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MasterGuns

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Everything posted by MasterGuns

  1. MasterGuns
    Ok, I am very slowly eliminating operations that could have a detrimental effect on shifting. I am now interested in the amount of free play of the clutch lever. From dead center of the ball at full extension, can anyone tell me the amount of free play their clutch lever has? I measured this one and it measures precisely at 1/2 inch. I simply don't know if that is good or bad. Oh yeah this bike is a 1st Edition, 86. All should be the same; 83 - 93 (Clutch lever free play, that is). Thanks in advance
  2. MasterGuns
    George, The slave is new and the m/c rebuilt. Just want to replace the m/c to see if things improve.
  3. MasterGuns
    By golly, that is a great idea. I'll put that darn thing on order tomorrow. Thanks
  4. MasterGuns
    I have eliminated the clutch assembly of my 86 VR as being the culprit for the bad, noisy, clunking shifting. I have also eliminated the problem being the slave since that part is newly installed. I also rebuilt the master but I think I should replace the master just to see if the shifting improves. Therefore, I am asking if anyone has a serviceable clutch master cylinder that you are willing to part with. If so, please let me know your price and I'll send anyway you desire; cash, PayPal, check, money order. All the m/c's on Ebay didn't look good except one and that fella is really proud of it.
  5. MasterGuns
    Squeeze, I just pulled the clutch assembly apart again to check the steel plates placement; sharp edge all pointing the same way. The steel plates were all mixed up; sharp edges not all the same way. So when I reinstalled them all with the sharp edge towards the motor because I didn't know any better. After reinstalling, I ran the motor in first gear while on the center stand and still got an unusual amount of rear tire rotation with the tranny in first. So the creep is still there. I guess I'll have to tear it apart again and turn all the steel plates to the other side like you advise; sharp side away from the motor. Your other recommendation about the rectangular splines, can you please go over that part one more time? Thanks Squeeze.
  6. MasterGuns
    Well, there is a way to do this. The first ever VR I had was an 86 in 1987. At the time I was serving in the Marine Corps on Okinawa, Japan and in those days, your headlight had to be off when approaching any one of the mannned gates of a military base. Also all vehicles had to pass a Japanese Compulsory Inspection and when I picked up that bike after the mandatory JCI inspection, they had installed a push button switch on the left handle bar that did exactly what you are describing; shutting down the head light. Whenever I used it to turn the headlight off, it did so without any CMS activity. The problem is that I never checked out how they hooked that switch in. It was just a two wire affair. I, too, am interested in trying to figure this out again for the 86 I have now and for the 2d reason you described. The 55 or 60 watts but in my case 80 or a 100 watts sure would come in handy in a case where you was many miles from home and your charging system failed.
  7. MasterGuns
    Zig not zag. Whatever I would decide to do differently, it would be TOO LATE.
  8. MasterGuns
    Sheridan, Are you trying to run this thing without the airbox one, filter installed and the lid on and tight? This motors run like crap if you are running one with out the airbox installed. If you are, try installing the airbox, filter and the lid, and try it again.
  9. MasterGuns
    When you state "inner and outer" baskets, do you mean the "basket" and the "clutch boss"? Also what throws me off, is that once the basket is slipped over the splined shaft and fully seated, then the thrust washer is slid on the splines, the washer actually slides past the splines. It actually comes to rest on the shaft "past" the splines and in a groved portion of the shaft. This means is can move side to side because the groved area of the shaft is a much smaller width that the id of the washer. If this is the correct installation procedure, is surely looks like a very poor design to me. What do you think about this? Am I seeing things or am I doing something wrong? Perhaps I should try taking a couple pics of what I am trying to communicate. Thanks
  10. MasterGuns
    I think you are referring to the large 30mm nut that holds the basket in. I'll will check that out as soon as possible. Since the is a groove cut into one side of that nut, it may be designed for part of the boss to slide in that groove. You may have it on something here. Thanks
  11. MasterGuns
    All I can say at this point is that large thrust washer you are referring to sure seems to be in the wrong place. At least as shown in the parts list. Since the ID of this washer is splined, sure seems to me it is designed to be riding on splines when seated. According to the diagram it is not. Lonestarmedic is going to pull apart the clutch basket on his parts bike and let me know what he finds. Sooner or later someone with a lot of experience with these clutch assemblies guide me. Thanks
  12. MasterGuns
    Randy, Not sure which clutch rod you are referring to. If you are talking about the long clutch rod that goes from the slave to the clutch, we didn't pull that out. If you are referring to the small clutch rod that enters the pressure plate, that particular parts is impossible to install backwards. One end is smaller than the other and if install backwards the pressure plate wouldn't seat at all. But, I will check that out just in case because this thing has got me baffled.
