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Showing results for tags 'air'.
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I found out several months ago that the dial air pressure guage I had been using was giving an innaccurate pressure reading. It was showing a higher than actual reading. I purchased a good digital and corrected all my vehicles and trailer's pressures. Or so I thought. After reading a current thread about tire life and air pressures, I started to wonder if I had re-checked my bike's pressures. I usually check them monthly, but with my work travel schedule, time flys and things got off of schedule. I went out and checked them. The rear was at 24 PSI and the front at 22.5 PSI. So... I filled them to 40 PSI rear and 35 PSI front. Then I went for a ride WOW....... it rolled faster out of the garage. It cruised smoooooooothly down the road. Seemed to shift a little easier, turned nicer and just seemed like a different bike. The only down side seemed that the brakes were just a little less. Amazing how just a little air like 16 lbs in the rear and 11 lbs in the front can make such a difference. Next thing you will know is that if I fill the gas tank to the top the guage would show full... Lesson: Check you gauge against another one you know is accurate.
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First the story: I was riding home yesterday afternoon and it was hot. I reach up on the dash of the 93 super fast blue bike and open the vents. Nothing changes so i put my hand up next to the vent and no air is coming out of either side. The Questions: Is air supposed to come out the vents? How in the world do you get them to stay open? Finally does anyone really know how fast the blue bikes go?
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Sacramento is hitting a heat waive around 105 this weekend. So I would like to know how to cloth under garments properly in this type of heat. Since I'm coming into that area. First of all I leaned the acro ATGATT for riding in extreme heat. But what about under garment. In more reasonable riding temp from 70s to 80s, under my Tour Master Transition Jacket with zipper air pockets and my Tour Master Air Pants, I wear a T-shirt and long jeans, so when I reach my destination I just remove my riding gear. So when one is riding long distance and gets caught in a heat wave of like 100 + degrees what would be best to combat the heat. 1) Keep the Jeans and T-shirt on. 2) How about Shorts and a T-shirt. 3) How about a specility item. The thinest, undergarment that has excellect moisture wicking properties. If 3 is the best recommendation then, being that your entire body is giving of moisture would full length sleeve or short length sleeve be better? 4) Or maybe something better??? Oh, all this would be in consideration with one wearing a cooling vest and a cooling neck wrap. I know also that one needs to have a large hikers drinking back pack. Inaddition to water one needs something like Gatoraid or Propel drink also.
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I and seven other of my mortorcycle friends have completed and now recooperated from a 7 day 3,100+ mile trip from Central Arkansas to southern Utah. The trip took us through Denver, Grand Junction, Moab, Mexican Hat, the "canyon lands", Four Corners, Alamosa and Dodge City. It was a great trip with no major mishaps. During the trip I learned some very valuable lessons and tips. Most lessons/tips are "common sense" but they are things we tend to overlook. So here goes; 1. Sunscreen and skin moisturizer are your friend. The sun was bad enough but the low humidity along with the dry winds was tough on the face . In arid environements may sure to hydrate and stay hydrated. 2. When you see a dust/sand storm in the distance it's better to stop and wait it out than proceed . Don't worry about "getting behind schedule", to proceed is just not worth it trust me!! 3. During a sand storm sand will accumulate in the fins on your motor, air filters and your ears. A half helmet is not recommended in this situation. Make sure to check those air filter and clean/replace if needed. 4. Make sure you have some simple replacement parts (air filters, fuel filter, etc.) with you. If you have to purchase them "on the road" the cost can get excessive, if you can find them. 5. Riding 74 miles in a 30-35 mph cross wind is a heck of a workout. I may suggest it to the P90X people to include in their program. 6. On soft road shoulders and in strong winds your motorcycle will fall over more easily and very quickly . Thankfully no damage was done. 7. Before embarking on a trip pack your motorcycle and do a trial ride to insure the weight distribution is correct and what effects the extra weight may have. Remember the more "surface area" your luggage has the greater potential of wind effects. Also added weight and the height of the weight changes your center of gravity. I was a very good trip but we tried to do too much in a short amount of time. If you have never been to southern Utah I suggest you put it on your "to do" list and do it. Good riding friends!!!!!!!!!!
