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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    I have never had one of mine come loose, and I just do a "medium" tightness with a socket each time I put the seat back on. Even so, at about 62,000 miles I had one of the bolts twist off real easy (with all the light mods and stuff I do, I have had the seat off MANY MANY times in the past four years). The fix was very easy: I simply drilled out the remaining stud (very soft metal, easy to drill), pulled out enough staples from the seat cover to get my fingers up in there, scrounged up a same-size bolt from my spares can (cut to proper length if necessary), smeared a little silicone cement or Goop on the bolt near the head and stuck it in the hole from the top, Re-stapled the seat cover back in place Done. Just bolted the seat back on. If you have any problems with the nuts loosening, you can solve that by just taking a pair of vice grips and slightly mashing the threads on the seat studs. This distorts them enough that a nut won't spin easily. Use care and only do it enough so that they nut is just a little too tight to turn with your fingers. The one downside to that is you will need to use the socket to completely remove the nut instead of just loosening it and then spinning it off with your fingers, but if you are afraid of loosing one, that solves it. The other more common solution is to just by a pair of self locking nuts with nylon inserts at the hardware store. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    The 2nd gen shock has been the subject of much unhappiness and speculation. Many, MANY of us have had one or more fail. I know Yamahaha has redesigned it at least once, and I think twice - probably just minor changes from what I see - and the new ones have failed too. There seems to be no way to know just how long one might last. My 05 had the first shock replaced at 17,000 miles, but with over 60,000 on the bike now, the second one is still going strong. Others have reported they have had failures with the replacement shocks, so it is hard to say if they can actually be trusted. The undisputed sign of failure is leaking oil - look at the bottom mounting bolt - should always be 100% dry, no matter what. When looking at a used bike, I personally would also expect it to show a little dry road dirt, just to be sure the owner hadn't recently cleaned off signs of leaking oil! Even then, I think I'd factor in the probable cost of replacement for any purchased of an older RSV, just to be safe. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    George has it right on - the heat is only generated where the resistance is, and his detailed description of checking the pin fit was excellent. I will only add one more thing - don't go adding a bunch of new ground connections where they don't already exist. I know that it is unlikely you would, but since we have been talking about making sure the ground blocks were good and needing a good ground to the R/R, I thought it might be good to mention. Aircraft and modern autos generally limit the ground connections to frame to one or two major points to reduce the potential electronics interference caused by "ground loops". Probably a minor issue for us, and it is certainly better to have a good ground to the R/R, even if that means adding a new one is needed. But it shouldn't be, since it worked as designed for a lot of years. That is why I stressed the need to ohm out the circuits and check the main grounding points - if there is a problem, it will affect the whole bike. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Your stator may be bad - that certainly would cause no charging, just like a bad rec/reg unit would. Testing with an ohm meter should be very easy to verify it's condition. I wasn't trying to tell you that I thought it was OK, just that it would be extremely rare for it to cause the rec/reg to go bad. From your earlier posts it sounded like you already found signs that your new regulator was bad, so I was focused on that. No matter what, pay really good attention to the condition of the pins and interior of the plug on the rec/reg. I assume the shop spliced a new plug on, so it should be in good shape, but check it close anyway - shouldn't be showing signs of heat this quick! I have over 60,000 miles on my 05 and it doesn't show any heat damage on that plug at all. And December isn't all that long ago, ESPECIALLY if you haven't put a ton of miles on the bike since then. I'd really suggest you go back and complain to them about the problem coming back, even more so if they did the troubleshooting. You have less to complain about if YOU diagnosed it and just told them to change the part. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Your description of how the problem started certainly sounds like the rectifier/regulator went out. But since you recently replaced it that certainly means you do need to look for a bigger problem. But it is very unlikely that the stator has anything to do with it going bad. The stator in a permanent magnet system like ours puts out max voltage/RPM 100% of the time (so it can't go bad and put out MORE voltage). It is the job of the rectifier to turn that AC output voltage to a nominal 13.5 VDC, and the regulator to determine how much of the available current is needed by the bike's circuits and battery, allow that much to pass, and bleed the rest to ground. Your problem, and the cause of burnt wires, is most commonly caused by bad connections in plugs and to ground. Any resistance causes heat as the current flows through it. You need to pay particular attention to the main grounding points from the wire harness. Disconnect the plugs from the ignitor, reg/rec, etc. and ohm out the wires to verify no high resistance points. You will need to spend time analyzing the schematic to determine all the plugs that you need to find and check, as well as what needs to be disconnected to get a good reading. Find the main ground blocks to the engine and frame and remove them to clean and ensure good contact. Another cause of problems in plugs is loose connections on the pins. If the mating points between the pins have been bent or lost some of the tension that presses the metal pieces together, that allows corrosion to quickly build up, generating the resistance points and heat. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Describing and diagnosing noises is a tricky thing - what sounds like a clang or clunk to you might be totally different to me. But I don't think mine makes any particular noise when shifting other than the first shift in the morning when the clutch plates haven't fully spun. I, too, have had two RSVs, and ridden a bunch of others, and I do not find ANY of the noises described by SaltyDawg as normal for these bikes. The only sensible thing to do is to meet up with at least one other 2nd gen rider and compare in person. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Your first test is the easiest, and only requires one headset. If the intercom is working you will have audio feedback in your own speakers (you will hear yourself talk). The easiest thing to do is simply blow on the mic or just tap it with your finger; if you don't hear the noise in your ears, then either the mic is dead or the IC is not working. If that test works with the headset plugged into both the front and rear jacks, you can be certain the IC is working fine, as there is no other way for the audio to get from your mic back into your headset. If you get no sound from either jack, then the next test is to simply find someone with a CB and test transmit to prove that you mic is good or not. You can always just scan channels until you hear someone and then ask for a radio check, but there is no guarantee they will answer you. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Shouldn't be too hard to meet up with someone and ohm out their cable to get the info you want. Or just buy a cable from Sierra Electronics and plan on cutting one end off to cross-wire it if necessary. The "PC" cable is the lower cord that has a standard 8-pin female mini DIN plug in it. The short cable that mates to it and has a standard 8-pin mini DIN straight male plug to the headset is a "PA" cable. Basically the PA cable has male mini DIN plugs on both ends, but one has a funky six sided housing around it to mate with the PC lower cable. Or just buy the PC cable and make up your own short cable. BTW - an old AT style PC keyboard has exactly the same cord with the big DIN connector to fit the bike (or was that an XT style? Can't remember that far back!) - scrounge one of those and just make your own. Goose
  9. V7Goose

    Touring Map

    V7Goose replied to rdhc's topic in Watering Hole

    I do my advance planning on the computer with either M$ Streets and Trips (just 'cause I have a copy Micro$oft gave me free a few years ago - the maps are OK, but the program sucks) or Google Earth. I think GE is much better than Google Maps since you can get a full screen display and better overlay options. Satellite and street level views also seem much easier to use. Once on the road, I use free state-issued maps. Almost every state gives them away at the tourist info centers you usually find near the border on major roads. I wouldn't trust anything for planning gas stops - way too many stations have gone out of business in the past 10 years, and there will always be new ones and ones that never made the big indexes. But in my opinion, it is rare that you will ever have a true problem finding enough fuel these days, as long as you have a map to spot towns and plan ahead. In this aspect the state maps will be the best tool since they rarely show fake towns (those that do not really exist - you find a lot of these on Google)! Even on my recent ride around the border of Texas, about 5,000 miles of the smallest, remotest roads I could find that bypassed the majority of towns with gas stations, I didn't have any problem with finding gas. I thought I might ahead of time, only because of the remote roads I was looking for, so I took a small gas can with me as a precaution. I did use it 3 times, but never because I needed it. I often passed up available gas, betting on where I would find the next station just because I knew I had the spare gas! Enjoy your trip, Goose
  10. V7Goose
    FYI: J&M has multiple cables - different small end plugs for different series of headsets. I do not know how many different types they have - may just be two, the older round mini DIN and newer D shape. But then again, there may be more. There are also numerous types of short cables with different pin placements. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Sorry - I kinda thought the owner's manual had all the information necessary here - there is a big CAUTION in bold letters that specifically explains what may happen. But even without that, a maximum spec is usually pretty clear. There is always a reason behind any maximum limit, such as a torque spec, but we usually don't need to have that reason explained - it seems kinda like someone asking why they shouldn't tighten the clutch spring bolts more than 5.8 ft lbs. The obvious answer is 'that's the documented spec'; the explanation we seldom need to hear is that you will break it if you ignore the spec. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Uh, 'cause the manufacturer says not to do it in the owner's manual?
