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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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My front brake pads seem to be glued onto the callipers to preventing them from rattling. Is this in fact glue or maybe hi temp silicone? I want to change the pads and need to know what to use. Any ideas? Thanks Harry
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I finally got my bolts for my clutch. I bought a new torque wrench. I took it for about a 30 mile ride today and I loved it. Real easy to put the new clutch in. I changed all my fluid in the brake and the clutch. Thanks to everyone for their advice. hairman:thumbsup:
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New here so I hope I can get a little help on this. I have a 05 RSV and I am having problems with the rear brake rotor pulsating. It first starting showing up around 4500 miles. It took the dealer until about 11500 miles until they replaced it under warranty. Now with 14500 miles on the bike the rear brakes are pulsating again. I brought it back to the dealer and they are telling me that they will not replace it under warranty again saying it's my fault because I am riding the rear brake. I find that almost impossible because of the position of the brake pedal. And yes, I even had the dealer, I see why there called the stealer, replace the brake shoes and the tires. I'm not new to this riding stuff, being doing it for about 40 years now. Any body able to offer any help on this?
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i have a 2007 but don't have any mechanic skills,but want to try to do what i can. where can i find out how to change brake and coolant? someday i'll also learn how to down load pictures and computer stuff.
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Safety first, these are important! 1. Steering stem bearings, regreasing and correct setting. 2. Tires that are not flattened out in the center. Tires on 1st Gen must have a round profile. A friend put new Kenda's on front and rear and it was dangerous. DO NOT BUY! Avons he bought fixed his bad wander. 3. Flushing brake and clutch systems often, especially in wetter climates. Sludge builds up and water corrodes. 4. Cleaning electrical connections. Battery cables, and all connectors should have contact cleaner (brake cleaner works too) sprayed in them at least every other year. My desert bike does not have this problem but all of the Midwest bikes we have bought have corroded connectors. 5. I have had several bikes driven to me with little of no air in the tires. Or no tread left. 6. Oil changes, is this a last thought? I've had the oil sight glass so dirty so many times I think it's full too... Drain it and it's so black it resembles heavy carbon... 7. Hand and Foot Controls at such a bad angle or so uneven it's a wonder the bike was drivable. 8. Lights/signals/horns not working, How safe is this? 9. Non-functioning brakes. All go and no stop??? 10. Safety inspections: I've seen state inspectors give it an OK without checking anything! 11. Please go out there right now and inspect your bike, your on only 2 wheels. 12. Can't do it yourself? Dealers too expensive? Do a posting on Craigslist. I've gotten many jobs this way.
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I saw a post here the other day on Platinum Burners from Wal Mart for running lights, so I took a look at what they had. I noticed these small chrome lights for $15 a pair and had an idea. I don't really need any additional lighting on the front, but I have been thinking about more visible brake lights. Sure enough I was able to locate red bulbs on the net that are replacements for the white ones. ($2.75 ea) I started trying to figure where to mount them and tried a couple of locations. This is what I ended up with. I tried them turned up and then turned down. I like the down position better. These lights have small brackets that are adjustable up and down, right and left. No drilling or anything. I simply removed the mounting bolt that came with the lights, removed the nut holding the turn signal, added the new light and put the stock bolt back in place. Took less than 5 minutes to put them both on, but I haven't wired them yet. If I like it, great. If not, well, I blown 20 bucks for a lot less before. Jeff -
I am working on a "science project" in my garage this summer. I need two matching steel brake rotors from a motorcycle. Larger diameter would certainly be better. My only requirement is that rotors must be of some material where a magnet will stick to it. Used and abused is fine. Cheaper is better. If someone has a couple of scrap rotors in their garage, I'd like to make an offer. If you must know, I am trying to make a small scale eddy current dynamometer. I want to compare the "performance" of thin motorcycle rotors to the ford mustang rotors I am currently using.
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Congrats KiteSquid. Thanks to all our veterans, you inspire us all. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/Venture/100_0809.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/Ggerg1186/Venture/100_0145.jpg
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After the first 100 miles on my new '84 Venture, I spent time doing some initial maintenance on it today. Changed the oil and filter, final drive gear oil and the spark plugs. What a pain in the butt changing those 4 plugs. At first I thought I would check, clean, and regap the old ones, but I don't want to do that again for awhile, so I just replaced them. Trying to find the correct thinner walled socket, length of extension, and a smaller ratchet to fit in those tight quarters was fun. I used my shop vac to clean out any debris before pulling the plugs to be safe as I couldn't really see down there. I used a 3" piece of 3/4" clear hose in placing the new plugs, with a touch of oil on the threads, down in there and starting them without cross threading. Clear tubing allowed me to see if it was turning and it reduced the amount of "tiny" turns with my ratchet too. I put some seafoam in the gas tank and then went for a 40 mile ride with my wife in the balmy 55F weather. I noticed it ran a little better. With new tires, new brake pads front and rear, and clutch and brake fluid recently changed by PO, I hopefully won't be doing much else for the time being. At some point I will tackle the carb synch and valve adjustments as needed. My wife is now spoiled with the comfort of this bike!!
