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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Steve You/we needed video. I would have gone back for the battery........ Just grab them firmly by the neck and they calm right down..........
  2. The local rag may have let the word out since the ran an article about the incident that they got from the police reports. So the jerks may know to lay low for a while. This weekend I will get the SD card out of the camera to see what the pics look like. In theory the SD card is good for 10 days of pics at 1 per minute. But since no one knows the camera is there I have to do it in the dark when no one is around. I have it mounted 24 feet up in a tree overlooking the whole parking lot. The pics are not great but they were taken at 10PM. The cam is right at the top of the ladder.
  3. Now you all done it. My membership was going to expire this weekend. This reminded me to renew for another year. So now you all have to put up with me for another whole year plus a couple of days. You had your chance to be rid of me, but you messed up with this thread....... Thanks Don for all you do to make this site great. I used to run a site so I know just how much work it really is.
  4. Drat, somehow I missed that one. Never-mind........
  5. A few miles ain't far enough, they could be coming back home. Many critters are good at that. Hit them with a drop of food color on there back to tell if it is the same ones you are catching again.
  6. OK the Icons seem to be a mystery here. There is a grey panel just below that flashing red light. When you first turn the key to the run position does a series of icons light-up in that grey window? After they have cycled thru, do any of them remain lit?
  7. Dreamer......
  8. Did you remind him that that he don't need a bike to come on here? We can pick on him with or without a bike.....
  9. I did a winter M&E in march. You could plan a summer one.
  10. We can help you find something to "fix".
  11. Now come on guys. Yer gonna make me blush..... Just glad I could help.
  12. Gettin old???
  13. Before you start replacing anything, I would start by cleaning all of the connections. This would include; the 3 wire connector between the stator and RR the connector coming out of the RR the battery terminals the other end of the ground wire. Even if the connections LOOK clean, take them apart and clean them anyhow.
  14. Poor Baby..............
  15. The Bull Frog Inn may have better bug control, Butt the Pond Monster Motel has better BIG game hunting.......... Or so I have been told.....
  16. Electrically the 55W is not an issue. The stock headlight is 60W. I have no clue on the legal issue of 35W vs 55W. But I was thinking of upgrading to the 55W ballast, they claim 40% more light. Now I did notice that my system voltage became more stable while sitting a a red light idling with the brake on. that 25W savings made a big difference in idle voltage. I will also be adding 2 35W HID driving lights. Since I got the HID headlight, I can not even tell when my driving lights are on.
  17. Well since you started it......... This Eagle may be smarter than any 1st gen rider, but any first gen rider is still smarter than any 2nd gen rider. Doesn't say much for the 2nd gens.......
  18. Is there a manufacture date on the nameplate or the title? That will give you the best idea of just how old they are. I am sure the dealer knows what the model year is, it would have to go on the paperwork for the title. If they are that old, check the date codes on the tires. They may already need new skins. Make him a low ball offer, see just how bad he wants to move them. According to this website http://www.cycle-mate.com/trailers/ the list price on a CM2000 is $1595.00. looks like its the old mark it way up and then give a sale price that is still more than MSRP. Unless of course it has a LOT of accessories that are not visible in the pic.
  19. The Shindengen web side describes the SH012 series as "shorting" the stator to achieve regulation. This will allow the RR to remain nice and cool but is not doing the stator any favors. The one I listed achieves regulation by cutting the power from the stator. This means that the RR will run hotter but the stator will run cooler. Ideal would be if someone were to make a switching regulator. It would be expensive and possibly big, but both the RR and the stator would run cool. I have yet to see one available.
  20. Thats exactly what I was referring to, The one that you have on your trailer if you are holding the brake and have a turn signal on, half of the light bar will flash. It will only illuminate solid if the brake is on and the turn signals are off. What the OP and myself are after is a true brake light where you will need some form of electronic mixer as in options 2 or 3 above. I was planning on getting the same light that you have and using it with my mixer circuit and just tying the green and yellow wires together. This will give me the center and 2 outermost LEDs lit as running lights that are on all of the time and anytime I hit the brake the full bar will light up.
  21. The FH012 RR you have in the first post is still shorting the excess power to ground. just like the original Yami one does. This one SH775 does not short the excess power to ground and will result in a cooler running stator. Althoough I think I would prefer the SHxx1 once they release it just to have some reserve on current carrying ability. http://www.shindengen.co.jp/img_e/product/electro/catalog/catalog_08.jpg
  22. Good think Togas are optional cuz I dont have one. I will just have to be toga-less. OH wait, that was last night, Missed it again, Dang work.......
  23. Ummmmm... The Stop/turn lights do have 3 wires, but they are ground, Running, and stop/turn. There is no fourth wire. The ones with the fourth wire are simply turn signals that are mounted right next to each other so half of the TBL will still flash with the turn signal even if the brake is on.
  24. Woo Hoo, I almost never beat someone to a post....... While it might be easy to just add the 5th wire you would end up with both the trailer and bike wiring as non standard. Nonstandard is fine as long as you will never pull a trailer for someone else or have someone else pull your trailer or want to pull your trailer behind a car. You could add the 5th wire as a separate wire with a separate bullet connector, but that is getting to be to Micky Mouse for my taste. My preference if it works is option 3, If I can not get that to work I will do option 2.
  25. Yes it can be done. There are a couple of ways to go about it. 1. Cheap, quick and dirty. Bring up the left and right turn/stop wires, hook a diode to each one and tie the other end of the diodes together, this then goes to the positive lead of the Third Brake Light (TBL). This will light the TBL whenever either of the stop turn lights are lit. So if you have the brake on the TBL will be lit steady. The down side is that when you have just a turn signal on the TBL will be flashing with the turn signal possibly confusing a driver behind you. 2. It can be done with 2 double pole relays (either DPDT or DPST NO) and 2 diodes so that it will work correctly in all conditions. A little more involved to wire up but the TBL will only light when the brake is on as it should be. Schematic attached. 3. It can be done with solid state components but would require you to have the ability to make a small simple circuit board, The circuit I laid out would use 2 diodes, 2 NPN transistors, 4 resistors and an SCR on a small heat sink. I have the circuit designed and I have bought the parts, I just have not had time to build it yet to verify that it works as designed. There are some commercially available converters out there, but all of the ones that I found were of option 1, and that will not go on my trailer.
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