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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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well it apears that the final drive on my 91 vr is giving up its innards. Its making the dreaded howl when you let off the throttle. Kinda sounds like a dump trunk thats using the engine as a break. Does anybody have one that will fit they are willing to let go of. I have already talked to muffinman as to weather or not its the final or something else. I had the rear end and axle and drive shaft greased at the dealor and it didnt help. They even agreed that it was the final but no way Im paying $1500 for them to rebuild it.. anyways any help will be apreciated. Even if its ideas to check instead of replacement. Im even thinking of pulling the rear tire myself to regrease it . I have no idea what Im doing but Im sure with the help of this site and great members I can figure it out. Thanks in advance, David -
Yes that's right front master cylender went leeked brake fluid on right side pocket lid so im setting around 80 miles north of dealer called them and they have some one fly in the new parts for tomarrow so I will have to drive it there hauling the trailer in the AM. Oh did I mention my phone took a dump to. Called them yesterday FED-X should be here any time with my tenth yes that's right # ten. Droid sucks phone:doh: Dray
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well, i have close to 300 miles on my liner and thought i would share the pros and cons. this bike is one of yamahas best kept secrets. why they don't push and advertise some of there really good models more is a mystery to me. this has to be one of the best v-twin platforms ever for the ultimate touring bike. as archaic that i thought the engine was in this age of high tech engineering. it is one well engineered drive train package. it has the broadest powerband of any bike i have ever rode. stump puller off idle and just keeps on pulling. the transmission is smooth as glass with short throw, and positive engagemant. low speed parking lot handling is the best of any bike i have ever rode. it has an ultra low center of gravity, and perfect steering geometry. the high speed handling is excellent. the frame is rock solid with no flex or wallowing when pushed hard in the twisties. i felt at times i could drag my elbows. well almost, a guy can dream can't he. lol. the fit and finish is impeccable with just the right amount of chrome. it has a near 50-50 weight distribution front to rear. the dealer in indy just called and asked if i was satified. i dug down deep for the cons and here is all i could muster up. the wind shield sucks. too tall, and some buffeting on the high way. i will cut about 2" off and make some lowers to cure that. there is a mild vibration around 65-70 mph that may annoy some , but it is overall very smooth for a v-twin of this size. there is some engine and drive train noise at lower speeds that is greatly amplified by the wind shield. i think most of it is drive belt howl. the belt sounds a bit tight, from my previous experience with belt drives. i will check it. the ergonomics are fairly good. the driver seat so far seems very good. i have long arms and the bars are on the edge of being a bit to far forward to reach. overall i was very impressed with this bike and i just love it. i think with a trunk and the rest of the normal touring luxuries yamaha would have one hot touring bike to meet the competition, till they come out with their detuned v-max powered flagship tourer. i still think that is their plan if the economy ever picks up. by the way this strat s is one georgeous machine. bill
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Got my new to me 2000 with 31k last fall and am needing to check valves and a carb sync (anyone in the area that may be able to help with the sync). Do you think these things could help with the little bit of popping I have on downshift. I also have been getting 32-35mpg no matter how i drive. I am one who likes speed but even when i have tried to drive easy 35mpg is all. Would there be more of a carb issue than the sync, etc. Thanks for your thoughts, Larry
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Looking for soem upgradesalthough when I first got the RSTC i said i wouldnt change anything. Well I guess Im just a guy and want improvemenmts. SO who has done the vmax rear drive swap ? What is needed besides the rear. What year rear should be used and any mods have to be done? Fuel milage vs passing power . Is it peppier?
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I am a less than a year member of this site(Its been Great). I will be leaving home tomorrow (If weather Permits), from Southeast Missouri and going to the Cincinnati area(to see my son). I have a 2006 rstd with 7800miles on it and would like some help syncing the carbs. I would gladly drive out of route to get this done and I would make it worth the time. Thanks if you can help.....The bike runs great, but I am having a little vibe in floor boards and tank. Thanks Larry:cool10::cool10:
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What type and brand of oil is everyone using in their final drive? Can you use a multi viscosity oil? I had a difficult time finding SAE 80 GL-4.
