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lonestarmedic

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Everything posted by lonestarmedic

  1. lonestarmedic
    Hi Ron- Glad to see you back. But, yer still an ugly cranky old firefighter!! JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    Mark- I agree with the straight pipe. I really didn't question why he went that route. Most sport bikes seem to run better with a bit of restriction. Especially on the low and mid-range area. I bet the straight pipe runs a bit lean on the top end and even a bit rich on the bottom. That straight pipe won't help the exhaust scavenging at low RPM. My experience on sport bikes has been that they are pretty well tuned for the street from the factory. If you change air in, air out, and jetting you can get a few HP. However, the louder it is doesn't mean the faster it is:hihi:. And on my old KZ900, I lost some of the driveability when I went to a Kerker 4-1 and started messing with the air and fuel. Heck on wheels from 5000 rpm and up. It really hated around town. Loaded up and ran rich, throttle wasn't as smooth, and took more fiddling than riding. However, at 19 that Kerker and the Super Trapp sure would howl!! JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    The usual thought on rejetting is air in versus air out. The straight pipes change the air out. Did it change the air in? Or, did he put on a different air filter system? If so, he probably does need to rejet. Best way is to put in a fresh set of spark plugs and then read the plug color. White looking - too hot from too lean. Dark brown or blackish - too cold and too rich. Nice buckskin tan - leave it alone!! Most bikes don't really require a rejet if only the exhaust muffler was changed. Now, if it is an exhaust system, it probably changed the airflow towards the wide open throttle. And maybe a bit at the lower RPM area. I use the plug method and an IR temp reader. You can get those at Norther Tool or Harbor Freight for $50.00 or less. I run the bike stock, then check the carbs and sync them. Then I will make 1 change at a time and compare. Please keep in mind that most modern bikes run a bit on the lean side to make the EPA happy. I know that the H-D will run a lot cooler and make more torque/hp with just fuel adjustments. They are set very lean from the factory. Also, air-cooled bikes are more prone to air/fuel changes and heat. Just my dis-jointed thought on the matter. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    I and my cousin will be up early for the annual blessing of the bikes on New Year's Day. I don't know if it is a tradition elswhere, but in San Antonio all the clubs and independent bikes get together and say a prayer for a safe upcoming year. Then the pastors come around and bless the bikes and riders. Now I just need to remember to never ride faster than my angel can fly!! JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    Don - Look at the converter programs. There are a bunch of different ones to move POIs from one format to another. That way you can use Tom-Tom, Magellan etc. CSV is comma separated values and may not be native for the Garmin. The converters also allow for moving columns of information so they display in the right area. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Along with the bar position, try putting some sort of throttle helper on. You might even try one of the cheaper ones on the left grip. If you rest the heel of your hand on them, you will not work the muscles as hard. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    There is a reason SkyDoc17, I and a few others have installed R1 brakes on our 1st Gens. So we can slow down and let those 2nd Gens catch up. Now, if you install those pick-up type camper mirrors, maybe you can adjust the pitch and stabilize that batwing fairing at highway speeds. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    If you haven't had any luck finding one yet give me a PM with your address and I will send one out on Tuesday. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    Need the guts or the whole cable? I have a junk 1986 out back that has a good assembly. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    Bill, Watch the little screws and hardware. I take my stuff like this apart on a clean bench with lots of light and a tray with a lid for hardware. The small pushbutton switches on the radio face can be purchased at a local electronics house. Watch the pins on the quick connect as they can be bent easily. Sent you a link for the cassette mod in the technical section. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    1) You had money to buy a ring and a wife to give it to. 2) Your loved ones thought highly of you and gave you something to pursue your hobby. 3) Your offspring has indeed managed to pay attention and be responsible enough to obtain a license. Big steps to becoming a member of society. The little problems associated with each action can be overcome. I rejoice over your true gifts of Christmas. May each and every one of us stop before the end of this day and think of what we have to celebrate. Now-back to our regularly scheduled banter. Merry Christmas to all, JB and MochaLady
  12. lonestarmedic
    Earl - I used the splitter of of a late 1980's V-Max. Cast tube with a double banjo on the right and a single on the left. I have a drill press and metric taps etc. If you want to send a blank, I can finish the rest. I was hoping to catch the washers before they left. I was thinking of a way to add the anti-dive wiring. I split mine and ran one down each brake line. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    That sure beats $12 plus $10 in shipping. I will type up the installation instructions for the washer. Glad I could help out. Some time if you are working on flat plate, I could use something to mount my brake line splitter on. I have the R1 stuff on and am quite pleased. Also have an R1 caliper on the bench for the rear next time I am back there. Appreciate the machining JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    AhA!!! The case of the missing offspring has been "quacked" Go Ahead-groan and hit me now! I couldn't resist. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    As I stated in my pm, there is over $2000.00 in accessories by e-Bay pricing. I would not take an $800.00 repair or a $2200.00 settlement. Price the broken parts at last known dollar value from Yamaha. Then take an average of parts over the last 30-45 days on e-Bay. Make sure to include shipping. Then go and deal with the insurance company. The damage you describe is not fatal. The bike looks to be worth well in excess of $3500.00. In fact, according to the State of Texas, my 1986 is worth that. I know because they used the value of the bike for sales tax, not the actual selling price!!!!!!! I think this practice may have changed but not last February. Hold fast and make them pay what it is worth. It was U-Haul's defective equipment that caused the damage. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    Gunny - I still have my 1986. When that two lunger gets to ya just ask and I'll let you run 4 cylinders of raw V-4 power so you can get your fix. Ya know Mocha can run! Congratulations on the new to you wheels. I am sorry to see the Maroon Lady go but such is life. Hope the next owner treasures her like you did. Drat the bad luck though. I wanted to try and out-chrome you this year! Sure won't happen with your new ride. If it is one thing a Harley has, it is accessories! Looking forward to seeing the new wheels. And, if you think you can get out of meets and eats by buying a different brand, sorry you still have to show up. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Snaggletooth- You need to meet up with Condor (Jack). He is very familiar with the 1st Gen ventures. He lives in or near Carmichael. Bribe him with Dairy Queen and BBQ! That combo works well with most folks on this list. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    On the 1986-1993 bikes there are 2 electrical solenoid valves on the front forks for ant-dive. These are activated by the brake light circuit. Sp, they run on either brake. My bike drops about 2 volts at idle when I activate the brake. You might start inspecting the electrical charging circuit if the solenoids are working correctly. I suspect your voltage is a bit low. These bikes like a good battery, very clean connections, and will show low voltage when loaded below 1500-2000 RPM. Others will list a lot of good information I am sure. Good luck and welcome. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    Look very close at that Dunlop Elite 3 on the front. Last time I checked (in Sept of this year) Dunlop did not make an Elite 3 for the front of a 1st Generation. I hunted and even called Dunlop. The size is listed but they stated that there was NO production of that tire. So, you either have a unique tire, the incorrect size on the front, or possibly a rear tire mounted on the front. Hopefully others here can verify these facts for you. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    Well, last night Mochalady was throwing snowballs at work. Snow stuck to the tops of the vehicles. This morning it was about 35 when I put the kickstand up and headed to work. It is a lot colder north of San Antonio. A couple degrees colder and even I would have used the truck. Don't like ice patches too well. It will be about 50 by late afternoon. Probably about 45 whe I go home. Tonight it is predicted to drop to freezing. Up where Brian is it gets nasty. Not much snow but a lot of ice type frozen slush. Keep warm y'all - spring will be here sooner or later. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    Do not part out the bike if it is in good shape. Someone will be able to help you. If the plastic is nice and the bags are good the electrical CAN be fixed. It sounds like a short circuit to a component as opposed to a bad part. Wish it was down here in Texas. I have an entire 1986 parts bike with spark. Don't give up. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    After thinking about it for a few days, I guess I will chip in my opinion. 1) I feel that heat blued plates should be replaced. Any time steel is heated like this I believe the temper and hardness changes. Also, I would look with a magnifying glass and check for cracks and galling. 2) Age is not a friend to most clutch materials. I found a lot of deterioration on my 1986 clutch pack in between the contact surfaces (oil grooves) 3) Age is not a friend to springs that sit under pressure. Coil and diaphragm both will take a set and lose strength. 4) Being at the mercy of a dealer or a parts supplier in the middle of vacation miles from home is not fun. 5) Pulling a trailer and 2 up puts an extra strain on the driveline and components will wear faster and need to be of high quality and more durable than stock. So with these observations I suggest new plates and frictions. Also I would upgrade the pressure spring to the PCW unit. It offers a higher clamp force that won't wear out your clutch hand. The double spring trick works well but offers a high pull effort and very little clearance for slippages at a stop. I have used it years ago when racing but don't personally like it for the street. Also, remember the increased force in the clutch assembly will translate into higher pressures for the clutch hydraulics. Possible master or slave problems and rebuilding might be needed. Well, that is my long-winded ideas on the subject. We can discuss oils in another thread. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    Jim, I find PayPal to be pretty safe. It keeps most of your information from getting out. I suggestyou have a checking account that is hooked to a Visa debit card. This is for paypal funding. Transfer money into it based on the need. So, if someone gets your account information, they will not get your main funds. I have had several good experiences with PayPal. They have gotten my money back for a bad transaction twice. The only problem with them is the way that money gets "hung up". It sometimes takes a while for funds to move. Especially refunds. I cancelled a transaction once and it took almost 2 weeks to get the money back to my bank. PayPal waits and verifies every move the money makes in that case. However, hit a payment button and the money goes goodby in 3 miliseconds! I have used them for about 7-8 years now. JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    Actually not a bad idea. The title can be held by one person. As far as I can tell, I can use my present motorcycle insurance policy to cover a bike owned by someone else. I just have to give them the serial number and possibly a letter from the owner giving me permission to operate the bike. I checked on this a while back as a matter of curiosity when I went to do a test ride on a bike. I wanted to see if my insurance would cover the test ride. Putting a 1st Gen together wouldn't be too hard or expensive. Squidley has the driving light brackets in his garage! I would be up for this project. JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    I believe that Blue Mountain SportMax carries the Delrin bushings for about $85.00 a set. GigaWhiskey put the metal mounts on his 1985 and swears by them. I can agree that 20+ year old rubber will become soft. Brake hoses, mounts, grommets, and covers are all suceptible. I will be investigating the mounts about January when I check the swing arm area. I think problems with the pivot points in the rear may cause a greater handling problem than the motor mounts. I would suspect that the mounts stiffen the bike frame and then mask the suspension problems. Most of the time, motor mounts are replaced to tighten up torque transfer and to make the resultant frame twist more predictable and manageable. Of course that is my opinion:whistling: and we all know how those can go! JB
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