  13. V7Goose
    Motorcycle Consumer News did an excellent article on this in May, 2005. They also did an article on carpal tunnel in March, 2003. They have a lousy web site, but you can order either paper or digital back issues: http://www.mcnews.com Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Alcohol can damage components that pure gas does not (primarily rubber), but as long as it is no higher than 10% ethanol, it is unlikely that you will ever have a problem other than lower fuel mileage. Methanol is much harder on fuel systems - some stations used to sell 5% methanol gas, but I haven't seen that in years. Yamahaha specifically says not to use methanol. Since alcohol has less energy per volume than gasoline, it WILL reduce your miles per gallon and possibly even make a detectable difference in how much power you feel in the engine. I hate the stuff, but often you don't have a choice. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    First the disclaimer - I do not profess to be an expert on motorcycle trailers or towing. But I DO have a home made Harbor Freight utility trailer I built (paying particular attention to making sure the frame and axle were absolutely square), and which I have towed about 3,000 miles with my RSV. Most of that with large dogs in a crate on the trailer - significant because they can move around and dynamically change the tongue weight. Sometimes if they get excited, such as anticipating being let out at a rest stop, I can feel the bouncing in the bike. Even with all that, I have NEVER EVER felt any front end wobble or shake, or instability of any kind, under any conditions, while towing this trailer. I would strongly urge you not to consider this normal. You do need some weight on the tongue, but 30 lbs sounds like an awful lot to me for a motorcycle trailer. I'd suggest you drop that to no more than 20 for a test. In addition, I'd have someone ride behind you carefully watching how that trailer tracks. The observer should see absolutely no sway or wiggle of any type in the trailer at any time. In addition, careful attention should be paid to ensuring the trailer tracks absolutely straight and centered. Two other things to check - tire condition and front fork air. If the trailer is not new, examine the tires VERY closely for any sign of wear difference between the tires (and symmetrical wear on each tire). If you find any wear differences, there is a problem with the trailer. Also inspect your front tire for wear - any cupping or feathering will indicate a potential problem that might be magnified by the trailer. Verify your front forks are EXACTLY equal in pressure; any difference at all, no matter how minor, will affect handling (and be magnified by a trailer). Probably the best test is to ensure both forks have NO air. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I know there are people who will insist their experiences are different, and I have no desire to try and disabuse them of their beliefs, but the fact is many studies have shown over and over again that higher octane does NOT produce more power or better gas mileage. I won't take the time to document those studies here, but they are quite easy to find. Higher octane does absolutely nothing other than allow a fuel to resist detonation in a spark-ignited engine (commonly referred to a "knocking") . It is important to use a fuel with high enough octane to prevent knocking in a specific engine, but anything above that provides NO additional value to the engine. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    This statement is almost correct, and VERY misleading. The sticker on the RSV specifically states 91 RON octane (note the "RON" is missing in the quote). Unfortunately this is NOT the same as the octane number you see on the pump in the USA or Canada. The RSV is designed to run on regular unleaded fuel of 86 PON octane or higher, as stated in the owner's manual. Explanation: Octane is measured with two different methods (Research Octane Number (RON) and Motor Octane Number (MON)) and reported as either RON, MON, or an average of the two, called Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. In the USA, federal law requires all pumps to bear the average or PON octane number. This engine is designed for regular gas. Buying anything higher than 86 PON octane is a complete waste of money, but won't hurt a thing. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Now Lowell, you musta missed a key or two there - can't believe your old Voyager was worn out with only 45,000 miles on it! And I know how much you ride. Wouldn't be much point in buying another one if they don't last longer than that. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    First off, don't get me wrong - I believe you actually think these things about the bike, and I respect your right to have any opinion; it's just so far off what I and a lot of others think that it came as a huge surprise! It just goes to show you can't believe what anybody else says about a particular bike - gotta come to your own conclusions. The ergonomics on my RSV are absolutely perfect, with one common exception - the seat is just too danged low - designed for midgets. Even after raising the rear by an inch, I still think the seat needs another 1/2 - 1". And no, we don't ALL know these are tailbone killers. I find the stock pillow top RSV seat to be one of the best factory seats I have ever tried, and I've been riding since the 60s. I don't even get uncomfortable on it until I hit about 500 miles, and by adding a beaded pad on top, I have done many 1,000+ days in complete comfort. And I have no idea what you mean by "The bars.. like everyone else.." (other than you obviously don't like them). I think the bars are fantastic. The impression of too high or too low RPM at highway speed is very subjective, but the fact is this bike in 5th gear at an indicated 70 MPH is just coming into the power band. If you could put another overdrive in the bike above the existing 5th gear, you would find it completely unusable. Below 75 you wouldn't be able to accelerate, and you would not be able to hold any speed above 80 due to the wind drag. If you have the stock Brickstone tires, your impression of the low speed handling is actually spot on - those tires are TERRIBLE! Any other brand of tires will make a huge improvement in the low speed handling, as will raising the rear of the bike. Sure hope you find a way to sort it all out to your liking, but if you don't, better sell it and get something you like. No reason to make your life miserable by continuing to ride something you dislike so much! Goose
  20. V7Goose
    If the bike was sitting for a long time with that side of the front tire close to an electric motor that was often on (like a fan, or maybe an air compressor), it is possible that the ozone the motor creates could do that. There are other chemicals that can do that to a tire also (I'd worry about pool chemicals stored too close). It does seem a little strange to only be on one side, since fumes or ozone would tend to disperse in the air, but I can imagine a couple of situations that would expose primarily just one side of the tire. Hope Avon gives you a new tire, but I wouldn't be too surprised if they say they are too old. Heck, my truck tires always look like that after just sitting outside for a few years! Goose
  21. V7Goose
    I don't know what you local stations or geography are like, but my experience seems to show a good radio on the RSV - I can listen to my local FM stations for at least 75 miles out of town, and often 100. That is good range for any FM radio, and my radio will auto tune even stations too weak for good listening. You might want to check to be sure the antenna cable is properly connected to the radio in the fairing. I have no idea if it is one cable all the way or possibly multiple sections, but you could probably find out from the parts breakdown or just trace the cable. Another simple check would just be to plug in any auto antenna (assuming the Clarion unit uses standard antenna jack) and see if that changes the radio sensitivity. If no change, the issue is your radio, but if it receives better, you can focus just on your antenna and cable. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    The Oil Light on a 2nd Gen is an oil level light, not oil pressure. When you nail it good in low gears you do two things - high RPMs suck up a lot of oil that takes a little more time to drain back down, and the sudden thrust forward causes the oil to pile up in the back of the pan, causing the low level switch to trigger. I am pretty sure this is even documented in the owner's manual. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I have used both the J&M 277 (earlier model from yours), which my wife still uses, and a J&M 500 series (I think) on my current Nolan helmet. As a radio operator you sound like you know what you are doing, so I won't try to educate on the simple stuff any more (I'm an ex-avionics tech myself). Best thing I could suggest would be to try to get together with two other RSV owners and go in a group back to the dealer. I am assuming, of course, that the other two CBs will be working correctly. If you park yours and one other across the lot and have the service manager listen to the third one while you and the first guy take turns giving a long count, it should be obvious to him that you have a problem. If they are all RSVs (or at least yours and the other test transmitter), there is no way he can try and claim dissimilar equipment! Goose
  24. V7Goose
    The Venture has 5 throttle cables. To lube them all you will have to take off the tank as well as open the twist grip. Under that tank on the left side of the frame is a black junction box where the cruise control cable ties in to the main cables. You will need to open this junction to get to the top of the cables that run to the carb linkage as well as the cruise cable. Pay particular attention to exactly how the cruise control connecting wheel fits into the main throttle wheel, as it is easy to put it back on the wrong sides of the engaging stops. In addition, be careful to get the cable housing ends properly seated in their places. I worked on one RSV where the cables got pulled hard enough that the cable housings bound up on the cables and the throttle would not return to idle from the force of the return spring alone. Opening the junction box and properly repositioning the ends of the cables fixed that. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    You can get them in either black or chrome from Sierra Electronics. Goose
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