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Hi All, Just wanted to get aquainted with everyone so that as I go through my project and ask for help you'll know what I'm up to. A couple er 3 years ago I started a project to put a Venture drive train and electronics into a legend's race car. Not just a standard legend but one that would have two seats and be registered for the road. Fast forward to now,,,,,,The frame has been widened and is complete, the body has been widened and is mostly complete except for the hood and grille. The rearend is installed with a 4link. The engine/trans is mounted but not yet connected to the drive shaft. The current project is the exhaust. We intend to run them into side pipes. The two biggest projects left is an offset drive between the trans and the drive shaft to reverse the direction of rotation and to get the output back to the center of the vehicle to line up with the drive shaft and of course the electrical system. I intend to incorperate the complete electrical system from the bike into the car including the dash board/speedometer, stereo, CB etc. At the moment I don't have any pictures handy but I'll try and get some posted later. Thanks in advance for allowing me to lean on your knowledge as I'm sure I will as I attempt to get this project going. TR
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On the Gen II is the swing arm adjustable left to right? I have installed a Tri Wing trike kit and when the drive shaft is lined up, the diff is offset about 1-1/8".
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Hi everyone first time posting here. I got a question? I have a 06 midnight venture with around 26000 miles on it and the more I drive it I notice a popping sound coming from the drive line only when im backing it out of my shead. Now it stops when I ride it a few miles and it dont seem to hurt anything? But when its been sitting a few days it pops alot when i back it out? I checked the rear end and it all looks good there. So any comments or sugestions would help. Be cool and ride ride ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -
Are there any members here that own a spyder? Tina and I are thinking of getting one and were wondering what peoples opinions were. So far the reviews are all pretty positive. We are heading to Pioneer Motorsports tomorrow to test drive one since they have been so good to us Ventureriders. Any opinions will be appreciated Thanks Mike and T
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I live in the hampton rhoads area of VA and I was curious if there was anyone else with a venture that live around this area that would possibly want to meet up and ride sometime? Or if there were goin to be any rides anywhere near here. I looked on the calender and saw the meet and eat in greensboro and as of now am not sure if I would be wanting to drive that far yet, but who knows by that time things may have changed. Thanks everyone for your help and support, I appreciate all of you and the help you give.
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Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike -
I'm looking for someone near Spencer, Ny that could look at a car for me. My daughter found a car she likes, but, it's in Spencer,Ny and we're in Michigan. If anyone could maybe test drive and look it over we'd be most greatful. Thanks, Jay
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Rear end trouble...need advice HELP
CMIKE posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Saturday we rode down to Hammond LA to eat some crawfish, It was a spur of the moment day trip, there and back. Crawfish were good but kinda expensive. On the way back...the I noticed the normal SCREAM seemed to get louder. The closer I got to the house, it was almost unbearable...you really need ear plugs now.:puzzled::puzzled: When I got home I parked it outside the shop to let it cool off before putting it in the shed and noticed a puddle of oil about 2" round under it when I moved it into the shop. It smelled like gear oil. Got to looking...oil all over the rear wheel and tire...and some on the frame under the bike. Today I got a chance to tear it down to see what is going on...looks like it was leaking oil at the flange where the pumpkin connects to the drive shaft tube. Yep the seal on the drive shaft is toast but it was replaced not to long ago during a tire change. Pulled the pumpkin off and the cup where the drive shaft slips into seems very loose. Like maybe the outer pinion bearing is gone. It seems it has about 1/8" slack in it. I think on the drawings it is called the gear coupling. About how much slack should be in the Gear Coupling. I do not remember any slack there in the past but maybe I am wrong. I need somebody to tell me what they remember on their final drive. I already called a dealer and he said bring it...but wouldn't you know this would happen in the best time of the year to ride. HELP me out with some advice -
With a little time to spare before work today I decided to start the job to pull the final drive and lube the drive shaft. In a matter of two hours I was able to pull the tire, remove, clean, moly and reinstall the hub. Pull the final drive and drive shaft clean her up, moly it and reinstall it. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was. Guess I’ll be putting this job on the yearly to do list.
