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MasterGuns

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Everything posted by MasterGuns

  1. MasterGuns
    Finally, I am nearing the end of very long list of things that my fairly new to me 86 needed and that I wanted. From finding and fixing an oil leak to new pads, new tires, rebuilding the carbs, finding and repainting to match a few replacment body parts and numerous other things, starting yesterday I am finally on the road. But yesterday was really really hot. Temps were well over 105; my thermometer here at the house registered 108.7; but I rode anyway and two up at that. Went on about a 25 mile ride. Now to my concern. The Temp Guage was just a tad over 1/2 way and in stop and go traffic was 3/4 the way to the red and the fan was running more than it was off. Is this normal in these conditions or do I have another project in store for me? I will be heading up to the Intl Rally and I expect the temps to be well over 100 most of the time I am running in and through Texas. Should I pull the radiator and have it rebuilt? I changed coolant, am running Amsoil 20/50, carbs are right on. Did the needle mod installing three #4 washers and does this thing run strong. No leaks of any sorts. Looking for input here. Thanks to all.
  2. MasterGuns
    Sorry, I didn't read your entire post before shooting off my mouth. What I would do is first obtain a replacement SS and shorten it up like you outlined. I don't think I would modify my only SS.
  3. MasterGuns
    I use to have this perceived problem with my new to me 86; my 88 also use to have the same issue. That is until I installed progressive springs. Now the bike sits taller which increases the lean angle. Perhaps you need to add some air to both the front and back; that is unless you are a toe tipper already.
  4. MasterGuns
    Brian, Please don't send me anything. Heck it was only a few bucks and whats that amongst fellow 1st Editioners/Editionists, whatever.
  5. MasterGuns
    Brian, Absolutely, that is if he can wait for it. Let's ask him. The last time he posted he said he was going to look for his extra middle gear cover. Hey Jack, want Brian to send you the middle gear cover I sent him; the one that has the cosmetic portions removed?
  6. MasterGuns
    Jack, Three screws; tighten all three. These screws have a tendency to loosen on their own. So I recommend you remove them one at a time, spray some carb cleaner into the screw hole, then use a little locktight before replacing the screw. Thats what was recommended to me by Rocket up there in the Canada and I did it and so far so good. Attach your modified middle gear cover, add oil, grab a pillow and a couple beers and have a good long observation period. Kinda fun I thought.
  7. MasterGuns
    Jack, I had a very similiar oil leak with this 86. Would only leak after running for a while and would leak somewhere on top of the collector and stink to high heaven. Seached till I was blue in the face and to no avail. I removed the middle gear cover and cleaned the area in the abyss to check things out better. Still couldn't find the leak. I knew it had to be in there somewhere because the top of the motor was dry as a bone. So, since I had another old middle gear cover, using my dremel I cut the cover down so that while it was attached, I could observe what was going on in the abyss while the motor was running. I refer to the area behind the middle gear cover that contains the clutch slave, gear indicator switch, shift linkage, various seals, and the stator wires as the abyss. Finally, after running it for some time, I observed a very slight leak from behind the gear indicator switch that eventually dripped right down on top of the collector. Just like yours, it would only leak ever so slightly while running and for some time afterward the engine was shut off. Whoalah! Tore that puppy out of there and noticed it had a couple cracks in it as well. Replaced the switch and ran it again with the same cutaway middle gear cover and issue resolved. That was several weeks ago and still dry. This was my experience anyway and I hope you can use some of it. Also, since I did not like the design of the switch which is plastic and held in place by three screws drawing on the plastic, I designed a top cover out of some thin aluminum; sort of like a cover and used longer screws. That way I could really sinch it up tight without worrying about cracking the plastic due to overtightening. I should had taken pics but most of the time I am doing things like that, I one don't have time and think that most would think I am an idiot.
  8. MasterGuns
    If it were me, I think I would have no choice but to add another washer. I would be thinking it is running a bit on the lean side and that is what might be causing the hesitation. I think I would also have a looksee at the plugs as far as color. I am going to perform this mod this weekend but before I do, I am going to remove and replace the plugs. That way I will be able to compare a before and after of the most effective way of analysing lean versus rich conditions. I will, however, replace the plastic spacer with three washers. Good luck.
  9. MasterGuns
    H_ _ _, I'm at rest; like falling asleep at my desk at rest.
  10. MasterGuns
    Sure will!
  11. MasterGuns
    Randy, Did you check your plugs before this washer mod and compare them with how they are burning after the washer mod? I am just curious. I want to perform the same mod on my 86 and would like a little more details if possible. On mine, I am getting somewhere around 37 or so mpg and the plugs look a little rich so the sooner I get off my butt and do this thing the better.
  12. MasterGuns
    I intend to raise the front tire off the ground using a floor jack under the motor. This will allow full fork extension and no possibility of collapse.
  13. MasterGuns
    I will be "attempting" to install new progessives tomorrow. I have never done this job but it doesn't appear to be that difficult. I've thought that before about other mods I started and what should had been easy turned out to be much more involved than I initially thought. Been burnt many times. But still this seems to be a fairly straight forward job. So, I ask, once I remove the fork caps, otherthan the old springs, what else is removed and "not" reused? Also, in addition to the new springs and the PVC looking spacer, what else should I install and/or replace? I am building that "monster" tool as recommended by Condor; a piece of 17mm Hex key soldered in a 17mm 6 pt socket. Hopefully, all goes well.
