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bkuhr

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  1. bkuhr
    Maybe. env3=900mA battery revolution=1500mA battery both use micro usb which = 5vdc car chargers typically use voltage converter to step down 12-14v to steady 5vdc, and may include overcurrent protection circuit (typically fuse), but not typically current control. I believe it would work just fine, just take longer to restore full charge, but would likely be same longer time with other charger. past aircraft and component repair electrician
  2. bkuhr
    On 1st gen it is difficult to get pressure cap on correctly, maybe yours is cockeyed?
  3. bkuhr
    What are the watts rating of the lamps(bulbs)? lamp 1 watts + lamps 2 watts=total watts total watts/(divided by)12V electrical system amps required+10%=fuse size, use next higher common size. ex: 35 watts lamps 35w+35w=70 watts 70w/12v=5.8 amps 5a+10%=6.4 amps next common fuse size is 7.5amp If you are using a fuse correctly rated and it still blows, then there is a problem, shorted wiring, lamp socket, etc.
  4. bkuhr
    Glad we have it fixed. As for throttle cable, I had same issue, but not sure if I remember enough of how I fiddled with it to explain to you. I think I had to switch the cable that came loose(close cable) and start the other cable (open cable) first. Then work the close cable cable on with needle nose pliers while holding grip open . Be sure not to crush, nick, scratch, twist or otherwise damage the cable core. Also good time for cable lube. I think prefered method is to take cables apart at the slider box, but a pain if all the plastic is on. Be sure to work throttle as you retighten grip to bar and align 'keyway' into bar, ensure there is no bind. One time I had 'rolled/twisted' cable core 180deg while installing, and it bound up and had to come back apart. Got 3 hands?
  5. bkuhr
    Its not that bad anymore, the 47D has 700 fewer leak points than the A,B,C's:doh:
  6. bkuhr
    here's a thread about rear wheel assembly http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515
  7. bkuhr
    I might suggest you try to get an amp reading during operation to check for charging. Most meters can not handle the current during starting, so I propose the following Hook meter, set to highest amp scale, between + batt post, and + mc wire removed from this batt post. red meter lead to battery, and black meter lead to MC wire. Then attach an auto jumper cable from batt + post to mc wire removed from this batt post same as meter, except use both red jumper cable leads on both ends(making a high current jumper wire that can be removed) Now start bike, and after warmed up and idling smoothly, remove one side of the auto jumper cable. Now you can read your meter, during both idle and high rpm. scale down the meter range for best reading, but dont scale below a current reading (ie if reading 3a on 20a scale, dont scale down to a 200mA range. The reading should be a + number to indicate current to the battery. A minus( - )# would indicate battery discharging. After starting, should have a high + # for about 5 minutes than decreases as that battery recovers from the start. It should decrease to a point that supports all the loads of the bike, but remain a +#. Just a suggestion
  8. bkuhr
    I do not believe in stupid guestions, if you don't know and ask, you deserve an answer-even if it is a smart @ss one.( this will also help to remember). I do not know the answer to your question, but based on my knowledge of ealier models, I suspect the the PO replaced the flasher, vs the cancel unit to a non cancel type. You also have 2009 RMV listed, I believe you mean RSV. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in. I would encourage you to read the service manual, although I admit, usually not very clear on component locations.
  9. bkuhr
    Here a little better post about it http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59882&highlight=shift+segment
  10. bkuhr
    Likely dropped a pin in the gear selector. Will have to pull clutch cover and basket to access. Recommend upgrade to later model gear selector, as the pins are in a cast gear, vs current springsteel plate holding them in. This post talks about them http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61890&highlight=shift
  11. bkuhr
    Ya, If ya had a garage to hide it in:witch_brew:
  12. bkuhr
    My first thought is to check for vacum leaks. During idle spray carb cleaner everywhere under carbs listening for rpm change. If so pinpoint it. maybe blew off sync plug, cracked vac line, etc.
