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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. There are 4 nuts on the bottom of the trunk roof that hold the passanger backrest on. Easy to remove. RR
  2. How old (miles) is your front tire? RR
  3. Yes, exactly. The OP had the trip at 14,000 km (that's about 8400 miles). Some may go that long between oil changes, most will not. Although, the Venture manual lists the oil change interval at 8000 miles, I rarely go over 5000 miles and usually change it after 4000. RR
  4. It could have been just a typo - meant to be 1999. However, how would they have this motor with just 500 miles that was 11 years old? Odd. Definately a 2nd gen. No fluid leaking out anywhere. RR
  5. Please note in the OP, they were on a trip that was longer than the oil change interval. Thus, requiring an oil change while on the road. RR
  6. I'm kind of stumped. RR
  7. Great Idea! Never knew this was there. However, does it take a special membership to post in these forum links? Tried to put a 'seat' link in and it denied my access. RR "We are all equal here, some are just more equal than others" Animal Farm - George Orwell.
  8. Same has happened to me. It worked for a month or so, but sometimes doesn't. It seems to go off when I hit the starter button. Now, it won't work at all. I am trading emails with Scott at the Canadian place. Will let you know what happens. As of this point, the only suggestion is to change the fuse from 10A to 30A. However, the 10A fuse is OK and I am getting 12V passing thru the relay to the ballast/igniter. A fuse is a current limiting device, not a current regulating device. Tried the 30A fuse anyway and it still didn't work. Waiting for a reply. RR
  9. This is also a good reason to take your VR.org member listing with you. I expect you could have found a member locally that would have gladly taken care of you. An oil change takes about 15 minutes and you can get the needed supplies at Walmart or Canadian Tire (at least I assume you could get it at CT - you seem to be able to get everything else there). RR
  10. I have had trouble on the road and have generally been well taken care of. However, one thing I have noticed is that the HD dealership network is, by far, the broadest and they WILL get you back on the road if you are travelling. Service is the only reason I would ever go to HD (unless they finally came out with a bike I thought was a better value for the bucks). RR
  11. Tom, Ya should have said something about the brakes. I had two pair of front brake pads with me (although they were for 2nd Gen - don't know if they are the same). Glad you made it home safely. RR
  12. Chris, I need one of the 29mm brass looking nuts that hold the bracket onto the top of the handle bars. While tightening the steering nut on an 88 at the WI maintenance day I dropped one down into the bike and we couldn't find it. If you would like, my brother can come by and pick it up and mail it to me. He lives in Keller. Let me know what you would want for it. Thanks. RR
  13. Wear Your Helmet!!! Sad news. RR
  14. It's probably too late now, but make sure you read your state's laws on divorce. It usually is pretty well spelled out how you will get screwed and the soon to be ex will benefit. Valuations are usually fire sale valuations. On vehicles - trade-in value. On furnishings and home belongings - yard sale values. Electronics - more than 10 years old - worthless. Went thru a mediation and came up with a good plan for both of us. The now-ex took it to a lawyer to review (understandable) and he told her she could get much more out of me. $6,000 in her lawyer fees later (I read the law off the internet) she got virtually the same as was in the original mediated agreement. And yes, she had to pay the lawyer fees out of her part of the settlement. Good luck. Remember there are no winners in a divorce. Sometimes one just looses more than the other. My condolences. It does get better. RR
  15. OK, didn't know that. I have only taken apart a stator on a couple of old ('86 Kawa Vulcan and '82 Suz GS750) jap bikes and they both were dry. Now I know. Thanks. RR
  16. Is there a gasket for the stator cover? There is no oil or anything to seal in is there? There may not even be a gasket. RR
  17. Yup, that is the original Honda Polish. Honda wanted to change the formula (IIRC it was due to California environazi regulations). The manufacturer of the original Honda Polish just put their own label on it and sells it without the Honda name. The NEW Honda Polish is worthless. The original is excellent. RR
  18. I'll try to be there early Saturday morning - 9:00 or so - with a trailer full of goodies. Will need to leave about 1:30-2:00 due to previous commitments (wife's 25 year HS reunion). Looking forward to seeing everyone. RR
  19. For the Venture, get the Russell Day Long. Best money spent if you are riding over 400 miles in a day. If under that, just get an Airhawk pad. RR
  20. The gears in mine still looked good. It was the nose bearing on the pinion that went out. It may in fact have been initially the tail ball bearing that died and then caused the nose bearing to go. Why? Don't know, but I have been thinking about it. Possible causes: 1) Remounting the final drive after lubing the drive shaft, I may have tightened the 4 acorn nuts before tightening down the rear wheel axle nut. Thus causing deflection at the input of the pumpkin. 2) When filling the drive, a bubble of fluid formed across the fill hole, making it appear it was full. But it wasn't. 3) Hard riding in the mountains. My guess is it was #1, although I thought I was always conscientious of the procedure. Bottom line, the design is really solid and if properly maintained, it should last significantly longer than my 85k miles (began having trouble at about 70k). Therefore, a quick inspection of the gears thru the speedometer hole will tell you if the gears are in good shape. Check the pinion for any axial movement which would be allowed with bad bearings. Check the drain plug to see if there are any shavings (likely cleaned before you purchased the drive). Check the drive for gear lash (it is explained fairly well in the repair manual). If all looks in good shape, you should be good to go. Rebuiling a rear drive is not an easy or inexpensive task. I checked. RR
  21. I took this course a couple of years ago. First by myself on a Saturday, and then with my wife as a passanger on Sunday. My clutch smoked about halfway thru the Sunday run dumping my wife and the bike while doing figure 8's. It was an interesting weekend. RR
  22. Got the new (to me) rear drive from CarbonOne installed and on the road. It is amazing how quiet the bike is with a functioning rear end and OEM pipes. I like it. RR
  23. EUSA1 makes them. They look really nice too. RR
  24. That's why I'm coming. (:stickpoke:to ScooterBob) Scooterbob might show up also (he mentioned attending last I talked with him). RR
  25. Yup, I enjoy working on the bike almost as much as riding it - 'almost' being the key word. Just got in from the garage installing a new (to me) rear drive, replaced rear brake pads, new tires, greased pins and splines on wheel, greased splines on drive shaft, oil change, and added CarbonOne braces. It was a good evening. Time to clean up and hit the sack. RR
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