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lonestarmedic

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Everything posted by lonestarmedic

  1. lonestarmedic
    Hey - Thought maybe they kept a few things the same from 1st to 2nd Gen. Figured the rectifier was different. Thought maybe its plugs would match. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    Well, I guess I am a minority. I run Mobile 1 15W50 in my 1986. I don't have leaks. My clutch grabs as tight as ever. The motor pulls strong and I don't notice the temp gauge going up quite as far as it did with dino oil. Coincidence or not. I will point out that this particular oil is not an energy conserving oil. Before this I always used Castrol 20W50 in warm weather and a 10W40 in cold weather. I will say that I believe motorcycle specific oils seem to be overpriced. I know a lot of folks using Rotella T 15W40. I bet there are a huge pile of bikes running Rotella with fantastic results. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    If you send me a picture or a bit better description, I have an entire wiring harness. I also have a spare known good rectifier. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    Brian, After I get done with the front end, I would be glad to give you an interview on the death wobble chase. Also, we could do something on the Texas Stampede. Heck, we can even do a debate on home engineering vs. purchasing of accessories. Choose an item such as the lights and run a comparison of what is involved both ways. Or maybe we could do something on adding electronics such as a GPS. What is involved in the 1st Gen. vs. the 2nd Gen. JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    That's what I get for trying to teach and think!! Motorcycles don't create enough vacuum volume to an actuator. There is a pump and an actuator. So, the possible engine vacuum leak would not relate to the cruise. Find the engine problem first. It is probably a leak. Then, chase the cruise. It could be a leak on its own. Or something with the pump/actuator. Jackie, the best thing here is someone familiar with the system and a good wiring diagram. I am not close, but if you get over this way I bet we can get it figured out. Otherwise, find someone close to you. Either way, good luck. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Jackie- It sure sounds like a leak in the line for the cruise actuator. That is the can that attaches to the throttle and pulls the linkage. Knowing the history of your bike, I would suspect more than 1 leak. As your bike has low miles for its year, that equates to a lot of time sitting. If you need a copy of the service manual, I have one in PDF format. I could copy and e-mail a couple pages. The whole file is about 94mb. A can of starting fluid with a nozzle straw can be used to spray around the intake area (carefully!!). This is done while the engine is running. When sprayed near the vaccum leak, the engine RPM will speed up. There are other chemicals such as WD-40 that can also be used. Starting fluid gives the most dramatic results. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    Yup I hear the NFL is negotiating with Texas. However, Texas is holding out for the right to cecede from the league and form one of its own at any time in the future. JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    I like the idea. I have done a bunch of short clips for work before. I also think back to the repairs I have done. A short video would work well. How to items. How much space is needed. I have a domain of my own and could expand the space. Probably not terribly expensive. I am doing the steering bearings this weekend. I will try to rig something up to record various steps. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    Dingy- Sent you an e-mail with a couple pictures. Also look at the threads I mentioned. That should get you straight. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    With Masterguns bike, shiney spots aren't a problem! He has almost every Ventureline original accessory on the bike. Very nice and very clean bike. Herb, with the rotor covers and caliper covers I would think something aimed from the fender area down would look nice on the front. Then maybe super brights under the rear bags and the engine. It would give the effect of floating in a pool of light. The other neat effect is to go against the windscreen at the base and aim a couple into the edge of the plastic. It lights up the perimeter of the windscreen in a kind of ghost glow. JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    Brian - My write up on the lights can be found here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19714 As far as time goes, the only extra I spent was obtaining the hardware at the local Lowe's store. But, that could be the case with any light mount. I too like quality work and accessories. However, I approach it from the angle of doing my own work. I like the challenge. And, I havent seen an accessory catalog for a 1986 Venture with current available items! I may replace the lights in the near future with a different brand or model. My only complaint is the wires from the light to the bracket. I might get a small piece of chromed wire loom of some sorts. Also, I might send the brackets out to get them chrome plated. However, the stainless steel looks good. The Stampede is the weekend of the 18th of October. I hope you can make it. If not for the weekend, then at least for that Saturday. Then you can see the lights in person. JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    Brian, I mounted a set of those cheap lights on a set of shoddy brackets that I purchased from Squidley. I added stainless steel allen head hardware and acorn nuts. That was about 1 year and 15,000 miles ago. Through the sun and rain they have not rusted. The bulbs are still inside the housing and the cheap electrical connections are intact. The total cash outlay for the lights, hardware, brackets, relay and wiring was less than $60.00. The results have been viewed by other people as innovative and appealing. With the difference in money I have purchased in excess of 60 gallons of gas, travelled about 2700 miles and had quite a few enjoyable meets and rides. Through all of this my lights with the exact same bulb (MR16) as the Kuryakyns have lit up the night in Big Bend, shown me the way to and from Houston, Victoria, East Texas, and the local back roads of Hill Country. All on my sub-$4000.00 bike. I would say that my money and return on investment was good. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    Ditto on Champions. I had a set of the new copper cores when they 1st came out. I put them in my 1982 Gold Wing. Took them out on the side of the road and put the NGKs back in. The Champions were not burning hot enough. Seemed to cut out some of the strength of the spark. I use plain NGKs. Don't trust the super fancy ground electrodes. Can say that Autolite has never let me down. I run NGKs in my 4 wheel vehicles. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    Send it on over. I just finished my new workbench in the garage. Got good light and a clean spot. If that don't fix it, I always have the mig welder. I do have a fee for the service. You must help someone in the future and make sure to charge the same fee. JB