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I'm looking for the inside half of a saddlebag for an 84 Venture. If anyone has 1 kicking around please send me a PM. Will also consider buying the whole thing if anyone has them. I had a bottle of brake fluid leak and it ate the bottom out of it!!! :snow2:Getting tired of winter had freezing rain last night.
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Putting new brake pads front and back on my 87 VR, would like some info on which pads to use. From what I have read I should use the following configuration. Rear - standard Organic/Carbon Front - Metal Looking for some advice because there is also Kevlar and Ceramic. I purchased this ride last May and now in the process of putting on new tires front and back (going to use Dunlap 3's) and putting in new rear wheel bearings and clutch. Had to put new diaphrams, plugs, wires and Caps last year. Thanks Dan
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If you are going to be doing any work on your brakes, before you go for a test ride, make sure you have an 8mm or 5/16 wrench with you. If for some reason your brakes start getting hot, a quick temporary fix is to release the brake bleed and relieve the pressure. I keep reading where people work on the brakes and go for a ride and it either gets gets hot or locks up and they are stranded until they can get someone to bring a trailer and wrestle it up on it. Another thing I am seeing is people with a brake pedal that is sticking or not coming back to the correct stop and not bleeding back into the reservoir, causing the same problem. RandyA
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I heard here that you can rehab the brake rotors by taking a sander to them. does anyone have and instructions about this? do I use a drill mounted sander and try to get the sanding marks all the same way? do I use an orbital and just rough everything up? They look grooved but when you touch them they feel smoother than they look. do I just leave them be? -
Front brakes on my 89 are due for replacement. I'd like to beef them up. I've always thought they were a little weak. I don't want to put stainless steel lines on as that seems a little expensive. Are there brake pads that are better than others like from Buckeye for instance? Also, my mechanic tells me that when he has test driven it and brakes, particularly with just the right hand brake, there is a surging uneven braking action. I have felt this too. He says that it is because the rotor may be warped. I don't want to buy a rotor but would buy a used one. Looks like they go for about $50 plus s&h. Any ideas? Iowa Guy
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brakeline rerouting??
bikerjohn51 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
this is the first big bike I've owned and last year when I changed the brake pads I discovered the the back brake is linked to the front left brake, and the front right side is tied to antidive ???, my question is this " is it possible to interchange the brake lines ,so that the antidive portion is tied to the front, and that the 2 front brakes are together?" I do not like the front and back tied together, because when I pull into my driveway, I am on gravel and the front slides out from under me, if I come in too fast !! same on corners on gravel roads........ don't worry, I'll be easy on the front brakes, if I make the change. on smaller bikes I never used the fronts at all. -
So I'm in the process of installing a hitch on my bike. The pictures show how far we had to tear it down to put the thing on, and amazingly from start to finish it only took a couple hours. Our next step is to do the wiring, which is a really sweet deal because it's all plug and play - minus the actual trailer coupler of course. I have to say, Bustech did a top-notch job with their wiring setup and installation instructions. The trailer I have is equipped with electric brakes. I, along with the guy helping me do the install, was hoping to find a brake controller that could be mounted both vertically, and NOT parallel to the direction of travel. Well, vertical mounting isn't a problem, I just have to pay a little extra for a nicer unit, but it seems every controller I find has to be mounted parallel to the direction of travel. Makes sense I guess, since most of the nicer ones are inertia based. The reason we were trying to be so picky is that on the right side of my fairing, on top of what would be thought of as the gas tank, is a "glove box". That's where on these bikes they install the CD player and radio that I opted not to buy. It's weatherproof, accessible from the saddle, and fairly good size. However, I don't believe it's wide enough to mount a brake controller without sticking it in there sideways. So chances are I'm going to have to mount it somewhere else, in a weatherproof case. So does anyone have any recommendations on a good, compact brake controller, or any thoughts on mounting? (I know that latter will be hard since most of you probably aren't familiar with my bike.) At first I was thinking some sort of flat, radar-detector type, mount on the handlebars, but i don't know if the extra motion from the bars will screw up the sensors in the controller.
