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My new '05 RSMV has only 400 miles on it so I'm pretty new to this bike. But I've noticed a high pitched whistling or chirp when I'm throttling up. It only does it when I'm giving it the gas and goes away when I let off the throttle. The bike is completely stock and seems to run just fine. However, it's really annoying after a while. Anyone know what this could be?
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Pre-Owned Venture This article was written by a mechanic in 1988 who worked on all types and brands of motorcycles, but as you read it you will see the general points would be the same for all motorcycles. From a service standpoint, there are a few things to look at if you are considering buying a pre-owned motorcycle. Exterior cleanliness and mileage do not always tell the whole story. Service records are a good indication of the owner's attitude toward maintenance. If the owner takes the time to keep records of service and repair, he is most likely to have it done right and on time. Without the service record, you are just shooting in the dark and must rely on the seller's telling you the complete truth. Unfortunately, most people do not keep the best records. So here are a few things to be aware of: TIRES: Tires are the first things to check. Naturally, the depth of the tread and condition of the side walls are what you look at. Any cracking in the side walls or cuts or splits in the tread will have you buying a new tire in the near future. If the bike has new or nearly new rubber on it, always check the mileage on the speedo, and casually ask the seller how many times he has put new tires on the bike. This will give you an estimate of how much abase the machine has gone through. For instance, a Venture with 14,000 miles which is on its third rear tire but still has the original front tire is telling you the guy is into stoplight drag racing. This could indicate clutch wear as well. CLUTCH: Because the clutch is on the inside of the motor and you can't see it, you must ride the bike to check for slippage. This can be done at a moderate speed in fourth or fifth gear. Just fan the clutch a few times while under acceleration and listen to the motor. If the clutch is slipping, the rpm's will remain high after releasing the clutch lever. If the rpm speeds up and the bike does not, this machine is in need of a new clutch. The other tell tale sign is to remove the oil filler cap and smell the oil. If it smells like burned toast, this could indicate a problem also. OIL: Anyone who has any sense at all will probably change the oil before he tries to sell his bike. Nice clean oil looking at you through the sight window makes the machine a little easier to sell. But be careful even a bike with new oil may still have a little burned toast smell left if you check closely. Also, look at the underside of the filler cap for sludge or anything that may indicate what the rest of the inside might be like. With the motor cold and not running, stick year finger into the filler hole and take a sample of the scum on the inside motor case. A quick peek at the drain plug and oil filter cup will also let you know if the oil was just changed. There is usually a little oil residue left there after a recent oil change. Rear gear oil usually looks pretty clean because there is no internal combustion or clutch wear to dirty it. The drain plug has a magnet on it to collect the worn pieces of metal and such that accumulate there. Even though the gear oil is clean, the magnet will look like a dirty ball of metal fuzz. This is normal. But if any large pieces of shrapnel are found, you should look further to see where they came from. The rear drive shaft splines are impossible to check or see without removing the rear wheel and gear case. If you do buy the bike, it would be a good idea to pay for the hour and a half or so of labor and have it properly greased and inspected. This is for your peace of mind and may save you trouble down the road. A new drive shaft is only about 55.00, but the aggravation of this kind of trouble on the side of the road is not worth pinching pennies over, so if the splines are worn, replace it now. The drive shaft is not a failing part of the Yamaha Venture, but as the bike gets older and gets higher in mileage, a little preventive maintenance is a good idea. Scratches and scrapes can tell you a little about the machine's history. You may not be able to tell how many times ifs been down, or to what extent damage was sustained if the owner had it repaired, but you should check for a few things anyway. All body parts may not be the same color because they don't always fade in the sun exactly the same. But if there is an obvious difference in color, the part could have been replaced, so find out why. It could have been changed for a lot of reasons, but if it was the result of an accident, make sure it was replaced correctly. You may want to check with the repairing dealer to make sure no corners were cut to keep the cost down. A bent sub frame or mounting tab could cause a painted body part to crack later on. If it has been down on the right side, always check the water pump joint between the thermostat case and the pump itself. It's an L-shaped silver plastic piece and is very vulnerable