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Having searched the tech section, I just want to clarify something. Having greased the splines on the end of the drive shaft I've gone to insert it back in the drive shaft tube. After a little jiggle it went in and i was able to loosly fit the four acorn nuts prior to doing the alignment process as reccommended in the tech section. My question is (probably a dumb one) is, is it possible for the end of this shaft to miss its connnection with the UJ and simply lay in the bottom of the tube? I think its gone in but not sure. Cheers
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Randya started discussing ratios in the following thread. This was regarding some work he is doing to his bike this winter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?postid=551974#post551974 I thought I would start a new thread along these lines hoping to give a little better understanding to where all those ratio numbers come from. I confuse easily, so here is same info in a different format. All numbers are from the corresponding bikes service manuals. 1st Gen Ratios (From 1986 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 39/15 (2.600) 2nd 39/22 (1.772) 3rd 31/23 (1.347) 4th 31/29 (1.068) 5th 29/32 (0.906) Royal Star Ratios (From 1996 Service Manual) Primary reduction 85/51 (1.666) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 39/16 (2.437) 2nd 30/19 (1.578) 3rd 29/25 (1.160) 4th 29/32 (0.906) 5th 21/28 (0.750) RSV Ratios (From 1999 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 43/17 (2.529) 2nd 31/19 (1.632) 3rd 30/25 (1.200) 4th 24/25 (0.960) 5th 22/28 (0.786) 1st Gen VMax Ratios (From 1995 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/9 (3.667) -- Total Reduction (2.851) 1st 43/17 (2.529) 2nd 39/22 (1.772) 3rd 31/23 (1.347) 4th 28/26 (1.076) 5th 26/28 (0.928) The primary gear reduction is between the crankshaft and the clutch pack. The secondary gear reduction is from the middle drive through the rear axle gear case. All of the gear reductions first list the driven gear # of teeth, followed by the drive gear # of teeth, this ratio is then shown last. For a given comparison between the four bikes listed, the higher the ratio number, the more acceleration & low end power the bike will have. Lower numbers translate into higher speed. This is when comparing the same point in the drive train. In the case of the secondary gear reduction, there are 2 sets of gears. 1st is the middle drive set, followed by the rear axle drive set. The secondary gear sets also accomplish the task of taking the engine/transmission rotation and turning it first 90 degrees to attach to the drive shaft, then 90 degrees again to drive the rear wheel. In the case of the Vmax, the power increase that is often discussed in the rear axle gears. These gears have 9 teeth on the drive gear and 33 teeth on the driven gear.The 1st and 2nd Gen Ventures and the Royal Star all have 10 teeth on the drive gear and 33 teeth on the driven gear. The VMax ratio provides for more acceleration and low end power, but sacrifices top end speed. Three bikes, 1st Gen, RSV & VMax have the same primary gear ratio, and middle gear ratio. The difference is in the transmission & rear axle drive ratios. The Royal Star also has a different primary ratio in addition to the transmission & rear axle drive ratios. What this all translates to as it moves through the drive train is shown next. 1st picture shows inside of clutch housing looking up and forward towards the gear on the end of the crankshaft. Only the back quadrant of the gear can be seen. This gear is on the center line of the drive shaft, on right side. This gear mates to the clutch pack seen in next picture. The clutch pack provides a means of interrupting the flow of power to the transmission. The friction discs in the clutch pack are connected to the outer clutch housing, which has the larger gear seen at the bottom of the clutch pack. The steel plates are attached to the inner clutch boss. When the clutch lever is depressed, these two sets of plates allow the motor to rotate, while the transmission is not turning. The shaft that is in the center of the 1st picture is the main axle shaft of the transmission. [ATTACH]53660[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53661[/ATTACH] The 3rd & 4th pictures are of the transmission assembly. 3rd picture is of a 1st gen main & drive axle assembly. Top is main axle, gears left to right are 5th, 2nd 3rd, 4th, 1st. Bottom is drive axle, gears left to right are Middle Drive gear (Bevel cut, Helical gear), 5th (machined on shaft), 2nd 3rd, 4th, 1st. 4th picture is a cut from the 1st gen VMax service manual showing these in the lower motor case. [ATTACH]53662[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53663[/ATTACH] 5th picture is of rear axle gear case. Drive shaft attaches on left side and drives another set of bevel cut, helical gears. Drive gear is inside case. 6th picture shows driven ring gear. [ATTACH]53665[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53664[/ATTACH] Gary
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A new soldier was on sentry duty at the main gate. His orders were clear. No car was to enter unless it had a special sticker on the windshield. A big Army car came up with a general seated in the back. The sentry said, "Halt, who goes there?" The chauffeur, a corporal, says, "General Wheeler." "I'm sorry, I can't let you through. You've got to have a sticker on the windshield." The general said, "Drive on!" The sentry said, "Hold it! You really can't come through. I have orders to shoot if you try driving in without a sticker." The general repeated, "I'm telling you, son, drive on!" The sentry walked up to the rear window and said, "General, I'm new at this. Do I shoot you or the the driver?"
