dmoff1698
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Everything posted by dmoff1698
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If I understand your question you are wanting your side marker lights to flash with your turn signals. On a 4 wire system, the brake lights and turn signals are on the same wires. The tail light wire runs both the tail light and the running side marker lights. If you try tieing the turn lights to the side markers, you will also be tieing them to the tail lights. The end result would probably be that your brake/turn lights will be on all the time. On the other hand, if you could find a suitable brake/tail combination light that would normally go on the rear and mount them as your side markers, then wireing it up to do what you want should not be a problem. The brake and tail circuits are independent of each other on these lights. One other thing, you should be looking for LEDs if you are going to try this. Your 5 to 4 adapter probably has a max output of around 2 amps. Adding conventional lights will get there pretty quick and overload the adapter. I knowed this first hand cause I doed it.
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About the CYA part. Still, selling a part that they say is unsafe to use? I know, they are shifting the liability to Timeout or other distributers. BTW I have delt with Dexter before and they seem like good people with quick service. Kenny, I may give your method of setting up the brakes a try but will have to run a power wire first. Once you get the controler adjusted the way you want it, are you done? Do they need peroidic readjustment?
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Are you telling me that you are getting a lot more miles out of a set of plugs than I am? It's been this way pretty much since I've owned the bike, thought it was normal. If 10K on a set of plugs is not normal, then I gots some looking to do.
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Butttttt..... Here in Oklahoma there are no "sales taxes" on vehicles purchased, but they do charge 3.25 percent "excise tax" on the purchase price when you register it! Now if that ain't sneaky!!! A tax by any other name is still a tax. To top it off, if the purchase price is less than "average market value" you pay tax on what you should have paid instead of actual. I love this s$$t. My point is, if you just ask about sales tax, you may not get the whole story.
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Something I've always wondered about. First a little about my riding habits. I have a 99 RSV that I have owned since 2000. I ride on average 13-15K miles per year. Around 90% hiway miles and about 50% 2up. I don't race my bike, but I don't baby her either, I don't mind bumping the rev limiter once in a while, but don't do it every day. Now for my question. Why is it that my spark plugs only last around 10K miles at the most? The bike will run fine at lower to midrange RPMs, but at higher RPMs it feels like a miss or fuel starvation. Change plugs and all is good again. I run the recomended NGK DPRE8-9. I've tried equivalent Bosch but there's no difference. When I change the plugs, they are a nice grey/tan color with no signs of eroding, still gaped to spec (hurts my soul to throw them away). Look as good as new. Why can I get 90-100K on my plugs in the car, and less than 10K on the bike?
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The brakes and axles on the Timeout camper are 7" brakes made by Dexter Axle. From Timeout, the brakes are a $495 option at the time of sale. No mention of aftermarket sales. According to the Dexter web site: http://www.dexteraxle.com this is what they say on their FAQ page: "BRAKES - Can brakes be added to an idler axle? Adding brakes to an idler axle is relatively easy if the idler axle is equipped with the brake mounting flanges (the plate to which the brake is bolted). About half of the trailer manufacturers decide not to put the flanges on their idler axles to reduce their cost. If the axle does have flanges, you need both a RH and a LH brake assembly as well as two hub and drums to replace the plain hubs currently on the axle. If the axle is not equipped with flanges, you will need to purchase a new axle beam with brake flanges attached by Dexter Axle." You should also know what Dexter says about towing behind a motorcycle: "BRAKES - Can brakes be used on trailers towed by motorcycles? Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers designed to be pulled by motorcycles. Proper control of the brakes on these vehicles can be very difficult. Even the slightest imbalance of the trailer brakes might cause the rider to lose control. A secondary issue is the spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This can occur when a Torflex axle is not fully loaded. Under this condition, the torsion arm is not rotated to its normal position, which puts the brake assembly out of level. If the axle is fitted with electric brakes, this non-level condition can result in unexpected brake actuation when the trailer encounters large bumps. This can occur because the magnet inside the brake has sufficient mass to move the actuating lever during extreme jounce situations. The farther the brake assembly is rotated out of level, the greater the chance that this spontaneous action can take place." They sell the brakes to Timeout, but don't recomend using them???:confused24: Maybe because the load in a camper is relatively constant, the axle can be positioned so this is not an issue.