to being damaged by the right case guard. Also on the right, make sure the throttle does not stick or bind up because of damage on the end of the grip from a fall. Ventures don't have a history of things going wrong with the radiator hoses. With that in mind, they have probably never been replaced. Check carefully for cracks and to see if they are still pliable and not brittle or hard. The coolant itself should be clean and free of dirt or sludge, never milky or brown (that color could indicate internal engine trouble). A sheepskin seat cover is nice, but look under it; it could be hiding a real mess. If you are partial to the stock leather cover, make sure it's fit to sit on. Trunk repair on early Ventures is not uncommon. Look at the bottom of the trunk for cracks around the mounts and lock assembly. A fiberglass repair kit is not a lot of money, but you will want to consider it when talking price. Light bulbs are not expensive either, but the instrument bulbs are not very easy to get to and some after market accessories have bulbs that are harder to find in stores. Brake pads are easy to check because they can be seen without removing anything. The rear pads can be viewed by looking between the right saddlebag and rear fender or from under the bag on late models. You may need to use a flashlight to get a good view, and if it has all the Venture accessories you may need to remove the right bag on early models. Once you have spotted the end of the brake pad, you should check to see that there is at the very least one millimeter of brake fiber between the rotor and the metal back side of the pad. One millimeter or less and you should replace the pads before they begin to damage the rotor. The front pads can be seen easily from each side and the same measuring specifications are used. If the Venture has rotor covers and caliper covers, don't worry, just look through the wheel at the pad on the opposite side of the bike to check the wear. The rotors themselves are almost impossible to destroy unless they were bent in an accident or run for a long time with brake pads that were completely worn out, and were metal-to-metal. If the rotors are blue and obviously were very hot at one time, spin the wheel and check to see if they are warped. An improperly adjusted brake pedal or lever will cause pressure to build up and the brake pads will drag on the rotor, causing it to heat up enough to turn color but not necessarily warp the rotor. Brake and clutch fluids should be clean and clear or a light color. If fluids are dark and have a lot of black "gook" in the bottom of the reservoir, they will need to be changed and flushed. This is caused by heat. The clutch fluid will turn dark faster because the clutch slave cylinder is bolted to the engine cases. This heat from the engine is transferred to the clutch fluid and turns it to a dark color as it is slowly cooked. The brake fluid used for the brakes does not get this hot unless the brakes are not adjusted properly, as explained above. it shows a good or even strong reading,. Battery: Because we change batteries about every two years their is not much to see here except to check the cables for corrosion this could mean having to replace them. One thing that's almost always overlooked is the fuse box. It has to be moved to check the battery but most people never look inside. "Why?" you might ask. Well, if there are no spare fuses under the lid, they had to go some where. If this is the case, ask the owner about it and you will probably get some interesting stories about what happened. If the Venture is covered with lights and accessories with all the bulbs burned out, look for bad grounds or dirty bulb sockets or even a loose accessory causing the bulbs to vibrate them selves to death. Electrical problems are something to avoid when buying a used bike. The fact that there is a problem is bad enough, but it's a lot harder for a mechanic to find the problem if you can't give him any of the history of the bike (or the problem) you just purchased. These thoughts on electrical problems may help to keep the sparks from flying after the sale! I hope these last three months have helped you to make the right choice. Of course, these are not all the things to look for. Any whine, grind, squeak or knock should be investigated, and if it's hard to roll or the levers and pedals are stiff or bind up, you should make sure they just need lubrication and not some new parts. Bill Daly
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Can anyone help with cause, oil leaking from valve cover area, very low mileage bike. Out of warranty.
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Kicking around the Harley dealer today, saw several bikes with run flat tires. I guess the police use them but are available for retail puchase. First time I have seen these on a bike. There must be some drawbacks or most bikes would have them. Any experience anyone?
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I had put this on the site before it crashed. An inexpensive way to add some chrome to your bike. Takes a little practice at cutting but works good.
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Anyone know if there's a combination Sirius + MP3 unit that works on a bike & can be moved from bike to car without much problem?
