GeorgeS
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Everything posted by GeorgeS
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Have you done the check for head shake, on a nice straight road, at about 55, take hands off both bars, and see if you start to get any head shake . check a several different speeds, up to about 70. ( But be carefull ) You might check t see if the bike has had progressive suspension front springs installed !! If not, this might help. Also, the " Super Brace" aftermarket fork brace, helps handling !! Also, I would drain, and replace all the Front Fork Fluid !!! Also, if it has the aftermarket springs, installed, you need to use about 1 to 1 1/2 oz LESS, fork fluid in each front fork tube. --------------- One more thing, is my 89, has always had a tendancy to Wander on the road a little. Never have figured it out exactly. I Just learned to live with it. Greeseing and RE-Torqueing, the Swing Arm Bearings, is also a place to check. Also, Under the rear Shock, there are several Pivot Shafts, pull out those Bolts, and clean and Hand Greese them. There is no other way to lubricate tme, If bike is over 50 K and this has never been done, you might have to replace the bolts, and bushings. Lots of us have installed Zerk Fittings, here, so we only have to do this job once. Another comment, this bike is " different " it takes some getting used to, its big, its heavy, and has a lot of wind loading. But the thing will grow on you. I have an 89, and a sport bike, two totally different animals !!! But I love them both !!! Just sit back, relax, and use " push, push Steering " on the Venture, Forget about leaning !! I Ride my sport bike, but I have to " Drive " the Venture, but thats OK,
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Its the Perfect Time of Year, to go thru Death Valley, if you wanted to see that area. With 8 days of rideing time, just pick any routen thru Northern Calif, and Ore, it will be a great ride !!! High altitude areas, are still going to be " Cold " don't forget the Electric Vests !!! Run the Oregon Coast route ( 101 ) if you have never done that road !!!
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Well, in my opinion, the money would be better spent tracking down Drunk Drivers, whatever type of vehical they are driveing !!
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If your just interested in an AM/FM Radio, I would suggest looking for a high quality Car Radio that will fit in the left fairing. And Fabricate a Panel to mount it. Unless you are fixed on a Stock Unit. However there are much better quality radios available now. The Stock systems are quite complicated, and now " OLD " and most had problems. My 89 still has all the stock components, however I have considered many times just pulling it all out, and replaceing with an aftermarket unit. IN Fact-- I might just do that this week, I need something to do. ( Its Raining in Seattle !!! ) Also, look for one that has an extra External Input, for useing an MP3 Player. Or any other source of Audio you might want to use. You might also, consider one of the Aftermarket Combination radio, CB, MP3 input handlebar mounted units. ---- Such as -- the J&M Handlebar mounted Audio System Now this does not mean finding a Stock System, and installing it is impossible, however, as an Electronics type of guy , your going to run into a lot of problems. Check out all of the the Aftermarket Audio systems, before you make a choice. IF--- You just want Music, to listion to-- Consider, just an MP-3 player in your pocket feeding Earphones in a Helmet. Thats the simpilest solution. But that J&M unit, gives, MP3 Input, amplifier, CB, Intercom, and NOAA Weather Radio, all in one. You could then add a Small Car Radio, for AM/FM. Lots of options, others will chime in here. There are many ways to do this.
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OK, the 29 Year old, Honda CX -500 sitting in my garage, started leaking fuel from the tank last night. Seeping fuel at the lower edge of the tank. Anyway, don't want to put a lot of money into this thing, for a new tank. I see on the web, there a re several products on the market for makeing fuel tank repairs. Anybody here have any experience with any of the fuel tank leak repair products ?? IF so I'm all " Ears " as they say. Any reccomendations, or horror stories ?? Thanks for any tips
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1st gen antenna ??
GeorgeS replied to painterman67's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Look at their Antenna Mount, Model 901104. You will see the Stud mounted on it. On top it has a 3/8 by 24 thread Stud. Your Antenna fits into that. Top of stud, is 3/8 by 24 thread, and the bottom is a standard PL-259, UHF type conector. ( female ) You will also have to install a new connector on the End of your Coaxial Cable. It is a UHF type, PL-259, Standard Coaxial conector. ( male ) ---- Radio Shack P/N 278-205. ( these are avialable from many suppliers. ) Also the above mentioned Stud in the RS Antenna mount is avialable from many suppliers. Check Tower Electronics also. they supply all types of Antenna connectors. http://www.pl-259.com/catalog.html See page 5, " antenna mounts and adapters " Scroll down to picture wit Six Typs of studs on one photo. You want 5th item from the left, labled "" rigth angle stud with SO-239, 3/8 x 24 thread " You could also use the 2nd or 3rd item or even the last item on far right. but that would be overkill as far as strength. And you will also have to install as I said above a NEW, PL-259 connector on end of your cable. ( ie: soldering iron needed, rosin core solder, and some skill ) You can get the connector from Tower, also. -
Thats what I though the answer would be. But, I'm going to stay tuned to the market, just in case something pops up that actually works.