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I also have the Timeout camper with the brakes that I got from 1-UP, but have never hooked the brakes to the bike. First, I couldn't figure a good mounting place on the bike for the controler. Second, my controler does not look water proof so would have to be put into some type of container. I considered puting the controler on the trailer and just running power wire to it, but I still have the issue with water. Also, since I have never pulled or set up electric brakes, I am unsure how accessable the controler needs to be to the driver. Not sure I would spend the extra cash to add brakes to a trailer, but since I already have the brakes, I would like to use them.
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After you have your tank repaired treat it with this or something similar http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm I've had good luck with similar products. It's easy if you follow directions and are patient. The reason I say this is because you don't know what else is under the paint unless you strip it down completely. Coating the interior will prevent future events like this one.
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Email sent!
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Ride only when you are comfortable with the conditions. (I only posted this so I could say that I got a chuckle about a Frog being concerned about rain. Maybe he's a toad?) Just kidding. My mind wonders off some times.
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This kind of post is just as valuable as the negative posts we see too often. Good on South West Moto and you for letting us know. I am concerned with what seems to be a rash of Avon problems though.
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I checked with Dish Network....It's really Hughes.net, at least in our area!! You even get a seperate Hughes.net antenna.
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+1 on a flakey ground connection. I chased almost exactly the same problem for several hours before finding a ground connection that looked good and even worked if you held your mouth just right. BTW Some people wire up a trailer system using the toung/hitch connection for ground. This may work for a while just fine, but the least little dirt or rust on either will start giving you fits.
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I really want to attend this one. Time is not an issue for me, but the wife cannot ride in the supper heat, and I won't be comming without her. If we can get the daytime temps down to the lower 90s or better I'm pretty sure we will be there. We could ride up and back at night, but I'm thinking of any daytime rides being planned.
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The wife and I would like to attend this one. This would be our first VR meet. If we can make it, we will be camping. From the web site it looks like the camp ground is very close to the motel.
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I have a Time Out camper that weighs in around 450 when fully loaded with all my stuff that the wife thinks she needs to take. Pulling this with my second gen is not much of a problem here in the flat land of Oklahoma. On the other hand, in the mountains of Arkansas and Colorado I find myself riding mostly in fourth gear, once in a while in third. You can't be in a hurry! That's fine by me because I'm there to look around, not set some speed record. As long as I'm not causing a hazard by holding up traffic behind me, I'm happy. If the trailer you're looking at is at 500 pounds BEFORE YOU LOAD YOUR STUFF, you may not be happy with it. Then again, it's all in your attitude. If you're focused on the destination rather than the trip, you will probably find that this trailer cramps your style too much. Another thing, you will be pulling a trailer that is almost the same weight as the bike. Unless you have trailer brakes, you will be putting a lot of work and strain on the bikes suspension and brakes. At any kind of speed, this can go bad quickly. Off the top of my head I'm thinking this trailer may be a bit much, but I was wrong once before. It was a long time ago.
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Will almost instantly kill wasps when sprayed on their nest. But you have to get toooooo close to do it.:no-no-no: There are cheaper and safer ways.
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You DO NOT want to mess with her batteries. There will be repercussions.
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My Grandfather swore by WD-40...as a temporary relief for his authoritus (sp?). He would spray it on his hands and rub it in real good, let it set for about five minutes, then wash it off. Never had the opprotunity to try this for myself thank goodness, just saying...
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Thanks for the heads up, guess we'll have to get some bear spray. Ian
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Lets see.... helment-- check cool shades---check riding boots---check READY TO RIDE!!!!
