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MasterGuns

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Everything posted by MasterGuns

  1. MasterGuns
    My money is on a vacuum leak. The best way I've found to find a vacuum leak is to use a can of starting fluid (ether). With the bike idling, start spraying a little around areas that might be suspect. Where the rubber manifold bolts (mates) to the head is one. Another is where the carbs sit in the manifolds. If you spray the ether even close to a vacuum leak, the ether will be sucked in and the idle will get noticeably higher. I recently had the same problem but from what you describe; not as bad. Anyway, give it a shot. Never know until you check.
  2. MasterGuns
    Lynn, Thanks so much for the info. Is the first picture the only part I will need and are the pins seperate? I just need to be sure what I order from Y. I think the part number is 4NK-18185-00-00.
  3. MasterGuns
    Ok, I have posted about this problem before and got some recommendations from adjusting the shift linkage to the type of shoes I'm wearing (??). Well, I have adjusted the linkage every which way possible with no improvement in the bad up-shifting. I've had a number of 1st Editions(6) and never had one like this. There has got to be something else causing the hard upshifting. I've just got in a complete clutch rebuild kit from Buckeye and am prepared to install new friction plates, new diaphram spring, etc., but I don't think that will help either. I am now thinking I may have a dowel pin problem (loose and/or just not fitting properly) in the shift cam. Does anyone think replacing part 6 and 8 in the microfiche will help? Just in case it comes up....rebuilt the m/c, installed new slave and no air in the line.
  4. MasterGuns
    Yammer Dan and Marcarl, Both. The carbs were entirely disassembled, vatted then reassembled with a couple parts needing replaced; two air cut off valves. All gaskets and o-rings are new. Job performed by a very good mechanic that has years and years of Yamaha experience. The carbs were just too gummed up for seafoam to correct. Anyway, totally cleaned inside and out; look new. And snyced using my CarbTune. As Marcarl suggested, I, too, thought about opening each idle screw about a 1/2 turn but had a couple beers instead and hit the sack. I will get to your suggestion either tonight or tomorrow morning and advise the results. Even though my old diaphragms appeared serviceable (no holes) she runs much, much better with the new slides/diaphragms. Guess the old ones were not as pliable; too stiff or something.
  5. MasterGuns
    Idle is at 1100.
  6. MasterGuns
    Ever since purchasing this 86 VR in April, I have been chasing an acceleration hesitation problem. Only hesitates when engine is at idle and the throttle is cracked open. The motor does not respond and hesitates and may even die. I have been completely through the carbs, including new sliders and diaphragms. No vacuum leaks at alll anymore. Is this a symptom of running too lean or too rich? Everything else is fine, compression is great, plugs are new, well fairly new, new wires, boost sensor is operational, no problems with the vacuum line to the boost sensor. Valve adjustment is right on. What am I missing? I think is still a carburetion issue but can't pin it down. Any thoughts?
  7. MasterGuns
    I rode five of the seven routes, four of them alone and had a blast. Some of the greatest ridin roads I've been on in a very long time. Looking forward to the Texas Hill Country this weekend, which are also some awesome roads.
  8. MasterGuns
    Jack, If you recall my post early last month concerning my finding a vacuum leak, what I didn't mention in that post was a symptom exactly as you describe. The carbs would sync out perfectly at idle, but when increasing the r's to 2500 or so the left bank would show far less vacuum than the right. Using a can of ether, I found a significant vacuum leak where the rubber manifold of #2 mated with the head. That leak was caused by a stripped bolt. After fixing the stripped bolt and resyning the carbs, my carbtune readings were almost perfect at all r's read. JFYI.
  9. MasterGuns
    Dan, I guess that once the air box fills with .3 quarts of oil, I won't have to drain any off. I am going to put this thing on the center stand asap and using a syringe, suck oil from the crank case until the level drops to center of the sight glass. Been adding four quarts for decades and to many different 1st editions, and never had this problem. We'll see. Thanks so much
  10. MasterGuns
    I read a couple replies on this thread stating that oil in the air box is related to too much oil in the crankcase. So, I am really curious about how much oil should be added to an entirely drained crankcase. I have always drained the oil by removing the drain plug, removing the bottom most allen on the middle gear cover and allowing each to drain until it stops dripping. I also allow what oil will drain when the filter is removed. At times I have let it sit there for thirty minutes or so with both plugs and the filter removed. Then I install all the plugs and a new oil filter and add FOUR quarts. Is FOUR quarts too much? I have been adding four quarts to these 1st editions since 1986 and can't believe I have been adding too much oil for 23 years. Please tell me this isn't so.
