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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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I need you expertise! Could someone please direct me to a schematic that explains the workings of the first generation carbs. An exploded diagram for these particular models with an explanation would be helpful. I was hoping to find a thread with photos of a carb overhaul. I would like to understand a little bit more about what is going on. There are a lot of small holes and orifices that seem to serve similar roles. My current problem is as follows. I removed and cleaned the carbs and have cured my rough acceleration problem. Now, any adjustment to the pilot screw on just one carb makes no difference. Closing the pilot screw all the way on the other carbs causes the engine to stumble while any adjustment on this one carb makes no difference - the engine runs regardless of setting. I guess where I am a bit unsure is the role played by the other small orifices and their routing Thank you.
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Any one near Raleigh have the carb sync tool and wouldn't mind helping/showing me how to sync the carbs on a 08 venture. Let me know Thanks, Melvin
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the verdict is in on carb sync rpm's... i usually set mine at fast rpm 2000-2500 and it always ran great and got good mpg's 39-43. so after reading some threads about doing it at 1000 rpm i tried that and well my mpg's kinda sucked, 35-38 was all i could get. so i went back to hi rpm sync and went back to 42mpg on the first tank. i figure 90% of my riding is hiway at 65 mph so why not set carbs to that.. i will admit the throttle response was a bit better at 1000 rpm but top end and fuel mileage suffered. anywho for what its worth those are my results. all thats on 89 octane.
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Hello, After four years not running I have scraped together enough time and money to get my 84 Royale running if I buy one set of carb gaskets and cut the rest by hand. (3 kids in college) I am wondering were I might get the best price on a single set of carb gaskets *and* a single vacuum piston (buddy who is helping called it a 'slider'). Thanks very much. Mitch & Kim Graves 118 S Fillmore St Edwardsville IL 62025 -
Is there anyone around South East Iowa that has some carb sinc tools that is willing to help out with my carbs? Thank You, Shaun
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For the past few years I have conducted a special pre-maintenance day clinic on the Friday before the official Maintenance Day at Don's in Ohio. If I remember correctly, last year we demonstrated how to do a valve adjustment on the 2nd gen, and the year before we did a carb float clinic. So for all those who are considering showing up a day early, I'm taking suggestions on what we should do for the Friday clinic this year. Goose
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I am fixing up a Cavalcade and the carbs were leaking. I ordered seals for the float bowls but not o-rings for another part. Can I get o-rings from a hardware or auto parts store or do I need to get them from a Suzuki dealer? I am new to carb work.
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hey guys i need some help,i have the manual but it doesnt show or tell what i want,1st off mine is an 84 venture xvz1200 and there is one screw around the cable adjustment on the drivers left side what is it for? and then there are 2 screws in the same area on the right side,what are those? and if possible how to adjust all 3 cause until i can afford to get the carbs synced i need to adjust my idle cause it is to low and fluxuates a little to much,one of the guys here told me that there was a round screw knob around carb 2 but mine doesnt have one, so please help all u can with these 3 thnx and i have pics of the 3 i will try to add here but if not email me and i`ll send em to ya thnx troy -
When screwing in the Carb Bowl screw how far does one tighten. Just when you feel the spring tention, or all the way in until it stops or somewhere inbetween? From the center of the diaphram cover one goes straight down and the screw is in a long tunnel.
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Ok don't shoot the messenger but: Looking for a way to clean carbs and ensure jets are clear without taking carbs off... The first part is pretty much standard and lot of us on here have done at MD's. Take tank and top center air box off. Drain carbs, open 4 drain screws then close. If you take fuel line off at center rear of carbs and spray full, this will effectively place cleaner in all your carbs. let sit 30 min. drain carbs, open drain screws. (leave open) ---part I would like to add--- Take diaphram(s) and needle slides out. Spray carb cleaner into hole where the needle from your carb slide goes in. It should be your high speed jet? Spray carb cleaner into small hole inside top of carb. It should be your pilot jet? Spray carb cleaner into hole at the "T" sections of your carbs will be your overflows. Close your drain screws. Am I missing something? Can anyone add or correct any assumptions I have just made? V7goose , skydoc_17 , freebird, anyone... -
I have a 1983 venture it will idle on 3&4 only is this right or does it need to idle on all 4 cyl if not right anyone know what i need to do
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So, my 87 project is running a bit rough so I do what any shadetree guy would do and I look down the carbs when the bike is running. I noticed that all the slides are vibrating at different rates with some more active than others. It this a balance thing? Might be shot diaphragms but on a machine this old as soon as I open the carb covers to check for pinholes the diaphragms will be shot because I opened up the chambers. Is there a visual diagnostic other than pulling the slides that indicates diapgragm condition? Letting sleeping dogs lie and all that... -
