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MasterGuns

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Everything posted by MasterGuns

  1. MasterGuns
    Just because it is brighter doesn't mean the direction of the beam will change. On low beam it shouldn't hinder anyones ability to see and should only improve mine. And with on-coming traffic, it will not be on high. Thanks for the info/and do as you wish.
  2. MasterGuns
    Has anyone installed an Osram, or equivalent, H4 80/100 watt bulb in their 1st or 2nd edition yamaha? Just curious if anyone has and if they had any issues. I installed one in my Harley Davidson Ultra and wow, what a great bulb. Very noticeably out performs the popular Silverstar everyone is raving about. However, these 80/100's are marked "Off-Road Only", but......
  3. MasterGuns
    About six months ago as I was leaving one of the local Yamaha dealers, a middle age fella had just pulled in and parked his bike. As he was getting off, I noticed he was removing a crutch from some improvised brackets on which it attached. Low and behold, he was missing his left leg. I tried not to stare but couldn't help myself. What I was trying to see was the shifter. I was really curious as to how he shifted the thing. On the way home I started thinking about how he stopped and had to be really concerned with which way (left or right) the bike leaned. He had to always ensure the bike leaned to the right. I am really surpised the state would allow him to operate a bike but GOD bless the dude, he has my admiration.
  4. MasterGuns
    I just completely removed and disassembled all four carbs to have the entire lot vatted. Reassembled with good used diaphragms. Before doing all this the engine ran very, very poorly with a lot of backfiring, chuffing and surging. But after sitting for supposedly 13 years (as the PO stated and that can always be disputed), one can't expect top engine performance. But now that the carbs are in perfect shape and synced as close as I can get them, the bike runs like a charm; quiet with lots of power. However, when cold, it has an occassional pop and chuff. I believe this is normal for a 23 year old machine. But who knows, once I replace the plug wires, run it on the roads for a while and then re-sync the carbs, it may not then miss a beat. What you have provided is how the bike ran before the work on the carbs.
  5. MasterGuns
    can you describe "poorly"?
  6. MasterGuns
    Can't believe this happened but last night as I was pulling off the carbs, I attempted to sit my butt down on an empty 5 gal pail I use when working on bikes, and I missed. I could not avoid my falling backwards. All I could do was brace myself for the hit on the concrete floor. But when I landed on my back, I also landed on the lower left fairing piece that I had sitting nearby and it shattered into several pieces. Lesson learned; pay more attention when sitting on something used for working on the bike, or, move all items far enough away from the bike so you don't land on them if you do fall. Now then, does anyone have a lower left fairing for a 1st edition; any color? I've looked on E-Scam and none are listed. I will pay whatever. Thanks all. MasterGuns
  7. MasterGuns
    GeorgeS, I have tried Sea Foam without success. I have resigned myself that today after work, I will pull those rascals off and have them vatted by a very reliable shop in Hurst, Texas. They did a set awhile back for an 83 I use to have and sold to my brother in law, and that bike is still running like the day it was made.
  8. MasterGuns
    Thanks Randya, Now for the 64K question. I suppose one has to completely remove the carb bank to get to the pilots. Is that right?
  9. MasterGuns
    I'm having a problem with the 86 I just picked up that was in storage for a pretty long time. I have it idling just fine but whenever I increase the rpms to lets say 2000 it just pops and sputters. But if I give it full throttle, it seems to rev to higher r's without missing a beat. There are three circuits: 1) low speed circuit (idle) controlled by the idle mixture screws 2) mid range circuit - controlled by the pilots jets 3) high speed circuit - controlled by the main jets Would any agree or disagree that I most likely am dealing with clogged or partially clogged pilots? Thanks
  10. MasterGuns
    Let's see if I understand carbs, especially those on the lst edition. I am having a problem with my scoot popping, coughing, missing, from just above idle, lets say 2000 rpm. But If I open her up, she doesn't runs fine. So, let see if I have this straight; there are three circuits; 1) idle - controlled by the air mixture needles 2) mid range circuit - controlled by the pilot jets and 3) high speed circuit controlled by the main jets. Is this correct? If so, correct me if I'm out in left field, I most likely have a problem with clogged or partially clogged pilots. Thanks Masterguns
  11. MasterGuns
    I use a Fram, and don't quote me on the part number; DG3614, and no problems at all. Have had the Rivco spin on filter adapter for two different VR'w now, and I haven't had the problem you are describing. Seems to me, if not running and parked, if not properly seated, the oil filter couldn't leak that much oil. Sure you don't have another problem?
  12. MasterGuns
    Since I seem to change bikes so often better count me in for at least a couple. Thanks
  13. MasterGuns
    Just pulled two of the four carb sliders/diaphrams and each had three or four tiny pin holes and I suppose need replaced. My question is, I have a second set of carbs with unknown issues and want to ask if the entire diaphram assembly can be exchanged from one set of carbs to another? Looking at things and considering all things, I don't see why not. However, I don't consider myself an expert on things of this nature and just want to ask those that are. Second question is, I just had the Carbtune hooked up and all four carbs showed really low on the tubes. All seemed to be even but just way, way low. I tried turning the idle up but no improvement. What is this indicating and what must I do to raise them. I thought I know how to sync carbs but I guess I don't. Thanks
  14. MasterGuns
    So that's where my ex is now! Always thought she'd look good hideing in the top of a tree.
