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Showing results for tags 'pull'.
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Anyone know what a failing clutch bearing sounds like. I'm getting a whirring type sound while riding that goes away when I pull the clutch in. ANy ideas -
Both pulled and tongue weight limits. What're the limits? I've read that the RSV's warranty won't be void if a trailer is pulled and that it is the only MC that can pull one without voiding the warranty. Is that correct? If so, why doesn't the manual say anything about trailering?
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dos anyone pull a camper trailer with there RSV?? if so what kind do you have and how dos it pull dos it pull heavy or sway? inquiring minds want"s to know George C.
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Was pulled over by the law yesterday for a helmet violation.... Now mind you that DE doesn't require one to use a brain bucket, but I wear one anyway. Having said that you are wondering if I was in De at the time or why would the LAW pull me over is a bucket is not required and I'm wearing one...All great questions. Here goes the explanation: The LAWMAN says that you don’t need to wear a bucket in DE but if you do then it must have a DOT sticker on it. So I say “if you don’t need to wear a bucket in DE and you see someone riding down the street with a baseball cap on would you pull him over and tell him he needs to have a DOT sticker on it? He let me go with a warning, if I was to ride into MD or some other state that requires a bucket then my brain bucket would not be legal because it’s been painted and the DOT sticker is gone. Now what do you think of that?
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I live in NC and was told the HID H4 headlight and the led cluster turn signals are not DOT approved.Does this mean they are illegal and a LEO will pull you over?Why would they be illegal for bikes but not cars?
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Can anyone tell me if the CB antena wire unplugs from the base of the antena or not? I don't want to just pull on it in case it's an integral part of the antena.
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Hey guys, I just had my rear tire changed by a shop down the street from where I work( I dropped it off because I did not have time to pull off the tire myself). Since the tire was changed I have a rubbing/squeeking noise when the bike is pushed backwards and it is there a little when going forward. It sounds like it is definitely coming from where the diff connects to the tire. There is no clicking noise and I have looked at the brakes and it is not coming from there. I was wondering if anyone had any Idea what they could have screwed up between the diff and the tire. I cannot think of anything in there that could cause this. I also drained the rear end oil and it is clean so I don't think it is in the rear diff. I am going into work early tomorrow to pull the tire and I was hoping someone might give me a tip on what to look for. I have pulled the tire before and it went back together no problem, so i can't think of anything in there that could be out of place. everything on the outside looks good nut on shaft is tight and spacer is installed correctly on right side. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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I'm not that computer literate but I don't see how to post on the classifieds. My wife has a 750 virago that we're considering selling or trading to a pull behind pop-up. Any help would be appreciated. TIA, Eddie:puzzled:
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How do you adjust the timing if it's needed? The manual tells how to check it but not how to adjust it. I assume you need to pull the flywheel off to make any adjustments. Or at least pull the sidecover off if you can make adjustments through the flywheel. But I kind of dought that. Anybody have any pics? I've been having some pinging lately when under a load. Not sure if I got some bad gas when I went to the Dells this weekend. I'll try some high grade stuff from one of my normal stops before making any changes to anything though.
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Got the carbs back on my bike and have a little line-up question. pushing down on 1 and 4 they sit solid. Pushing on 2 and three I can rock them almost 1/4 inch. Never noticed this before. Am I just looking for more problems on this thing or is this acceptable? Can't see anything in the way. These things are a bear for me hooking up cables. Really don't want to pull them again.
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these V4 makes a great water pump , i can pump out my rad. in 8 miles rite out the ex. pipe :bawling:also it is very hard to remove a motor from from the parts bike with the wheels off [ front headers ] , i have pulled the motor mounts , drive shaft , all the wires and cables , carbs , do i have to pull the U joint ? doe's it slide out the rite side ? how come nobody said how heavy these V4s are ? it weighs more than a V8 !!! will maybe i can get the left header off tonite , when i pull the bad motor out , the wheels are staying on !! -
I'm going to up grade the stock headlight bulb with a new Silverstar bulb. My question is when I reach the bulb in the back of the headlight, does it just pull out or do you have to give it a twist? Does it help to wear plastic gloves when handling the bulb? Thanks, BigD
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Got my bike back yesterday after being gone 3 days to have warranty work done on the exhaust Y's and the inner fairing replaced due to broken tabs. When I first picked it up the radio would not come on. Turned around and brought it right back and watched them pull the outer fairing and just giggle the wires and it came back on. They said it was a loose connection. I started home and realized I had to turn the radio up louder than usual to hear it so I'm thinking maybe the amp is not connected correctly. Called the dealership and they want me to bring it back and can't tell me which connectors are radio related. Anyone here know so I can just pull it apart myself? Plan on checking all the connections but figured it might be nice to know exactly which ones to pay attention to. Thanks.
