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Squeeze

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  1. Squeeze
    It's not a Crossover, it's the Engine Breather Assembly. But There is Oil and Coolant going through it, as well as the Case Breather. You need new O-Rings. There are two special formed O-Rings and Aluminium Washers for the Banjo Bolt
  2. Squeeze

    help please

    Squeeze replied to hipshot's topic in Watering Hole

    41R is the Model which this Part was first time used. This Number doesn't matter much 1FK-14940-09-00 - '09' is the Number for a superceeded Part. 1FK is the first Vmax Model Number
  3. Squeeze
    I really don't know what you're talking about, but maybe it's for Safety Reasons? I heard from Yammi, that they have to remove steel Bolts on the Windscreen of FJR's or similiar which someone(the Owner himself) mounted in exchange of the stock Plastics Nuts and Bolts during Service. The sharp Edge of the Screen could hurt the Rider when crashing and so, the Bolts have to break a Lot earlier than the Screen.
  4. Squeeze
    Whatever you think there might be, all european Countries run on same Law, and our Bikes can not pass the Test on the Standards since 1st of July, 2006. If the Bikes has no had a Registration in Europe before that Date, there's no Way to pass Import Inspection on these Standards. A Friend of mine tried this with a new 2006 Vmax in Spain. NO Way. A used(formely registrated elsewhere) Bike might be another Story. I've been in Czech Republic often and do Business with some Customers there permanently. btw ... 1st - Czechoslovakia isn't anymore since 1993, it's Czech Republic and Slovakia, two States 2nd - do not underestimate those former russian-guided Countries. E.G. They have had EPA Laws sharper than Germany has had for quite a while. They copied our preservation order and forced their People heavily to work in Order to that. This applies to Czech Republik and also, with minor Degression to Poland as well as to all the other small Countries near central Europe which mostly are Part of the european Community. The newer EU Members, well, this is another Story, but they're getting a Lot of Money to catch up on all Standards. And they make Progress, no Doubt.
  5. Squeeze
    Hi, if you want to buy a Bike and bring it to Europe, you'd probably look out for a candian Bike, because they are metric on the Instruments and you would have less Discussion on the Inspection. But i think you will have Problems with a new(2007 or 2008) Bike. The Pollution Standards these Bike offers are not up to the Laws in Europe. Not even a californian Model would pass the Test which are needed since mid 2006. I doubt that Yammi in Czech would give you a COC Form with fitting Standards on Pollution.
  6. Squeeze
    Well, buy german !!! german Beer !!!! :cool10::cool10: Sorry for my long winded "Speech". I just want to have that explained with my best "Kraut-English". As the Captain in Hunt for red October said to Alec Baldwin .... "It was a long Time ago, I don't know if i'm not sure about morsing the Measurements of the Playmate of the Month or anything else" :rotf::rotf:
  7. Squeeze
    Jeremy, Bearing Problem might not be the Look(worn or flat Spots) but the unround Seat of the Races in the Frame. I've written about this a Year ago. See, when they fabricate the Frames, the Seats are welded to the Tube in the Frame. As you know, welding always makes Things a Bit contorted, but they do nothing about that. They just press the Races in their Seats while further Production. This projects the Unroundness of the contorted Seats to the inside of the Races, where the Rollers should have a consistent Contact to the Race. and this is what make Things worse. Under Pressure the Rollers get a sharp contact on one Point and loose fit on the Point 1 Degree turned left or right. You can feel this while trying to adjust the Head Bearings. On one Point it will feel very tight, almost locked up, when you turn the Steering a bit to left or right you feel like you should tighten it more for the Size of the Locknut Gap. You do nothing, you move the Handlebars one more Time from left to right and it feels god to go, next Movement brings back the first Impression and so on. This is why Emil Schwarz invented the glueing of the Races into the Steering Head. The Races come in a proven round Shape and because they are not forced while the Loctite 648 gets hard, they stay it that Position after the Process. This results in the fine Experience that you can really ADJUST the Bearing as you think it should go, turn them tighter and the Handlebars move harder. First Time, i did this to my Max, not because i have had a Problem with it, but while i was mounting my new Upside Down Forks, i needed new Bearings and Races anyway. The Result was really amazing, almost unbelievable. I did know about the Change before, and expected a Progress, but even under those Circumstances, i was very pleased with the Outcome. Please don't get me wrong, i won't say that is the Solution or the holy Grail of Chassis and Suspension Works, but since i did this, i've done it on several Bikes and, together with other work related opened Nuts and Bolts, it always cured these Issues. I know, i'm talking about a hundred USD in Parts and, depending on the Tools you can utilize, between 4 and 8 Hours Work time, but can you take your Hands of the Bars at 140 mph without the Fear of another beginning Wobble Expierence ?? And, from my Expierence, even while i'm swabian and very cheap on Parts, i will never ever buy or mount cheap Aftermarket Bearings on Steering Heads or Swingarms anymore. The Material is weak, way softer than any Yammi or SKF, Timken Steel. Cracked or broken Frame ??? I won't put one single Buck on this. But you never know. One of my often used Phrases ... "don't assume anything, check it"
  8. Squeeze
    Well, i believe it doesn't make it any better, when you triple your Statement ... :rotf::rotf::rotf:
  9. Squeeze
    I did warm the engine up to check cylinder temps! Dan Well, then that's counts :bighug:
  10. Squeeze
    If i remember right, the Thread is M14x1.5 There's no difference between 1200cc and 1300 cc.
  11. Squeeze
    After you dismounted the Weight, start your Compressor and plug on the Airgun. Use a Screwdriver to lift a small Part of the Grip and blow the Air between The Grip and the Handlebar. You will have the Grip undone with three or four Turns on the Grip.
  12. Squeeze
    Hi, only Thing i have to add on SaltyDawg's Statement is ... these Fuses blow on somehow tripple the designed Current. A 20 Amp Fuse goes out at 55 to 60 Amps. This is for a single, sudden Shortcut. If you run constantly too much Draw, the Wire inside the Fuse will melt a bit anytime this occurs. And while melting, this Wire will allow less and less Overdraw. The Overdraw is normal and can not be avoided, so the Fuse will blow. This happens, according to Murphy, in the Situation were you will need the Circuit urgently.
  13. Squeeze
    The Out of Alignment Theory ... Yamaha stated here in Germany, that the Offset between front and rear Wheel of a Vmax within 9mm would be OK. 9 mm, that's 0.35 Inches ... I don't think that would be the Way i like it, but even will not cause a Wobble. The Bike is just pulling to one Side.
  14. Squeeze
    Hi, i never expierenced something like that, nor do i know a specific Answer to cure it. Some Folks i know, have had similar Problems and got them fixed, but they did several Things at one Time and so there is no single Answer to this. What i would do, is ... 1st open al Pinch Bolts on the Fork Legs and retighten them from the lower to the upper End with the Wheel off the Ground 2nd recheck the Fluid Level in the Legs and ensure they are equal and a 10 Weight Oil 3rd dismount the Bearings, grind the Seats wider to give the new Races a loose fit, buy good new Bearings and glue them in with Loctite648 Of Course, a Test ride would be in Order between the Steps.
  15. Squeeze
    This is the only Harley i would prefer ...:cool10::cool10:
  16. Squeeze
    I'm with Pegscraper on this Issue
  17. Squeeze
    http://flatoutmotorcycles.com
  18. Squeeze
    But owning and riding a 1Gen is more Fun .... We 1Genners do not need to bring up that "FASTER" Issue that often ... we are ... and we all know that ... :cool10:
  19. Squeeze
    Sorry for my false Word ... What i meant is the Tubings which connect the Thermostat Case and the Radiator Hoses.
  20. Squeeze
    I totally agree with Rick Butler's Statement. As long as your not going to more Power on the Engine, there is no need for the Barnett Plates.
  21. Squeeze
    Well Brad, like all the others have said before, i'm glad you both are relatively Ok. I will keep you in my Thoughts and hope for a quick and less painful Recovery. The Bike will be replaced and the sooner you can get on an new one, the better the Healing will outcome. This is not the Kind of PMS anybody wants to suffer.:bighug: Message to all Ventureriders .. please stop making up such News, i can't stand them anymore. Watch out on the Road, double check your Bike. On new Years Eve with the Friends, we said, we survived 2007, lets make sure that we can say this also in the End of 2008 !!!
  22. Squeeze
    Who am i, sending a fellow Member SNOW ?? ?? I don't want that white Troublemaker and PMS-Generator in my Neck of the Woods, neither do i want to plague others with this. On the other Hand, i'm tinkering around with my EFI and i'm 4 Weeks behind the Schedule. Need to get the 40mm Throttle Bodies completed and connected to the Airbox. Computer is tested and partly programmed. A other Exhaust needs to get a O2-Sensor mounted. Once i have the new Intake System ready, mounting and Rest of the programming should be done on a Saturday. New Schedule says, first Flight should be in first Week in March. Weather shouldn't be Problem then. At least some Days per Week. I really do not know how you have to spend on a Vmax Motor in the States, but i'm sure if you want to go this Way, a complete Engine might be the better Choice. The 2nd Gear Fix itself might not be expensive, but it takes a Lot of Work and also some Parts, at least some Gaskets, which also cost some Bucks nowerdays. Also a complete second Motor would allow you to work on your Engine without the Pressure of Time. The Units fit bolt on, just the Shift Linkage needs to be exchanged.
  23. Squeeze
    Good Morning, i would like to underline the 'probably' in your Statement. I do know how your GFI' are dimensioned. We use 50 mA for such Purpose. Of Course, with 240 Volts instead of your 110 Volt System. Anyways, my Experience is, when those GFI go wild under nearly normal Conditions, first change extension Wire, hide the Receptacle in a dry Place. If this doesn't help, change the GFI. These Units tend to trip very early when they have tripped often in Past. They just plain fail in other then dry Conditions. This is the same with Circuit Breakers. Dan, i agree totally with your Opinion on 110 Volt System. But you have to see that this comes from History and i don't see how to change it now or in the Future. The Losses in the System are tremendous and there is not enough Safety gained with the lower Voltage to compensate the Disadvantage. The Currents which flow in low Voltage Systems are much higher and need a much higher Wire Diameter and therefore also just plain much more Copper. 60 Hertz Systems are easier to compensate and produce less reactive Power.
  24. Squeeze
    Hey Mama, i just can't see you working that hard !! Please close the Kitchen Door :rotf:
  25. Squeeze
    Hi Jeremy, yes, you do not need to remove the Stator Cover to dismount the Starter Motor. Once you got it out, try to make a proper Ground Connection of the Brush Main Plate, stated here. http://members.chello.nl/c.cornwall/Startmotor/startmotor.htm Best Thing you can do, is to replace every O-Ring on the Elbow, the Thermostat Cover and on the Coolant Rig on the Front of the Motor. Working on the Rig and Thermostat is a pita and you don not want to Deal with this a second Time.
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