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Well figured I would post this here just to see if we have any out board Techs or folks familiar with this engine. Here's what I have got. 1995 Yamaha 225TXRT. Carbureted (6 individual) 76 degree V6 First noticed the problem as a surge sensation running at 4000, would get an intermittent burst for 1-2 secs then drop back. Had a little miss stutter I could detect coming up on plane, but otherwise planes easily (226 GW Seafarer). Replaced spark plugs, ran the same. Ran it for about an 1 hour after that. Checked the plugs and number 2 looks new. Here's what's been done. The engine has spark on all six at idle and I have visually verified spark at the spark plugs on all six at cranking speed (old school test with plug in the boot). Checked the ignition coils resistance primary and secondary windings. All OK per spec. Checked the resistance on the spark plug caps and found #2 way out . Replaced the spark plug cap on # 2. Test ride no change. Swapped complete coil assembly between #2 and #4, Still no change, problem does not follow the coil. Still missing with no coloring of the #2 plug. Resistance of Both Charge Coils and each of the 6 poles of the pulser coil are in spec. Using the Yamaha (Electro Specialties) CDI Tester (Black box with the dial, light and High/low switch) The Pulser coil (all six poles), the charge coils, and the CDI outputs to the ignition coils (using the specified load coil) all test in range. All of them tested higher than the minimum specified set point. Spec for CDI output to coil is dial at 75 and switch on high. All 6 cdi outputs would continue to light the light up to a dial setting of 82. Cranking speed with all plugs removed. Same for pulser coil output. Spec is 45 and low switch. All 6 poles will light the light with a dial setting up to 55. Repeated the output tests with the Yamaha CDI tester with engine hot. Same result. Ran boat with Air intake removed and confirmed fueling on #2 with same spray pattern as 4 and 6. Fresh fuel, 90 octane No ethanol Recreational marine fuel, New Racor filter, have never had any fuel starvation problems. Still have even compression 125-130 in all cylinders. Can Pulser Coil check good at cranking speed and be bad at higher Speed?? Pulser coil is over $300.00 don't want be wrong on this. Anyway to check if I'm dropping the pulser for #2 under load?? Don't have a winky blinky (Yamaha Diagnostic Tool YB 6444), but the manual says it works on mine. Is the winky blinky a reliable test? Would you condemn a pulser based on the Winky blinky code? Have I missed, not checked anything obvious that would effect just #2? Thank You in advance for any help, suggestions, Derrek -
When I look at the turn signals on the front, they stay lit all the time and flash for turn signals, the rear only flash for turn signals. Looking to add more light to the back, has anyone tried mounting front turn bodies on the rear and wired them as running and turn signals? -
Trying to figure out a small problem with a LED light. I have power at the end of the wires, I have continuity across the LED poles, but I have no light??!!! Now I am no electrical wizard, but it seems that with those premises I should be illuminated. What's going on, do LED's not work the same way as a regular bulb? Enlighten me please!!
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So I'm not sure if mine does not work but I have never seen it. I have got to reserve and drove 40 miles and the fuel gauge shows 1 bar and then none but no light?????? I am happy to say the I have been getting around 45-47 mpg
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I purchased a set of the Doss Teardrop spotlights with built in amber parking light / turn signal. The parking light / turn signal is LED. The turn signal works fine, although it flashes a bit fast, but with my stock rear turn signals all is still fine. That said, the parking light does not work when wired to my stock parking light wiring. Does anyone have experience with these? I am sure my stock parking light wiring has power both through my test light and it will light the LED when wired through the LED turn signal feed. Help?
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Hello Riders Looking for the chrome cover to the driving light bar on the front as well as a light bar spacer. I emailed the contact listed on the site for the spacer, never responded to my inquiry. My scoot was missing the U-shaped chrome cover (Yamaha does not have this single itme available) and I would like to also install the spacer to make it easier to access/cowling removal. Any out there looking for sell or move these items?
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has anyone tried the green light trigger magnet you stick to bottom of bike? do they work? and would a strong magnet stuck near engine cause any problems with the bikes elec. systems i have completly stock 83. I am curious as i have 1 intersection thats on my way home and when its late hardley no car in site .and i have tried every section of the dam sensor, it just won't pich up a mc. i have even talked to hwy dept's manager of town and even the one at state level, just got the same ole "we'll check on it "
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Just an idea I thought I would pass along. Adjusting the passing lamps is such a pain in the a-hold I decided to find an easier way. Checking the alignment and tightening the adjustment nuts with the sealed beams out was the issue for me. They always moved and I could never get them exactly where I wanted them. So I made a tool to help with the job. It is very simple and I made it out of a piece of scrap wood. The notch goes around the headlight and butts up to the passing light housings. The housings will be held pointed straight ahead. Then I use a small level from Harbor Freight for the vertical setting. This makes it easy to keep them both the same when I tighten things up. Mike
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Hi, Ive searched for this problem but didnt find any specific info. I have an 83, with twenty thousand miles. My oil light comes on, even though my oil level is correct. Ive done the cc vent to atmosphere, and that cured the burping thing that was going on. The oil light starts out, off at a cold idle, but will usually come on, after a few minutes riding, then will go off again usually after about twenty mins or less of riding. It will also tend to come on, if I corner and lean a lot. I dont ride it hard , so heavy acceleration isnt turning it on. I think, perhaps there is a cause and its thus, while cold idling, the bike has lots of oil in the sump, so the lite if off, after thirty seconds or so, some of that oil is up in the engine and since its cold, doesnt drain back to the sump correctly. After the twenty or so minutes, the oil is so hot that it drains back quickly thus curing the oil lite. If this is true, then I would benefit from putting in a lighter oil, but it appers that there is general agreement that 15 forty diesel oil is about what I would want. Would there be any benefit to running a cleaner of some kind in the oil, just prior to changing it, I dont even know if this exists, but am asking and if you know a brand name lets hear it. I have also, read about re soldering the cmu, since I dont know about that,are there any instruction on line on how to do that. I actually also have the brake lite coming on rarely. I know there is plenty of brake fluid in it so I assume that is a re solder item also. I also have read something about checking the sending unit and wiring for the oil level light. If someone can tell me how to use the MM to check it I would very much appreciate it , or better yet send me to the url to check it is. Thanks in advance guys, I am pretty hep on how to work on the xs11 bikes, but this venture is quite new to me.