  13. bkuhr
    During your previous test here, due to no change, I suspect you also have defective hazard switch, assuming that you mean tan/yellow did not change when switch on or off. I think you have proved a defective 41r relay. Unsure if components of this relay can be repaired/replaced The start cutout relay is also part of the 41r relay, and when pressing start button to activate cutout relay, you are also disabling the headlight circuit. Blowing the signal fuse does account for loss of dash instruments. I believe you had a bad electrical short problem to blow hazard, signal, and headlight fuses. All these systems are related to the 41r relay, and as 41r has both power and ground inputs, it is possible that defective 41r caused all your problems- but it it just a guess that nothing else is wrong. Pretty sure we have proved there are no wiring problems with the turn wiring/switch. The only other thought I have about blowing headlight, is if the start switch contacts stuck/tilted, it is possible ground would be applied to hot headlight circuit. I might suggest that you clean the contacts of the start switch same as you did with the turn and dim switches.
  14. bkuhr
    Brian, not quite. 1)in normal operation, hazard off, power for the turns comes from the brown wire, from the signal fuse. 2)in emergency operation, hazard on, power for the turns comes from the red wire, and both left and right turns are connected together, bypassing the actual turn switch. In reading the schematic, the dark bold circles connected together indicate points, wires, that are connected in that particular switch position. In your hazard switch -In off position, only brown and brown/yellow are connected together. all other wires are not connected to anything -In on position, red is connected to brown/yellow. separately, brown/white is connected to both dark green and chocolate. Also separately, yellow/red is connected to black(ground). Hope this help reading schematic.
  15. bkuhr
    Attached is Dingy's expanded view of the wiring diagram. I might suggest take copy of file to local copy printer (KINKOS..etc) and have them print you a color copy on large (11x17) paper. It will be easier to follow along what is being talked about, and to learn how your bike is wired. Next as I look at the diagram, the wire color you are calling tan is brown, or brown with colored stripes, white or yellow. The red wire should have power key on or off. I think the first thing I would try, is to bypass the hazard switch. Do this by 1. Key off, remove hazard switch 2. On the bike side connector place a temparary jumper wire from Red to Brown/White. This should apply power bike on or off direct to the turn switch, also bypassing the turn flasher 3. Now try left and right turn. The corners, L or R, should light up but not flash. If so this proves turn wiring is ok. 4. Remove above jumper and place from brown to brown/white. Turn key ON. Test turns as before. If good this proves key on circuit thru signal fuse. Turn key OFF. 5.Now remove jumper and place from brown to brown/yellow. This puts the flasher back in the circuit. Key ON, try turns again. Thay should work as before except this time flash. If step 5 failed I would replace the relay assembly If step 1-4 worked, I would suspect defective hazard switch If something in 1-4 fails, let us know, may have wiring or turn switch issue.
  16. bkuhr
    Tom While synthetic oil does not 'cause' leaks, it does a very good job of cleaning the inside of the engine, including old dino oil sludge that may have plugged off old leaks. Then it appears that synthic has started a leak. A couple of spots on 83 that seem to frequently leak: valve covers, wire bushing coming out of alternator, neutral position switch. Keep in mind, old brake fluid absorbs water from atmosphere. Water = rust. If you look in reseviors, you may find that float switch is cover with rust. Also applies to clutch system. You are correct, if there is currently no air in system, and you can prevent adding air to system, then you wont have to wory about bleeding at the tripletree.(But I would suggest identifying the area, as the mods you are looking at doing will add air that will need to be bled here. I'll let others answer as to brake mods, as I have not done them. Lots of options. some member vendors here. I think skydoc17 has just about all the parts you could want. I have done the progressive springs, and best thing since icecream. Not even necessary to run any air in front forks. You can also search the form using terms such as brake mod, progressive, delink, etc. Lot of writeups with pics.
