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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. George the Oil broke down and therefore you liked it more. Use lighter Oil next Time ( 10 Weight). I'd put that on the Schedule soon. I generally recommend synthetic Fork Oil. Holds up way longer than standard Oil. Oehlins has the best Oil with Non-Friction Enhancers. Might cost a Dollar or three more but it's worth the Money. But it's only for use with fresh Seals, it will seep a little bit when then Seals are used.
  2. Now, the biggest Question is ... Are you sure of that ??? :fingers-crossed-emo:255:
  3. Sure, this would be a good Start.
  4. Whose gonna benefit when you're doing Tax Papers with that Kind of Affinity to Numbers today ?
  5. Just guessing at that Point ... Choke Levers don't close completely ??
  6. Now, that's a true one !! AHHHNDDD .... a good One too !!!! :crackup:
  7. Squeeze

    Seat Bolts

    It might NOT be a Good Idea to have the Nuts on the Seat .... Nuts is the Candy Bar you're talking about, aint you ?? http://www.nestle.de/Home/MarkenProdukte/UnsereProdukte/SchokoladeSuesswaren/Nuts/default.htm
  8. I've said this since four Years or so ... When talking about Money, i'd forbid the use of the "Billion" and "Trillion" as well as the next Potency. This goes for everybody, Government, Politics, Company Leaders and Media. If they want to talk about any Amount of Money, they would be restricted to use "Million". A Billion is 1000 Million Dollars and that's what i made them say, nothing else... A Company lost one "Billion" ?? huh, i'm sorry to hear ... NO, they ought to say "We lost one thousand Million Dollars" !!! The Gov' shells out bailing Money .... let them name it by figural Numbers !! That would show them and everybody else what Numbers they're really talking about. A Million Dollars is a Number all People can imagine. And they all can relate what it takes to have one. Fine for each misuse in public would be 100,000.00 USD for the first Mishap, 500,000.00 for the second and one Million for the third. After that i'd set a exponential increase. One Million is 1x10^6 Dollars, then 1x10^7 USD(ten Million), next Time 1x10^8(one hundred Million) and so on ...
  9. Yes, that's what i'm talking about, the 72 th Gear Wheel or Idler Gear. Pic#2 in hdroyer's Pics above.
  10. This doesn't look too bad. There are some flat Areas on the Rollers, the Contact Area to the Rollers on the 72th Wheel doesn't look too bad either. Well, i sincerely don't know what to say. Depends on what you're doing with the Bike. If this is a daily Commuter, I'd not hesitate to undo the three Bolts and inspect the copper colored Part underneath the round Sheet Metal. They break once in a while and you will have to this again very soon. If you only use the Bike on/off throughout the Season you can replace the Rollers, Springs and Dowels. I know a Lot of Guys which tried to be smart (and cheap) and just replaced these Parts and came back within a Time Frame from four Weeks to 3 Months. If i where you, you have most of the Job right now and for the Peace of Mind and for not possibly doing this again very soon, I'd go for the complete Set including the Wheel. You don't need the Housing if it's not broken now. But saving the Money for the Wheel and three Bolts isn't worth doing it again. If you need to come back soon, you will need the Wheel and new Parts anyway. Gasket should be save able. But when you have Time to spend anyway and actually like to turn a Wrench, why not ? ( I'm not playing Devil's Advocate here, just telling it the Way i see it)
  11. Pics of the dismounted Parts would be great if you want an Opinion.
  12. Probably too much Money ?? :scratchchin:
  13. On a MKI the Trim is 3 Pieces, a left and a right Wing, and the Center Part are clipped togehter. On the MKII has changed to only one single Piece.
  14. PLEASE no Torch to the Flywheel, this might ruin the Magnets. If you can't help at all, use a electric Heat Gun and warm only the inner Hub Part. You nee a 32mm box Wrench to hold the Rotor and a 19mm or 24mm Socket for the Bolt Head. I use a 12 Point Socket without any Problems so far. But use a T-Handle and a Tube for Extension. This Bolt is tightened with 130 Nm, so eat some Spinache before attacking ...
  15. There will be around 0.1 Liter coming from middle Drive Gear Cover and 0.2 - 0. Liter from the Stator Cover when you palce the Bike on the Center Stand. If you put a Piece of Woood underneath the left Leg of the Center Stand and secure the Bike with a Strap or two, there will be almost nothing coming out. Might be a good Idea, because you won't have to fight Gears from the Starter doing what they want.
  16. If the Noise disappears when you pull the Clutch Lever, the Bearing in the Pressure Plate is gone. This sould be covered by the Warranty, since the Bearing should not be gone that early and it's not a Part that "wears out" by any Meanings.
  17. Now that would be like i'm asking my Wife to get rid of her Garden ... I wouldn't be involved about the Heat THAT would start. Not to mention that riding Motorcyles can be dangerous and it's sure better and safer to ride what your comfortable with than ride what somebody else thinks you have to ride. Plain and simple said ... Ride what you want and like, and if there is something to get rid off, it sure would be more your Hubby than your Bike.
  18. Nope, Jack's a Poet by nature !!! :happy34:
  19. I've heard Nacho talking about the Damage on the European Board, but never saw those Pics. Not a usual Sight, but bad nevertheless.
  20. To answer your primary Question ... You need a DMM which can measure Amps. If you got one, Plug the one Probe End n the Common Connector and the Probe's End in the "A" or "10/20 A" Connector. This is different than measuring Voltage, because you have to bring those two Probe in Series(aka in Line) with the Circuit you want to measure. I.E. While measuring Voltage you place on Probe on the Positive of the Battery and the other Probe to the Negative Post of the Battery. Not so here, you have to unplug the Circuit on a convenient Place and connect one Probe to one End of the Circuit and the other End to the other Side. Thanks to digital Technique, on a DMM you don't need to watch the Polarity. Just make proper Connections and turn the Switch on, read your DMM and your what's going on. But be careful, in Series means both Probe Ends are HOT and if you exceed the Current Rating of the DMM you will burn down the Amperage Measuring Circuit of the DMM. If you keep in Mind, measuring parallel means high Resistance of the Measuring Device, Current means very low Resistance, just like a blank Wire.
  21. This is why some People think all2Gens should have the Vmax final Drive instead of the longer geared Venture Pumpkin. The very loooooooong geared 2Gen Tranny really benefits from the shorter overall gearing without hurting much of the Fuel Consumtion, if any at all.
  22. You probably refer to flatoutmotorcycles ? www.flatoutmotorcycles.com
  23. This has nothing to do with the added Oil Cooler. It's Kind of normal, you need to check /set the Clearances mainly because the Valves hammers itself into the Valve Seat, thereby hardening the Contact Surface. Once this done, there no additional Damage to the Valve/Seat Combination until you let the Clearance run out of Specs and the Seat starts to built up Oil Cole and the Valve is starting to get weak, because of Overheating. The only real Problem here is, and I'm absolutely with Goose here, one won't hear anything wrong in the Valve train as the Clearance will get tighter and tighter over Time. No ticking sound, nothing ...
  24. There's not much to add to Pegscrapers's Statement. The Shift Ratchet Mechanism is behind the Clutch Basket and it sound like this is the Culprit. Normally, it should be an easy Fix, only Special Tool is you have to have a Clutch Hub Holder available, becuse you nedd to undo the Center Nut to get the inner Hub and the Clutch Basket out. The Nutz is tightend with 130 Nm and without a Holder Tool, you're somewhat lost or damaging Parts while try to work with Crutches.
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