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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"
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Ive got a Yamaha light bar on my 2005 RSTD. One of the driving lights got busted in it. Anyone know of an aftermarket 4 1/2" sealed beam light or replacement light I can replace it with? Yamaha said they're on back order till Oct ? Cheers, Steve
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my rear blinkers are not flashing. the front ones work fine. when i use the blinker either to left or right my brake light flashes and the blinkers dont ??? whats the problem and where do i start? thanks in advance steve
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I have a problem at red lights. The sensor in the road doesn't see the RSV. I added a green light trigger magnet and it still dosen't see it. My last bike was a 04 V-Star and it triggered the lights just fine. Anyone have any ideas? I have a large bar magnet that I'm thinking of strapping to the underside of the bike.
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The wife bought me three 18" red LED light strips to mount on the RSV, which I'll probably mount under the tank rim so that they will light up the chrome in the engine area. Just not sure about what kind of on/off switch to get or the best place to mount it. Any suggestions?
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A married couple were killed early Sunday morning when they were rearended by a drunk driver at a stop light. Wonder if this will be covered up like the cop in Indianapolis that killed that biker at a stop light while driving drunk. http://www.centralillinoisnewscenter.com/news/local/Married-Couple-Killed-in-Motorcycle-Accident-127096963.html?fb_comment_id=fbc_10150338535876495_19156833_10150339084931495
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Any recommendations on the best light weight enclosed trailer to haul a venture? Tried an open trailer this past year and the bike was a mess after every trip. Need something that is fibreglass or light weight enclosed with some level of suspension. Lost a few bolts on the bike when hauling it on a trailer with no suspension. Looking at hauling the venture a few thousand miles every year behind a new 4 cylinder SUV
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I am looking for the light assemble only for the lower out side light kit that went around the bags made by Drag Specialties for the Venture from 1983 threw 1985. If any body has one that they would like to sell please let me know. Thanks AL -
Just listed my Venture in the classifieds. I think I am giving up touring.. since I was sick in the hospital two years ago I have had tons more trouble with my sinuses and pollen and junk in the air affect me much more, I often find myself with light head aches needing to take sinus meds, and with or with out the meds I am often light headed. I just don't feel safe taking long trips on bike anymore. I also have my Sportster listed, but if I sell the Venture I will probably keep the Sportster for around town and short trips. At this point I plan on switching to a sports car of some sort.
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Apparently I am search challenged.. I have searched everywhere I can think of and can't seem to find the answer I just put together my bike trailer and will be ordering the hitch and Hoppy adapter/isolator. I also plan to mount a fuse box. I am thinking there is enough room under the seat of my 2005 RSTD to mount the fuse block but where does everyone tie into the wiring for the Hoppy?? I have seen a couple of threads where people menitoned splicing into the area at the tail light... Sorry for the questions, just get a little paranoid when messing with the electrical system and don't waht to fry anything.. Anything with pics would be great... Thanks.. Robert C.
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The only thing I have left to do is get this dang trailer wired up before leaving for Cody. If anyone could pop the passenger seat off their bike and take a pic of their wiring it would sure help a bunch. I have a Motorvation trailer that has a 5 wire setup directly from the factory so I don't think I need any type of converter, and I do have the RSV wire color chart. Has anyone wired a 5 to 5 wire?? Another thing I'm runing into is the wire guage at the 6 way plug under the seat. Looks like 18ga on my '99, but yet when I get behind the brake light the wires are the more larger 14ga size. Yes, I did look behind the light just to see what was available. I just thought a pic would help me a bunch.... Any help would be appreciated.
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Here is what I know The bulb is good. I have 12 volts on the R/Y side The RLU isnt pulling the ground down to light the bulb. Is this a common failure of the RLU? I found an interesting thread on removing/bypassing the RLU. That idea deserves some thought. When my starter switch needed cleaning, that particular device didn't tell me that my light was out anyway! -
diamone r led light question
david Taylor posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I recentlyh purchased the Led slimline light from Daimond R. I'm not very elecrically oriented and I can't tell how to wire it. they recommend under the seat but I can't tell what wires are what. it comes with a brown and green wire, do I connect it to the brown and green wire under the seat. I also just installed the 100 led light from custom dynamic. I'm assuming this isn't too much current for the bike. any help to my ignorance would be apprecaited. thanks David. -
Hello Everyone: Thanks to everyone who recommended the Signal Dynamics 100 LED tail light upgrade. Mine arrived today. 5 Minutes installation or less. Very impressed!!! This should be the very first SAFETY item added to any bike. Thanks again.....Mark
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Im in the process of putting led light strips in the rear trunk light bar on my 91 vr. It is already wired for running ,brake , and turn signal. Im replaceing the incandescent bulbs with light strips to save on some electrical draw. Not sure if Ill replace the turn bulbs or not as they are only on briefly. I have arleady replaced the running bulbs with 2 12 inch superbright led strips. Going to replace the brake bulbs with the same size srtips. Here is the Question. Since its already wired for brake lights in there, is there a flasher module I can put inline to make the strips for the brake lights falsh instead of being solid or at least flash a few times before they go solid. Any help will be apreciated. TAhnks in advance David
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