires! You didn't say if you have the Brickstones or Dunlop D404s, but I'm betting on the Brickstones. There are many things wrong with those tires, but the most obvious is how that fat ugly lump in the front tries to force the front wheel all the way to one side as soon as you start a low speed turn. That is all that causes the heavy feel - you are constantly having to push quite hard back against the bar to prevent the forks from flopping all the way to full lock and dumping the bike. Putting either Avon Venom or Dunlop E3 tires in stock size on the bike will absolutely astound you in how much the handling improves! It is awful hard for most people to pull off a tire with lots of rubber on it, but you really need to do that if you have Brickstones on the RSV. This problem can also be greatly improved by raising the rear of the bike 1" with the DiamondR Leveling Links. Even that horrible Brickstone front tire handles much better with this mod, and I highly recommend it for everyone who is not already too short for the bike. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Sure is good to see a couple of comments here against those horrible things. This quote pretty much sums up my feelings. Putting anything on a vehicle that is intended simply to annoy another driver is unacceptable to me. I not only hate seeing them on another vehicle, I would absolutely refuse to ride a bike with one installed. I have had to ask other riders to turn down their brights when following me, and I won't ride in front of a flashing headlight. Period. I'll either move to the back of the group or just leave it before I allow myself to be distracted and irritated by it. IMHO it is dangerous and less than smart to do that to other drivers and riders. Isn't it great how we can all have different opinions? Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Yup, I'll have my punch along with me; takes about 1 minute. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    You may have been watching the thread, but it doesn't seem like you were watching very closely. The SCR is NOT "just a switch". This was explained in great detail in several posts, particularly #9. In fact, even though the SCR has TWO relays in it, neither one of them is involved with this problem. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Lots of detail here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20815&highlight=narrower Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Yes, that is simply a function of the fuel pump nozzle design - it will happen even in an open bucket. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    The neck is designed for one purpose - to prevent you from completely filling the tank! And why would Yamahaha want to do this? Two reasons: Reduce likelihood you will dump gas all over the place when filling by not shutting off the fuel soon enough. Reduce the chance that the gas in a too-full tank will expand when sitting in the sun and get pushed out the vent line. Of course since the vent holes make it easy to fill the tank too full, it is prudent to NOT overfill the tank unless you will be riding at least 10 miles before you let the bike sit and the gas heat up from the sun and the engine heat. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Absolutely - federal law does not give them any choice about it. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    The 2nd gens have a vacuum pump behind the right lower cowling that activates the cruise servo located behind the left lower cowling. In other words, whatever your problem is has nothing to do with the intake vacuum. Any chance your speed was lagging a bit due to hills? The cruise automatically disengages if the speed drops 5 MPH below set limit. I have had this happen a number of times at the bottom of a hill where the cruise had been trying to slow the bike down on the drop and just didn't react fast enough to the next climb. That is also easy to cause by having the edge of your glove drag on the throttle if you are keeping you hand on the bar end weights. Gummed-up, bound-up or misadjusted throttle cables can also affect the cruise and how fast it can react to changing conditions. The cruse system has a self-test for errors, and it shows a problem by blinking the lights; I've seen that before when my 07 had a strange problem that only happened when it was disengaged from the front brake lever during a driving rain! Since the resume and on lights did not flash alternately after yours disengaged, my money would be on a loose or misadjusted switch for either of your brake levers or the clutch. Testing that can be a little tough since there is a fine line between when they should activate and maybe a bit too soon, but I'm sure the shop manual has specifications for that (I've seen it for the rear brake switch). If all of those check out, then I'd check for too much slack in the cruise cable. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    OK all, let's get this straight. I went out to Yamaha's Star site and checked the owners manuals for EVERY year of the Royal Star Venture for specified oil change interval - the results are a little surprising. 1999 - the manual is not on line, so I could not verify 2000 - 2003: engine oil change interval 8,000 2004 - 2008: engine oil change interval 4,000 I have absolutely no idea why Yamahaha changed the oil change interval from 8,000 miles to 4,000 miles for the 2004 model year and later, but they did. Perhaps they were just correcting a typo in the manual? But they did not produce a second edition of the manual, if that was the case. Anyway, that is why we have confusion over the number - it depends on which owner's manual you are looking at! And the manual does not state what year it is for. The only way to tell is to look at the copyright page for the date - the year shown there will be one year EARLIER than the model year for which the manual applies. For example, the manual that shows April, 2002 is for the 2003 model year. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Actually, you don't know yet, since the true capacity is six gallons. Two possible problems with your test - I have already documented the trouble getting the tank completely filled in my posts above. The other problem was how you drained the tank. If you didn't turn it up sideways, you didn't get all the gas out. The RSV has no crossover hose to drain the right side, so it relies on sloshing and hills in normal riding to move that last 1/2 gallon or so over to the left side so you can use it. This normally works well unless you are just droning along on a flat smooth straight road while praying for the next fuel stop to show up! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I wouldn't necessarily feel good about that - it depends on just how full you were getting the tank. Unless you have vented the filler neck, it is virtually impossible to get that last 1/2 gallon in there from a pressurized gas pump! If you start with a dry tank, 6 gallons of fuel will fill it all the way to the top. By that I mean the real top of the tank, NOT the base of the filler neck (or even 1/2 way up the filler neck). Goose