  14. MasterGuns
    what can be done to lessen or better yet, eliminate the clunky up shifting of these Ventures. I, however, shouldn't assume all lst editions have clunky shifts. My last 88 was fairly smooth. I have brand new fluid in the clutch master and completely bled out all the air; lots of handle. Brand new 20/50 Yamalube oil. I know that isn't the best but I didn't want to put $12 Amsoil or something equivalent right away. I intend to put a few hundred miles on this dino before changing to a better oil. But sure seems like this oil would be conducive to smooth shifting. Any advise would be highly appreciated.
  15. MasterGuns
    Just put a new set of Elite IIs on my VR. I'm sorry but I like the RWLs. Both were manufactured this year and look real nice. Front MR90X18 and rear MU90X16.
  16. MasterGuns
    I have convinced myself of this. When I first brought home this 86 after it had been hibernating for an extended period of time, it ran like crap. Put new NGKs in and for a few minutes it ran somewhat better, but not a lot. Added a can of Seafoam and it seemed not to run better and as a matter of fact, after several attempts at "blowing it out" on the interstate it got progressively worse. So, resorted to pulling the carbs for a really good cleaning, inside and out. Replaced the carbs, synced the carbs several times, replaced the wires and caps. A tremendous amount of improvement but still missed, coughed, spurtered, etc, at idle. Well tonight I installed another set of NGKs and bingo, doesn't miss a beat, at idle, cold/hot, and throughout the entire rpm range. My conclusion, Seafoam damaged plugs. I am convinced of that anyway. Thanks to another thread I read today, I'd had never thought that the plugs were bad, heck they only had about 200 miles on them. Some might say I purchased a faulty plug or two but what's the chance of that?
  17. MasterGuns
    Yes, I did ride a bike to work today; 57 miles one way. But I rode the 03 Ultra Classic today. My 86 Yamaha Venture Royale is just too clean to get dirty. So was the Hardley but I rather muck it up than the Royale. Shirt and tie even; suit coat rolled up in the trunk.
  18. MasterGuns
    I just read with intense interest another thread about one member soliciting opinions from others about their analysis of a couple of his spark plugs. IMHO the two (?) plugs he pictured appeared quite normal to me. But during the course of that thread one member mentions (screen name slips my memory at the moment) injecting Seafoam directly into the vacuum tube on the intake. Then he states that after this treatment replacing the plugs is highly recommended. That leads me to my question. When treating suspected gunked up carbs after a scoot has set dormant for a long period of time, in other words using a high concentration of Seafoam, can this treatment be the cause of permanent sparkplug damage? I have read here that some may dump as much as a full can and even more into a full tank of gas. That seems like quite a lot to me. Others have even written they've applied 100% Seafoam into the carbs while running. I am just curious if an overuse or high concentration can be cause for damaging sparkplugs. I've used the stuff only once on my current VR because the carbs were in fact clogged somewhere and the Seafoam did absolutely nothing. I therefore removed the carb bank, dissassembled all four and had them vatted; reassembled and, whoalah; perfect. But I did not drain and replace the gas that had the high concentration of Seafoam. But I still get a slight miss, pop, cough (however we all may describe these things) at idle. I replaced all the wires and caps and the doggone thing still pops, misses, etc at idle. The carbs are a synced as close as I can get them with my Carbtune. I am now wondering if the application of Seafoam may have permanently fouled or damaged one of the plugs. Any thoughts? Oh yeah, no vacuum leaks anywhere; checked till I was blue in the face. Thanks Herb
  19. MasterGuns
    Joe, I won't be picky about the color but would prefer the maroon set. If you are willing to let the go let me know and I gladly purchase them. PM me or post your reply. I really appreciate your help here. Semper Fi Herb
  20. MasterGuns
    drivers bags for a 1st Edition. You know, the leather pouches that attach just in front of the driver's knees. I had them off while performing some mods and my daughters new Golden Retriever puppy got to them. Now the bags are scattered out in various locations throughout the property. Darn. I will pay dearly.
  21. MasterGuns
    So, how does one register?
  22. MasterGuns
    Why are 86 rotors hard to come by? Are the rotors for an 86 different than other years? But never the less, I need a rear rotor also for an 86. Anyone have one and willing to part with it for $$$, let me know your price. Thanks
  23. MasterGuns
    Never thought of that; think I'll go look.
  24. MasterGuns
    Got it fixed. The problem was "none of the above". By replacing both the spark plugs and wires, all the popping and chuffing I was experiencing has been resolved. And run; runs like a scalded dog. After sitting for 13 years she is finally back up and running strong; all oil leaks fixed (neutral switch, clutch shaft seal, both stator cover gromets and both valve covers gaskets), and of course the usual disassembly and vatting of the carbs. I also changed all the fluids, new battery, replaced the CMS, air cleaner (K&N), all the brake pads. All that is left is replace the tires and take her in for a valve adjustment. Thank you to everyone whose advise was given and well received. The last thing I would like to ask advise on is that whenever I turn her off after operating at normal temp, I can hear the coolant bubbling up into the recovery bottle. This is the 7th lst edition I have owned and none of the others did this. Could it be because the PO removed the thermostat, or the PO to him? What would be the symptoms of no thermostat? I have never run a bike without the thermostat so I really don't what would happen. It is a lot of work to go through just to see if it has been removed; so, if anyone can shed any light on this topic, please do. Thanks
  25. MasterGuns
    Ok, I have completely gone through the carbs, everything is clean and unobstructed. Even installed new diaphragms. Sync is about as close as I can get it using a carbtune. New plugs even. Yet at idle I am still getting an occassional popping or chuffing (whatever) and if hit hard from idle, it doesn't rev immediately; sort of wants to stammer then rev. What am I missing here? Any advise would be most helpful.
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