Hey guys. jose here with my 96 rstd. I just purchased this bike 3 weeks ago. The bike had a hard time rolling when cold and also popping at idle and decel. I decided to adjust the valves and clean the carb. All intakes were tight at 27,600k miles exhaust were fine. Plugs looked good and I changed them anyway. The carbs had some gunk build up. Everything back together and the bike pulls like a monster but i get popping through the pipes at Idle. Accel and lots of popping on decel. My lil bit of experience tells me this is a rich condition allowing raw fuel in the pipes which get ignited by the heat and there fore make a popping sound in the pipes. Question if i am correct is.How do I lean this out a bit to get her running better. the bke was bought with aftermarket louder pipes. not sure the make of pipes. the baffle are still in and yet it sounds pretty loud. I have yet to spray carb cleaner by the intakes to see if any change in RPm which is what i read to do to locate and intake leak. does anyone have a pic of the pilot screws. I looked for the caps and think i found the holes to be drilled out but I am not sure http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh221/muaymendez/tag%20o%20rama/SDC10352.jpg -
Hi folks.. I had picked up a new carb synch gauge, the four dials one.. And used it on the bike today.. I already have the carb tune with the rods that bounce up and down but the 4 dials gauge came at a super good price so why not. Wow, that was easy to set up and quicker to balance the carbs.. Maybe TOO easy? If I may pose a few questions to those who are experienced with this type of gauge. In regards to the little restrictors, how much do you close these off? They have to be open to a certain amount to let the vacuum do it's job, but too much and the needles bounce like crazy, too little and you wont get an accurate reading.. I did mine where the needles bounce between two indicator points.. to me this seemed like the best amount of bounce to go with? As you can see in the photo, the needles are bouncing pretty well spot on across the board.. When I started they were up and down a few notches but a few turns of the screw driver and everything balanced in nicely. I don't know why I feel this was much easier than the Carb Tune? Did I get this right for the amount of restriction to put on the valves? Cheers
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Carb sync question? Now before yesterday I haven't done it, and found it to be really easy with the carbtune First experience with that too, great product. Now for the question of the day. Not having a tach, but a 9/8's deaf ear,,, I set the idle with the idle set on the right side to what I thought was or felt like 1000R's +- of course. Preceded with the sync, which went well. During one of the rev-up blips I noticed that the tubes would rise to the top, and stop at about 3/4, then fall back to where they were. So just for the heck of it I held what I thought was between 2500 & 300 and looked at the carbtune. It was rock steady, and indicated that #3 & #4 were a bit higher than the left side ??? ( I was having a little trouble getting them together ) So I run the set up to about that level of RPM's. Then adjusted the right side, and resync'd the four to flat. Took about 1 min for that. Dropped it back down to 1000+- and did the Blip, several times, and they were flat and even. Any thought here on that. It ran well for the test ride, but it was seemingly running well before the sync, and after I got all 4 hitting again.
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Carb or coil????? About three weeks ago I rode the Venture, and all was well. Last week I rode it in to work, and it just didn't have any power,,, When I got to the shop I felt of the pipe covers at the engine, and found that the front left was cold as a cumber. Thought junk in the carb. Got it home and drained the bowl, and there was a very small amount of tinny trash,,,, OK I re charged the carb, and drained it two or three times, and it was clear. Kool.. Ran it for about 20 minutes,, and all seemed good to go all pipes good and HOT. Took it out for a test, and crap still no power, and back firing. Took the tank off and the dog bone to check the plug ( new only 1500 or so on them ) While I had it out thought I would look at the spark. The plug had spark, but I don't know if it is a good spark. I also saw leakage spark coming off the wire just above the boot,,, Not sure if that is good or not. Put the plug back in, and turned off the lights, and started it up. Seems to run great at idle, and no leak ( I could see ) on the wire with plug installed. Big time confused on which way to go now. Can the wire be replaced or it it a coil change, and can a coil break down under power, but seem good at idle. Carb In other words HELP!!!!
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I was changing the plugs and putting in new air filters and noticed something I had bever seen and was wondering what it might be. On the right side of the bike right behind the rear carb there is a small tube that runs from right side torwards the left side. It is moounted on the back side of the carb and has a little knob on it that you can rotate. Does anyone know what it is for?
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My searching skills may need some work, but I can't find it. Can someone post the instructions on how to do a carb sync on a 2nd Gen. Please keep in mind my mechanical ability is such that the instructions really need to be written in crayon. Thanks!
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since the carb covers are nolonger avalible was wondering if anyone could make a poster board pattern for me and i will try to make some out of polished aluminum thanks bill
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I have a set of carbs that are squeeky clean will they fit an 86 ?
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just got the lower end back together on the engine. billet rod, and new cam with a little more duration, and lift. next is the head. i usually port my own heads. but this time i bought a new one that is milled .100", ported and flowed, heavier springs, and a three angle valve job. i never realized there was so much available for these honda motors till i searched the net.. right now i,m up in the air on the carb. i am considering a 34 mm mikuni flat side. because the intake port is huge. i really wanted a smaller carb for lowend torque. i'm also considering roller rocker arms. only have 3 months before the arkansas spring cushman meet so i need to get my butt in gear.