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I'm not familiar with ATV's (4 wheeler), so I've been looking to buy a used ATV, but would like to know from an owners experience what the best bang for the buck is. I'm looking for something between 400-650cc for trails, for cruising along on a frozen lake, general use, etc... Preferably a 4 wheel drive, locking front axle and still hopefully light enough to pull out of a bog. Maybe around 2-4k? What makes, years, models, mileage, etc should I stay away from? Any thoughts / guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
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The near impossible happened Christmas day to many of us in the SE, and that meant a lot of snow (last snow on Christmas locally was 1947). I have no problem with it since I am originally from Nebraska, but the locals want to drive just as fast as in the summer heat. We have had lots of wrecks and injuries. I for one just stayed home Sunday.
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Have a Merry Christmas, but remember.... Don't Drink and Drive http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=Z2mf8DtWWd8
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This was sent to me by Dano by email. Looks like a lot of fun but this guy can certainly drive. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=4TshFWSsrn8&vq=medium
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Well, it seems everytime one of my buddies comes up with a crazy, hair brain idea they end up coming to me. I must have a rep as a nut job to be targeted like this. Well, yeah, done some odd things myself. I'm gonna need all the advise I can get on this one. So here's the deal. Buddy used to hill climb Yammy Y2's that he stretched out. He's getting back into it and he's shooting to do the 600cc 2 stroke class. Sounds simple right? Buy a 600cc 2 stroke and stretch it. Simple. Nope. Not this guy. He's found a sled engine, a Rotax 570 that pushes 105 hp. He's got a couple of frames that it will fit into nicely. The deal is.....the drive system is the dual centifigul clutch/pulley set up from the sled. Get the picture? So.... the drafting of a plan is on the board to find a way to go to a single clutch/belt drive to more than likely a jackshaft to convert to chain drive to the rear wheel. In my mind....too much HP would be lost through a jackshaft setup. Not to mention the issues of tenisoning the belt from clutch to jackshaft. My thought is to use a single notched belt from the centrifigul clutch to a notched hub pulley on the rear wheel. Tension adjustment would be simpler and less power loss. Now I might mention the last time I messed with centifigul clutches was when I built my first mini bike. I see this working but it's going to take some creative engineering to pull it off. But like it has been said here before......Nothing is impossible. Anybody care to throw some ideas out this way? Mike
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ABOUT 10" SO FAR. THE'RE CALLING FOR ANOTHER 8 OR SO BY THE MORNING. ...DID MY DRIVEWAY TWICE THIS AFTERNOON AND ITS NOT LETTING UP !!! TATERS AND I HAD TO GO TO A WAKE THIS EVENING...WHAT A NASTY DRIVE EVEN IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE.....JUST PLAIN DANGEROUS OUT THERE...DID I EVER TELL YOU GUYS HOW MUCH I HATE WINTER. ................................ JUST HAD TO VENT