  13. MasterGuns
    First off, I'd like to thank JB (Lonestarmedic) for riding all the way to Aledo from San Antone (300 miles) to help me checkout and replace if necessary the shift segment (the thingy with the six pins). After eating a steak and shooting the bull Friday evening we turned to Saturday morning. In order to check out the shift segment, we had to pull the entire clutch basket. Well, to both of our surprise the segment looked great and proceeded to reassemble the clutch. Since it was already apart, we installed new friction plates and a new spring, all OEM. Ran the bike while on the center stand and could hardly stop the back tire while idling in first gear. Fired up and rode the bike Saturday afternoon and at first the shifting seemed to improve but soon became even more difficult. In addition the bike now creeped while idling in gear. Disassembled it again to make absolutely sure all was correct. Everything looked ok. Reassembled everything again. While testing it on the centerstand and idling in first. The rear tire still spun and was difficult to stop. It was quite apparent the bike would still creep. If anyone can provide assistance, here are some questions: 1) The part identified as #2 (thrust washer) in the OEM illustration, appears to be placed on the shaft just "after" installing the basket. With the basket fully seated the thrust washer slides past all shaft splines and floats on the shaft just next to the clutch basket. This seems to be the way it was assembled before we tore it apart but the positioning of this thrust washer just doesn't seem correct. Any comments and/or advise on if this is correct? The problem seems to be that even though the clutch basket is installed correctly, there isn't enough travel being provided for the clutch plates to be fully released when the clutch handle is pulled. The master cylinder has been recently rebuilt and the slave is brand new as well. There is no air in the lines either. What on earth can be the problem? Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. I hope someone out there is intimately familiar with the lst Edition clutch assembly and can guide me correctly. Thanks
  14. MasterGuns
    Chip, I just ordered a complete set of gear from Cozy Winters; jacket, pants, gloves and socks. I won't be using it 365 because I live and work in the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex and 90% of the cagers drive like idiots. If I rode everyday, I simply wouldn't last long. Everyday there is at least one biker accident, most days more than one. But it does get cold and I indend to use this heated gear a lot. Thanks for the reply.
  15. MasterGuns
    I am really serious about purchasing a full set of heated riding gear; jacket, pants, gloves and socks. I have reviewed several brands; some ridiculously costly and some reasonably priced. So, what sort of advise can members provide in terms of what they have and how they rate their gear. I am leaning towards "Warm Gear" sold by Cozy Winters. As far as what I've read, this "Warm Gear" is specially manufactured for motorcycles. Ok, let me have it.
  16. MasterGuns
    Is the Class control box operational? If so, what is your price?
  17. MasterGuns
    OMG, what an offer JB. All I can say is that if you are willin, I'd love to have you up to "take charge" of this shifter cam install. I've never been in there and don't have the experience. You have a home away from home, too; extra bedroom if needed and if you prefer your privacy, you could even stay in the motorhome. I even would love to pick all and I mean all, your expenses for the trip up. Let me know. I would also like to ride some of the way back with ya. Thanks so much.
  18. MasterGuns
    Gettin old is h@
  19. MasterGuns
    Rick, No big deal as my plan for replacing the shift cam on the 19th got delayed. I had emergency surgery on Wednesday the 16th and am out of commission for the time being; doctors orders (perhaps 10 days). All I know, at this point anyway, is I have to install these shift cam parts before I head out to the Texas Meet (Big Bend) ride. Keep in touch.
  20. MasterGuns
    I think you'll need the engine guards from a MK II. Only the MKII engine guards have the mounts attached.
  21. MasterGuns
    May as well. It is an item that wears and they are only 99 cents apiece.
  22. MasterGuns
    Hey, the parts are only about 40.00. I spent 59.00 but purchased stuff I won't need. If you get the parts, heck, ride over to my place and we'll do them at the same time. Two heads are always better than one. I have all the tools and even the 5 - 20 lb torque wrench. I will most likely tear into mine the weekend of the 19th; that Saturday morning; with or without ya.
  23. MasterGuns
    Pegscraper, By golly, thanks for the great info. You have me convinced I can do this. Anyway, I wanted to ask you if you were experiencing clunky shifting like me and had gone throught the normal procedures trying to obtain smoother shifting. Like, checking your mastercylinder, bleeding the line, trying different linkage adjustments and maybe even considered replacing or rebuilding the slave. And once you replaced the shift cam (pin thingy), did you shifting improve? I am also replacing the clutch friction plates, the spring. Hope all the helps. Thanks again for the outstanding advise.
  24. MasterGuns
    I've had every type and viscosity of oil imaginable. From Amsoils, a synthetic, to Yamalube, Mobil One V-Twin, and others. Same hard upshifting. Simply can't be the oil because sometimes it will shift like butter and next time, shifts like feces.
  25. MasterGuns
    Here are the part numbers: (1) shift segment - 4NK-18185-00-00 (1) long pin - 93604-16092-00 (5) short pins - 93604-12037-00 end quote Pegscraper, I have no experience with this area and want to be sure what to expect once I am. And you seem to know exactly what you are talking about, so a couple questions please. 1) Will it be obvious where the longer dowel pin goes? 2) I ordered the star washer but one for a 2d edition, however, I think that piece should not be used in a 1st Edition as it appears to be slightly different 5 points versus 6. Is that correct? 3) Do the shift arms have to be removed first in order to access and remove the shift cam and pins? Darn, I wish there was a write-up on this part replacement on this site. Oh well.....
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