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The various products being sold, as Licence Plate, Radar blockers, do they actually work ??? If so which ones's are good, and which are simply a rip off ?? Does anybody know?
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" IF " its still the original battery in an " 01 " vehical, its probably time to start shopping around for a good deal on a new battery. Your driveing on borrowed time, put the towing charge toward a new battery.
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I thought it was Snowing back East !! Why no snow in the photo's ????
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Weepy Water Pump
GeorgeS replied to coy55boy's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
As I recall, only the 84 and 84's had the plastic impeller problem. It was a recall item. If dealer did job, there should be some type of stamp on the engine case someplace. But not sure where. The weeping is a fairly common problem, but usually clears up. Run the engine and see what happens. If you do a rebuild, its easy to do. Pull up the IPC, you need the new seal, bearing, and a bunch of Seals, and a new gasket for the cover. If you order all the parts, including the impeller, from Yamaha, its around $100 to $120 for a complete set of parts. Its a good Winter job !! Took me about 3 hours to do the rebuild, -
The market is flooded with used bikes, all brands. Be carefull here, I know you can pick up some very good low milage used Harleys even in the Los Angeles market for about 6 to 9 K. How many miles on it ? Unless its something special, I would not go over 8K at the most.
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I understand all the concerns here. But for you folks who -- do not ---need EE , or EEE Width shoes , you just don't understand how hard it is to find something that fits !!! and are comfortable, Especially when trying to find a pair of 12 inch " BOOTS " It ain't easy, to find boots for old feet ( mine are now close to 68 years old ) that are comfortable!! I did buy these for Rideing!! They are very good quality leather, they look good, but they fit like work boots. I can actually walk around in them for 8 hours!!! Also, the Heels are a bit on the high side, which might help for a few of our " Height " challanged members. And, Cabela's had them marked down to $149.00 and they do have free shipping that I noticed in there Xmas Catalog. ( Yes , still pretty pricey, ) But my feet are happy!!! If sombody has any other suggestions for a size, EE, or EEE width boot, I'm very happy to check them out !!
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I had a pair of 10 1/2 EEE Justins, Great boots, but not wide enough. I tried to break them in for over a year, and never could get them to break in. Just not wide enough for me. However, they were great quality boots. Point is, if you need EEE width, there ain't much to choose from anymore.
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Ok, my old HHH Wellington boots that I ride with are about worn out and leaking after about 12 years of rideing use. So. I recently purchaced a pair of " Ariat, Ironside H20 work boots " Which basicly look like Cowboy boots. However you can get them in Wide, and Double wide size. ( EE width ). !!!!! I stopped in at the Cabela's store in Olympia Wa. a few months ago to check them out. They did not carry the EE width in store , so I had to mail order them. However I was very inpressed with the Insoles, and the soft leather. 1/2 sizes , and EE up to size 12. So whats the big deal here ?? OK, if you happen to be one of those--- UN- lucky--- folks who needs EE OR EEE width Boots, you will understand how hard it is to find a comfortable " boot " that fits !!! I normaly buy size 10 1/2 EEE shoes when I can find them. In this case I ordered size 11 EE. They arrived UPS, and wa la, they fit !!! I have been wearing them for 8 hours at a time for break in and so far, they are fantastic. Very comfortable, and flexable. Also, they have a feature to allow better entry of the heal when putting them on. If you need a pair of boots, I highly reccomend finding a dealer, and checking out the Ariat Line of Boots. ( You can find them in Cabela's On Line store, price $179.95, not cheap, but I feel they are worth every penny !!!! ) I can honestly say that this is the first pair of " New Boots " that I put on and was able to wear and walk in comfortably the first day out of the box !!
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If you make it to 47 years, give me a call, stop bye, and I will supply the beer !!
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Each carb bowl has a drain. Drain each one seperatly after putting a good dose of Sea-Foam.
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I read thru your initial posting on this thread !!! Have you ever considered writeing a novel ?? From a mechanics perspective, that was a " Great Story " !!!! :innocent-emoticon: And its NOT Raining in Seattle this week, Its Snowing !!!!