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I've been told that adding more fork oil will stiffen the ride and removing oil will soften the ride. So what does adding or reducing front fork air do to the ride?
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Kruis'n the Kootenays Motorcycle Rally I hope you have your reservations made and the GPS's configured, as we are getting close to needing numbers for the New Grand's Catering Dept. so we will need to know fairly close numbers of how many we will be feeding for the hosted meals. If your plans are still up in the air but you think you still may want to come please drop us a msg so we can talk. Looking forward to getting those roads all rode on and meeting all you folks!
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I was riding back from the "big smoke" yesterday and smelled gasoline... started wondering, and then the bike sputtered when I accelerated. I pulled into the first parking lot I could find and as my wife jumped off, she exclaimed, "it's pouring out the bottom!" The fuel was running out as if the tank has a 1/4" hole tapped into it. As I shut her down, (bike, not wife) she stopped dripping. I traced the leak to the carb "overflow" tubes. After pulling off the air cleaner assembly, so I could see what's happening there, I started the bike again. The front right and rear left carbs were leaking out of the little hole on the rim, and then out the tubes. I figured there must have been some dirt in the tank and it has plugged stuff in there. So, I finger plugged the leaking hole in the rim and blew back into the leaking hose... I did this for all four carbs and she fired up and ran nice while sitting there. I did not assemble the air box because it was dark and I was using a limited number of tools (and didn't want to dis-assemble the bike in the mall parking lot) so I tried to run it without the air box... she did not run well - I'm assuming she was getting too much air. My son came down with the trailer and dragged us home - we got home at 2AM... but got here safely. Thank God. So, where do I go from here? Is it time to pull the carbs off and clean/rebuild? If I clean the tank, clean the carbs, and re-assemble will I be ok? She was running real good up until last night... HELP
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After putting in some air into the front forks then when letting out the air, the front air pressure won't go below 7 lbs. Thats on the center stand with the front wheel off the ground. I put the sw to Front, Manuel, Then press the decrease button. The air is let out and the pressure comes down but then stops at 7 lbs. How does one get it down to below 7 lbs. -
Okay, I like to get out of dodge on memorial day weekend. I am in east central Illinois. Looking at a destination 500 to 600 miles out for a $100 hamburger, yes I am a pilot to. Was thinking about ft rucker Alabama to take in the army air museum, anybody know of anything better. Other thing to cross my mind is riding part of natchez trace. Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2
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G'day All; I notice that there was a thread on this subject where PGunn decided to try fitting Hypercharger Air Filter Units to his bike. This was back in 2008. Has anyone actually 'eliminated' the existing system and found a new, less 'Bulky' alternative as yet? Cheers, Paul. -
Just wanted to post this for feed back. I have been trying to think of ways to dress up the air intake/filter box area. Not looking for high performance just visiual appeal. My bike is an 08 RSV and I have added some RK mufflers. This is the only mechanical modification that has been done. I first started off by trying to find out how much CFM the stock filters drew so I would not be messing with fuel/air mixtures. Let me state I have no technical skills at all. Just about everyone that I've seen that has altered the air intake has had to adjust or re-jet and shim needle valves!?!? Seems the filters they used drew way to much air and exceeded the cfm required by the RSV. The only way I could come close was to call K & N and they gave me the info on CFM of the replacement filter for the RSV. Part #YA-1399 has 338 cfm. Then I looked at different types of "Pod, Pancake" type filters. Nobody making filter is willing or knows how much CFM there filters draw (except K&N). I wanted to keep the filter size small so that I would not exceed the 338. Thinking that K&N was a high flow filter, the stock must draw less. Also the stock air box has only a 1.5 inch hole drawing that air through. I was able to get