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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Yes, you understand correctly. Personally, I'd just start by splitting the fairing and plugging in a new antenna for a test, but if you don't want to go to all that work, then testing for noise on the AM band is a first step that takes no tools. But frankly, I don't have a lot of hope it is the antenna if your IC is too low also. Maybe the best step would be to find someone else with an RSV that will let you compare your audio with his. That might be the easiest way to verify you have all the settings correct. Just putting on the helmet and blowing into the mike (or tapping on it with your fingers) should be all the test you need to compare how loud it is). Goose
  2. V7Goose
    It is possible for the AIS valves to be bad, thus causing your problem, but I think that is highly unlikely. They would be easy to test with a vacuum pump (or even just sucking on the vacuum hose). Your original post referenced plugs in "egr" hoses - I have no idea to what you were referring, since this bike does not have exhaust gas recirculation, and there should not be any "plugs" in anything, so that suggests something has already been modified. I suggest you make sure you do not have any vacuum leaks in the caps or vacuum lines on the intake nipples. In addition, new plugs may help, since the popping is caused by too much unburned fuel getting blown into the pipes. Finally, if your AIS system has been modified at all, I can't help you much, since I know how the bike is SUPPOSED to work when set up properly. Changing that just introduces too many variables to attempt blind troubleshooting from a computer. Here is another thread with a lot of discussion about this problem, including information about why you do NOT need to disable the AIS to solve it. In fact, disabling the AIS will simply make it harder to actually find and fix the real problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22961&highlight=afterfire Goose
  3. V7Goose
    You don't need the fuel regulator, and they will be happy to sell you whatever you want. Your stock fuel pump is only rated at 3 psi, and that is within the spec for that cheap pump. But if you want to spend slightly more, here is another one that would work fine for $46: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000213121/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000213121/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000213121 I used one of those to solve a vapor-lock problem on an early S-10 Blazer back in the 80s. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Heck son, this ain't hot - it was only 102 officially here in the DFW area (but the bike WAS showing 106 between the forks on the 50 mile run to pick up your shock, so the roads were reflecting a bit more!). Mind you, I'll admit there is better riding weather, but riding in ANY weather is better than not riding at all! Oh well, I guess we'll see you when we see you. Ride safe, Goose
  5. V7Goose
    This is not a typical complaint for the RSV audio system. My radio is plenty loud at 10-12, and even when I am REALLY blasting some classic metal, like Cream or Led Zepplin. I don't think I ever want it over 18. Your model of headsets should be fine too. It is hard to compare the volume of anything connected to the Aux inputs since there is no way of knowing how strong that input signal is relative to the rest of the integrated audio. In general, CB audio settings should be close to radio audio for similar volume. Not sure what to advise - you may have an antenna problem. Maybe check the white noise between stations on the AM band - it won't be muted like the FM bands, and it probably would not be reduced by a bad antenna. If AM noise is loud but FM is down, then I'd focus on the antenna first. I think it has a normal antenna plug in the cable inside the fairing, so you can plug in any other car antenna for a test. The IC mic is hot all the time. For my wife and I, 10-12 on IC is also plenty loud. But we wear full helmets all the time, so I'm sure that helps. A common problem for people who have trouble with IC volume is having themic turned the wrong way or not close enough to the lips. Hope you get it figured out, Goose
  6. V7Goose
    You can download the Owner's manual free from the Star web site. the Rear shock has a valve under the right rear of the rider's seat. Max pressure is 57 lbs. You should not try to use a normal high pressure air hose for this. Forks each have a valve on the top, right under the handlebars. Max pressure is 7 lbs. Do NOT, under any circumstance, try to use a normal air hose on the forks! See this recent thread for much good information on this subject: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38093&highlight=shock Goose
  7. V7Goose
    I don't think you can get that plug at all, but here is a way to use the cap as if it was the correct plug: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20166&highlight=power Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Despite the instructions, opening it is not needed. The same vent that lets air in as you use the brakes allows the air back out. Opening the reservoir may allow the fluid to be pushed back into the master faster, but it rarely makes a difference to me. On a similar note, never add fluid to the reservoir (unless you are changing it, of course). If you find the level quite low, better check things out; either the pads are worn dangerously low, or you have a leak. But the system is a "semi closed" system, meaning that the fluid is never lost. If the reservoir was full with new pads, then it will be full again when you push the pistons back in to replace the pads. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    The middle grade one at Harbor Freight - I think it cost me about $60. I tried their top one, but it would not read the codes on my Jag - the cheaper one works perfectly! The current NRA magazines have a 10% of coupon for Harbor Freight too! Goose
  10. V7Goose
    The rear pads can be changed without taking anything off except the right bag - the pads just slip out the top of the caliper. The front calipers need to be removed for those pads. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Confirmed! Shock is sitting in the scoot right now (even opened it to make sure it looked like the right one). Will be there tomorrow. And I do have the credit for your shipping. Delivery fee = cerveza! See ya soon, Goose Since it looks like Tom will be home earlier than expected, I'll probably be there by 1500.
