hkd51
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Posts
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Don't do it!! I have one, no better than stock seat, in other words, UNCOMFORTABLE!!! I bought mine used, I contacted manufacturer and asked if they could suggest or perform modifications for me for a fee. Would not respond to my multiple emails, no after sales service.
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I have ordered a number of products from the US for my retail store. Very few companies will send USPS ...extra work for them, customs documents etc. If they use UPS then UPS takes care of the brokerage documents, duties and of course shipping, all for a fee. Last week I asked UPS for a quote on a 10lb box of small dimensions with a value of $250. Their fees where $112 shipping (air only to Canada) $55 brokerage fees and of course duties and GST. I live just 40 minutes for the Canada US border so if I have it sent to a location just across the border UPS charges $22, of course I have to pay duties and GST at the border, the customs officers help me fill out the documents. Harry
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Cruise Control Max Speed
hkd51 replied to RedRider's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I could have gone my entire life with out knowing that the cruise had an upper limit. I thought we were pretty progressive here with 110 speed limit ...kph that is, about 65 mph. Never had the opportunity to engage the cruise at 80-85 mph. Note to self (bucket list) M U S T visit West Texas! -
Wow ...better than new!!! Looking forward to seeing the finished product in July at Kruis'n the Kootenays. http://24.72.54.92/kruisnthekootenays.htm Harry
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Tom, Not sure where you got the torque specks for the pinch bolt ... the specks I have are 17ft. lbs. acorn nuts are 30ft.lbs and the axle nut is 110ft lbs. Anyone else confirm these specks? Harry
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Job is done. I took the pumpkin and drive shaft out, with those off the tire came out without having to lift the bike higher than the Carbon One stand. Greased everything ...pins where dry as a bone, drained differential, then reversed procedure to reinstall. Followed advise to put shaft and pumpkin back then line up with axle before torquing 4 acorn nuts. Tire wouldn't go back in without jacking bike up quite a ways but all went well. I would advise everyone that does this job to check the brake pads, it seems the inside pads wear prematurely. My outside pads are hardly worn but the inside pad was almost down to bare metal on the trailing edge yet leading edge was not bad. Harry
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Another 83 Venture Rat Chopper
hkd51 replied to motorbiketim's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
COOL! Does it have NOS on it? What is the bottle tank under the gas tank? How about that chain on the lower right side, rear brake chain/cable? Is there a chopper hiding in my RSV 2000? -
National Cycle's Neutron Star http://www.best-motorcycle.com/yamaha/neutron-star.shtm
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I have used a brake pad lubricant on my cars in the past to stop the squealing. The product used previously on my brakes was also meant to hold the pads against the calipers to stop them from rattling. I know this because while inspecting the pads last summer I managed to break the pad away from the caliper so that it rattled the rest to the summer ...dove me nuts:starz: Thanks for your replys Harry
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My front brake pads seem to be glued onto the callipers to preventing them from rattling. Is this in fact glue or maybe hi temp silicone? I want to change the pads and need to know what to use. Any ideas? Thanks Harry
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I don't know about you but looks pretty good from where I stand.
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Once again thanks StarFan, great information!! I was wondering how to hold the yoke up. Thanks for the photos also. I was just reading another post about lubricant for these part, I am going to see my Honda dealer tomorrow to see if I can get the Molly 60. Another question for you. My rear shock isn't leaking but it does groan a lot. I have put some transmission/30 weight oil down the air tube a few times now but still groans after a week or so. Do you think I should look at replacing the rear shock? If so do you think I should I replace it with an OEM or a Progressive? Thanks! Harry
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Thanks Starfan the diagram helps a lot, the write up by Cougar is excellent, in fact I refered to it before attempting the job but the photos are too low a resolution for my old eyes to see it clearly. Personally I will always be removing the pumpkin and axle when changing the back tire, all the grease points where dry, it was done by the dealer 3 years ago. The wheel can be removed easily once the pumpkin and axle are out of the way by tipping the wheel on it's side and sliding it out, no need to go to scary heights with the bike. I am taking the rim to the local Yamaha dealer to have the tire changed $25 (Canadian) for mounting and balancing, pretty good price I think? Harry
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I finally got around to taking the back tire off. I also wanted to remove the pumpkin and drive shaft to grease them. It turns out that you don't need to jack the bike up any higher that the height of the legs on the lift. It is quite stable on the lift without tie downs even with the back wheel, pumpkin and drive shaft removed. Problem is I had my son help to remove the axle, I hammered while he pulled, it came out easy enough (I put a floor jack under the back tire to take the weight off it) but I didn't get to see where the washers came from on the right side of bike:think:. Can any one help? Thanks Harry
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This might be of interest to 1st gens and 2nd gens with center stands. Also check out the driving lights on this bike. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHeglNS6Ze4]YouTube - Goldwing Park-n-Move[/ame] Harry