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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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Does anyone have the Parts # for the EBC REAR brake pads which will fit a 2nd Gen? Thanks in advance.....Boomer
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I am thinking of adding the Kuryakyn RTB module to my 2005 RSTD.... I do not have an owners manual and the one i downloaded doesn't appear to have the wire colors for the brake and turn signals on the rear... Does anyone know where I can find this information?? Thanks, Robert C. -
I have had the LED tail lights (from CruiserCustomizing.com)sitting on my desk for several months. I looked at doing the install myself, but chickened out, as I am not the most mechanically minded rider on the road. Then I met Rick through this site. He lives 10 minutes from me. We had a coffee, and he offered to help with the install. So... today we did it. Four and a half hours, including going out for a replacement bulb, as I dropped one, only to find that they do not bounce on concrete. The running lights and signal lights look great, but there is no change when the brake is applied. I can live with that. I will probably get an LED Brake light one day in the future. HUGE thanks to Rick for the use of is tools, garage, lift, and most of all, his knowledge and confidence in tackling this job.
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Looking for some info re drum brakes.....1.do I need to go to an auto brake master or will a 90VR rear brake master do the job? I have de-linked the fronts from the rear. 2.what type of tires would you recommend for rear wheels? Thanks :canada:
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on 83. Did not notice when last was working (maybe last year), but just finished fuse upgrade and added running/fog light and stebil horn. Running tail light works. Also added 4 relays 1. headlight and acc bypass ignition key switch(at fuse panel){to limit load on key switch} 2. fog light 3. horn 4. spare, not used at this time checked foot brake switch and have 12v on1 side, and 12v on other side when either foot or handle brake applied. 0v when switch normal. CMS no indication of problem. pulled and replaced both brake bulbs, no change removed truck and got to rear 3 wire connector at brake light 12v on blue(running) 12v on yellow(brake) when brake applied//??4v when brake off?? good ground on black temp jumpered power to yellow side of connector and bulbs worked(sockets ok) semi perm installed jumper from rear brake switch output to yellow at brake housing now all works ok, but have CMS fault(tail lts) only when brake applied Thinking lack of current(amps) to drive brake lights due to corrosion or partial open even though I have 12v at brake housing. Unsure why I have 4v when brake off(corrosion )? Probably need to pull seat (if I can remember how) and check underseat harness, but I am suspecting problem with the CMS(such a pain to pull dash) any other ideas?
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anyone out there ever buy the emgo brake kit listed on ebay?? need new brakes and want to but the kit for all 3 calipers and not spend a fortune. thanx brake kit is around $$60.00
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Replaced front brake pads on my 97 RSTD about a month ago and now my right rotor has enough warp to cause bad brake pulsing. Torqued according to specs .Kinda strange.. Can anyone give me a good place to shop for rotors? If anyone has one for sale here I would consider buying it from ya. Thanks Steve
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Had a signal dynamics back off brake light flasher install since last august, now it won't flash, wired to the led bar, removed it wired it into the stock brake light, no flash, wired it into both, no flash, took it up to the "factory" here in FL, 10 miles away, they were VERY helpful, talked to the owner/engineer, he tested it and gave it back, rewired it including a resistor he provided, no flash, took it back, they tested it on several heavy and light load light, worked perfectly, gave it back, "incompatable maybe" he said...can't seem to make it work on my bike, he did give me a 10 cent tour of their place, very cool, he said that could build all their products over seas but they don't to keep jobs over here, if you are looking for cool products, check them out, "signal dynamics"....any ideas what to do now?
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I want to install a wing on my trunk. Does any one know where I can get one. I'm looking for one that has the brake light in it. I need it for a 2nd gen. Thanks, Ken:fingers-crossed-emo
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. 6. Nearly in one piece again. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. Neil. (Old Miner).