  12. V7Goose
    I somehow doubt any shop is going to have one in stock, but if you can find one in North Texas (anywhere from Abilene to Texarkana), I'll pick it up and deliver it. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    If he wants me to bring the struts, better let me know by tonight so I can fabricate them. Another option might be to pull his shock and have the ram welded in a fixed position. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    If no shock can be found in a reasonable time I can think of two other options - I'm sure I could make a couple of struts to replace the shock and make the bike a hard-tail. May not be the most comfortable, but would sure get him home. Once-upon-a-time that is all that was available! I'll be down that way tomorrow with Tom, Buddy, et al, and I'd consider pulling my shock and swapping it for the order of a new one - my wife can cage it down and pick me up if we have an extended time to wait on the new shock. I know neither of those are great options, but just looking for ways to get him on the road! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I can't help it - just gotta ask . . . Why are you so insistent on spending that kind of wasted money instead of buying a generic pump from JCW for about $40? It's not that I care how you spend your money - I'm just flabbergasted at the decision! Goose
  16. V7Goose
    You might try a solid state pump, like this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2011022/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2011022/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=fuel+pump Goose
  17. V7Goose
    There is a "right" way and a quick way; that thread references both of them. The "right" way is documented in the service manual, and it requires complete removal of the fairing and triple tree. It sounds to me that you really need to do the job that way (it is the only way to fully check and re-pack the bearings). The quick way is shown in the post - it is nothing more than tightening the nut on top of the bearings. In the photo you can see TWO nuts with notches in them. The bottom one where the screwdriver is shown in the last picture is the actual adjustment nut - the top one is the lock nut. If the lock nut is properly tight, moving the adjustment nut with the screwdriver will be difficult as you must move both nuts together (while they should be "locked"). If the they move too easily, it shows the lock nut is not properly set. You can possibly tighten the lock nut the same way you tighten the adjusting nut, but making sure you have the screwdriver ONLY on the top lock nut. For this to work, however, you would have to pry out the locking tab from the lock washer if you can get to it. But be careful, it is easy to over tighten the bearings (and damage them) while doing that. A little too tight won't hurt anything, but a lot will. If you try it, keep moving the steering after each tap to make sure it is not getting really tight. When done tightening the lock nut, you might need to go back to the bottom nut and loosen it a little to get the load on the bearings right. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Seems odd to me that several of you have had to tighten the steering head bearings multiple times. This shows the lock nut is not correctly tightened. I had to adjust mine around 8,000 miles - they were loose enough to clearly feel a slight chatter when front braking over a rough surface (but no wobble of any type). Since then they have never been loose again, and I now have 70,000 miles on the bike. Goose
  19. V7Goose

    new rider

    V7Goose replied to coldinnd's topic in Watering Hole

    Preference for a hard or soft ride is up to an individual, but one thing to remember is that it is imperative that the front forks be ABSOLUTELY EQUAL. Max pressure in the forks is 7 lbs, and they hold such little air that is is impossible to even check them if you do not have a gauge with a zero-loss chuck. The only reasonable option I know of is the Progressive pump with gauge. I keep my forks at 4 lbs. If they are not equal, the handling sufers significantly, especially in the twisties. IT is fine to run the forks at 0 lbs (that is the "standard" setting in the owner's manual), and if you do not have the right gauge to set them, it is best to just make sure they are empty. The rear shock affects both handling and comfort. I generally keep mine around 30 solo, 42 two-up, and 55 when two-up and fully loaded (maximum is 57 psi). I am 6'5" and weigh about 250. I have found that too-little air in the rear shock drastically affects my comfort over a 300+ mile day. I personally find the stock pillow-top seat one of the best stock seats on any bike I have ever ridden - I'm generally good for about 600 miles without any discomfort, and after I made a beaded seat pad, I can, and have, done over 1,300 miles in a single day several times without significant discomfort. But I had an experience at the Colorado rally a couple of years back that really showed me how important it was to keep enough air in the rear shock. For the ride up there with the bike fully loaded I had the shock pumped way up as I usually do, probably even higher than normal to ensure good handling on the mountain roads. At the rally my brother and I rode out on 300-400 mile loops every day, but I kept forgetting to lower the air in my shock after unloading the bike at the motel. My rides for two days were very comfortable, as usual, so every time I remembered that I had meant to lower the shock pressure, I'd just mentally remind myself to do it at the next gas stop and keep riding. Well, I never remembered at those stops! So when thought about it soon after heading out on the third day, I decided to pull over and change it. And just out of curiosity, I set the pressure much lower than normal - I think it was a bit under 20 lbs. The ride that day felt fine - never noticed the bike bottoming in bumps or anything odd, but by the end of the day I was more tired and generally beat-up than I had been from a day's riding in many years. Not particular my posterior - just overall body aches, and the significance was great enough that it really made an impression on me. The next day I put the shock back up to around 30 lbs, and I felt great after a 400 mile ride up through the Wyoming mountains. So now I am careful to keep the shock at 30 or higher all the time. After 70,000 miles on QuickSilver, I'm certain I have found the right combination for me. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    That's about the dumbest thing I ever heard. Are you sure they are not charging you for windshield washer fluid too? There AIN'T no gaskets on the front wheel! And even if there were, the entire cost of the repair has to be covered unless they are claiming somehow that you your failure to properly follow maintenance caused the failure and they are just trying to be nice by covering anything. Sounds to me like your dealer thinks they have found a way to illegally pocket some spare cash by stealing money from you on warranty work. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Looks like probably a leak in the rear of the valve cover gasket to me, but possibly fuel leaking down from the tank valve and dripping off the gas line. What you can see in the photo is just the fake fin covers, so the leak has to be somewhere above them and dripping down. Just remove that cover and look up in there with a flashlight to see where the source is. Really not too many options other than the valve cover. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    I'll stand behind my original post on this - Unless the Original specification calls for a sealed bearing, I would never select a sealed bearing for this application over a standard bearing. IMHO, the most important aspect here is what the manufacturer calls for - if it is an open bearing, your selection of a sealed bearing is a less acceptable choice. Yes, the preferred method for removal is to use a bearing puller - anyone who does significant mechanical work should have one, so it is probably worth buying the first time you need it. Other options primarily depend on easy access to the rear of the bearing. If you can reach through the hub and place a pipe, hardwood dowel, socket on an extension, or similar object on the back of the bearing, you can drive it out that way. The key here is to have a round object large enough to at least cover the hole in the inner race to press evenly around the bearing and drive it straight in the bore. When removing the old bearing you do not need to worry about banging on the inner race or the bearings themselves, since you will not be re-using them. I would NOT use the existing inner spacer from the bike, as you do not want to compress it or damage it in any way. In some applications, you can get a bearing to drop out by simply heating the surrounding metal with a torch. But don't try this with an aluminum hub! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Why would you use a drift punch to install large bearings? Seems like the absolute wrong tool to me. To properly install these types of bearings, you need a tool that will evenly contact the hardened OUTSIDE race while you tap it straight in. If you use a drift punch that is smaller than the entire bearing, you must tap on one side, then the other, rocking the bearing in the bore and binding it. Very bad procedure. If you don't have a selection of bearing drivers for this, just grab a large socket! But make sure the socket does NOT touch the bearings or inner race - it must ONLY touch the outer race. To make sure you do not damage the socket and always apply even pressure, just lay a smooth piece of wood over the socket and lightly tap the center with your hammer. If the bearing is straight, it will not take much pressure to set the bearing in the hub. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    YES, wheel bearings should absolutely be covered under warranty! There is a reason this bike has a 5-year, unlimited mileage warranty - so that the owner knows all parts are guaranteed to last for 5 years and unlimited miles!! As for some other comments in this thread, I agree that SKF bearings are good bearings, but there are many other equally good bearings available too (e.g., NTN and Federal Mogul, to name just two), so no reason to limit your choice to only SKF. HOWEVER, there are tons of crappy chinese bearings floating around for just a couple of bucks apiece, and you really do not want any of those. I suggest you simply make sure you get boxed bearings that are stamped with a major name brand. And I doubt seriously that you want sealed bearings for this application. You will want to use the same type of bearing it already has, and the parts breakdown just lists it as a standard 6004 bearing. I have not actually pulled mine to look at what is factory installed (70,000 miles on my 05 with no problems), but the bike DOES have grease seals on both sides of the wheel which will keep out any contaminates. In this application, sealed bearings offer zero value, and they do have drawbacks. The seals have significant drag (friction), and they generate more heat*. As the bearing heats up, any factory grease gets thin and can be forced out past the neoprene or teflon seal from the heat and pressure, but the seal prevents other grease that might be around the bearing from ever reaching the mating surfaces. If you are going to properly pack the bearings and use new grease seals when you instal them, you are better off NOT using sealed bearings in an application like this (provided they are not required by the manufacturer). Goose * Here is a quote from the Dynaroll bearing company about sealed bearings: D TYPE SEAL The D type seal consists of a molded Buna-N rubber lip seal with a steel insert. This provides maximum protection to the bearing against outside contamination. However, the high pressure of the lip seal itself results in greatly increased torque and friction losses that can cause heat build-up in higher speed applications. The seal material itself is rated to a maximum of 250 °F. This type of seal is only available for larger-sized bearings (R3 and above)
  25. V7Goose
    I see your problem; you don't have a clue what the word "growing" means, do you?
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