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Found 6 results

  1. Okay, I finally got around to looking at my RSTD exahust tips. I wanted to turn them around so they looked like most of the pictures in the reviews I've read. I feel that it makes the bike look longer, lol. I found what looks like a set screw hole at the bottom of the muffler housing. However, I tried several allen wrenches and those that fit in the hole didn't grab anything and other wrenches were just to big. I guess I knocked off those particular brain cells when I was younger. What am I missing? ps. no picture yet. I added a drivers backrest, my gps mount and wiring but that is about it. 2007 RSTD. All help would be appreciated.
  2. Hi All, I found this list on an other forum and thought I would pass it on. I'm sure everybody has their own specific items they take. TRIP SUPPLIES 1. Rain gear 2. Standard Tool kit that comes with the bike 3. Tire plug kit with new plugs/snakes purchased periodically (to avoid dry rot) 4. Several CO2 cartridges (the size used in paint ball games) and a CO2 inflator 5. A can of slime under pressure 6. A sharp knife (actually from the ROK that we got at an AVA Rally) 7. Fuses (assorted amp) 8. Bottle of water 9. Extra zip ties 10. Duct tape 11. extra bulbs (some of the auto companies sell a package that has one of each type of bulb you might need). 12. Bike Cover 13. Windshield cleaning supplies (Lemon Pledge and a $5 package of terry towels) 14. Bungie Cords 15. Sunscreen 16. A large U shaped lock. 17. Set of metric allen wrenches-avoid ball end wrenches 18. Set of sae allen wrenches (for after market stuff)-avoid ball end wrenches 19. Set of 3/8 drive metric 6 point sockets 20. Set of 1/4 drive metric sockets 21. 3/8 drive universal joint 22. 1/4 drive universal joint 23. 22mm socket 24. 19mm socket 25. Set of JIS screwdrivers (size 2 is probably all you'll ever need) 26. Set of metric combination wrenches 27. Appropriate ratchets and breaker bar (for rear lug nuts, hence breaker bar) 28. Large flat tip screwdriver 29. Small flat tip (maybe a #1 or smaller) 30. 12V air compressor 31. Sticky rope plugs to plug a tire 32. 5-6 foot length of tubing to use as siphoning hose 33. Diagonal cutters (dikes) 34. Pocket knife 35. Electrical tape or duct tape 36. Flashlight 37. Small section of wire (3-4 ft of 16-18AWG) 38. A few rags & hand cleaner 39. Tire pressure gauge 40. Tire depth gauge 41. Spare valve stem 42. Bungee cords 43. Fuse assortment
  3. Gentlemen/Ladies... A month or so ago I purchased a new to me '05 RSV down in New Port Richey, in the lovely state of Florida, and with some planning and a great seller, the bike was moved into a garage of a co worker of mine, who is retired down in Sarasota. It's sitting in a nice carpeted garage, under cover on the battery tender, full of premium gas and Stabil. The plan is to fly down at the end of March and ride back to Missouri, accompanied by my lovely tailgunner Terrie, following the gulf all the way to New Orleans, then heading north to Kansas City, over a 7 day period. This is all dependent on the weather! Well, to make my long story endless..... I would like to go over/service the bike, install some leveling links, crashbar supports, my Garmin 660 with the Buddyrich cable, and perhaps a new F4 windshield before I depart from there, and wondered if anyone in Sarasota or surrounding areas, would be able to help, by way of a garage and/or wrenches, in getting this work done, before I head back. I work on all my vehicles/ bikes myself, but have never worked on a RSV. Splitting the fairing would be the first lesson. The leveling links, well that is just wrenching. Just need a jack. I can swing wrenches, but where the bike is sitting, there are no wrenches, and hauling everything I may need is not sounding like a good idea to me, since with my luck I may need something specific, and can't get around down there with the bike apart. What say ye? Anyone want to meet a crazy ex South African, now Missourian? Maybe a little meet and greet/eat. I would appreciate any/all the help I can get. Thanks Brian
  4. Anyone using Harborfreight torque wrenches? Any opinions one way or the other? Thanks!
  5. Beam-type torque wrenches are very imprecise, but much better than nothing. Clicker wrenches should be periodically calibrated, but virtually none of us go to the expense and effort to have that done. But you CAN check them yourself. Checking the accuracy of a torque wrench is not too difficult IF you have at least two wrenches with overlapping ranges. Here's how: You need a high grade bolt and nut - I prefer grade 8 (six radial lines on the head) where a 7/16-14 bolt would allow you to test up to around 70 ft lbs. Make sure the threads on the bolt go all the way to the head, and put at least one large washer on the bolt. Now clamp the nut in a vise with the top side flush with surface of the vice, then screw the bolt all the way in. Set your first torque wrench to a low setting in the range that is covered by your second wrench. For example, if both wrenches go from 10-100 ft*lbs, I would start at 15 ft*lbs. Carefully tighten the bolt in the vise until the wrench clicks. Now switch to the second wrench, set to the same torque, and see if it clicks BEFORE the bolt turns at all. If so, that is good, but you are only 1/2 done! What you have just shown is that the first wrench did not tighten the bolt any LESS than the same setting on the second wrench, but it MAY have tightened it more. So to complete the check, you need to loosen the bolt, then repeat the above steps starting with wrench #2. If this test also shows the second wrench clicks before the bolt turns any more, then you can be confident that both wrenches are setting the same torque, so they are almost certainly both correct. Now increase the setting on both wrenches up to something in the middle of the range and re-do the whole test. The only thing you need to be careful about is to make sure the max torque setting you test is within what the bolt grade and size can handle. If the two wrenches you are testing do not both click at the same setting, no matter which one you start with, then at least one of them is bad. To find out which one, you will have to find a third wrench to test. When you have two wrenches that both click the same when you do the entire test above, then you can use either one of those as a baseline to compare other wrenches. Just an FYI to anyone who brashly wants to claim all Harbor Freight torque wrenches are junk - I have a total of 5 torque wrenches here - two from HF (a 1/4" drive clicker and a 3/8" drive clicker), an old beam type wrench in in*lbs, and two very high quality 1/2" drive clickers that were calibrated by a USAF test lab. ALL of those wrenches test the same in every point where the ranges overlap, so the HF wrenches are dead accurate within a reasonable tolerance. The only complaint I have at all against one of the HF wrenches (the 1/4" drive) is that the gradations on the handle are a bit more difficult to use when setting the torque value - I had to compare it to the other wrenches to be sure I was reading it correctly. So if anyone in the North Texas area wants to check their torque wrenches, we can compare them to mine. Goose BTW - How you store your clicker-type torque wrench is important. If you do not have (or haven't bothered to read) the instructions that came with your wrench, you might be in the habit of just chucking the wrench back in your tool box after that last "click" on the last bolt of the job. But it is important to turn the torque setting all the way down to remove the tension from the internal spring before putting it away. Leaving the spring under tension is the biggest reason why these types of torque wrenches change calibration.
  6. Paul has arrived in the booming metropolis of Brandon. Some minor vehicle problems...no issues for a mechanic though. Gonna put him to work tomorrow or the next day so he dont forget how to turn wrenches!
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