.jpg.e818e18bd49ab07b632efe4e592fa8af.jpg){kind=avatar}
V7Goose
-
Posts
3,588 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by V7Goose
-
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg)
I hate to keep beating this dead horse, so this may be my last post on the subject unless you actually have a different question. I told you way above that your regulator/rectifier was bad. I told you the test was to check the charging voltage. You did that and found 17V - that is higher than the manual calls for, and it is why you burned out lights and boiled your old battery. Some things about this bike can be complicated, but not this particular issue. Your regulator is bad and must be replaced. End of subject. Goose -
The part I highlighted in red is not correct. On every one of these relays I have used, 87 and 87a are the SAME connection - that relay is simply designed to allow you to connect two lights without having to splice the wires together. Just or reference, here is an article on the MTA site that accurately shows the diagram for the stock horns on our bike (figure 1), and aftermarket horns connected through one of these relays (figure 2). http://www.mtariders.com/v3/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=316:after-market-horns--march-1991-page-20&catid=82:miscellaneous&Itemid=94 As I am sure everyone already understands, a relay works the same way no matter if it is used for horns or lights. Goose
-
Pins 87 and 87a are just connected together inside the relay - it allows you to connect two lights without having to splice the wires together. If you are going to hook up two sets of lights, you need two relays. One 14 AWG wire from the battery to the fairing would be sufficient for power to both relays together (use a 20A inline fuse on that wire at the battery). The wires from the relay to the individual lights will be fine at 16 AWG. Note that a 20A fuse is not really needed here - a 10A would be fine for the lights. But I specified a 20A fuse because that is the max that would be safe with those wire sizes - a 14 AWG wire can handle 20A up to 15 feet, and 16 gauge wires can handle 20A up to 10 feet. Goose
-
It is always safe to put a lower amp fuse in an existing circuit (but NEVER put a higher amp fuse in!), but you may find that 5 amp fuse is just a tad too small - those two 35 watt driving lamps pull right at 5 amps at 14 volts, and a tad more at 12 volts. The formula is Power=amps* volts, or Amps=watts/volts Goose
-
It figures a rush of orders would wake 'em up, but the revised offer is still very good. I can understand their dilemma - the sales would cost them money, but they DID have plenty of time to correct the error on their web site after my initial order. It was only after I saw they weren't going to correct it that I posted the information here. Goose
-
A google search on the battery number shows a lot of applications. Goose
-
PCW Racing Clutch Spring
V7Goose replied to tsigwing's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
IMHO, a spring is a spring. The only issues are how much pressure it applies to the clutch plates, how hard it is to compress, and how long it lasts before it begins to weaken. I have absolutely no way of knowing how these two spring options differ in any of those factors. But to use the Barnett springs, you must replace the pressure plate with their pretty blue one. Looks really cool - until you bolt the cover back on . . . I DO know the PCW spring has worked perfectly so far, so in the absence of any other meaningful information, my choice is based completely on the price. Goose -
I wouldn't shoot you, but I'm not above walking around shaking my head and chuckling. THAT IS THE FUGLIEST BIKE I HAVE EVER SEEN, ANYWHERE! But I guess at least one person must share your opinion - I saw one on the road once; danged near fell of my Venture laughing at it! Goose
-
I'm not arguing about this, just having a good time debating and trying to correct a number of 'less than optimal' statements that some folks are throwing out. But there is one thing I WILL argue over, and that is the FACT that best practice is to always use a torque wrench on any bolt with a torque specification provided by the manufacturer. Anyone who says you should NOT use a torque wrench (as opposed to just saying they don't WANT to) is an absolute idiot who should be prohibited from purchasing tools in any civilized country! The fact is, I don't use a torque wrench on drain plugs either, and I can't recall ever having stripped one (been wrenching WAY too many years to remember for sure, so I won't be stupid enough to represent that as an absolute fact), but I have had to repair a number of them for other people. The fact that there are so many different options available for this repair is proof in my mind that it is a common problem for inexperienced people. Here is just one sample of over 25 different options: http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_plugs_oversize_repair.htm You and I, and anyone else, are free to decide we don't NEED or WANT to use a torque wrench on any bolt or plug, but I'd sure hate to see someone who wasn't already sure enough of themselves to decide it wasn't necessary just because we said we didn't do it on a forum. BTW, just for reference, our Oil Drain Plug (M14) torque spec is 31 ft*lbs, but the rear drain plug (also an M14) is only 17 ft*lbs. There is a reason Yamaha published a different spec for those two plugs. I don't know what it is, but I DO know that torquing both of those the same (with or without a torque wrench) is inviting a disaster somewhere. Good luck in whatever choices you make, Goose
-
Shoot man, looks like there's gonna be about 500 shim kits floating around out there now! Heck, if I knew what size shims my next bike was gonna use, I'd order a kit for that too! Goose
-
Well, your grandmother must be screwing up a lot of cars out there then, or else you wouldn't find oil pan plug repair kits hanging in every auto parts store in the nation! Goose
-
Click the link and read the three bullets on that page. The cheapest price I could find on the same starter kit anywhere else was $104.00, so $5.95 sounds pretty good, doesn't it? Heck, even if it was just the empty box it would still be a good buy! Goose
-
Why torque it? That's pretty obvious to me - because YOUR calibrated wrist may not be the same as Joe's, and if Joe uses a torque wrench set the the value in the manual, he can't screw it up. Is that "teknikal" enough for you? Goose
-
It is very common for the pins in the plug for the two big output wires to overheat, so if yours look good with no discoloring of the plastic, then the contacts are good - sounds to me like your luck is holding on this one. Goose
-
Yup, I am going to use that to fill out the kit in the needed ranges - I just didn't want to order too much the first time to see if I could get the kit at that ridiculous price (and I did). I thought if I got too greedy up front there was a bigger chance they would tell me to take a hike! It will cost me a little more shipping to make two orders, but sure can't complain after the price on that kit! I don't need that shim kit for another 25,000 miles, but at that price, how could I go wrong! Now to order the tool. Goose BTW - I was puzzled over what that little "grinding wheel" was that is included with the kit - just figured out is is a 25mm magnet to pull the shims.