info on several filter that looked good and had the low cfm draw. I decided on a small 4.5" round chrome pancake filter that is 1" thick. The filter is reusable/washable and oil charged. I fabricated small brackets to secure it solidly and also got some muffler pipe to form a connection between filter and intake hose. The filters draw 127 cfm each. I've had them on for a couple days now and have ran the bike on the highway and in town. Running through the rev limits and down shifting. There has been no hesitation of sputtering at all. Lots of get-up and go. Have only put about 20 miles on her so far. As for the filter being small my thinking was the stock flliter box is roughly 9.5L x 5W x 4.5D with a small 1.5 inch hole drawing air into a filter that is roughly 5.25L x 3.5X x 3.5D. The outside box makes the filter look bigger than it really is. If I need to go up in filter size or cfm K&N also has several round and oval styles with cfm draw of 172 to 269. Have included some pictures to show how it looks. Sure would like to here some of your thoughts (good/bad, postive/negative). Or if anyone would like more information just let me know. Thanks for reading, Dennis
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There are couple on eBay, but seeing if any members have an extra they would like to sell. Also looking for a air vent by the speaker right side when sitting on bike. Let me know , bags 84 VR 120k brought back from the dead.
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Hello, The air suspension isn't working on my 1986 Venture Royale XVZ13T DS/DSC. According to the error message it should be a faulty pressure sensor (Yamaha part no. 31M-85981-00-00) and I bought that sensor already. But here is the point: I cannot find the original sensor on the bike to replace it !!!!!!!! According to Yamaha's very rough scetches it should be located somewhere around the speedometer or levelling computer panel. Can somebody help me out with the exact location of that sensor? Thanks Bernhard -
Any one else having a howling problem with the rear tire?. when cornering the sidewall makes some serious noise! I have about 6k miles on the tires,they are both E-3s air pressure is 39r/36f. just wondering if may be I have some thing going on?
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i want to remove the radio, cassette, cb, and air ride controller ( air ride disconnected). what parts will i need to convert it to a Standard? fairing pockets and covers? i tried ebay but couldnt find exactly what i needed. does anyone have these parts?????? ps: i have a working radio, cassette, and cb..... -
My 91 VR project is behind me, I finally got to ride my new touring machine and was really impressed by the quality of my ride, many of you where telling me how good the Venture was and with your help, I must agree its a great ride. The motor seems to purr between 4000-5000 RPM and growl above 5000, without noticeable vibrations or hesitations, no back-fire and very smooth. The bike handles better than expected, with proper damper adjustment and air pressure my ride is solid in long sweepers, with no noticeable speed wobbles at +130 km/h, sharp and crisp in rapid curves, I am impressed for a 21 year old touring machine. Braking is top notch with R1 calipers and new rotors, it's all about control and power. Comfort is good, I also love the cruise control, ease of operation and constant speed hold make's it a big plus and helped me get 42 MPG on my first two tankfuls, riding two-up with a 800 pound bike is very good as long as I am concerned. 3 months of hard work and love to bring back life in this machine, with many modifications such as, K&N air filter, fuse upgrade, complete front fork rebuild with progressive springs, complete brake overhaul with R1 calipers, new rotors, stainless brake lines, complete carburetor restoration and mounting computer on top of air filter. One last upgrade is left to do for this year(maybe), is Ignitech computer upgrade to replace my 21 year old black box, I did receive unit and will be installing unit next week with Dingy's help(Got a new laptop), this should also help to increase response and control of motor operation. Mike -
new rear tire with about 800 miles on it. please look at pics. don't think it went straight in, i think it just caught the edge. with the luck i had last time with a nail( none at all) i will listen to sound advice on this one. i pulled the nail out without any air leakage. is there anything to do or just ride it. just don't want to loose another one at 82 mph with two up. the pic with the nail and paper is how far it went in.