  11. MasterGuns
    George, Thanks for the reply but you've got me wondering exactly what you've done to correct oil being sucked up into the airbox. Not sure that is my problem but most likely it is. If you wouldn't mind please PM me with the specifics on what you did. Appears I must do the same. Thanks
  12. MasterGuns
    Was installing new diaphragms/sliders tonight. When I pulled #2, there was so much oil inside the cover that it even dripped out when I removed the final allen head. That was the only one like that. What in the world could cause excessive oil build up in the diaphragm. There is a minimal amount of oil that had accumulated in the airbox being brought up through the crankcase vent but nothing alarming. Even if oil we to accumulate in excess in the airbox, I doubt it could find its way to the diaphragm. It was running fairly well before and since I have had four new sliders/diaphragms I figured I go ahead and get them installed. Any ideas about the oil? Thanks all!
  13. MasterGuns
    Isnt' all insurance in Canadian government run? And isn't that why premiums are so high.
  14. MasterGuns
    I wasn't on my RSV because I was on my lst Edition looking for a gullible RSV to embarrass
  15. MasterGuns
    Man oh man, if I quickly sell my HD Ultra, I would gladly take possession of this lst Edition. Whatever the issues, I would gladly take care of to own another 1st with such low mileage. Anyone interested in an Ultra Classic?
  16. MasterGuns
    After reading this thread, I am curious about what Nateo wrote, i.e, one slide with much more activity than the other three. Would the one slide with more movement be indicative of a problem or are the three slides with lessor movement the problem? I know all four should show about the same movement but when one is more than the other three, where does one look?
  17. MasterGuns
    I think I'll ready another post. Hows that?
  18. MasterGuns
    Just this evening I discovered that the problem I have had with hard shifting is due to defective linkage. The adjustment arm had been strippped and simply glued into the threaded part and of course it is out of adjustment. Of course, the PO failed to mention this as well. So, now I am on a hunt for the shift linkage for a 1st edition. If anyone has this linkage assembly and is willing to part with it, please either post your cost or IM me with the amount. I can pay however you want. Looked on flea bay but nothing there.
  19. MasterGuns
    Ok guys, I will check this alignment tonight. But Randya, you mention "shafts" (plural). Otherthan the shaft protruding though the stator cover what other "shaft" are you referring to? Herb
  20. MasterGuns
    Nope and this past Sunday (Mobil One Synthetic 20/50). Has got be mechanical. Any ideas?
  21. MasterGuns
    Yep, that was the problem. The m/c push rod was installed backwards and was not allowing the plunger to fully retreat which caused the clutch to not fully disengage. Oh well, live and learn. Now with a fully functioning m/c, and a brand new slave, once this bike warms up, I still do not have very smooth shifting up through the gears. Down shifting is very smooth. By the process of elimination, the only item left is the clutch itself. I have new friction plates and a new diaphram spring coming in from Buckeye. Once I get the clutch rebuilt, I will not know where to go from there if I still have hard noisy upshifts. Any ideas at this point?
  22. MasterGuns
    am, I just went out and rechecked my reassembly of what I did remove from the m/c and I had the push rod in backwards. Turned it around and bingo, play in the lever and I am sure it was that causing the clutch to not fully disengage. I am about to ride this thing and I bet the clutch slipping has been resolved. BRB
  23. MasterGuns
    I am again seeking some advise and/or help. As I posted earlier, I changed out my clutch slave this past weekend and wanted to rebuild the clutch m/c. However, since I didn't have the proper circlip removal tool (o-ring pliers), I had to wait on that. But since I had a drained system from replacing the slave and since I wanted to ride, I went ahead and added DOT-3, bleed the system using a miti-vac. When I did ride, my clutch started slipping just after riding for a few minutes. Prior to me wrenching on it as described above my clutch didn't slip. I used Mobil V-Twin synthetic which won't harm the clutch. So I just rode home and waiting until today to check things out. Just got home and checked it out and here is what I think is going on. I think the clutch is not being allowed to fully disengage and the culprit is the master cylinder. There is absolutely no play in the clutch lever. Does anyone know what may be causing this?
  24. MasterGuns
    Hey Curtis, This is outstanding news. I know how great the feeling is because I too am a cancer survivor. And, ever since leaving The Hub, I have been waiting for you to post about anything so I would have the opportunity to say it was really great riding with ya. I had a blast as riding is not only about the scenery through which you ride or what you are ride but who you ride with. Thanks so much and congratulation on this news. Looking forward to seeing you again. Oh, and nice bike. Herb
  25. MasterGuns
    The past weekend I wanted to replace the clutch slave cylinder and rebuild the clutch master cylinder. Even though I thought replacing the slave would be the most difficult, that went pretty smoothly and only took about 1 hour. I may have been lucky. So then I started with the master cylinder. HOW DO YOU REMOVE THAT DOGGONE LOCK RING? I then cut grass for the rest of the day. Thanks
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