-
For anyone contemplating buying or putting together a valve shim kit, you won't BELIEVE this buy! I'm sure the web site is a mistake, but I ordered one anyway and got it for a total of $12.90 ($5.95+shipping)! I expected them to call me and say "no way", but it arrived today! :cool10: And now they have even LOWERED that price! Better get your order in before they change it. Order the starter kit from this page: http://www.preferredpowersports.com/eshopprod_cat_5347-19112-30104_product_736199_keyword_25mm+AND+shims.KL_HONDAYAMAHA_SHIMS.htm Goose
-
I am not surprised that your new battery is working, or that the bike started. But you need to check the charging voltage before you do much else. Actually, the FIRST thing I would do is disconnect the reg/rec and look closely at the plug to see if there is any sign of overheating. Then properly re-connect and re-attach that unit and start the bike so you can check the voltage at the battery terminals. If the voltage doesn't look right, don't run the engine any more until you can replace the regulator/rectifier. Goose
-
Beam-type torque wrenches are very imprecise, but much better than nothing. Clicker wrenches should be periodically calibrated, but virtually none of us go to the expense and effort to have that done. But you CAN check them yourself. Checking the accuracy of a torque wrench is not too difficult IF you have at least two wrenches with overlapping ranges. Here's how: You need a high grade bolt and nut - I prefer grade 8 (six radial lines on the head) where a 7/16-14 bolt would allow you to test up to around 70 ft lbs. Make sure the threads on the bolt go all the way to the head, and put at least one large washer on the bolt. Now clamp the nut in a vise with the top side flush with surface of the vice, then screw the bolt all the way in. Set your first torque wrench to a low setting in the range that is covered by your second wrench. For example, if both wrenches go from 10-100 ft*lbs, I would start at 15 ft*lbs. Carefully tighten the bolt in the vise until the wrench clicks. Now switch to the second wrench, set to the same torque, and see if it clicks BEFORE the bolt turns at all. If so, that is good, but you are only 1/2 done! What you have just shown is that the first wrench did not tighten the bolt any LESS than the same setting on the second wrench, but it MAY have tightened it more. So to complete the check, you need to loosen the bolt, then repeat the above steps starting with wrench #2. If this test also shows the second wrench clicks before the bolt turns any more, then you can be confident that both wrenches are setting the same torque, so they are almost certainly both correct. Now increase the setting on both wrenches up to something in the middle of the range and re-do the whole test. The only thing you need to be careful about is to make sure the max torque setting you test is within what the bolt grade and size can handle. If the two wrenches you are testing do not both click at the same setting, no matter which one you start with, then at least one of them is bad. To find out which one, you will have to find a third wrench to test. When you have two wrenches that both click the same when you do the entire test above, then you can use either one of those as a baseline to compare other wrenches. Just an FYI to anyone who brashly wants to claim all Harbor Freight torque wrenches are junk - I have a total of 5 torque wrenches here - two from HF (a 1/4" drive clicker and a 3/8" drive clicker), an old beam type wrench in in*lbs, and two very high quality 1/2" drive clickers that were calibrated by a USAF test lab. ALL of those wrenches test the same in every point where the ranges overlap, so the HF wrenches are dead accurate within a reasonable tolerance. The only complaint I have at all against one of the HF wrenches (the 1/4" drive) is that the gradations on the handle are a bit more difficult to use when setting the torque value - I had to compare it to the other wrenches to be sure I was reading it correctly. So if anyone in the North Texas area wants to check their torque wrenches, we can compare them to mine. Goose BTW - How you store your clicker-type torque wrench is important. If you do not have (or haven't bothered to read) the instructions that came with your wrench, you might be in the habit of just chucking the wrench back in your tool box after that last "click" on the last bolt of the job. But it is important to turn the torque setting all the way down to remove the tension from the internal spring before putting it away. Leaving the spring under tension is the biggest reason why these types of torque wrenches change calibration.
