Flyinfool

:rotf: Go to Google earth and get driving directions to MD. :rotfl: What a gas to follow the route :rotf: 25,516 miles, Drive time about 55 days, 23 hours. You better hurry..........

I hope it works ok but I will have my transponder in the trunk of the bike. It should pick up the signal at least as easy as from inside of a cage. The distance from the front wheel of the bike to the trunk is about the same as from the front of my cage to the transponder. I am NOT putting stickies on my brand new windshield on the bike.

If we knew where to send them they would have to wait in line. It must have been pulled while I was typing. The family has been flagging it all day. Hopefully no damage has occurred. Probably find out at the end of the month The add has been up since the 13th. We found out about it this morning when someone in California used the address to look up a phone number and called for more info.

There is an add on Craigs list right now for a house for rent. The add lists the address, has pictures, and it is my parents house. My parents are NOT trying to rent this house. This house in this neighborhood would rent for a lot more than the CL add. The reply to email address even has my fathers name in it. This is a scam, the police have been notified but said there is not much they can do. There have been local news reports of this where someone is taking real estate listings (yes the house was just listed for sale 2 weeks ago) and using the info from that to create these for rent adds, usually the first that someone knows of it is when one or more moving vans shows up in front of their house with one or more familys expecting to move in having already paid their first and last months rent plus security deposit. Not only are these family's out the money they sent to the scammer but they have already terminated the lease where they were living. This is the ad http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/apa/2380005353.html Please go to the add and click on prohibited, then open the ad again and click spam. Hopefully with enough feedback CL will pull the ad before something bad happens. Thanks for your help on this

That is exactly why they invented Dielectric grease. To keep the water out of electrical connections. If you have corrosion in your socket, which could be the cause of you bad ground, clean it up and coat the bulb base and the inside of the socket and contacts with dielectric grease and put the bulb back in. That should keep it good and clean till you have to change the bulb someday when it dies of old age.

OK so it has been a while. I FINALLY got around to hooking something up so that the headlight does not light when I turn on the ignition and then go out when I hit the starter and then have to relight again. I am sure that the extra starts on the ballast are not doing it any good. So here is what I ended up with. I have a push button switch to turn the headlight on and a flashing LED to tell me the light has not yet been turned on. First off I no longer have the jumpers as pictured way back in the how to part of this thread. I acquired a dead Reserve Lighting Unit, from a member here, just so I could cut the connector off of it. You could still do this by attaching to the jumpers on the RLU connector as shown previously. I used 18AWG wire for everything. I use the type of crimp on terminals that have the built in heat shrink tubing. I completely removed the RLU from the bike to make more room for this mod and I can see that I will not be going back to needing it. Parts list; Switch - SPST, push button, momentary, Normally Open. Digi-Key #679-1040-ND Switch boot - Water proof boot for switch, Digi-Key #679-1297-ND Relay - SPDT, 30A, Digi-Key #255-1830-ND LED - Bright red, blinking, Radio Shack #276-312 LED holder - holder for LED Radio Shack #276-080 Resistor - 330 ohm 1/8W, Radio Shack #271-012 Assorted wire, shrink tubing and terminals type stuff. The steps; I soldered a jumper wire onto the relay from terminal 87 to terminal 85. You could just as easily add the jumper using the QC terminals. Crimp a QC terminal onto the Blue/black wire from the RLU connector, and add in an extra wire enough to reach to the place you intend to install the push button switch to this crimp and attach the QC to Term 30 of the relay. Crimp a QC term to the extra wire from step 2 and plug it onto the switch. Make up a wire with a QC on each end the same length as the extra wire from step 2. Plug one end of this wire onto term 85 of the relay and the other end onto the remaining term of the switch. Slide the rubber part of the LED holder onto the leads of the LED. Look close at the leads of the LED, notice that one of the leads is longer than the other one. Solder a 330 ohm resistor onto the long lead and attach a wire to the resistor that is long enough to reach back to the relay. Cover the resistor and its solder joints up to the rubber piece with heat shrink tubing. Attach a QC term to the other end of the wire and plug it onto Term 87a of the relay. Solder a wire long enough to reach back to the RLU connector to the short lead of the LED and cover with heat shrink tubing. Mount the LED holder in your desired location and then press the LED and the rubber up into the holder. I used just a dab of clear silicone just to seal it from water and to be sure that the LED can not fall out. Attach a QC to a 6 inch wire and plug it into term 86 of the relay. Bring together the Light Green, and Black wires from the RLU connector along with the free ends of the wires from the relay term 86, and the LED. connect these 4 wires together (I twisted them together and soldered) and cover with Heat shrink tubing. If you haven't already, connect the Yellow/Green and the Blue/red wires of the RLU connector together and cover with Heat shrink tubing. The yellow and the Green/Red wires of the RLU connector are not used, just insulate the ends to prevent shorting. Tape and seal everything up nice to keep water and corrosion out and dress and fasten everything down neatly. Operation will be as follows. When you turn the key on the LED will be flashing and the headlight will be off. Start the engine. The LED will be flashing and the headlight will still be off. Press the push button switch and the headlight will come on and the LED will turn off. The Headlight will stay on and the LED will stay off till something causes the head light to turn off, like pressing the starter switch or turning off the key. Anything that turns the headlight off will reset the circuit to having the headlight off and LED flashing. pushing the switch returns it to Headlight on and LED off. This will save the ballast from always having to start the HID twice every time you start the bike. This circuit could be easily adapted to a 2nd gen to avoid the problem of the voltage dropping during cranking and the HID turning off due to low voltage, and you having to shut the bike off and restart to get the HID back on. Again this almost took longer to type than to do. I will post pics later.

