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Showing results for tags 'power'.
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Last fall I had joined this site to get help with a problem and learn more about my new to me 2004 RSV. I had a problem with my RSV stumbling under a load and V7Goose gave me great advice on cleaning the carburetors and synchronizing the carburetors. I thought I had things working well, so I set out on a 3700 mile trip. On my way out things seemed good but after a couple days the problem returned. The engine vibrates badly under a load. This problem comes and goes; sometimes it would run ok and then others very bad. Most of my trip was at higher altitude and I thought maybe my problem was associated with that but it still did it on the way home. It acted worse in the heat but sometimes it would run ok in the heat. I ran in some rain and hail but most of the trip was dry. In 4th gear at 60mph it will still vibrate and in 5th gear at 70mph it vibrates if I ask for power. At 75mph trying to climb a slight grade on the expressway it struggles to maintain speed. This is a list of what I have done before the trip. 1) Removed carbs and cleaned 2) New spark plugs – twice 3) New spark plug caps – NGK only 5K ohms 4) Carb sync 5) Sea foam through tank. 6) New K&N air filters 7) New fuel filter If someone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. I really do like this bike, but this power plant I am unsure about. I may have never had it running good as I have never been impressed with the power, but my last bike was a GL1500 and that is what I am comparing it to. If I could just get this thing to run smooth I could deal with the fact it is less powerful than my old GL. Thanks in advance
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noticed my brake lights on trailer not working nor turn signals but had running lights. read all the forums but didnt run across my problem. checked power going into 5 to 4 connector under back seat and had all,everything right. checked power coming out and only had the running light wire hot. so bought a new 5 to 4 connector and installed it way and had power for a bit till i touch brown and green or something and had a spark while wiring trailer plug back up and now the outlet on the new connector is the same as old one, only running light wire hot.it blew a fuse[head] when i did that, can you fry the 5 to 4 connector that easy? for now i took connector off and wired brakes to red and running lights to brown right off bike wires so i at least have running lights and brakes.want to fix it right but need to know if that spark could take out my new $28.00 5 to 4 connector. help! before i spend $28.00 again and blow it.
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Need Advise: My parts source in Puyallup Wa did not have the Hazard SW nor the 41R Relay. So I'm into the wires. My turn signal and 4 way flashers are not working. I've cleaned all the related connectors and clean and tested the bulbs and sockets. 1) At the hazard sw connector the Bike side. When I turn the key on, I get power to the RED wire & Tan wire. When I use the turn signal for both turns still on the RED and TAN wires has power. Now I put the Hazard wire plug into the Bike end of the Hazard plug. 2) On the Hazard SW side of the plug the RED & TAN wires still has power. Inaddition the TAN/YELLOW wire now has power. Same when the Hazard SW is eithor ON or OFF. Nothing changes when I use the turn signals. 3) If I put the Hazard SW right in the middle of the OFF & ON, the TAN/YELLOW wire no longer has power. Just wondering what it would do. My knowledge of wireing is pretty basic. From this point I do not know what else to test for power. Any Suggestion. -
Not MC related but I found this very interesting. http://wardsauto.com/ar/thorium_power_car_110811/ Then there is this...notice the name of the car. Very fitting. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/01/13/not-in-detroit-cadillac-world-thorium-fuel-concept/
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I took a road trip to Augusta, Ga. and back this weekend (2 1/2 hrs one way). the bike has been running fine. While there I got rained on for a few minutes. But, on the way back it developed a little accleration ( I hesitate to call it a problem) more like an accleration surprise. While acclerating at cruising speed all of a sudden it would sputter a little bit then launch with a sudden burst of power that would lift the front wheel off the ground and launch the bike forward like it had NOS and someone flipped the switch. .......OMG was my first reaction. Thinking it might be carbureation on the next fill up I bought a can of seafoam and poured 1/2 a can in the tank to see I could clear out whatever partial blockage was in the carbs. Evidently there is some unrealized power potential in this bike I haven't witnessed before and I would like to figure out why and harness it full time. Today, riding to work and back I tried to duplicate the experience everytime I had some accleration room ahead of me so that I could watch what was going on closely. Everytime I was acclerating in any gear and the RPMs reached 4500 to 5000 it would launch up 1000 to 1500 rpm with an incrediable boost of power and seemed to keep going untill I backed off of the throttle. Does anyone know what might be causing this? -
So there I was geting rid of the YICS on my 83 and then I started to think, could the lines be hooked back up together in the same way as the Jason mode or along with the jason mode to help the low end power in any way ?