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I have an 86 venture royale and early this spring I noticed that after the engine is warm my clutch lever was very spongy and the bike became hard to shift. I took it into the local yamaha shop and they bleed the clutch. It helped for one trip of 30 miles then started again. There is no visable leaks or fluid loss. I have had this bike for 2 yr. and it only has 26,000 miles on it what may be the problem. thanks for any help I can get. ross
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Been looking for a trailer hitch to tow bike long distances since girlfriend only last's 2-300 miles on back of bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180020455266&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1 How much trouble is it to tow my RSTD with the back tire down and front up? Do I have to pull drive shaft? Any info is appreciated since I'm remoldeling house money is tight. Ride safe and God Bless. Mike
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My bike 2006 RSV will be out under car port all winter with a Real good bike cover. i start it up every 2/ 3 days Do i need to do anything else? i let it run until its hot. tree
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My black cherry 2006 Venture needed very little to make it complete. I did want cup holders, fore and aft, and a rider backrest, so I contacted Diamond R for both. The backrest went on without a hitch, as per directions. No drill and a perfect fit. The rest adds a lot of comfort to my ride. The cup holders also were made to fit my bike and look great. I have gotten a fair number of compliments on these holders, along with some, "Where'ja get them?" I am happy with Diamond R's products and service and do not hesitate to recommend them to all. The only thing that I would like to see on the Venture is a reverse gear, ala the "Wing". With the weight of the Venture, I really do have to be careful where I park, so that I do not have to back the heavy beast up any sort of grade to get out. Otherwise, I really do enjoy this bike. I have owned many bikes since 1959, to include seven Harleys. If I need to buy another bike, it will be a Venture.
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Last week I rode my bike to the dealer for the 16,000 mile service. I drove 100 miles to Tallahassee Florida. There is a dealer here in Albany, Georgia but they didn't have the bike I wanted so I had to go to Tallahassee. The only reason I go back to Tallahassee is I financed on the Gold Card and my services are included for 36 months. The price Tallahasee charges for the 16,000 mile service is $1,100.00. I picked up my bike yesterday and drove to my office and parked it. When I left work yesterday afternoon and stopped at the first traffic light I heard the worse clicking noise from the rear end I have ever heard. I pulled in at an independent cycle repair shop that was on the way home. Two guys I ride with were there and the mechanic said he would look at the bike and not charge. We checked the rear end oil and it was full of fresh oil. When you sit on the bike and roll it forward or backward you can hear the click. It isn't a click that you get each time the wheel makes a full revolution but one click after another and it is loud. So I am going to trailer the bike back to Tallahassee. Here is my question. I have a trailer but have never trailered my venture. The instruction sheet with the pingel wheel chock I purchased says not to tie a touring bike down with the front forks but to put a tie down strap around the triple tree. I can't see where you can put a tie down around the triple tree with the fairing. Any suggestions. I have an 05 RSV. Thanks.
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Here are some pics of an adaptor I made up for my bike jack. They were on here before but were lost in the crash. Maybe they can help someone out.
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We always look for a good shop to work on our bikes, Picked up my bike yesterday from Sacto, had new fork seals put in, progressive springs and he put on and balanced both new tires for just under $280! Like the guy and his shop is spic and span. Steve Dubois put me on to him. Here is his info: Steve Bryant Street Bike Services 5528 #2 Auburn Blvd Sacramento, CA 95841 916 348-6005
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less than 2 weeks, the 2nd time riding to work. Man I was feeling pretty high up in the world riding in on my shiney new steel blue 84 xvz12, Tunes were sounding great. I pulled into the parking spot real graceful like and decided to lean her over a bit and back up so that the front of the bike was pointing in the best postion to be seen. I was feeling pretty good about my new bike. Just as I started to back up , my foot slipped out from under me, sliding quickly on a bed of dried up pine needles that had fallen from the tree behind my parking spot. The bike's weight suddenly became apparent as it leaned heavely against my thigh., I had no choice but to let her down as gently as I could. slowly and with no doubt a look of horror on my face it started to slide down. It was like it was in slow motion lol. It hit , and landed on the engine gaurd so softly that I could barely hear it. I got off and looked around hoping that no one had seen it. I thought I had gotten by when a good friend could be heard snickering and asking if I was ok. Of course I said I was even though I could feel the torn muscles in my back and neck from trying to save my new bike from any harm or God forbid a scratch. He helped me get it back on it's wheels and onto the center stand . I thanked him and just knew he would tell, lol. YEP he did, I was teased pretty good for the last week or so, but I guess I just mark it up to another learning experience. EMBARRASSED?????NAH , NEVER lol P.S. hope I am still elcome in this club hee hee
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Hello everyone. Just bought me the '06 RSTD and love it. Well, maybe except for 1 small thing. Is it possible to ride this bike without the front cowling attached? Down here in Florida, we have been braking heat records lately and the heat from the engine on top of the 90 plus days is killing me. So, is it o.k. to remove the cowling or will it have a negative effect on the air filters? By the way, the bike is an upgrade from a Suzuki Boulevard!! And I do mean UPGRADE.
