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lonestarmedic

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Everything posted by lonestarmedic

  1. lonestarmedic
    Add Texasyamahamama to the list. She runs a drop dead georgeous maroon 1st Gen. Lives up above DFW. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    If you are working on a painted metal surface,I suggest SEM products Rust-Mort. Once brushed on, it provides a dark grey surface that can be primed and painted. Remove loose stuff and put on several light coats. Also, I have used the POR-15 on automotive frames the same way. Both items are available at an auto body supply shop. SEM has a good line of specialty coatings and commercial bonding agents. They make the 2 part epoxy system that attaches the non-metallic panels on vehicle frames. If you are working on chromed or stainless surfaces I have had good luck with Naval Jelly from DURO. Also don't forget the common things. White vinegar does work. So does that CLR stuff. I have used CLR for years to clean battery connections and even green corroded electrical plugs. I put it in a cup and dip the connector. Then I get another cup with water and dip again. Finally use a bit of contact cleaner to remove the water. This leaves multi-pin connectors clean and bright. Use some dielectric grease on assembly. SOS pads scrub great. As does 0000 steel wool and chrome polish. Just remember to wipe down well and get any steel wool fibers out of the crannies. Otherwise they will rust. Small brass detailing brushes are good combined with most of the cleaning stuff listed above. Helps loosen the areas not accessible with the fingers. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    If you need diaphragms, try this guy. As long as the slides are smooth. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DIAPHRAGM-YAMAHA-XV535-VIRAGO-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYAL_W0QQitemZ280306841143QQihZ018QQcategoryZ35597QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    I use a small -ring pick or a pocket screwdriver. Go to the inside edge and pry up. The shield will pop right out. Now remember shield is a piece of tin. Sealed is a rubber bonded shield and is pressed tighter. If you look in my pictures. you will see that I prefer pink handled Snap On picks. The pink seems to make them work better. JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    You can drain the fuel and then change the filter. To get inside the tank, remove the float assembly below the seat. It is a round plate with screws around the edge. Then you can view the inside. Also, you can remove the petcock for draining. Watch the petcock. It is probably stiff or locked up from lack of use. Remember in the on position it draws fuel from a tube a couple inches from the tank bottom. So, the tank could have fuel in it even though it has stopped draining. You may find the screens plugged up on the petcock assembly. You will need the pre-formed o-ring for the petcock and the gasket/o-ring for the float to re-assemble. I have had luck in reaching down ito the tank with a swab on a stick and wiping everything down. Then spraying a cleaning solvent on the inside to flush out the tank. The fuel filters are cheap if you use a will-fit from the auto parts. Buy several as you may encounter some plugging after the cleaning. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Todd - Smooth move guy. All the 2nd Gen folks are just jealous. Don't forget I have a 1986 parts bike with complete motor and driveline. I have plans for the carbs and the block (Bore and sleeve to 1500). The transmission gears aren't needed per say. Keys are easy if the owner doesn't respond John Blankenship -- http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/ Get that number from the bottom of the ignition switch and there ya go. Owners name - apparently a women. Think it must be Ima Broke. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    Guys- If you want to keep those screws from seizing in aluminum try this stuff: Bostik Mariners Choice Never Seez Great stuff for salt water applications. I used it on snowplow hardware when I lived in Ohio. I think they also offer a high-temp. stainless based product. It is not formulated for use on stainless, it has stainless in it for the high temp. I would add a lockwasher to the screw if anti-seize compound is applied. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    Hey Ole- Soon as the Doc clears me to ride I'll hit you up and we will put something together to break it in. We got enough folks around S.A. to make up a good sized pack. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    We are supposed to be getting .10 to .25 of sleet and ice tonight. THat will shut down the entire town!!! Call out the state guard and roll up the roadways. Call Washington for disaster relief. People around here can't drive in the rain let alone snow or ice. You watch, people will DIE tonight and tomorrow. Sad but true. Tom in Blanco will be getting his share about 9pm. San Antonio is supposed to get it by midnight. Jo