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I just buy Mobil I by the gallon, and use it in all my vehicals. So far so good. Wall Mart seems to always have the best price. I run it about 7 to 9K in my Chevy Suv's. Change in the spring and in the fall for the Bikes, maby mid season if I take a long trip.
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Note on the maps that there are two main routs for this trip, ie: Seattle to SFO or LAX. U.S. 101, and Calf 1 from SFO to LAX. And the central I-5 corridor. Note on the maps that for the entire distance there are many State Highways running east and west between these two main routes. ( distance of about 60 to 90 miles. These are the best roads !!!!! They all run over the about 2000 to 2500 ft coastal mountain range However the coast route is great. Also, running I-5 from Central Calif all the way to Seattle is also a great run. Especially from Redding Calif. to Eugene Oregon, the freeway runs thru the Mountains all that distance. This is about a 5 hour run. Check the map for Cresent City, Calif. hyw to Grants pass. Oregon. A great 2.5 hour run. Hwy 199. Also Or. Hwy 42 from Coo's Bay Or. to Roseburg Or. is a good run. On the Calif map, note Calif Hyw 36 from Redding Calif to west to the Calif Coast. Also, note that ANY! route across the coastal range, in Ca. Ore, or Wa. will be a Great ride!!! There are NO bad Motorcycle roads on the Left Coast!! Except!! Any Oregon State Routes running West out of Portland Ore, Avoid that area. Too much traffic, and its bad. In Washington State, ANY road, West of the I-5 Corridor is a Great Ride !!!! If you make it to Astoria, Ore. be sure to ride across the bridge at the " Mouth of the Columbia River " Check out the Coast Guard Light House ship in Astoria. at the Maritime Museum. At Tillamook Ore. be sure to stop at the Cheese Factory, And the Old U.S. Navy Blimp hanger just south of Tillamook, which is now a WWII Aircraft Museum. and the huge hanger itself is worth the stop !! Also, if you are an Aviation Buff, you might want to stop at McMinville, Oregon and check out Howard Hughes' " Spruce Goose " the big plywood seaplane. Keep an eye on the weather reports after arriveing in Calif. If hot, run the coast, if bad weather stick to the Inland roads, it will be hot ! If possible, spend 10 days out here instead of just 5 !!
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Check the " run- stop " switch also. Might have dirty contacts there. Also consider the On - Off Contacts of the Ignition Switch, they are a known trouble spot. Also check the electrical plug, in the 5 wire cable running from the Ignition System, " Pick Up Coils " up to the Electronic Ignition Unit. Bad contacts in that plug have been know to cause ignition problems. ( maby just dirty pins ) Also, pull the plugs from the ignition unit and clean all the contacts. Also, simply check for loose electrical Plugs, and possible Damaged Wireing Cables around the Steering Head. ie: move handle bars full left and full right, check for any cableing that might be wearing against metal, as the bars move side to side. Find your " Ignition Fuse " make sure the fuse is makeing good contact with the fuse holder. That fuse feeds power to the Ignition Unit, and the Fuel Pump. And that power goes thru the " Run Stop Switch "
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Don't forget to Vote, !!! Good excuse to go for a ride down to the poleing place,
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Everything that SkyDoc said, and a bit more. If you are running the Dunlop E3 rear tires, most likley you will be replacing the tire at 15,000 miles of usage or higher. Best to simply order a New Set of rear pads, and replace them every time you pull off the rear wheel to change the tire. If you are one of those folks who is afraid to use your front brakes ( I know your out there ) then by all means don't expect the rear pads to last much more then 15K on an 800 lb. motorcycle. One other point on the rear calipers, everytime you replace the pads, you need to force the pistons to the fully retracted position. This helps to keep the Pistons from frezzing up. Also remember, for those who only run a couple thousand miles a year, time becomes the enemy of your rear caliper, and the pistons tend to freez up. If its been 5 years since that rear caliper, or the fronts, have been worked on, best to simply replace the pads, no matter what, besides the fluid needs to be replaced !!!! All of it. Brake pads, is not the place to try to save money!!
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Well, if she moves out, in a year or so, find several of those stick on sign's, and head back there some night, and paste them all over the glass on his car !!
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What would cause her to burn oil?
GeorgeS replied to Dave77459's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Maby pull the plugs out, and see what they look like. If its actually burning the oil, then one cylinder would most likley be the culprit. The Plugs should show some indication of which it is. Also consider draining the oil, into a very clean container, and running it thru a filter of some type and check for any extreme amount of metal shaveings. ( I would use a cloth filter of some type )