  15. MasterGuns
    Here is my dilemma. When I removed the slave cylinder the rubber item you see illustrated as "C" was installed. As you can tell by the way it is warped and too large to be the proper seal I can onlyl assume it was wrongly installed by the PO. So, I ordered the factory "Push Lever Seal Kit" from mother Yamaha and it finally arrived today. But rather than being a one piece seal, it is two very different seals. Now I am trying to figure out just how this two piece seal kit is suppose to be installed on the slave. The two piece seal is both A and B as shown. "B" appears to fit perfectly as shown in pics 5 - 9, but for the life of me, I simply cannot figure out what to do with seal "A". Does anyone have the knowledge if both seals are suppose to be used or just Item "B"? I have tried to provide goods pics and hope they are suitable. I look forward to any assistance provided. Forgot to mention, this is for a MKII 1st Edition.
  16. MasterGuns
    Well, this is a surprising post as I have been informed by several other members that if the battery sensor lead is connected directly to 12 Volt, it will surely burn out the IC chip that controls the Battery Warning Light on the CMS display. But after what you just described the mechanic did, I don't believe what I have been informed is accurate. Are you sure the lead was connected directly to the battery? Before I spend more $ buying another replacement CMS (on Ebay of course; not from the dealer for 800.00 smackers), please tell me this isn't true. If you disconnected the battery sensor lead from the + post of the battery, a reconnected it using the factory sensor probe AND your battery light does not come on, I would have to say all is good. However, I would also disconnect the sensor lead where it plugs it at the male/female connector and if the Battery Warning Light then comes on, that would be proof to me nothing got burned out and the battery warning system is still functional.
  17. MasterGuns
    Been a while since I disassembled the choke handle, but for some reason I seem to remember something in there that looked like that. Could be wrong but.....
  18. MasterGuns
    jb, are you saying that you also have the chip? I would love to send at least the CMS I have out. If you don't have that particular chip, where can a fellow find one? I called Radio Shack as recommended by someone here and they was no help at all. No help with the cb knob either. Come back!!
  19. MasterGuns
    Down here in and around the Dallas/Ft Worth metroplex, I must appear really young when riding my bike, everyone is showing me how old I am. I always reciprocate. Lots of nice folks around here.
  20. MasterGuns
    This replacement CMS has not been hooked up to 12v just the old one but from what I can tell it never worked anyway. What happens when the IC chip is fried? Does the Battery Light still flash? Whatelse is affected by a fried IC chip? How can one tell if the IC chip is fried; by looking at it? I would be interested since I have the old CMS out and it would be easy to check. What is the ultimate cure for this annoying flashing battery light? Can it be disconnected somehow to deactivate it; otherthan the duct tape thing?
  21. MasterGuns
    I have even tried connecting the Battery Light circuit direct to the battery and providing it the full 12 volts. Still on. And yes the 6.24 volts is making it all the way to the CMS. That is why I thought the CMS was bad are replaced it. Still on whether it is getting 6.24 volts (which is what the resistor allows through) or 12 volts. I simply don't understand. Perhaps there is more to it that just providing voltage to the CMS. Can someone check the amount of voltage being sent to their Battery Light circuit. That is the amount of voltage on the light side of the resistor. With a resistor needed in between the battery and the CMS, I am starting to think that even 6.24 is too "much" and confusing this 23 year old.
  22. MasterGuns
    OK, I have read a few threads here about that doggone battery light that wont go off. I have one. and have followed the recommended fixes to the tee. Even purchased the 2.2 and 1k resistors and tried fooling the light to go off. No deal. I am just about to resort to the duct tape fix like some have recommend but thought I give it one last shot by soliciting guidance here. The battery is good and tests at 12.45 volts even after sitting for some time. But just to be sure while trying to diagnose this thing tonight I had a battery tender on it and it had gone up to 12.55. Anyway, it does have a battery sensor attached between cells 3 and 4. There is a resistor in-line just after the sensor. Voltage just after the sensor is 6.24 volts. Voltage at the plug is 6.24v where it connects into the white with red stripe wire. I had even followed the white/red wire to the connector on the back of the CMS at the rear of the instrument panel - voltage 6.24v. Therefore, I thought the CMS had gone bad. I had a replacement and tonight I swapped them out. Result - Battery Light still flashing. What the heck! Any ideas here from those that perhaps have been confronted with this problem. I am all ears or in this case; eyes.
  23. MasterGuns
    I had the same issue on my 88 and someone advised me to sync the carbs. Low and behold; it worked. Weird but true.
  24. MasterGuns
    I knew there would be at least one. LMAO really,
  25. MasterGuns
    Does anyone have an extra knob that fits the CB radio on a lst Edition? I am missing one and would gladly pay someone for whatever it may be worth to them (PayPal). I probably could find a replacement at an electronics place, but I doubt it would match. T Thanks
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