-
Beam-type torque wrenches are very imprecise, but much better than nothing. Clicker wrenches should be periodically calibrated, but virtually none of us go to the expense and effort to have that done. But you CAN check them yourself. Checking the accuracy of a torque wrench is not too difficult IF you have at least two wrenches with overlapping ranges. Here's how: You need a high grade bolt and nut - I prefer grade 8 (six radial lines on the head) where a 7/16-14 bolt would allow you to test up to around 70 ft lbs. Make sure the threads on the bolt go all the way to the head, and put at least one large washer on the bolt. Now clamp the nut in a vise with the top side flush with surface of the vice, then screw the bolt all the way in. Set your first torque wrench to a low setting in the range that is covered by your second wrench. For example, if both wrenches go from 10-100 ft*lbs, I would start at 15 ft*lbs. Carefully tighten the bolt in the vise until the wrench clicks. Now switch to the second wrench, set to the same torque, and see if it clicks BEFORE the bolt turns at all. If so, that is good, but you are only 1/2 done! What you have just shown is that the first wrench did not tighten the bolt any LESS than the same setting on the second wrench, but it MAY have tightened it more. So to complete the check, you need to loosen the bolt, then repeat the above steps starting with wrench #2. If this test also shows the second wrench clicks before the bolt turns any more, then you can be confident that both wrenches are setting the same torque, so they are almost certainly both correct. Now increase the setting on both wrenches up to something in the middle of the range and re-do the whole test. The only thing you need to be careful about is to make sure the max torque setting you test is within what the bolt grade and size can handle. If the two wrenches you are testing do not both click at the same setting, no matter which one you start with, then at least one of them is bad. To find out which one, you will have to find a third wrench to test. When you have two wrenches that both click the same when you do the entire test above, then you can use either one of those as a baseline to compare other wrenches. Just an FYI to anyone who brashly wants to claim all Harbor Freight torque wrenches are junk - I have a total of 5 torque wrenches here - two from HF (a 1/4" drive clicker and a 3/8" drive clicker), an old beam type wrench in in*lbs, and two very high quality 1/2" drive clickers that were calibrated by a USAF test lab. ALL of those wrenches test the same in every point where the ranges overlap, so the HF wrenches are dead accurate within a reasonable tolerance. The only complaint I have at all against one of the HF wrenches (the 1/4" drive) is that the gradations on the handle are a bit more difficult to use when setting the torque value - I had to compare it to the other wrenches to be sure I was reading it correctly. So if anyone in the North Texas area wants to check their torque wrenches, we can compare them to mine. Goose
-
I am not going to speculate why you had such problems, but I won't condemn Yuasa for it, at least not without better information. My stock Yuasa battery went 4 1/2 years without problems, then I swapped it for one out of a wrecked 2007 just 'cause the other battery was two years younger, not because I needed to. There WAS a period, back about 10 or 15 years ago IIRC, when Yuasa batteries had a period of "sudden 'SNAP' failure." This was a problem when the rider would hear a loud "SNAP" or POP, and the battery would then be totally dead. I don't remember exactly when this was, but it has been corrected for many years now. Frankly, when looking for a replacement battery, I would prefer a Yuasa, but that's just my preference. Goose
-
I just ride the dirt roads with QuickSilver - does the job just fine. But it IS a PIA to wash after! Goose
-
Somewhat normal for a wet clutch - initially the plates are stuck together, even when the clutch is pulled, but the sudden power of the engine running causes them to free up. Holding the brake should allow the plates to break free with just the power of the starter. This is the same reason you often get a clunk and jerk when you engage 1st gear the first time after starting in the morning. Old oil makes this worse. Changing oil can help, either just fresh oil, or a different brand. But generally, I wouldn't sweat it. Goose
-
removed cassette, added gauges......done
V7Goose replied to jlh3rd's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yes, that water plug IS tough to remove - it is cemented in. Either a hammer or a cheater bar will solve the problem (but you don't know me if something breaks!). Goose -
AFAIK = As Far As I Know - that means I'm pretty darn sure I'm right, but I won't go quite as far as proclaiming it absolute fact! Goose
-
PCW Racing Clutch Spring
V7Goose replied to tsigwing's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I believe the vast majority of us begin experiencing some clutch slip from the stock machine before 50,000 miles. When this happens, the clutch plates show zero wear, still measuring within stock thickness. This problem can be completely fixed, or better yet, PREVENTED, by installing a better clutch spring - no need to replace the friction disks or steel plates. The PCW kit is the most cost effective solution at about $85. Because it is such a common problem, I recommend everyone put in this stronger spring ASAP if they have intentions of really riding their bike instead of just making it a garage queen. Goose