  10. lonestarmedic
    Wilkie - right up my sitting on my arse can't walk alley! Easy to do. We can pull the module and re-flow the solder joints. I can do that while you are doing the plug wires and plugs. I'll show you how and then when the dash computer monitor goes crazy you'll know what to do. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    I do try and shutterbug on things when I can. The original write-up is in the archives of the 1st Gen tech section. I like to document my mistakes so that I may serve as a warning to others. I didn't do the brakes because I shamelessly robbed SkyDoc17's pictures and put them in my tech files. Oh - front bearings are 6303. I use shielded bearings at all 3 locations and popped the shield out of 1 side. Then I put the bearing in open side out. Pack with grease and then put the seal into the housing. This was how I found the factory bearings. I used Amsoil high-temp synthetic grease. JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    I agree Bill, It is cold and raining here in San Antonio. Might go to freezing tonight. My leg hurts and the Doc said no riding until Feb 17th. So I guess I have irritable VR syndrome. I am hobbling with a cane and popping pain pills. People are starting to call my House. When you are done with Gore, send him down here so I can beat him with my cane. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    I had the same thing happen on my 1986. In the morning it was 37 F. I went to work and it got to above70 F. I rode to lunch then it sat until 8pm and about 45 F. Did this a couple days and noticed the smell and a 2-3 inch stain on the concrete at work. Also found a few drops on the garage. I could see the marks from the waterpump weep hole. I cleaned it up and haven't seen it since. I was all set to rebuild the water pump. I think I will wait and see if it happens again. If so, I will do all of the o-rings and gaskets. So, we down here can have the same crazy problem. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    GaryZ- The anti-dive on the 1983-1985 is run off of the brake hydraulics. I am not sure how it will act with the different pressure. The 83-85 has adjustment for pressure to the anti-dive on the bottom. The 1986-1993 has electric solenoids for the anti-dive. The fittings on the 1st Gen are standard 10mm banjo ends. The banjo bolts are 10mm x 1.25 thread. I got my hoses from the local crotch rocket speed shot. Same with the copper washers. I think I paid about $1.00 for 4 washers. Beats the heck out of the Yamaha washer. Also, the fancy chrome banjo bolts available from aftermarket will work if you need them. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    If you are looking for the bearing on the brake side it is a 6304. The seal is best purchased from Yamaha. I did get a seal from a bearing house but it took weeks and wasn't any cheaper in the end. Below are pictures of the adapter. Notice the snap ring holding it to the wheel. Take that off and pull the adapter. I used a blind hole bearing puller from Harbor Freight to remove the bearing. Clean the drive dowels and put on a bit of neverseize. Then a bit of grease on the inside of the adapter. Grease the splines on the O.D. before re-installing on the bike. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    The input area on top of the amplifier of a 1st Gen is very compact. A standard right angle midi connector is too tall and hits the bottom of the control panel. Yamaha DOES use a molded end. Also, the end is keyed non-standard to allow the cables to lay in a certain direction. There are 4 DIN sockets and when plugged in they have to lay a certain way or the cables will overlap. I used modeling clay on top of the connectors to check clearance for a straight/taller plug. It isn't there. I edited this post to add pictures of the radio and cables. I realized that some folks may not have seen a 1st Gen. Radio setup. The controls are in the top lid and connect to the tuner and amplifier via cable. The tuner/amp. sits vertically under a plastic panel. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    BuddyRich- Go see the zumoforums.com website. I think they will verify my findings on stereo and the bluetooth. So far the input for the ampifier seems to accept a pretty low volume input. I have tried an MP3 player and did not have any problems. I don't think a pre-amp will be needed to get the volume up. Seems to drive the amplifier well. Microphone input seems to be good. I dont think a signal boost will be needed there either. If it turns out to need a bit of oomph I think I can devise a small pre-amp circuit that can be integrated. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    As you are all contemplating the purchase of a zumo 550, please keep in mind that the bluetooth portion is for the cell phone connection. It does NOT give STEREO output for the MP3 player. The only way to get stereo is out of the hardwire plug. Now, the new Zumo 660 will support stereo sound over bluetooth. However, the 660 does not have XM capability. Also, I don't believe the 550 will support 2 connections over bluetooth at the same time. So, riding 2 up would force 1 person to be in silence unless the helmet of 1 would rebroadcast to another. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    I feel pretty good today. I hope to get a limited clearance tomorrow. My only problem is trying to kneel or squat to work on the bikes. So, I have a drafting chair with a foot rail in the garage. Set it at the workbench and do all my wiring and soldering projects. Oh- I have the grouchy, sarcastic atitude already. Now all I need is Hugh Laurie's (House) money!! I will change the "purty" cane if I end up needing it for a while. JT- can you fit a V-4 on that scooter? I am lucky to have good folks around here. Thanks for the offers. If I need a hand, I can get my cousin to come over and help. Might have him or Maggie put the bike on the centerstand for some basic maintenance. First injury I have had in a long time. Always been able to do what I want when I want. So, I will follow the Doc's orders. Don't want any lasting effects. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    Thank-you Ivan- I will treasure my award always. On a serious note, If no-one else grabs it, I will buy it and throw it on the shelf. Might come in handy someday. That and a dairy queen gift certificate might get some-one out of trouble. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    There's a guy on eBay that sells 4 rubber pieces only. You put them on the slide. He has sold a bunch since he started this year. About $100 a set. I am going to get a set myself. Looks like a good alternative. If anything, a Cali. model should be a bit leaner. I bet on gunked carb jets and bad rubber. Possibly bad needle/seat. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    So, I have had time to reply to a few posts this week. Been able to read threads and posts. Why you ask? Because my right leg doesn't bend like the legs of a bird!!!!!!!! I stepped on some gravel at work and landed my right leg against the curb. Tried to flex my toes up against my shin. Heard and felt a pop and fell to the ground. Apparently I ripped my calf muscle. So, I see stars and go lightheaded for about 15 minutes. I rode to work so I figured I had about a half hour before the pain really set in. Got some help and backed the bike out of the lot. Drove home using my left foot with the right propped on the peg. Maggie had the garage open and I dropped the kickstand and she helped me off. Could not use the leg at all by then. Kinda new what had happened. So, now I have a cane and the local old folks with walkers can lap me. Going to occupational health Tuesday for an exam. Been off since Wednesday. Since it happened on base I am not allowed to return until the exam. Goes under worker's comp. And since I work on the 3rd floor without an elevator they consider it unsafe. Oh Well, no lost days or pay. JB Oh. insult to injury - the only pistol grip handle cane available has freaking flowers and vines printed on it!!! I will get something different if I am told to use the cane for a while.
  23. lonestarmedic
    Take a look first and make sure it is has a "C" on the end of the model. With the miles on the bike, I would be pretty sure it is. I have 2 1986 Federal Models if you need any comparisons. Some of the other folks on here can probably answer the differences better than I. Also, make sure that everything is up to snuff before you change anything based on the emissions. JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    I just removed one of those from my wrecked 1986 parts bike. It is the intake filter for the C.L.A.S.S. compressor. SKU: 31M-22950-00-00 SUCTION FILTER ASS''Y It is listed for $39.00 at Seattle Yamaha. Go get it. Heck of a deal if ya need one. I have seen one of these plugged up. Could cause a compressor overheat. So, do I win the kewpy doll? JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    Kreg- That may not happen. Rumor has it that Wollensak and Aiwa can't come to an agreement with Yamaha over vertical or horizontal mounting. It is possible that they may re-tool the old under dash 45RPM record player in the left saddlebag. JB
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