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Well here it is in a nutshell. The bike seems to be down on power and mpg. Thought at first I dropped a cylinder. Nope firing on all four. Was able to get into for a little yesterday. I checked spark on all plugs, idle dropped with every wire I pulled. Pulled the airbox and watched down the carbs as I revved it up, appears to have good fuel flow, maybe to much? If I was to get on it today I would just think it was normal and never work on it but knowing how much power is really has and what it is putting out now I think there is a problem. Any ideas? Shaun
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After 1500 miles on my new to me 99 Interstate, I have to say I love this bike. I thought the foot position would be a problem, but it has been surprising comfortable. It does have a mustang seat, great padding, but very little wiggle room, so I will be looking for a ultimate soon. The power on the bike is great, gas mileage was about 32, 29 when flying, but the power of the engine is awesome, great torque, no vibes, and stable at any speed! Not that I would have sped by any means... This bike is just short of perfect for me. New seat, highway pegs, and electric cruise control will just about finish it off. It has all the chrome save for the trunk rack, so that will be next along with a trailer hitch and trailer. It does need a carb sync, tires are new, and the bike had 8500 miles when I picked her up. She will also need new speakers in the near future. All in all, I would rate it a 8.5 out of 10. Thanks again Squid for the assistance in getting it.
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I have not started to look for the problem yet, but here are the symptoms. First off I have an 1985 royale with an 87 engine. Did the swap 4th of July weekend 2010 and the bike has run great. Now it starts and runs fine for cruising but when I get the rpms over 4500 it has no power. I used the carbs from the 1200 engine but with larger jets (same as the 1300 carbs would have). It has been running like this since I took it out this spring last year it ran fine. It seems like the timing is not advancing. Any suggestions would be great.
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Maybe it's just me, but my RSV runs sooooo much better after it's been cranked up to 70 - 80 mph for a little while. I ran the 230 miles up and back to Chattanooga today, and this bike just loves the high speeds on the interstate, and just felt like it had so much smooth power at the top end of 5th gear. I was already cruising at 75 when I needed to do a fast pass of an 18-wheeler, and when I hit the throttle, man it just flew in response. I really don't like interstate travel and don't do it much, so this feeling of power and acceleration isn't something I get to experience a lot. Is what I'm feeling at that speed related to ideal engine compression? I wish it performed that way at all speeds in all gears. What a rush! -
Any suggestion as to what and where to purchase. Mine is not a Royal and I bought one off Ebay that mounts between the grip and the power switch assembly - Problem is, on my bike the throttle grip and the power switch do not seperate so the bracket cannot fit between them. Thanks in advance. Roger -
I just replaced my left front and rear brake pads with EBC HH. Last year I put the HH in the right front. It did not need new pads, the old ones were only worn to about 50%. I can not believe the difference in stopping power that the rear brake now has. I can literally stop in half the distance that it took with the old pads. I was very concerned about stopping power with a trailer in tow. My concern was justified, I will feel much better with the trailer now.
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I need information as to how our triked '89 Venture Royale is going to react at mountain pass elevations exceeding 9000 ft. I know I will have some loss of power. Am I going to have to worry about overheating or burning a piston if I pay attention and take it easy?
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Found an old '49 Chevy pickup just wondering around on eBay and couldn't help but fall in love with it. Picked it up yesterday in Augusta Ga. and I am now visiting some friends in Raleigh NC. Heading out this morning for home. The truck was restored in the late '90s and still looks and drives real nice. It's old school with the old Chevy "Stovebolt Six" but has a late model 5 speed with an S-10 rear end and disk brakes. No power steering, no power brakes, no a/c and the radio don't work. So far I'm love'n it.
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My HID headlight came in Friday, from Canadian Custom Got out yesterday afternoon and installed it. The hardest part was getting the HID bulb in to the headlight bucket. I had to take the two bolts holding the frame in place, out, to get that long bulb installed. (note to self don't forget the rubber seal ring around the back of bucket!!!). Then where to mount the power supply? Well there is an empty flat place (looking AT the bike) on the left. Thinking double sided emblem mounting tape, but not sure of the heat. Really don't wanna drill holes in the fairing, so lemme call the expert! I guess great minds run in the same circles (Thanks Squid!!!). So I mounted it with the tape right in that spot. Since I already have a "fused" power wire run from the battery to a switch (that picture did not turn out) all I had to do was connect the large power supply wire for the HID light to that switch. Woo Hoo didn't have to pull the tank!!! I did run in to one "bump in the road", the red power supply wire pulled out of the fuse holder (insufficient crimping) that is supplied with the light kit. A quick trip to Autozone and that was taken care of. MAN, that sucker is BRIGHT!!! The pictures don't show it, but it makes the stock passing light bulbs look like yellow fog lights:(.
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I have a Streetpilot 2730 w/ the car adapter w/ one of those round speakers in the cable. I think one of my sons got ahold of it one day and hasn't worked right since. I would keep losing power. Well I took apart the speaker housing and there are 6 wires total. 2 to the speaker (I never cared for using the speaker), 2 to that outlet that is on the side of the speaker housing (have no idea what it is so I know I won't miss it) and the power and ground wires. I completly cutoff the 1st 4 mentioned wires so you can barely see them. This just left the power and ground wires exposed. I hardwired them into the bike and now the gps works great. There was plenty of length of wire from the Garmin harness so I was able to run it down by the fork, under the tank and next to the battery where I already had a fuse box I installed a couple years ago and pick your own spot for ground. All in all it was free and I didn't have to spend $30+ for the motorcycle wire kit.
