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Keemez

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Everything posted by Keemez

  1. Keemez
    I don't think there's any valid reason to do this (especially with the preservation of release/throwout bearings in mind). I always sit there in neutral instead. In the event of a rapid moveout it only takes a split second to dump er into gear and roll out.
  2. Keemez
    This thought has crossed my mind before as well. The only thing I can think to do is add the same amount every time after the autoshutoff point. In the case of a motorbike, say, maybe .25 gallon. Car/truck you can easily get another .5-1-1.5-2 gals in. It must be consistent though.
  3. Keemez
    That would be this here thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002
  4. Keemez
    I wouldn't walk across the street to see Celine Dion- can't stand her style whatsoever.
  5. Keemez
    How bout this one? (I know... not the same thing, but equally useful) http://www.harborfreight.com/lightweight-aluminum-motorcycle-lift-94715.html
  6. Keemez
    I think I'd extend 'er out another 3-4 feet or so.
  7. Keemez
    Now look what ya done gone and caused FLB... he was tryin to wheelie it per your suggestions!
  8. Keemez
    In Googling "battery discharge concrete" I read several pages which all pointed to the same basic idea: modern batteries are not affected in the same way old ones were. The high insulation value of modern packaging materials should render it a non issue. ... I think.
  9. Keemez
    I'm not sure if I've got the same sound as OP, but I've noticed some light ringing out of mine. Mostly on decel. It's very easy to hear it coasting down an offramp with the clutch pulled in. I've also heard of another one, roughly same vintage (early 90s) having the same or very similar sound, mostly on decel. I kind of understood that this was somewhat common to these?
  10. Keemez

    clutch mod

    Keemez replied to j_berg's topic in Watering Hole

    Maybe the good Doc will give us a package deal- I also need to do the (MK2) upgrade. Whaddya say Earl?
  11. Keemez
    Since I recently switched (some) dash bulbs to LEDs I have also noticed that on the 1-2 upshift I get the same momentary poof of light from the neutral indicator. I simply attributed it to the gear position switch passing through the neutral position enroute to 2nd gear though. As previously alluded to; the delay in incandescent filament powerup vs. instant on/off of LED seems to be the difference in whether you outdated old skool folks see it or not. I'm disappointed that my attempted blue LED backlighting conquest didn't pan out.
  12. Keemez

    So,

    Keemez replied to Black Owl's topic in Watering Hole

    In short, catastrophic detonation.
  13. Keemez
    For those of us in the upper midwest/great lakes region- I noticed Techron brand fuel system cleaner is on sale at Fleet Farm. Ordinarily $5.95/12oz bottle- on sale at $2.50. Be a good time to bulk up on it if you're so inclined...
  14. Keemez
    I delinked & upgraded my 93 with Skydoc's kit. It did make an improvement. I'm not super satisfied just yet with the lever feel- seems to take a pretty hard squeeze to get any serious braking out of it. It's not an air/bleed issue- I'm intimately familiar with all that. I was considering going to a 5/8" master like I thought I had read some others had done. The rear brake operating by itself now is much more touchy- can be locked up at will.
  15. Keemez
    Would soldering a connection be out of the question? Not sure how well that would hold up to area heat.
  16. Keemez
    !!!!!! That's exactly what I was going for and couldn't achieve. I wonder if the difference between the early and later dash panels is the accountable difference. Must be? This was the style LED bulb I used:
  17. Keemez
    Interesting. I too used some blue LEDs for instrument backlighting and was completely surprised at how dim/unreadable they were. After reading some previous posts about this, I suspected I might have to "live with" how bright the instrument lighting would be with LEDs. Such was not the case at all. I have amber LEDs for the turnsig indicators (in-dash, we're talking about), I left a blue LED for the neutral indicator cuz I don't mind that it's more blue than green), blue high beam indicator, stock incandescent 194 for "headlamp/RLU" indicator. Check this out. Here's what my dash looked like with the blue LEDs in: You might notice that my speedometer needle isn't orange but blue. That's because I attempted to make a total revamp of the cluster appearance as part of this project. It almost failed- big time. On the undersides of those needles is a very well-applied coating of some sort which is not easy to remove. I tried sanding it lightly, which was most effective in the long run. Tried light pressure with a soft carbon steel wire brush on the Dremel (too aggressive). Tried some degreasing solvent (this was when I snapped the tip of my tachometer needle right off; you may remember seeing a request from me for one of these not long ago). In the end the best was like I said- light sanding. Then I applied some silver Testors model paint to that same surface in the hope that it would be somewhat reflective but mainly it's just..... silver-ish. After the LED backlighting didn't do the trick for me I thought perhaps 194B (blue) incandescent bulbs would make the difference up. No dice there; they hardly put out any light at all and one of the filaments blew within a minute or two of testing. I managed to talk a 50% refund out of the ebay seller. So now I'm back to stock off-white 194s again because they're the only ones I can get the instruments to light up to a readable level with. Disappointing- I absolutely hate that stock yellowish peachish orangish glow. Blue would have been awesome. Green was my next choice, but I'm not gonna keep throwin $ after it and yanking it apart all the time just to test it.
  18. Keemez
    Was that meant specifically for me? I had tried to clean it up previously myself with any combination of 3M/Scotchbrite pads, wire cup brush/wire wheel/Comet/Ajax/etc etc etc. It was better than when I took delivery of it but still looking pretty neglected. Beadblasting would bring it all back to a uniform look again, but I don't have one. So ultimately they did all the work- blasting was included in the price. The first place wanted on the order of $125/hour ( ) for blasting/cleanup/prep work, then "roughly" 75 for color coating afterwards. I considered just a regular silver/aluminum powder color but then I saw their example of the black metallic on a different part. Guy said it was the same price no matter which of the two colors he did, so I selected the more decorative one. As for front only vs. both; you're on the right track. So little of the rear wheel is visible anyway that I'll probably just leave it the stock silver color. I might just lightly mist it with black in time.
  19. Keemez
    Not sure about chroming but I just had my front wheel (93 VR) powder coated with black metal flake for a total cost of 79.12 with tax. Not too bad, and it looks fabulous in the sun. The first place I had a quote from wanted nearly double that. Get real!
  20. Keemez
    Was it "THE" friend?
  21. Keemez
    I seriously doubt the simple addition of SF would account for a 31% increase in fuel economy. What else was different?
  22. Keemez
    I'd pay a visit to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walnut_Grove,_Minnesota myself if I were heading through there. I'm a little bit of a LHOP buff.
  23. Keemez
    Yessir- that is indeed the Mighty Mac.
  24. Keemez
    I dumped $100 into my F150 the other day; and I didn't even fill the gosh dang thing.
  25. Keemez
    There are fine mesh screens/filters on the outlet tubes, yes. Regarding running choke while using up the final carb bowl contents- I don't think you'd gain anything by doing that. Choke should only theoretically be used as mixture enrichener upon cold startup. Everything I've ever operated would get really stumbly and stall (as one would expect) if the choke was applied to a warm engine. When the bowls are empty enough that the engine vacuum can no longer suck fuel through the jets, there's very little gas left in there in the first place and it will eventually evaporate over time. This is where fuel stabilizers (insert favorite brand name here) are useful in preventing the varnish/gummy buildup in the passages. If one were really gung ho about making sure every last drop is out, you could run it dry/empty and then remove the drain screws and blast compressed air through the carbs until you were blue in the face. I'd say that's overkill though.
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