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is another motorcycle accident right after the first one. Not gory: http://www.dpccars.com/motorcycle-09/01-07-09page-Motorcycle-accident-on-live-TV.htm Looked like the incoming rider got cut off, but was too anxious to get around another car that was pulling off to his left and didn't brake early enough for the merging white sedan. Victim #4 behind him was'nt much smarter....Very avoidable.
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I have a question in about the charge level of my battery.....is it normal for the battery charge indicator on the dash to go almost to the red zone when I hit the foot brake? The hand brake shows a minor pull on the battery, but when I hit the foot break, it is almost like there is a direct short some where. Is this normal or do I possibly have an issue? Thank you for any input you may have. Clay -
That is 79 more days to the official first day of spring. Yesterdays 45 degree weather was a perfect mid winter brake to take the bike for a spin. Can't wait for the warm weather.
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Hello to All, Got a question about RSTD brake system. Are the front & rear brake systems linked? I am new to the 2008 RSTD, can't find anything in the op manual about this:think: I have been on a Honda VTX 1800R for the last 2 1/2 years which has a linked system, sure was nice to get a little front brake when applying the rears:happy65: Thanks, Ron...
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Hello, I have a 1989 venture, 87,000 miles. Bought it couple of months ago. Noticed when I apply brakes, the volt meter drops down almost to the yellow line. When I release, it comes back up past 12. It had trailer wiring on it which I removed thinking that was the problem. Gauge still drops down. Pulled the connector for the rear tail lights and turn signals and applied brakes and still drops down. Disconnected foot brake switch and applied front brake, with connector to rear lights still disconnected and needle still drops. Is it possible that the switches are bad and causing the drop in voltage when I apply the brakes? Thanks for the responses in advance. Ya'll have a good Holiday and a Happy New Year. -
I'm looking to order a set of speed bleeders for my 2nd Gen. Is the clutch bleed screw the same size as the brake bleed screws? And are the brake bleed screws M8X1.25"? I could, I suppose, pull them and compare them but I would like to only have to pull them once...this winter:)
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89 Venture Royale... I've lost my brake lights. I tracked the problem to a relay behind the headlight. This relay is marked: 1NL OMRON 10Y8D5 It is a metal cased relay with 4 spade connectors in the connector housing. Can anyone help me identify which part to order? There are two relays with this marking, one on the left and one on the right. I have been unable to determine what part this is. The parts fische only shows two different devices in that area of the fairing (Electrical 1, items 9 and 12). One is noted as "Relay Assembly for side stand", the other just as "Relay ASSY". I did verify that this is the problem part by swapping the relays and the brake lights worked. Swapped back and no brake lights. Since the relay wasn't working I took it apart carefully and found a small deposit between the contacts. I cleaned that out and tested the relay in the bike again. The brake lights worked! I epoxied the relay back into it's cover, tested and the lights still worked, so I reassembled the bike. One last test... no brake lights. Of course, our local dealership has no parts in stock and they can't figure out which relay to order from the parts fische.
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I am sure someone has run into this before. I am having an electrical issue. I added a new rear brake light that works fine. It works as a tail light and brake light. I solered all connectons and covered connections with tape heavily and buttoned it all back up under the rear tail light. I then did the mod on my mufflers after checking out the new light and with the switch on the tail light lit up and it worked well when braked were applied. I finished my muffler mod and fired up the bike (99rsv) and when I headed out the drive way I noticed that the speedo/turn signal and fuel lights no longer lit up on the dash. I do have headlights/running light taillights and brake lights. I do not see a listing under fuses that would point to the speedo/turnsignal fuel pump as a combo or point to something they would have in common other than they are all electrical. Remember the bike runs fine so the fuel pump is working as is the lights/radio just not the idiot lights for the neutral/turnsignals or the speedo/fuel indicator. Any idea what I did to cause this and how to track the issue down and fix it? I am going back out now to research fused but as I said I dont have anything that points t o what would be commom and still let bike operate.
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I plan to install the 15" light bar on the rear of the bike this winter. This site has some good instructions on how to do this and several good sites to buy from. I see the lights have high and low intensity - so they are wired for driving lights as well as brake lights. I thought during my web searches that there was light bar that also did turn signals? The entire light bar goes high intensity for the brake The left side of the light bar flashes on a left turn and the right sides stay intense The entire bar stays at low intensity while driving Is it possible to buy a light bar that can offer driving, brake and turn signal features?
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