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I bought a 2000 RSV last year. Currently have 35,000. Little overwhelmed from going through the maint book on what I am "supposed" to do. Planning on changing oil, filer, final gear oil, spark plugs, brake pads and I need a near tire so I will lube up the spline also and fuel filter. Carb tune was done last year (thanks Squidley) but I guess that should be done again if I have the valves adjusted which I am assuming hasn't ever happened. Based on records, brake pads, brake fluid, coolant and final drive oil was changed at 15,000. Quite overwhelmed with the other things the book tells me to do where I am completely clueless including the following. Engine Oil Pressure Test Repacking Swing are bearings Repack wheel bearings Valve clearance Fork oil change replace brake hoses brake fluid and cluth fluid (just confused on this one. If it ain't broke why do I fix it?) Most important thing to me is safety. The next most important is reliability and the last thing is the bikes longevity. What really needs to be done and what doesn't on a 10 year old 35,000 RSV? Thanks, Bob -
Came across this in a magazine recently and was wondering if anyone had checked into it or has tried them. If it functions as described, I might try one on the rear brake of my RSV. http://www.eglidegoodies.com/id254.html
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After an hour of fiddling with installing a speedbleeder to assist in replacing the fluid in my clutch reservoir, I reinstalled the old bleed valve and reversed bled the clutch lines (thanks Condor). Now, when I sqeeze the clutch lever, I don;t get any "pressure" until the lever is approx 1/4" from the grip. Essentially, the clutch lever travels almost all the way to the grip before I feel any fluid pressure. I took the cover off to have a look...I can see the plunger moving and I can see the fluid "swell" over the small hole. Having read on this forum that some folks have squirted themselves with brake fluid by rapidly activating the clutch lever. I took the appropriate precautions to prevent brake fluid spraying every where...but to my dismay...no spray...just a "swell" in the reservoir. It just doesn;t seem like I have any clutch. I can squeeze the clutch, and put it into first gear, but after releasing the lever about an 1/8 of an inch, the bike begins to move. What have I missed?
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This Intregrated Brake is new to me. So when I hit the foot brake, one front rotor and the rear rotor are activated. Are the fluid pressure 50/50 front rear or 60/40 or ##/##? When I hit the front brake only with the right hand brake then are both front rotors activiated or just one front rotor? I'm from the old school riding 27 years ago and so I'm still not too comfortable when needing to brake in a turn and say it is wet out. The whole idea of Intregrated Braking seems strange to me. And not having ridden much so far, would welcome any thoughts of comfort. Like does one brake differently in different situations with intregrated brakes vs the old fashion brake system. Or do I brake as if I have the old system and just forget that the brakes are intregrated, and let the new technology do its stuff. As for now I ride kind of conservatively until I get a better understanding, more experience and a better feel for the braking. -
Scared myself today. Instead of my 89 venture, I decided to take my Kawasaki Concourse out for a ride. I bought it for my son to ride so I haven't been on it that much. I was in the middle of a corner doing 65 and three deer are walking across the road. No problem. Plenty of time to slow down. So I touched the brake pedal like I would on my Venture with its integrated brakes. They do a good job of slowing you down in a controlled way. Ooops! These are just the rear brakes and they are a lot touchier than the Ventures. I hear the rear tire lock up on me just as I start to fish tail back and forth about 3-4 times. I pulled my foot off the brake pedal and thank God, it straightened out. I would have stood up on the pegs to shake the stuff out of my shorts but the pucker factor was well into the upper 8s (0-10) and I couldn't raise my butt off the seat. Well, I will be conscious of that issue from now on. Whew!
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I've got a 1999 RSV. The brake light is stuck on. I've disconnected both the front and rear brake switch and the brake light stays on. When I unplug the brake relay, the brake light goes off. I've replaced the front brake switch, the rear brake switch, and the brake relay. The brake light is still stuck on. I've inspected the wiring I can see that's not wrapped up in the front or main wiring harness and see no visible scrapes, cracks, cuts, breaks, etc. Has anybody had or seen this problem before? Suggestions? As always, thanks for your help.
