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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Well, i don't think this Thread is the right Place to discuss this Part of the Issue, but i will give you some of my Thoughts... You say, the Mechanics can't get the Idle right? If you would have the Knowledge, YOU would show them how to get it fixed. Second, last Time i talked with the Guy who manufactures the complete EFI Systems, he has had sold more then 60 Systems to various V4 Bike Owners all over the Planet. Believe it or not, there are Folks on Earth, which do not give a damn about what you want to spend, they open their Wallet and pay what is needed to acheive their Goals. Their Attitude might be different to yours, the may have a different Mind about (in case of the US mostly green) printed Paper. They buy a 1500cc Motor with around 190 hp and go for a Ride. Some Weeks later, they come back and say fine ... but it's not enough, i want more Power. The Guy who invented the EFI for our Bike, did it not with the Intend to make Money out of it, he did it because he wanted to MAKE it. That's why Mankind takes some Steps into the Future, Money or Attitude. He has made a Living out it, after getting his Master Degree in mechanical Engineering, but nevertheless, he is still one of us. Third, once the Exchange Rates between Euro and USD will be better, the Price in US will go down significant. Fourth, i'm sure you do not known what your talking about. Costs of reliable Motortuning are expensive. Once you get past first or second Stage Tuning, which would cost you around 2 Grand, you will have to spend 2 Grand on every 3 hp you try to Gain. Did you read that "try to" ? Fifth, shaving Pounds of a Bike is cheaper ? Ok, the first Pounds might be easy, but once you have undone all unnecessary Items, how to go on ? I can tell you, Carbon Fibre Parts are a Lot more expensive than some mechanical Parts. Best and easiest Way to gain a better Power/Weight Ratio is Bio-Tuning. This means the Rider has to loose Weight. Lots of Weight.
  2. Don't look a the pure Numbers. 13 hp makes it 13 Percent more Power. and 13 Percent more Power out of Engine like ours is a huge gain. If you do the Work and engineering on your own, you do not spend that much Money. More like 1000 USD. As for the Name of the "Megasquirt-"Game ... ask Bowlin and Grippo about how they came up with it. :rotf::rotf: I'm sure you do not understand why People are doing this. It's not only about the Gain, it's also about "i can do that" or "i've done that on my own". And once you got such a EFI straightened out, you never ever will be afraid of an EFI. This is upcoming Technology. You will find it sooner or later on every Motor which has a Sparkplug. Also every newer Diesel-Engines works the same Way. You learned the Lessons early and get your Money back later in Live.
  3. I have no Boots for a 1Gen at the Hand, but i have Vmax Intakes and a Motor sitting on Bench and in the Corner of the Shop. Might take some Pics if you like to have them. Vmax Max Boots are 42mm round on the Carb Flange Side, like Pegscraper said. When i remember right, the Connection of the older Keihin TB's was 44 mm but, like i said, unround. I think, the Vmax Boots won't fit this 2Gen, because of the Hight over the Intake Ports when mounted on the Heads. The 1Gen Boots are a bit shorter than the Vmax Ensemble, if i remember right. This would give you more Room (10mm??) in Height.
  4. I'd dismount the Bleeder Valve, open the Master and putt some Rags inside and around the Master, let a Helper hold them in Place and carefully blow Air into the Bleeder Hole to assured the Line is not clogged. Then, i would fill the Master half way with Fluid and wait until it's seeping out at the Bleeder Hole. Then mount the Bleeder Valve, fill the Master and try to bleed it another Time. If it's going to Work, fine. If not, I'd elevate the Master to the next level of Existance. forget to mention it at first ... make sure, that the Line has absolutly no Bend upwards. The Reservoir has to be the highest Point in the System. If you mounted the MC somehow in an upwards Angle, losen it at the Bar and turn it in a Way that the Line is always turned downwards. Once you got a upwarded Bow in the Line, you will go crazy and not get it proper bleeded for Years.