  17. bkuhr
    I had made the mistake of topping off the system thru the coolant bottle. Only problem was overflow tube from radiator to bottle was plugged, and I never had radiator topped off. Suggest pull the overflow tube at the radiator, bottle should drain immeadiatly. Also make sure you can blow air thru radiator overflow nipple with pressure cap off. I also replaced my pressure cap. I ran just under red even stopped in traffic after correcting these items. Prior to this I was middle red.
  18. bkuhr
    The oil light is controlled by oil level switch in bottom of the sump. Your description sounds like the cmu is working properly, but an easy test would be to disconnect the wire from the oil level switch on bottom of pan(only wire down here) and touch the wire to the engine casing while watching the light, light should be on when wire touched to ground(engine). You may be correct with oil slow to return to sump. Here is what I am using http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx BTW, oil should be checked on level surface with bike held straight upright, off side stand. It should be between the 2 hash marks on the sight glass. Do not overfill, will pump excess into air cleaner box. Can put on center stand but I find it easier to just grab right bar and pull it up and look. The brake light could be due to there are two, 2, brake masters/reservors. The front one on handle bars operate right front brake. There is a rear master on the right rear of the motor down low that operates the rear and left front bars. (integrated braking system). Each of these masters has a low level switch 'in the master', wired in parallel, either one will active warning light. The rear is difficult to inspect fluid level. It has a brass plug in the side of it, and the plug is known to seize to the reservoir, braking the reservoir in the process of removal. If you can not easily get this screw out-stop trying, and completely remove the master out to where you can work on it. then apply anti seize on reassembly. Probably need to use 'turkey baster' to add and check fluid. If you can get the brake light to stay on, then disconnect the switch wiring at the reservoir first rear then front to determine which one will cause light to turn off. this is the one with stuck low level float or actual low fluid. Bleeding this integrated left front is a real bear. Likely require cracking banjo fitting up high under triple tree to bleed air. Others have removed integrated brake systems, and others have upgraded to MK II brakes, and capped off anti dive assemblies if progressive spring installed in the forks.
  19. bkuhr
    Resistor used for electronic noise suppression not just for radio, but also for other electronic systems such as engine control computer. Resistor causes spark to slow down, ie: last longer. This time change is what limits high freq noise, but as the power of the spark is spread across a longer time, the strength of the spark is also diminished. As with most things engineering, it is a comprimise. Not saying can't try loosing resistance in one or the other, resistor in cap or plug, but also may require shielding/spacing of electronics, and engine design may be specifically designed for the longer duration spark by cam design, and may have other issues with short duration spark.
  20. bkuhr
    Progressive springs, then no air needed:whistling:
  21. bkuhr
    It just hit me as I read this. I suspect your choke is open/ not closing. First suggest close look at choke(enrichers:witch_brew:) plungers bottom out completely, actually push on them to see if more play inward. Second look at plugs to find rich cylinder/s. Third-not sure easy way to test for defective plunger short of bank removal, and even then not sure how to prove plunger will not close- maybe someone has idea, but rich test of plugs should indicate which carb may have defective plunger.
  22. bkuhr
    I have not seen anyone mention to check for carb linkage obstructions. Are all the butterflies opening completly? When I put may carbs back together, I had a bent link arm that prevented doing a good sync as butteflies could not be made the same, but suspect bent/jammed link or throttle cables could prevent full throttle. Suggest hold sliders back and check response of each butterfly.
  23. bkuhr
    Any fail indications on the dash display CMU? (headlight) Power for turns run thru the Hazard switch when off from signal fuse. Power for hazard run thru hazard switch when on from main fuse. Thinking bad hazard switch.
  24. bkuhr
    After 3 tries, i think I would take wheel off car and submerge in tub of water and identify leak myself. Then mark the tire or rim at point of leak (chalk on tire or masking tape on wheel), then take wheel back to shop for disassembly and correct the problem. After correction resubmerge wheel in tub again.
  25. bkuhr
    Glad it was easy fix. As for 4 way, most likely broke wire at, or defective hazard switch itself to operate left sdie but not right side.
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