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For the past few weeks my RSTD has been running a bit rough...I was getting a bit more vibration in my grips and floorboards...a few more backfires (I already plugged my AIS)...and so I ordered the Morgan Carbtune. Well it arrived last Friday...but alas...I fell off a ladder at home Saturday morning and have been crawling into work and around the house ever since. Well today on the way home from work I decided enough is enough. After I got home I got the Carbtune out...hooked it up...synched carbs 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, then 2 & 3 and guess what? Now it runs like a champ! The increased vibrations are gone...no more backfire...and she screams when I punch the throttle in overdrive once again. What a great tool...I highly recommend this to anyone with a Venture or RSTD...it truly is a piece of cake to do once you know where the three screws are and the number order of the carbs. The first two synchs (carb 1 to 2) and (carb 3 to 4) are adjusted with a phillips head screw driver from the right side of the bike (right side when when you are in the saddle). The last synch screw is a flat head screw that is accessed from the left side of the bike and is up to the right of the choke pull button on the left. I am sure someone will post pictures of these screws and this will help. The screw to synch carbs 1 and 2 is accessed on the right side of the bike but it is all the way on the left side of the bike...you have to go through the "V" to get to it...and it underneath the choke button on the left hand side...again...you can only get to this screw from the right hand side of the bike. Here I used a 20" Phillips #2 and had no trouble reaching it and then reading the carbtune gauge (which was attached to my right handlebar). The screw for the next synch (carb 3 and 4) is also on the right side of the bike and is found a little up above and to the right of the spring for the carbs. Here, believe it or not, I also used the long phillips screwdriver but my hands were on the metal shaft of the driver and not on the handle of the screwdriver. Again...had no problem finding, adjusting, or viewing the carbtune gauge. Finally...the last synch is betweed carbs 2 & 3...and that screw is accessed from the left hand side of the bike and is found above and to the right of the actual choke button. Here you need a flat head screwdriver. I already knew my idle was good...so I just jumped into the synching proceedure. When I took the bike out for a test run after she cooled down and I reattached everything...I simply could not believe the difference. What a tool...after 2 to 3 tuneups...I would have to say the tool will pay for itself. Later...
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What oil do you use in your bike and why?
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In my Motorcycle club we are trying to get better communications. Now not everyone has the Gem of a bike I have with CB already on it so we area looking to purchase a few portable setups that arent permanantly fixed to the bike so that the road captain can have them to designate people as assistants. What I am looking for is recommendations on which type we should look at. I want it to be portable (handheld that can be worn by the rider) and a headset that isnt attached permanantly to an individual helmet.. Does anyone have any good ideas. I have seen one by Chatterbox but we need a few that work good.
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Lets get this place rocking again by posting how we've added to the best bikes ever made. Report your accessories, mods, add-ons. If you made it yourself post a picture. I'll start! I have installed in my 99 RSV the following: (I bought this bike used so many of these things came with the bike) Hopnel Tank bib Chrome Master cylinder cover Chrome choke knob cover Chrome front fender rail Chrome Kuryakan highway pegs (http://www.kuryakyn.com/) Chrome clutch and brake cylinder covers etched with Royal Star Venture Chrome tail light cover from Cruisercustomizing.com Chrome bag rails - came with the bike Chrome HitchDoc hitch - came with the bike Chrome light hoods - came with the bike Chrome trunk rack - came with the bike Carolina Leather tool pouch for the front Hopnel trunk bib - not installed yet Highway Lights - came with the bike LED light bar under the trunk - wired for running and brake lights LED license plate lights - wired for running and brake lights Purple LED accent lights to show off the best bike on this site. Saddlebum sheep skin seat covers I think that's all. There may be more that I'm forgetting. I know. I need to add pictures. I need new pictures! Here's a few.
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Please don't think that I'm stupid or anything, but this has been boggleing my mind ever since I got my RSV. Is there anything that you "have to do" to the speakers before you wash the bike? Can they get wet? If they do, will it hurt them? I'm not trying to sound stupid, but this is my first bike with an audio system and I don't want to ruin it. Thanks!
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I was tooling through the J and P cycles book the other day.. came across a different carb cover than what Yamaha offers... anyone ever put one on the bike?