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At the end of the riding season last year, I bit the bullet and Installed a K&N Air Filter. Since the weather has been so bad here, (snowing again today, 3 ins. by morning) I have had an extended amount of time to do all of the things to my 87'VR that I would never do during the riding season. I removed the Air Box Cover and to my surprise there was a BIG messy oily spot on my brand new filter where the Crank Case Vent Tube enters the Air Box. I was not happy. Well the old 87'VR has 75,000 miles on it now and I figured that there is probably going to be some blow by. I remembered that on my 86' V65 Magna, before I rebuilt the engine I had the same problem and added a Crank Case Vent Filter and disconnected the Crank Case Vent Tube from The Air Box. So, I did the same thing on the 87'VR. The pics below show the plumbing that I removed, How I plugged the two holes in the Air Box, The New Vent Filter, and the final result. Any Questions, Feel free. Earl
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Ok, I asked this before with no replies, let's try once more: I receive my box with the AIR KIT STEALTH BARON RSTD 96-2000. I know that on one of the carburetors I saw a slow movement of the diaphragm getting back to the normal position, and I think that was also a little grasse or oily (I think that cilynder is the reason of some backfires). I'm trying to fix this problem and get better performance, so somebody has some experience with this??? Any help will be welcome. Thanks :detective:
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I just bought an 88 Venture,it was a basket case electrically,I have almost everything working now,but I gat an E6 on the air ride screen,any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem.I have removed the rear luggage rack and have ready access to the air componets,any help would be greatly appreciated,also you guys have a great forum here,glad to be a part of it.
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Anyone have a surefire way to repair a hairline crack in a 28mm carb??Bought this 99RS and discovered a hairline crack at the base of the #3 carb where it goes into the intake.Sucking air and backfiring.
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Hi I have read several posts about the K&N air filters. I am assuming the only advantage to going to a K&N type filter is that it is reusable and thus in the long run cheaper than replacing the stock filter over the life of the bike. Is there any other advantage? Besides all the hubris and claims, does the K&N actually have an impact on HP all by itself? I find that quite hard to believe so if anyone has any actual hard, factual information they would like to share I would be happy to hear it. Thanks in advance Chris -
Did somebody installed the Air Kit Baron BA-00-2000 for RS or RSTD 96-2000? Any recommendation? Still cannot improve mileage on my 97... :confused24:
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My brother in Wisconsin is having trouble figuring out his 91 VR. He's paid up here but I have more time. He reported sluggish performance at speed. I had him run his bike cold for a minute and #3 didn't warm up. He pulled off his air box and diaphragm cover. The carbs looked clean, was probably cleaned by the dealer before he sold it, but he sprayed it down with carb cleaner anyway, and got it to spray up through the jets. He pulled the plug, grounded it against the case and reported seeing it spark. So he put it back together. It ran rougher than before, which sounded like a new air leak but he hasn't gone back to check. The plug wire on #3 had a cap that was pretty chewed up. He's thinking of replacing all the plug wires. I've suggested his next step is to get his ohm meter out to test resistances of his ignition circuit, but other than saying that I don't know how to do it. Any other diagnostic suggestions would be welcomed, as well as a pointer to resistance testing info. I've found a few scattered but not a definitive write up. Thanks! Tom
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Hi guys, After pitching my tent in Scooter & Karen's back yard Saturday, I believe I'm just not quite as young as I used to be. I've never needed anything under me except my sleeping bag for a good nights sleep. Unless of course I had the wife with. Then I had a queen sized, double thick air mattress in a very large tent to sleep on. But due to recent events, I find only myself in my small tent. Nope, I still haven't given up all hope for us as of yet. But any who, or is that any whom? I need suggestions for a small, good air mattress or cushion for just myself to sleep on. Small and light when stowed is a must. Or at least preferred. Thanks guys! Bill