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The sight glass on my front brake master cylinder sprung a leak from cracking, so I replaced it with an ebay m/c. When I took off the old master cylinder, the it had just two wires coming out of it and they were tucked in the fairing - not hooked up. Brake light did not work with front brake, now I know why. However, the replacement m/c has two sets of wires coming out of it. The two with the bullet type ends that connect somewhere, but there is another set of wires coming out that have a plastic connector on the end that looks like it should plug into something - anyone know where this goes? Thanks, Don -
Hi everyone, hope all are well. A couple of months back I had asked for some advice on what do with my 89 Venture, it had fuse panel problems. headlight problems, etc. Thanks to all that responded. Shortly after that I had to go on the down low for awhile, had a medical condition come up and I should be relased from the doctor tomorrow. Anyway, I want to thank everyone that responded to my earlier post. I may end up having someone work on this bike for me, but I am going to do what I can. Pushing the comfort zone, as you may say. I have new tires coming for the Venture, planning on removing the wheels and getting the new tires put on. Should I use a m/c jack for this, or use the front wheel dive procedure found on this site? I also need a new front brake master cylinder, the sight glass developed a leak - actually a section of it chipped out and I lost the brake fluid. Got one coming from ebay with a good site glass. After these two fixes I am planning on replacing the fuse panel with Skydoc's kit. Anyway, sorry for rambling. My question, is there a good way to use the m/c jack, suck as either side to mount it from? Thanks in advance, any tips appreciated. Don
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1988 Venture Royale. Ordered three sets of brake pads for the Venture, from an eBay dealer. Used "Buy-it-Now" and the price was good. Shipping was prompt. These were "no-name" pads, intended for the 86-93 Ventures. When I opened the package, I noticed these generic pads are labeled "FA160". I checked out the application chart for FA160 pads, and it shows that they fit other Yamaha models, mostly sport bikes. I know the Venture takes FA123 pads all around. The FA160's are similar to the FA123's, except for the top. The holes line up with each other, they have the same width -- only difference that I could tell is the squared-out top ends. Has anyone ever used FA160 pads on his Venture? If so, any problems? I would try to install them and see, but my VR is at the independent shop getting its annual checking over. I want to know if I should arrange to return these pads, or keep them and use them. Any ideas? Nick Diaz Middletown, MD -
We just had 2 of the motorcycle shops merge here in San Antonio. It was time to replace the brakes on the ol Black Cherry so I went to Yamaha of SA. On my other bike I bought the brakes from E-Bay for $45 (give or take) for all 3 sets, and they work great. This time I didn't want to wait so I went local. The parts guy (new from the closed store) looked them up and said "they list rear brake pads and a front brake "kit". When he brought them up it was only 3 sets of pads of course. he told me "it's $39.89 for the rear pads and $137.89 for the fronts!. I am pretty sure he was looking at it wrong, I didn't mind paying the 40 bucks for the front, but I am almost sure that the fronts must have flakes of gold enbedded in them. That would be almost $70 a set! I asked him to look again and he said "You're welcome to drive to Austin if you don't like it."Needless to say I ordered them from E-Bay again and will have to wait 3 days.
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The Rear Brake Lever has two white washers. Mine shows several bad looking cracks, as if the piecies would fall apart if I took it apart. I looked them up and it looks like the 2 parts I need are the following: It can be found under Stand Footrest. 1) Part 68 - COLLAR 90387-06701-00 2) Part 70 - WASHER,PLATE 90201-100A1-00 I took the part 69 Nut Crown 90176-10073-00 off thinking part 70 would come off easily, but it did not. My question is, has others replaced theirs, or is it something to not bother with. The brake pedel does works fine.
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I have 3 questions. Is there a way to make my back blinkers stay on all the time like the front blinkers do. I also have a lighted spoiler on my trunk. I would like to know if there is a way to make that blink, with my blinkers. Also is there a way to make led light in the spoiler and the brake light flash when I apply the brake. Any help would be appreciated. Ironhead
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this is what i had left after 21.3k miles......
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At 20k my rear brake was worn out and took the rotor and the piston seals with it, now 15k later same happened (didn't lose the seals this time). Plus the pads wore differently inside was the one that wore out the quickest, outside pad looks new. My question is how often does everyone replace their pads on the rear (fronts are fine and I use them more than the rear). Is this kind of wear nomal? It looks like I'm going to have to every 10k to be on the safe side. Thoughts PLEASE
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