Too bad, It wont help around the Ice Cream. there is no stopping me. There are not many things that will get me away from the trough, I mean bucket...... I can close my eyes and hold my nose while sneaking in. ps a cattle prod can move a scary looking thong out of the way to......cute thongs do not need to be moved. If desperation sets in I can have my own thong at the ready.

Glad you are up and running, maybe even better than new. From Jeffs description it sounds like another oil change once you get home is in order. I also seem to remember a few people posting that that course took out a clutch. I guess it should be standard packing to bring a clutch kit and oil change to the MSF.

If you need anything just give me a call, I'm not that far away. Even if it starts to rain I can bring an EZ-UP. Might take 4 people to hold it down in this wind though.

So does he have everything he needs to get this done. Warm bodies and or tools. I have the inch pound torque wrench. I can head out there to help if needed. I do have a spare oil filter for my '88 if it will fit. I can pick up oil on the way.

DONE at least with the first piece. Scratch #12 off the list. I guess that there are some advantages to crappy weather for a whole weekend.

I guess that there are some advantages to being stuck in the house by 40* rain with 35 mph wind for the whole weekend. Well I did not like the fixture that I showed being machined a few posts earlier. So I started over. Here is a pic of the final fixture. This one fixture does the ramp on both sides of the tool, and it squares the sawed off ends, and machines the final thickness. AND even more important, a couple pics of the first finished part off the fixture. Now I just have to decide if I should try to case harden it. It might be worth a try as is first. This was one tough chunk o steel. HSS and Cobalt cutters barely scratched it. I had to use all solid carbide cutters. And wore a few of them out. NOW I need a suc....... I mean volunteer that is about to start a valve shim job to try it out. I would prefer it be someone that has a tool already just in case this one either breaks or just don't work right.

You said you checked the bulb, singular. and swapped the bulb, singular, left to right. Did you check both the front and rear bulbs on both sides? If all 4 turn signal bulbs are good then I agree that it is most likely a bad ground. At least that is where I would start looking.

Come on now guys, you know that baiting Mini like that is just like putting a steak in front of a hungry lion........... There is no way she can resist........

Holes in the airbox will make it lean. Rich is ok, lean is bad.

It depends. is the bike running good with those holes in the air box? Maybe the PO adjusted the carbs to work with the holes and covering them will mess it up. You can always cover them with tape one at a time and see which way runs best, then make the change permanent. Many here have tried it, most have covered the holes back up.

Notice the add says best ice cream in Florida. What the he11 does anyone in Florida know about ice cream. Hear in the dairy capitol we know our ice cream. I still go through a couple of gallons a week. I'm with you Tom, loading my rifleS now. Blasphemy I tell ya, just blasphemy.

VERY!!!

These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders. I woulkd od all of the testing mentioned above that can be done while the motor is still in the bike to rule out all of the less bad things that could be wrong. Good luck

I remember being in the 3rd grad with little Johny....... Oh wait, I'm aging myself........

The kids filed back into class Monday morning. They were very excited. Their weekend assignment was to sell something, then give a talk on productive salesmanship. Little Sally led off: "I sold girl scout cookies and I made $30," she said proudly, "My sales approach was to appeal to the customer's civil spirit and I credit that approach for my obvious success." "Very good," said the teacher. Little Jenny was next: "I sold magazines," she said, "I made $45 and I explained to everyone that magazines would keep them up on current events." "Very good, Jenny," said the teacher.. Eventually, it was Little Johnny's turn. The teacher held her breath ... Little Johnny walked to the front of the classroom and dumped a box full of cash on the teacher's desk. "$2,467," he said. "$2,467!" cried the teacher, "What in the world were you selling" "Toothbrushes," said Little Johnny. "Toothbrushes," echoed the teacher, "How could you possibly sell enough tooth brushes to make that much money?" "I found the busiest corner in town," said Little Johnny, "I set up a Dip & Chip stand, I gave everybody who walked by a free sample." They all said the same thing, "Hey, this tastes like dog crap!" Then I would say,"It is dog crap. Wanna buy a toothbrush?" "I used the governmental approach of giving you something crappy that they say is good, and then making you pay to get the crappy taste out of your mouth." The teacher was speechless. . . . . . . .

It just happened to work out that the trailer is on the north side of the shed so it will never see direct sunlight. I did hook the trailer to the bike to verify the wire lengths and chain lengths before I put the bike back together from all of the wiring that had to be done. Everything works. I just ordered a Swivel adapter from MCHitch.com. It is made to fit the non standard size tongue and coupler that are on the HF trailer. This is the only swivel adapter that I have found that is made to fit the HF trailer. It is a bonus that it is direct from the manufacturer and is also the lowest priced one out there. I had been hemming and hawing over extending the tongue on the trailer anyhow so this will extend the tongue by 6.5 inches. A good compromise I guess. I have not pulled the trailer behind a vehicle yet but just in moving it around the yard that slipper spring rattles like crazy. I will have to find that thread that tells what was used to quiet it down. I know it used some rubber tubing over the bolt and I thought that there was some kind of pad used between the spring and the frame. The first pull will be behind my P/U truck so that if there are any issues the trailer can not cause me to crash, and if there is an issue I can just load it into the back of the truck to get it home.

I always knew there was something wrong with the air in Texas.......

But look at all of the fun you had pulling the flywheel...

Well its not quite really on the the way, I'll actually be picking up 80 at 294. But the thought was there.