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lonestarmedic

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  1. lonestarmedic
    Thanks Tom and JBurrell, I am open to a lot of options. This post is simply to trigger the thoughts towards a destination area. I picked Fredricksburg because of the large amount of places to eat and shop. Also, if we happen to fill up a motel/campground there are a multitude of alternatives. I am also trying to keep an open mind as to the various rides. Three Sisters are an agressive 100 mile ride. We should have alternatives for other who might want gentler curves. For instance, 16 has a bunch of curves about as steep as the sisters. Then it levels out and other roads connect. I think we can accomodate most everyone from most any area. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    Of course you like it!!! Out the drive and right or left you have it made. I think between all of us around we could set up a weeks worth of rides and hardly repeat a road. Maggie and I started out on Blanco in San Antonio and spent all day running back roads. Including a bunch just to get to your place:stickpoke: Heck, just let folks run route 16 from S.A. into Fredricksburg for some fun. BBQ would be fun. I spotted 2 places with pavilions and big fire pits. Maggie wants to head up the BBQ crew. Says just make sure she has some of that PeacePipe Pale Ale from the brewery!! (Wonder how a brisket would be soaked in that stuff?) JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    Morning everyone! We just got back from a tour of the Fredricksburg area in the heart of hill country. How would everyone feel about having the Stampede there next fall? There are a couple great places to stay that offer RV, tent, and rooms in the same place. So far, the bookings are pretty open for the weekend of October 9-11. Earlier and we hit Octoberfest. Later we start running into the Luckenbach fall festival. Right now I can find rooms in the $50-$70 range and tent spots in the $10.00 area. I can guarantee great riding and food. Also a bunch of places to shop if one was so inclined. Maggie volunteered to bring the Expedition up for use as a shuttle bus if we pick here. It is about 2 hours from San Antonio by major road and about 3 or so by back roads. About 45min to an hour from the famed Three Sisters farm roads. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    I bought 3-4 issues and quit. All Milwaukee iron and some of the wild customes qualified as baggers because of the 2 lunchpails riveted on the rear. It is difficult to find a magazine that caters to our crowd. JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    When I was growing up, my dad referred to Coleman Lantern fuel as "white gas". There used to be a lot of catalytic type camping heaters designed to run this stuff. It is a very close derivative of unleaded gas without the additives. Don't think I would use unleaded though!! I have repaired torpedo heaters for years. Used to do it for the farm store I worked at. Most of them are made by Koehring. Different outside shapes, same guts. We always suggested using clean kerosene. Typically sold as K-1. It stays thin longer in the cold and lights better. The nozzles in these heaters pull fuel up by creating a vaccum across a supply tube. (Atomizer effect) If you use heavier stuff, it might clog. Also K-1 has less contaminants and burns cleaner. I have an old 70,000 around just in case. It will probably get some use when we move out of town. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    If no-one has spoken up, I will buy them for a future project. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    How dare you celebrate the murder of helpless fowl!!! Then watch as groups of men kick and abuse the remains of bovines. I bet you even eat the guts out of gourds and the femented remains of grain that could feed millions. So there!!!!!! Anyway, happy and safe non-discriminatory celebration of the fall harvest and friendship between humans. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    I just plopped my rear on one of these items last weekend. At first glance it is very attractive. I sat down on the seat and put a foot up on the boards. Felt like my knee was in my chest. The chrome is thin plastic and it rattles and moves. The lowers are so paper thin that they flex when pushed on by an index finger. The sales man is asked me not to do it again because I might break it!!!!!!!!!!!! I got off and opened the side hinge trunk. When it hit the end of the cheap cable stop the whole thing flexed and wobbled because the ABS is thin. I thought it was going to fall off. Side bags are the same. Mamma took one look at the passenger's seat and said no way in H@#$. It is half the width of an RSV and looks to be about a foot from front to rear. We watched a guy and his size 0 wife (105 lbs.) get on and she looked like she was riding his back. I think Kaw had a great idea but slapped a bunch of cheap parts on a nice Vulcan. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    If you check the website, it states that all warranties end on 12/31/2008. I seem to remember that they are going out of business in some way. The warranty statement is right on the main page www.widder.com JB
  10. lonestarmedic