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That is one fine looking camper. I would never thought it was more than a few years old. Looks well taken care of. Know you will have many years of fun with it. You have the add-on cooler/air rack, which I wish I had. Mine has a cooler rack but I don't have the fiberglass air foil in front of it. You also have a slightly different tent design than mine. On the side of the tent (right side if you are looking in the door) my window is much shorter, and below the window is the hole where my air conditioner sits. Since you have a full window, installing an A/C there may be a problem. But if you are building a rack for the A/C to set on you can design it to set anywhere you want. You mentioned that you wanted to install a power strip which is what I wanted too. My main idea was get the strip off the floor so we wouldn't be triping over cords in the night. I bought the strip I wanted and started to mount it to the inside wall. Looked good untill I started to close up the camper.....the way the bows and tent fold down there was not enough clearance with the strip installed. What I ended up doing is glueing a large piece of velcro on the wall and glueing the other half to the power strip. When I get ready to close the camper I just pull off the power strip and store it in a box. I have considered getting a regular outlet and putting it in a shallow box and mounting it with the face flush with the inside of the wall. This would require cutting a hole in the trailer, and I just can't bring myself to do that. Also I haven't figured how to make it look good on the outside. Anyway, congrats and good luck. Interested in seeing what you do with the A/C.
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Brad, If by awning you mean the flap that extends out over the front door, I don't have this on my trailer and can't help. Sorry. But if you really mean the tent portion itself, I will tell you what I do. First, I leave the corner snaps attached to the base until I get the bows fully collapsed. This keeps the tent relatively flat while lowering the bows. After the bows are down I unsnap the corners. I then fold each side of the tent toward the middle. Take care to work the sides of the tent up over the sides of the bows while folding over. Your goal here is to insure no part of the tent is hanging over the sides of the trailer. Allow the bows to fall backward into the trailer. Starting at the bed end, roll the tent toward the center and let the rolled portion drop to the floor at the foot of the bed on top of the bow ends. At this point, check that the bows are well down in the trailer and that the tent is not hanging up on the sides. When the bows lay down, they will create three "loops" of tent material which are now laying on the floor toward the door end. Grab all three loops and fold them back over on top of everything else. I actually have a couple tie straps which I can wrap around the whole mess to keep it as compact as possible and make the most room for cargo. They are a pain to put on and not necessary unless you need the maximum amount of space for other stuff. Hope this is what you are looking for.
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Sorry, but did not notice this thread until now. I've been pulling the Time Out for a couple years now. Mine is an 07 model and I'm not sure of the differences if any. Here are my thoughts. 1. If memory serves, Time Out advertises the weight at 270 pounds. I have not weighed mine but it feels heaver than that to me. 2. Mine pulls just fine here in the flat-land. No problem starting or stopping. In the mountains expect to spend a lot more time in 4th gear. 3. On an average trip, expect to loose around 8-10 miles per gallon fuel. 4. Set up is just like the video, however the floor and bed are a little heavy. If you have a bad back it could be a problem. 5. When open, mine has plastic fender wells in the floor that stick up a couple inches. Don't step on them!! I broke out one of mine on my second trip. Fix was not hard but was agrivating anyway. 6. Setting up on an uneven surface can be a pain. The legs for the bed are not adjustable so the bed is going to be at what-ever angle the ground is at. pick your parking spot accordingly. 7. Once setup you have plenty room inside. I love it! 8. When closed, storage space is somewhat limited (so my wife says). Select what you take with you carefully. Consider what you will need while on the road and put it in bags on top. Opening the trailer on the side of the road or at a gas station is a PITA. 9. Hint: With the bed folded into the trailer there are two legs which set on the floor and hold the bed off your gear. Mark the location of the legs on the floor (I used duct tape) to remind you to not pack your gear there. 10. Hint: The two rear bows which hold up the tent are made in 3 pieces. The center section will tend to rotate and not catch the lock pin when being extended. I put alignment marks (used a grease pencil) to help when I rotate the center section back into alignment. 11. I find the trailer pulls best with 30-40 pounds on the toung and at least 35 pounds of air in the rear shock. We are always 2 up, you may be different. I can set up our camper in about 15 minutes, 10 if the wife helps with the snaps and moving gear around. Closing is about the same if you remove all your gear before you start. Hope this helps.
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Of hitch do you have and how is it attached to the bike? Does the hitch attach directly to the frame just below the passenger seat, or does it attach to the same rails that the saddle bag sets on? The dammage can only be caused by some flexing someplace it shouldn't. Unless.... You should see what my wife tries to stuff in a saddle bag...10 pounds of $#@T in a 5 pound bag. I have to monitor that situation closely.