  15. lonestarmedic
    Just watch the driveway. It is straight down and then a 90 degree turn. Only thing to stop you at the 90 is the side of a truck. I let Todd do the driveway honors when I was there. Oh, if you ask, he has a bit of single malt hidden away. Really great riding going in and out of his area. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    You mentioned the engine oil sensor also being a bit inaccurate. With 2 sensors amiss, could it be a grounding problem at the CMS? I can't remember the circuits. I just know if I am chasing a problem like this I will check my grounds and even run an extra temporary ground. I doubt that the magnet is a problem. If it is a magnet driven sensor, then I would suspect the hall effect sensor. Good luck on this one. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Used to carry Pennzoil at the crane company. They have 3 oils that you might consider. 1. A 10w-40 motorcycle specific oil 2. A conventional 15w-40 diesel engine oil 3. A racing oil at 25w-50 A lot will depend on ambient temperatures. I run Mobil 1 15w-50 here in Texas until after October. Then I change to a 10w-40 until May. Just my method. In the northern states I used 15w-40. I can tell you that the 25w-50 will feel a bit thick below 50 degress F. I get about a 200 rpm increase from cold start to normal operating temps with the 15w-50. Since the cost of the oil is not an object here, I might lean towards the 10w-40 motorcycle specific oil. Next choice would be the 15w-40 diesel oil. In the summer months, the 25w-50 would be fine. Especially if you are running towards warm places.The old straight weight Pennzoils were popular for the Harley crowd. And I knew a lot of folks running the 25w-50 racing oil. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    I am going to create a "pocket" with a hinged lid. Inside will be a cigarette lighter socket, an input port for stereo (MP3 etc), and a set of small switches. I am going to use the metal housing and the top faceplate for some basics and as a template. When finished it will allow for the connection of a cellular phone etc. I hope to make a magnetic catch with a cover that will be easy to open yet water resistant. One switch will activate the connection just like inserting a cassette. The other switch will work the microphone. I am toying with either running the microphone as a PTT or open like the intercom. If it is PTT, the switch will transfer the PTT from the CB to the phone. If I use the intercom style, the switch will serve as a mute to disconnect the mic while speaking with a passenger. Haven't decided what will work the best. My own use will be to have a place to charge a cell phone and/or my camera batteries. The input will be for a Garmin 550. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    I am playing with a couple ideas for the 1st Gen. stereo. I am looking for a couple dead cassette players. All I am looking for is an intact casing and top bezel. I don't care about the buttons or the cassette door. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    I still maintain that we should rename it as a YAMAKAWI-DAVIDSON. Took the back of a Venture and side-hinged the trunk, scavenged a Vulcan driveline, then rebuilt the fairing from a Road Glide. However it certainly has caused a stir. Even more than the Victory Vision when it came out. Someday I might even own a Royal Glide Vulcan. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    My thoughts Belt - periodic maintenance for tension Shaft - essentially no maintenance except for spline lubing Belt - light weight and simple. Transfers power better than shaft Shaft - less prone to collecting road grime and debris. Belt - axle shaft setup supports wheel differently When belts first come on the scen, they were not reliable and fairly expensive. Now, with the modern materials I think they are as reliable as a shaft. One other item, it is a lot easier to change differential ratios!! I would not put the mechanics of the belt high on my list of considerations. I think it is possibly more of an aesthetic choice. JB. P.S. - Doggone right I am watching this scoot. I have the blue and the silver as screen backgrounds. If Yamaha doesn't do something near the same, I will pull the trigger on one of these in 2010.
  22. lonestarmedic
    I dropped over to the VRA (Voyager Rider Association)board. Mixed emotions about the bike of course. But, it seems that Kawasaki visited them and asked what they wanted in a bike. The list that they put together is in a thread. Along with the features that they have on the new bike. Many members are complaining about the motor platform being a V-twin. They were hoping for the Concours driveline. As an outsider I see the sense in what Kawi did. They are directly fighting for Yamaha and Harley riders. Probably hoping for a few Wing and Vision folks. I applaud them for their product. However, I will wait to see what Yamaha does before pulling out the checkbook. JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    As I mentioned in another thread, this style fills my request list nicely. I too would rather run a couple more cylinders. However, I wanted the back end of a 2nd generation with a Road Glide styled frame mounted fairing. Powered by an EFI motor and 6 speed. I imagine that the intercom etc. will be there. It has the XM capability and the MP3 interface. I believe Kawasaki may hit a home run here. Price it below 20K and bump the warranty up a couple years. It will never replace my first gen. but would allow me to pick and choose when I put the miles on her. JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    I may have to watch this with a great deal of interest. I really like the looks and the technology. I would prefer a 4 cylinder but, it is a 1700 V-twin with 107 ft.-lbs. of torque. JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    It must be a Harleykawa-Venturson. I hope it is a new Venture. Retro look of sorts with a frame mounted fairing. If it is, Yama-Mama was smart not to put in a trademark V-4. That would have given it away. JB
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