    Chaps

    lonestarmedic replied to BradT's topic in Watering Hole

    1) make sure they fit with whatever you normally have on 2) get good zippers and snaps. Velcro is not good when dirty or wet 3) think about a stretch area at the thigh for adjustment 4) Remember chaps are an additional layer You need to wear something underneath:yikes:. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    Oil level in forks can contribute to a wobble. With our forks where the left is tied to the right for air it is not as bad. On a regular set of forks it can be very exciting on a good sweeper. I would also add fork tube alignment to your list. Not tightening things from the axle up to the top can put twists or stress on the fork. I am mailing SkyDoc17 my washer in the morning so he will have a pile of Furbur type washers. Remember as you are working through the steering problems, the rear has to be checked. An out of specification or loose swing arm will cause bad tracking and induce problems. I would put that higher on the list than the motor mounts. I think the solid mounts might help mask the swingarm bushings. If the rear vibrates, then the worn motor mounts might be amplifying the problem. Good luck, I am still chasing mine to an extent. Other thing to add is LOOSE STEERING BEARINGS - #1 CAUSE JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    Gearhead - I found the upper bearing nut loose, not the outermost crown nut. I think this might leave a bit of flex between the fork tubes and the bearing stem. Granted the tube mounts are large, but there is a lot of leverage between the ground and the tree. I agree threads and torque keep a nut tightened. I also think we need to factor vibration into the equation. I think the idea of the Furbur washer is to provice 3 solid points of contact on the upper casting. So far I can take my hands off the bar and it runs straight. I haven't smacked the bar and tried to induce a wobble as of yet. I think my loose bearings were more of the problem. My interest in the Furber fix comes from the desire to keep the bearing torque intact. I like the idea of locking the nuts down solid. Secondary to that is the geometry of the upper casting. I think it is altered when the crown nut is torqued down due to the compression of the rubber washer. Very minute I am sure but it could place a slight bind on the bearings and/or fork tubes. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    I agree with yor thoughts on pricing. I often charge labor to do a job based upon what a person can pay, not on what it is worth. I prefer to "pay it forward" when possible. I hate seeing the e-bay folks charging an unbelievable shipping price to avoid paying a percent on the sale price of an item. e-bay doesn't calculate billing on shipping costs. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    I only paid $5.00 for mine shipped from Blue Mountain. However, he seems a bit off line right now. I asked if he had any more and never heard back. Skydoc, my washer is in an envelope doing nothing until December. If you sent me a PM with an address, it could do nothing but sit in a set of calipers at your place I say see what it takes to make a bunch then decide on a price. I would hang a few on a nail. Wish I had a hobby lathe or milling machine. This kind of stuff is easy to make. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    I have a washer on the workbench. When I did my bearings I used the rubber washer. It took about 2 1/2 weeks to get the washer from Blue Mountain. I wanted to ride so I used the OEM method. No wobble so far. When I go back in for the fork overhaul I will put in the aluminum washer. I understand the concept. The upper section of the triple tree is not tapered. So when you tighten down the retainer nut for it, you are clamping the casting between the locknut underneath and the top nut. If the lower nut gets loose, so does the top casting. By locking the 2 lower nuts then locking the casting down on top the whole thing is solid. Sorry if the explanation is a bit fuzzy. My upper bearing nut was loose and rattling when I took the top casting off!! JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    I have an older Dell laptop with an SD slot. Like many others, it will not take the new high capacity SD cards. The hardware has a 2GB limit. I also can't read other cards. I have a big multi-card reader on my docking port at home. So, I went hunting. I came up with a Targus brand adapter. It reads the HC cards without any drivers. It is a 32 in 1 reader with a USB cord. Very small - about the size of a large matchbook. Uses a standard mini usb plug like a lot of other items. Targus TGR-CRD25 Wal Mart for $12.95 It also reads the MMC and XD cards (Like in your camera PONCH) JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    On a 1st Generation Venture the brakes are linked from rear to the left front. The front lever only operates the right front. to the best of my knowledge. When I woulf hit the front, the stopping power was not very great. When I hit the rear, I got most of my stopping power. It almost seemed that the front lever was "auxiliary stopping power". Don't grab a handful of front only and expect to stop fast. On a normal 1st Gen. you need to hit both to get full WHOA.
  18. lonestarmedic
    I just rode a Victory Vision on Saturday. It also has linked brakes. When the rear is applied, at a certain pressure point, the fronts start to get applied. It is a proportioning deal. When the fronts are applied, they operate the front only. I think they did a great job. On light applications in parking lots, rear only. On a curve to scrub a bit of speed, almost all rear. Hit heavier at a stop, great link feel. Both fronts get pressure. Grab all 3 calipers and hold on!! It sure could use anti-dive. I think Mochalady bruised her nose on my helmet! Compared to the 1st Gen link system, it is fantastic. You can lock the rear brake running solo if you try. However, it is extremely well controlled. This Jetsonmobile may look different, but under the tupperware is some fantastic engineering. Just needs a V-4 with fuel injection. Maybe a Vision-Max. Are you listening Yamaha? JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    I de-linked my brakes about a month ago. I used R6 calipers on the front. They have a steel piston. The R1 has an aluminum piston. I changed the upper line, removed the proportioner and added a V-Max front tee and lines without removing the fairing at all. The only bugger is the factory plastic block holding the lines on the fork. It has 2 phillips screws holding it. The only way to access is a phillips bit in a 1/4" drive ratchet. They are tight!!! I am installing an R1 caliper on the rear. I don't like the rear brake. It is well bled, just doesn"t have a lot of grab. I suspect glazed pads etc. contribute. I am using S/S lines and fittings from Goodridge. My final step will be to install S/S caliper lines when I rebuild the front forks. My anti-dive is not working well. The solenoids are functional, but I don't have lock-up. I need to see the condition of the seal washers. Opinions so far : 1. I like the control of the de-linked brakes 2. The fronts are fantasic. Stop power is maybe triple now. 3. Rear is substandard. As it is a good original caliper, I suspect the system design. 4. Bleeding is a simple task now. 5. This swap is well within the grasp of the average owner who has bled brakes before. 6. Upgrade to S/S lines is a good add. MkII lines are old and squishy. 7. Very cost effective upgrade. 8. Watch the front on gravel!! and grabbing a handful at full lock. (I owe $5.00) 9. Rear brake no longer causes front skid on gravel or sand. Costs: 3 calipers from E-bay @ $60.00 V-Max lines and tee @ $19.00 2 new S/S lines @ $80.00 (for the pair) Pile of copper washers @ $10.00 Quart of DOT4 @ $0.5.50 Future: 2 front S/S lines @ $80.00 (for the pair) Now, you can get a great set of S/S lines to fit the stock system from Buckeye Performance. I believe they will add a lot to the system. Many on the site have used them and reported a firmer brake. It makes sense. Rubber is deteriorating the minute it leaves the mold. Just a fact of chemistry. So, the newest MkII is a 1993. That makes original lines a minimum of 16 years old (mfg. dates give or take). Mine are almost 23 years old!! When I finish the rear caliper I will be able to give a clearer report. My brakes were in great shape when I started. All fluid was clean, pads good (maybe glazed) and no air or leaks. I did some butt-o-meter stopping tests befor I started the project. I won't know completely until I iron out the anti-dive. Right now even with progressive springs I can hit the fronts in a parking lot hard enough to bottom the forks unless I have about 8-9lbs. of air in the front. At greater speeds it just dives and stops-NOW! Hope this helps a bit. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    His buy it now price plus shipping equals $250.00!! Pretty steep for forks. Especially from Florida. I would be watching the chrome on the uppers pretty close. I guess if you need them it is an ok price. Certainly not economical just for spare parts. JB
  21. lonestarmedic