  5. It wasn't promoted anywhere, but i did know about it. How i came to that Knowledge ?? I don't remember :rotf::rotf::rotf:
  6. Maybe Don or a Mod can merge both Threads ?
  7. here are Procedures for TCI testing ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10640 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15135 here's the baking Procedure http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=99580&postcount=3
  8. Well, to answer your original Question ... I think you have a Ton of Things to check. Don't overdo it, because in the End you might not know where's the End or where the Beginning was. Another Thing is, you better not open more than one Thread about your Issues as long as they seem to bet related to another. Not everybody reads everything and it might be hard to follow when one has to open several Threads about was has been done and what checked out fine. As for the Moisture around and probably inside the CDI, GeorgeS has written down a Procedure about cooking the CDI in the Oven to get all the Moisture out of the Case.
  9. Well, i think the Words "Motorcycle Magazine", "unbiased" and "Review" used in one Sentence could give you a good Chance of forming an Oxymoron. :rotf::rotf:
  10. That all said, our European Countries have not enough Space to produce enough Wheat, Corn whatever used and needed. They want to substitute 10 Percent of Gas in middle this Year. Right now, we are on 5 Percent and have not enough Space. We buy it from Malaysia. They also do not have extra Space, but they can make some Space for growing OUR (german/european) Ethanol Plants. They just burn down their Rain Forrests ..... Figure that
  11. Or a good Way to get very fast a new Engine ... :rotf::rotf: That "Racing Shift Pattern" is good when riding very fast and there is Need to shift up while being in Incline. Ok, i guess this Idea is a bit corrupted dued to the Floorboards that comes with a standard Heel-Toe Shifter :rotf::rotf:
  12. i like that Idea :whistling::whistling:
  13. The Pressure Plate is the first Piece you can see when you undo the Clutch Cover rear left of the Motor. There is a small Ball Bearing inside the Pressure Plate which is Part the Connection between Clutch Slave Cylinder and the Plate. This wears out when you pull the Clutch while stopping at a Light instead of shifting to Neutral and let the Clutch go. Maybe i misunderstood your Posting. If you are not 100 Percent sure about the Needles being the same, then you better double check them. Maybe the previous Owner replaced them with others or a Jet Kit ? The Fact that you ordered the new one by Part Number does not say anything about the existing 3 other Needles. You can't base your Thoughts on the Look of the Plugs anymore, since the Fuel is unleaded it all different. I'd look at Vacuum Leaks and Seafoam the Carbs until the Snow is gone, then get out on the Road and put some Miles on it first. Of course, with proper balanced Carbs.
  14. I know nothing, but the only Difference i can imagine, would be the Borings on the bottom of the Slides. They could be different Size.
  15. Well, if it wasn't "Charlie the Tuna", maybe it was Flipper ?? Remember the old TV-Series ...:rotf::rotf:
  16. Hi, there are some Things i'd like to mention... First and easiest Part, the Noise from the Clutch .... just ignore it. When the Time to change the Clutch comes some Day, just replace the Bearing inside the Pressure Plate. Next ... K&N Filters are leaning the Mixture. Even a good running Bike may get Issues when replacing the stock Filter with a K&N. As long as you are solving Problems, you'd better go back to a stock Filter. You said, you replaced one Jet Needle and the new appeared different to the other three. This is NOT good. There are more than 6000 different Jet Needles just from Mikuni on the Market. Not counted the Factory Kits, Dynajet Kits and and and ... You better get four equal Needles. This is Part of the Problem. I don't know about your homemade Vacuum Guage, but if you do not trust it, you'd better ensure that you have a accurate Set of Vacuum Guages. These V4 are sensitive in the balancing. How did you adjust the Mixture Screws ? Preset, they should be on 2 and a quarter Turns out from the Bottom. Now, as i read your main Question, i'd say, there are some Jets clogged or Vacuum Leaks on the Intake. Exhaust popping on Idle is mainly a very lean Mixture. If popping occurs mainly on Decelaration, there may be Leaks in the Exhaust, but not on constant RpM. I'd take something burning like Brake Cleaner and spray it carefully around the Intake Boots when the Motor runs on Idle. If the Revs are going up, there's a Leak. Ig nothing changes. The Carbs should be the Culprit. All that said, the CDI could give you similiar Problems, but i wouldn't bet much Money on that in your Case.