  16. V7Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Actually, I think he has the correct one. The Starter Relay you identify is probably for engaging the starter motor, not preventing it from engaging. AFAIK, there is no other relay related to the side stand at all, and the side stand circuit DOES connect to the "Starting circuit cutoff relay" (#11 on the schematic). He can verify it by the information in my post above. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    OK, I'm going to go out on a slight limb here and say it is the correct relay, even though it was really stupid of Yamahaha to not use the same name on both the schematic and the parts breakdown! The drawing of the relay looks the same on both, but that doesn't prove anything. However, if the plug matches the schematic, then you can be sure. The plug has rounded corners on one side and a total of 12 pins - 5 on the top row with the rounded corners and 7 on the bottom row. The Lg (light green) wire is the center pin on the bottom row. On one side of the Lg wire is the L/Y (Blue/Yellow) wire, and the other side is a B/Y (black/yellow) wire. Here is another test you can do just to verify your meter and how the diodes should check out. The diode we suspect is bad is between the Lg and L/Y pins, but there is also a diode between the Lg and B/Y pins. With the negative lead of the Ohm meter on the Lg pin and the setting on x10, you should have some measurable resistance with the positive lead on the L/Y AND on B/Y pins. With the leads reversed (the positive lead on Lg), you should have infinite resistance to either of the other pins. You have already said you get infinite resistance both ways between Lg and L/Y, which is consistent with an open diode and the symptoms you are having. If you get a good test of the other diode between Lg and B/Y, then you can be absolutely certain you have the correct relay and that my diagnosis is correct. Assuming now that this diode is bad, you have two options to fix it. The obvious (and most expensive) solution is to just buy a new relay. The $2 fix is to simply solder a new diode outside the relay between the Lg and L/Y wires. I don't know for sure how much current this circuit must handle, so I'd probably just go with a 2A rectifier diode to be safe (but I bet a 1A diode would handle it fine too). You can get one of those at any Radio Shack for about $2. If you want to try that, the actual location of the diode connections is totally unimportant - you can tap into the Lg and L/Y wires anywhere it is convenient. The cathode end of the diode (end with the band or bar on it) MUST be connected to the Lg wire. Other than soldering in the diode, the only other thing you need to do is make sure the diode and wires are completely insulated after you are done. I do not recommend electrical tape for this - it will always come loose from heat after a relatively short time. Either use liquid tape or heat-shrink tubing. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    No need to remove the battery, just the three battery covers. The fuel filter is located behind the fuel pump, mounted vertically in front of the battery box. Many members here have howled loudly about how hard it was to change, but I didn't find it particularly difficult at all. The rubber holder slips loose quite easily. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Pull the tank and open up the cable junction on the left side where the cruise control cable joins. You can disconnect the top two throttle cables there. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    It is in the tech library. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    This is a very important note for anyone who is planing to attend Don's maintenance day, or any other maintenance day: If you are going to do any work on your bike, PLEASE come prepared with all supplies that you might need! It is not appropriate to expect to use consumable items which the host might happen to have - and worse, he might not have what you need anyway! For example, if you are planning to change a tire, make sure you have some #0 or #00 steel wool to clean the rim bead area. I will have rubber lube and some self-stick wheel weights at Don's maintenance day, so those are the only things you can expect to not need to bring. Other things you might need, depending on what you plan on doing: wire, switches, crimp connectors, gaskets, liquid gasket material (Form-a-Gasket), spray carb cleaner/degreaser, electrical tape, oil, coolant, grease. We should ordinarily have the majority of tools needed, but if you think a special tool is needed for your job, better ask ahead of time or bring it yourself! At Don's maintenance day we will have the necessary tire changing stuff and an inch-lb torque wrench available. At this point I can't think of anything that has been talked about that will require other special tools, but ask if you are not sure. Thanx! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    If you are thinking about adjusting your carb floats (this includes whoever is going to have the primary clinic bike and anyone else who may decide to do theirs along with us), PLEASE come prepared with a can of spray carb cleaner! You absolutely will want it to clean up the outside of the carbs before we pop the bowls off (and maybe inside the bowls too). Let's not expect to use any of the supplies that Don may have around there, OK? Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I have no idea what time - probably mid-day? But it would be good for someone to call it so others could plan on attending if they want. I'll be there all day, so the time is unimportant to me (and it is not my bike we would be working on). The sooner we start, the more time we would have to mess with carb settings after we are done if someone needs to. And yes, bring your tach - I'm sure we will have lots of use for it over the weekend! Goose
  25. V7Goose
    All I can say is that a stock RSV properly set up will not have an afterfire (popping on deceleration). Ethanol in the gas does NOT cause the problem, but it might make it worse if something else is wrong. Fixing the problem is usually pretty easy. Unfortunately, once someone has started taking things off, disabling the pollution controls, or otherwise modifying the intake and exhaust systems, all bets are off. Sorry you are having the problem. Goose
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