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I know this was a big deal when I had my old '86 1st Gen, but some of our 2nd Gens are getting 10 + years of age on them. Are we seeing the same issues with the carb diaphragms on these bikes as we did the 1st Gens? If not, why?
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I have a 1996 Royal Star that I bought two summers ago .The bike has always had an issue with backfiring from no.3 cylinder on cold startup and that pipe is slow to warm up. I thought it may be a bad coil but when I swapped two coils around the problem stayed on that same cylinder. The bike is away for the winter so I decided to pull the carbs and when I did I found that the no.3 carb was not seated properly into the boot. The boot was bent in on one side and likely causing a vacuum leak. This may have been the problem but I decided I would check the float levels and jets while I had the carbs off. The previous ower said he had rejetted when he installed a K&N filter and as far as I know that is the only mod he has done. It still has the stock pipes and no signs of any drilling of the baffles. I read the article about rejetting in the tech section and they changed the pilot jets to 17.5 from 15 and the main jets to 125,125,120 and 122.5. The pilot jets in mine are stamped R,followed by a square,20 and all the main jets are stamped R,followed by a square, 95. The bike always ran well but these jet sizes are different from anything I have read and I don`t know what the previous owner was trying to accomplish. Should I be changing these back to the stock sizes or at least the sizes shown in the tech article for optimum performance. Any comments would be appreciated. Doug
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I have posted on this in the past, but thought I would update the info with a fresh post since I just revisited the settings on QuickSilver. Factory settings on the mixture screws seem to always be extra lean - somewhere around 2.5 - 3 turns out, if I remember correctly (I always check this and write it down for the carbs I work on, but then I give the notes to the owner and do not keep them myself for reference!). This lean setting is not too surprising with the current state of emission regulations, but I do find it strange that Yamaha's published spec for CO on this engine is MUCH richer than they come set from the factory. I have a tendancy to believe that a manufacturer should actually set up the machine to match their own published specs, but Yamahaha both sets their floats WAY higher than the spec and the mixture leaner than the spec. Although I do have an exhaust gas CO analyzer, I rarely use it because it is tedious and a PIA. I have found that I can get excellent results by simply tuning each carb for max RPM. I have also tried the Colortune, but I find that tool a sad joke. The published CO% for this engine is: #1 & #3 = 2.5-3.5% #2 & #4 = 3.5-4.5% For reference, here are the settings I have found on my RSV - Using the max RPM method, I still end up with settings that are slightly too lean, especially for the front cylinders. Typically this method leaves the screw about 3.5 turns out, and that is what I would recommend as a starting point for someone looking for that info. Using the CO analyzer, I get about 3% with the screws set somewhere between 4 and 5 turns out, and pushing the front cylinders all the way up to 4% CO requires a full SIX turns out! Six turns out seems like a huge amount, but I have used the analyzer on this bike twice (two years apart), and the settings I ended up with are the same today as they were back at the beginning of 2009, so I am getting consistent results. Although the bike has been running perfectly for the past two years at the midpoint CO settings, I think I'll probably reset the front two jugs for the minimum of 3.5%, just so I'll feel better about the screws not being so danged far out! But for the majority of carb setup and tuning for 2nd gens, I think I will continue just setting for max RPM + 1/4 turn on each carb. Even without a tach on every bike, I find it pretty simple to do it by ear. I used to actually leave the screws a tad more IN from max, but in light of the settings required to reach the published CO numbers, I've decided to set them 1/4 turn richer. If you feel the need to adjust your carbs for any reason, here is the process I think will produce good results for just about anyone. First, sync the carbs and make sure the idle RPM is set properly. If you do not have a tach, just realize the idle spec of 1,000 RPM is probably a little faster than the idle sound you prefer. Just leave the sync gauges connected while you do the mixture screws, since you will want to double check the sync setting when you get done. I'd start with each mixture screw about 3.5 out, then the first thing is to start turning it IN to verify you get a drop in RPM (which proves your idle jets and circuit in that carb are actually working) - no point in trying to tune a carb that already has problems with plugged idle jets, right? Now slowly turn the screw out to the point where the RPM no longer increase. Select the final setting by turning the screw back in to just where you first detect any drop in RPM, then back out 1/4 turn. Repeat that with each carb, then verify the sync is good, and you are done. If you have problems getting a good setting on any specific cylinder, I'd start looking for other carb issues there, such as plugged jets, bad o-rings on the mixture screw, diaphragm holes, etc. Goose
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Well with a little guidance from Art I managed to sync my carbs today. Here's my results. 1) No more popping at idle or at deceleration. 2) Less gas fumes at idle. 3) Much, Much smoother accelerating and at highway speed. Before it had a vibration through the bars and the seat. I can't say it's any quicker, maybe just alittle. All and all the carb gauges are right up there as one of the best tools I've ever brought and I was amazed how easy it was once I learned how to use the gauges.
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