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Just got my bike running and can now tell that there is a problem with the clutch. It has had a squeak as long as I have had the bike but was unable to tell where it was and what was causing it. My clutch had started to slip so I put two flex plates in the clutch to stiffen it up and now I can tell that the squeak is coming form the clutch area. With the clutch released, the squeak is real loud, but when you pull the clutch lever, the squeak goes away almost completely. Any Idea what is causing it and how hard to fix it will be? All help will be appreciated. Thanks
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This website is great. I happened to come across this doing a search for a part i'm needing. Reading the threads, all the information that is offered. Wow! I just bought a 1984 yamaha xvz12 1200cc venture. Still trying to get use to it. Never had a bike with a fairing on it. Gonna take some time to get use to it. Great bike. I have a problem. On the side cover. There is a clip that attaches the side cover to the frame on the bottom of the cover. It is black and it says the word pull on it. You pull it off the sidecover and let it down and pop off the cover. I looked at the schematics from different websites and can't seem to find the part on it. Can you advise. Thanks, Kevin
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just curious. how many of you "old warriors", carry one of these on your keychain? not good for anything, anymore, with ALL cans being "pull top's.
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Last weekend our grandson got gum all over the leather on the seats in our van. Didn't want to use some of the gum removers on the market not being sure how they would do on leather. Did a google search for gum removal tips, several tips out there, just have to pick the one that you want to use. The one I chose is "Scotch Tape", the actual brand of scotch tape is the one that was recommended. IT WORKS!!!! Takes a little time and about a complete roll depending on the amount of gum. Just put it on the gum, rub it in, and pull using a sideways or angle pull. This way there is no smell left and the gum is gone. Don H.
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I've been using 1 1/2" risers for a year now. I like the setup better than stock, but it still isn't quite what I want. I've thought about the G2's, but they are the same height as stock and I think I like the height the risers give me (I'm 6' 2"). I thought about putting the G2s on the risers. 1 1/2" more height and 2" more pull back. I would prefer to get rid of the risers, but that setup might give me what I want. Then I looked at the RSTD stock bars. 2" more in Height and 2 1/2" more pull back... and no risers. They are 2" wider also. Do they use the same bar weights? Here are the specs: [font=Arial] Height Width Pull Back Center RSV 6" 31" 14" 7.5" G2 6" 31.5" 16" 6" RSTD 8" 33" 16.5" 8" [/font] I'm thinking I would need to go 4" over on throttle cables, upper front brake hose and upper clutch hose. If I decided I didn't like it, would the extra hose/cable length be a problem if I left them on but went back to G2 or stock+risers? Anyone got a set of RSTD stock bars for cheap? I would like to throw a set on just to see how they look and feel on the bike before I lay out the money for cables and hoses. Any thoughts?
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I was reading my owners manual today and noticed a WARNING on pg 6-23 stating "This motorcycle is not designed to pull a trailer or to be attached to a sidecar" and "Yamaha cannot be held liable for any consequences caused by the use of items which have not been approved by Yamaha". I know several of you pull trailers with your bikes without any problems. I also had thought about building a trailer for mine but I have to ask, Should I wait until my warranty expires?
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OK, I've never replaced a pan gasket before, so I thought I'd ask the experts. After getting the exhaust and collector out of the way can I drop the pan, or am I just starting. Man.... I hope I don't have to pull the motor.....
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I see all these touring bikes pulling trailers these days, was wondering how much weight can you actually pull.? I have an 86 venture 1300 and am wondering if it could pull a trailer with a dirt/dual purpose bike on it..??
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OK folks...I need some input here. I've seen several discussions on setting the float levels. I'm NOT much good when it comes to carbs. I can sync them and etc. but am always nervous about getting inside them. So yesterday, in my unending search to figure out my gas mileage problem, I decided to pull the carbs and check the float levels and etc. Several of you, including Cougar, Pegscraper and some others have done this and have reported that it's not a big job. WHATEVER...it took me about 10 hours to pull the carbs, set the floats and get it all back together. To make it worse, I'm now thinking that I may have done it wrong and need to pull them off again. The manual says that you set the floats at about .32 with the floats resting on but not compressing the needle valve. So, does that mean that with the carbs upside down that you lift the floats with your finger so that the tang is touching the needle and that is when you measure? Unfortunately, I set them with the carbs upside down and the floats at rest, not me lifting on them. I'm attaching a picture. You will see in the picture that the near side is laying way up in the housing. The far side I have adjusted and it is at about .32 with it just sitting there. I think I did it wrong but please tell me for sure. Here's the deal. Yesterday morning I check all four cylinders using my Colortune. At most all RPMS I had the nice Bunsen blue color as I should but had intermittent flashes of yellow. According to the color tune booklet, that is a sign of floats set too high. That is why I pulled them off. Finally got it all back together last night about 9:00 and fired it up. Now I have a definite backfire, pop, miss or something from the right side. Now I have not synced them yet and will do so but I really don't see where adjusting the floats would through the sync off. So.......HELP.
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Jeff: Do you have to remove the left fairing just to get the carbs out??? While changing out the valve cover gasket on 'Bertha' I decided to go ahead and clean the carbs..Number 1 carb is running some of the time, backfires and cuts in and out. I have disconnected all cables except one, used a wood lever to pull the carb set out of the manifolds and I am stuck trying to get the 4 pack off the bike...Any thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks, Tommy from Cary
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How do you remove spark plug wires?
Vance posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
After removing the tank and dogbone, I went to pull up the spark plug cap on a front spark plug. I could pull it part way up before hitting interference from above, but not far enough up to clear the plug. I didn't want to force anything and kink the wire or break the cap, so I stopped there and put it all back together. How do you get the plug wire up far enough on those front plugs to allow access to change the plugs? What's your technique? -
Is there any way to reduce the force required to pull in the clutch lever? It just seems harder than it should. RR
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