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I have an 89 Royale. After a poker run last Sunday I started leaking fuel from in front of the rear wheel. I pulled the side covers and found 4 hoses that run along and to the back of the tank. It seems one of them is leaking. It only leaks when the bike is running. RPM's are down and bike seems to be maybe flooding out. Could this be a stuck float and the line an overflow or vent line for the carb.? I didn't have much time to dig further. Thought I should consult someone before I began tearing into things. I tend to create more work for myself unless I check first. Any advise and help is appreciated. Thanks, firefly:fireman:
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While at Vogal, I had my carbs synced by the professionals and it ran better and smoother on the hand grips. But, I knew my carbs needed to have the air mixture setting adjusted because at idle the richness would bring tears to your eyes. Without starting the bike, I started around the carbs and found two was about two turns out and one about one turn out. When I got to the front carb on the right side, I tried to turn it and it was pretty tight, but moved a little. When I bottomed out, it would not move and in the process of trying to make it move, I broke off the two raised edges that are on each side of the slot, therefore no more slot. I have another set of carbs I bought cheap off ebay, so I knew at worst, it would take pulling the carbs off and breaking them apart and cleaning them all and putting a spare on. So, if I really screwed the carb up on the bike, it would be ok. What I ended up doing was I used a drill bit that fit the hole with minimal slop and drilled a dimple in the head of the screw. I then used a small drill bit that fit the easyout, or screw extractor as some would know. I was able to drill deep enough to get a hole without drilling so deep that I drilled to where it shanked down to the step area. By tapping the easyout and seating it, I was able to unscrew the adjustment screw. I used a piece of rubber hose on my shopvac to pull out any debris. I was then able to put in one of the spare mixture screws from the other carbs and I was back in business. I then hooked up my son's carb syncing outfit and synced them myself. It took a few minutes, but I got them all the same. Now the bike is again running good and don't bring you to tears when idleing. randya
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I want to purchase a battery charger for my 06 RSV. I want to leave this on all the time so when I pull into the garage I can hook it up to the extensions. I am not too swift when if comes to the the "electricals" of the bike (I can wire my house...but know nothing about the electricals of a bike). So I don't want to damage the battery. There are battery tenders and battery tricklers. What do people recommend, why, and what do you have. I'm not sure of the difference. A very popular product in this area is called Battery Tender. It has 3 versions: Battery Tender Jr; Battery Tender Plus; and Battery Tender Jr. Waterproof. I have a full battery charger at home, but I want something I can attach to the battery and just leave there and plug in if I don't ride it for a week or 2. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Painter
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Sunday, after getting our camping stuff set up in Townsend TN, below Gatlinburg, my son and and grandson on their Yamaha FZ1, and the wife and I on the Venture took off down the Foothills Parkway to ride the Dragon. Just after we turned onto 129, as I hit a bump at the beginning of the first bridge, I thought I had a blowout or busted the rear shock. When I found a good place to pull over, the rear tire looked fine and when I checked the rear shock pressure, it was what I had it set on. When I looked under it, I saw that the rear suspension linkage had shifted forward and the frame on the cross bar was twisted and split. I have checked the frame several times on my 83 Venture and felt confidant that my frame had been replaced with a new one somewhere in its earlier life. I had asked what to look for on this site and was told to look for gussets and any signs of rust. There has never been any signs of rust and the frame looked beefy with gussets around this area. My first look with a flashlight does not indicate any rust present in the split areas and the frame walls look aproximately .075 thick and shiney. The bike is still sitting on the trailer that I hauled it home on Sunday night. At the moment I have the bike sitting upside down on my trailer. I have all the plastic off except the front fender and the rear frame section off. It appears that what has happened is the center section has twisted and split. I am taking it to a friend that has made a living as a welder and has built many racecars. I am going to have him look at it and see what we can do. I know that if he will agree to tackle it, it will be stronger than new when he finishes it. What really concerns me is this frame WAS NOT RUSTED AT ALL. It just twisted with the suspension pushing up and the engine weight pushing down on the other side. I did see areas that appeared to have poor weld penitration. I will post some pictures as soon as I can. Well, she is sitting upright and the rear suspension is on. I took it to my racecar building buddy and he did a great job getting it back right. He also added some 3/8 rod from the tower that has the suspension mount and center stand over to the frame, creating a triangulation for much added strength. I had my collector with me so we could see where we had room and it would not get in the way. Even though there was obviously some poor welding, but absolutely no rust, I feel I may have also contributed to the problem over the last nine years that I have had the bike. I have routinely spun the bike around while on the centerstand. My garage floor is very smooth and the bike spins easy, but I am going to stop doing that as this has probably put a lot of pressure on the frame in that area.
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