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maybe someone here can help me i have a little spark for the front two cylinders back two are running fine tried sea-foam still on the first tank with sea-foam plenty of power going through the gears any ideas????
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Well folks - it's that time of year again when me and my brothers spend a few days travelling to meet up, sink a few coldies, barbecue a few steaks and generally chill out. This is the seventh (consecutive) year we've done it, but this year is different and special - because our only sister is joining us. I've posted details, photos and video links in the past and this year will be no different. When I get back I'll flick you a few foters. In the mean time - brief details are - over 4 days we'll do around 1600kms (1,000 miles) each to get to our destination at Brunswick Heads on the north coast of New South Wales - and turn around after 2 days there and head home again. Who cares how far it is? It's not the destination but the ride that matters, eh? Meantime, I've made a few mods to the RSV so I can run my GPS, mobile phone and MP3 player (and still have power to spare.) I bought one of those 12V plug in gizmos that has 3 12V sockets and a USB outlet. Secured it to the top of my brake fluid canister on the right bar - using a couple of cable ties. The GPS is attached to the screen, with gaffer tape 'reinforcing'. My little 4GB MP3 player clips on to the power lead for the GPS. It's connected to the power supply by a USB lead and the earphone outlet is connected to the radio system via the Auxiliary MP3 jack. My mobile phone is in a pouch that is secured by velcro to the right side mirror stem. I've taken a photo of the set-up so you can see what I'm talking about. Catch you all back here in 4 or 5 days. Cheers, Spear
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Opinions on this... I have : - passing lights (relay to battery, on/off switch on fairing) - Stebel Horn w/bracket and wiring harness with relay - 5 to 4 wiring converter/isolator (Reese - requires power) - trunk wing (doesn't require power but wiring is in there too) Connecting the bike's positive power cable plus 3 others and it was getting pretty messy on the battery post. Couldn't find a small enough (and covered) "power bar" so I kind of made my own. Used 16 gauge wire with eyes/rings on both ends and slipped it and the other wires (with eyes/rings) onto a bolt and put a nut on it to hold it secure (you can see it sitting on top of the battery wrapped in electrical tape). Each accessory using power is fused. I figure the 16 gauge wire from the battery should be enough to carry the load from the three devices requiring power. This a good way to do it or bad? Comments?
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Bought a new 2009 RSV in June of 09 off the showroom floor. It ran OK but felt no where near the power I had when I rode my 06 RSV. I took it in the summer of 2010 and asked the dealer about low power. They shimmed the carbs and I rode off and it still lacked the power I had in the 2006. I was gone away most last year with work and didn't ride much. This year while in an email conversation with a fellow VentureRider in Canada he suggested a set of K&N filters. I ordered a set and installed them this week I can't believe the difference! It's unbelievable a set of air filters will make it run stronger, I knew I had a carb problem but never dreamed the stock air filters were holding back that much air. I don't know if others will benefit from this simple upgrade but I couldn't be happier and highly recommend K&N filters. Thanks Randy
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My nephew bought an 86 Nissan pickup. Starts right up and drives good. The problem is it has NO power. when you punch it it just falls on its face. I changed the plugs, wires, rotor cap, distributor cap, air filter, fuel filter, sea foamed it, and reset the timing. Now the lady he got it from said that she had just put this engine in, also said this engine had a ton of power in the donor truck and when her mechanic put it in this truck it had none. Any ideas? This thing will not even get to 60 mph. Shaun
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I hope someone can help me. I have a 2004 RSV and I need to wire my gps. I don't have a owners manual. I would like the gps to have power only while the key is "on". Where is the best place to run the wires. Thanks.
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I need to know how to properly diagnose a bad ignition coil. For a while I have had a vibration mainly under load and feel I loose power at the top end where everyone is bragging of all kinds of power. It feels like when I rev it up that its just not all there. I currently have Iridium plugs in there but am not impressed and am going back to regular NGKs. Ive thought about changing to after market coils and wires but dont want to change if it will do me no good. So how do I find out if I have a problem? -
Ed, a MARINE CORP friend of mine ask what my opinion of a ultralite name of Challenger made in Canada was. To be entirely fair, in GA, ultralights are generally frowned upon. My impression is the the alerion and rudder is inadaqiate and the placement of the 40 hp. rotax engine is also asking for trouble. The placenment of the engie, screws up the CG of the aircraft. Under full power, It also overides the up motion of the yoke which under emergency power on could be detrimental to your health. Since it doesn't have alerions, "flaperions" , a moderate to heavy cross wind cannot be corrected. MaxVE is 100 mph? Sorry but if your practicin stalls and spin adversion that ain't gonna cut it. Engin failures require immediate push overs to avoid flat spins due to placement of engine. Anybody have one of these ? Am I being overly bias?
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Looking for someone to give me some insight as to why there is a Dynojet Power Commander for Roadliners up to 2008 and then a different one for 09 and 10 model years. I would really like to know if the one listed for models through 08 would work on my 09. I bought one without knowing there was a difference.