  17. Hi, there is no Need for other Injectors. The VFR has 120 to 130 hp. Thats twenty to thirty Percent more than you Bike has. They will fit fine for your Application. The 2004 TB's are different to the ones i have had. The earlier VFR has CQ30A Boddies, the later Have CQ35A. Both are made by Keihin. Sorry, i can't help you on the newer ones.
  18. Yeah that first checking the Plugs, Vacuum Leaks and Carb Synch, then next Levels Countermeasurements
  19. only the early 1Gen have removable, quicklock Bags. The 1300cc has standard Bolts and needs also to dismount the rear Lower Light Braket to undo the Bags.
  20. you take a Screenshot when hitting the Buttons CTRL and Print at the same Time. Then open the Program Paint and Paste the Picture into a new Pic. Now you can cut of what you want and save the Pic with the Extension .jpg. Now you can insert that Pic here in the Board. As this Procedure save Pixels and not Text, yes this Way you can save whatever you want.
  21. I'm not Pegscraper, but i can tell you, the Cranksensor is behind the Stator Cover front left on the Motor. These VFR800 TB's won't help help you much. They have 36 mm Boring, which are the smallest TB's i've seen and researched a Lot of them, but the come in a dual Case. Maybe you can cut them in half and add some turned Adapters to match the Throttle Lever to the new Width. You will have to remove the Idle Air Valves in order to get both TB Casing closer together. You will have to get the VFR Rubber Boots. They have out of Round Connection to the Manifolds. The Distance in between the two Halves is 92mm, between front and rear TB is 298mm and not square, if i remember right. When you got a Set of the early TB's, the Injectors will manage 225 cc per Minute at the stock 2.5 bar, that would be enough for your Bike. Nothing that can't be done, but a Lot of Work.
  22. The first Rotary Engines have had a Lot of Problems with the internal Seals between the Chambers. This is solved through new and better Materials over the Years. Mazda bought the Patents 30 Years ago and brought up several RX Models through the Years with powerful and reliable Motors. Imho, if only 20 Percent of worldwide spend R&D Money in Motors would have been spend for rotary, they would be far ahead over the Piston now. With all the Efforts on finding reliable Power, Torque and far less Pollution, if the Industry would like to push this Technique, it would be easy. But there are a Lot different Interests involved .... Less Parts would made the Industry suffer and so on.
  23. Only the Desmosedici is a V4 Motor. They took the MotoGP Engine and made it street legal and rideable and very exclusive. All other Ducati's are V2 Engines. The 1098 Motor is called 'Testastretta'. For what i know, they use high pressured Air to make the Valves move. Something like small double side action pneumatic Cylinders. This comes from the Formula1 Engines. They have that since Years, because these, former V10, nowerdays V8 Engines work now near 20,000 RpM. There's no Way for Valve Springs in this Dimension of Revelations. There is another Designs on the Market. Take a Look a Rotary Engines. Way smaller Displacement and a Lot more Power, compared to Piston Motors. Combined with a Turbocharger, unbelieveable Power with small and light Engines.
  24. Yes, Turbo Power is real hard to control. Best Description i've ever heard of was in an Article of a Streetfighter Magazine. They had a Turbo Haya on Exploit, made 420 hp on rear Wheel at 1.2 bar Boost. After the Photo Shooting, the Owner asked the Reporter if he wants to take a short Ride.... Secondary Ratio was extreme long, because of no extended Swing Arm ... That said, he made it out of Town on the Autobahn. All was fine, empty Road, not much Traffic, Autobahn was straight ahead for a long Distance ... I try to quote
  25. Well, give Bill Warner a shout, maybe you can rent his Vmax for a short Ride ... http://www.wildbros.com/RACE.html
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