    HOPE!

    lonestarmedic replied to Tom's topic in Watering Hole

    I was out that way all day! Thought you and Sapper were going to call me when you went out. Oh well, next time. Mochalady and I did have fun this afternoon. We took a 2009 Victory Vision for an 85 mile spin. Not a V-4 but dang does it have a lot of nice features. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    Good morning everyone. I am starting a new thread because I have seen several questions on small jumper cables. I purchased a set during a motorcycle show one year. They are about 10ft. long and have nice clamps and a carrying case. On a 1st Gen. the case fits flat in the bottom of the side bags. I have even loaned them here at work to jump a 4cyl. or small 6cyl. car! Here is the link from Cyclegagets: http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?Item=BBOOST This is the same thing I have. I don't think you can build a set and get a storage bag on your own for this price. At least not unless you have things laying around. I like having them. Last time, I hooked them to a truck battery and just let it sit for about a half hour before starting. The donor vehicle wasn't even running. We then started the truck and then the bike. Hope this helps. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    I have used the front kneeling method several times to access the rear tire. It works well. Center stand bike and tie forward with a strap.Put 2-3 bags of salt on rear seat to pop bike off the front tire. Remove front tire and kneel the forks onto a piece of plyboard. It may help to have 2 people. One could remove a salt bag and help the balance. As you grab the fairing and lower the front it will get a bit heavier. Then remove the other bags. Remove the RH muffler and the caliper. The wheel came out from under the bike easily. I am note sure about the extra light bar. Go here for a full description. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393 JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    Ok - I'm going to fetch its buddy next weekend. As I don't have a bike trailer, I guess I will have to use the Expedition - if it is out of the body shop by then!! Dang repair shp is taking 2 weeks for a 1 week job. Looks like a gold mine on the trailer Jeff. Nothing like a good teardown on a Saturday. JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    Get that trailer near Texas and no problems. I will drag from Louisiana area. I can take it up to Oklahoma or store it in San Antonio. Maybe meet in Baton Rouge? San Antonio to Baton is a nice run. Then up to DFW area and into Oklahoma. JB
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