Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Hey Don, I have an idea for the maintenance day pre-event this year. You know last year we did a carb float seminar on the day before the carnival, so maybe we do a steering head bearing seminar this year? It takes at least twice as much work to do those bearings, but we should still be able to do it if nothing else is going on. I'm open to other suggestions, too. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Here is a shortcut to check the amount of grease in your steering head bearings. The problem here is that the service interval for re-greasing the steering head bearings is every 16,000 miles, but on the RSV, the amount of work it takes (and therefore, MONEY it takes) to access these bearings is HUGE! And it gets exponentially worse if someone has added a bunch of accessories and new wiring inside the fairing. The entire fairing, both outer shell and inner shell, must be removed before the top triple tree can be removed to access the bearing lock nuts. And to remove the inner fairing, you have to totally disconnect every single wire, plug and component inside the fairing! In fact, this whole process is supposedly required to simply ADJUST the steering head bearings, but thankfully we have documented a quick and easy shortcut to sneak underneath and adjust them without removing a single part. But back to the problem at hand - it is a full day's work to properly strip everything to drop the forks out of the steering head and inspect/de-grease the bearings. But I think I have found a relatively easy way to at least check the top bearing without going through the entire process. After splitting the fairing, the inner fairing can be unbolted by simply removing two nuts behind the top of the headlight and two socket-head bolts, one on either side of the bottom of the headlight. Once these are removed the fairing can be pulled several inches forward without disconnecting any of the wires, enough to fully access the top triple tree. With someone to hold the fairing, you could remove the triple tree and the top bearing without much more effort. Certainly the top bearing can be inspected and greased in this way, and if it looks like the bearings really need to be serviced, you could then just put the inner fairing back on the two studs and proceed to disconnect all the stuff needed to properly remove the forks. It seems possible that with enough care (and probably three people), one might even lower the forks enough in the steering head to access and grease the lower bearing this way. I think I am ready to try and make a video of this process if I can find a couple of folks willing to spend a day helping me through it. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    No relays needed - LEDs pull such small current that they can be connected to any circuit without worry. I use a three-switch unit that mounts to the top of the master cylinder - one for aux dash lights, one for my courtesy lights (in the trunk, above the side bags, and a map light), and one of the engine accents. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I just used a variety of LED lights form SuperBrightleds.com. No special kit, but if you don't mind figuring out which lights to put where and coming up with your own switch and wiring, it's pretty cheap to do that way. The easiest and brightest way is to buy a couple of their LED light tubes and put one under each side of the tank and one under each side of the trunk. But if you have the chrome carb covers, you need to use smaller LED pods. Goose
  5. V7Goose

    Info?

    V7Goose replied to Big Daddy's topic in General Tech Talk

    I'd check with a scientific or school supply store, since mercury is such a standard science supply. Even if they cannot sell it any more they should know where/how to get it. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I have no idea what brand name my gauges had all those years ago when I bought them, but they look identical to the pictures in this thread. Before I use any multi-vacuum set the first time, I check it by connecting all the inputs to a single manifold and draw various vacuum levels with a pump to verify accuracy and consistently repeatable values. On my gauges I repeat that test every year or so just to be sure all is as it was. In over 30 years I have only adjusted one gauge slightly two times. If one or more needs to be adjusted, you pop off the front glass and pull the needle off, then replace it in the correct spot. CAUTION - do NOT try to turn the needle on the shaft instead of pulling it off - that will destroy the internal spring that connects it to the vacuum chamber! Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Normal for me is hobbling around squinting out of one eye and drooling . . . What's it to ya? Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Because mercury stix are more bulky, harder to store, easily broken, can loose their mercury from breaking, spilling, or getting sucked into engine, and the stuff is dangerous. As far as I am concerned, they provide absolutely NO benefit over mechanical gauges and a lot of draw backs. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Sorry if my thoughts caused confusion, consternation or discombobulation. In my defense, however, I must state that I have posted my thoughts on those tools several times in the past. Certainly the Morgan Carbtune is very popular with many members here. I do not wish to speak for any of them, but I do wonder if the people who actually say they like it have ever used a better tool? There is also the possibility that someone who has already bought an item and finds it at least usable will at try to tell themselves that they like it instead of publicly kicking themselves for maybe buying the inferior item. The Morgan Carbtune DOES work, but it is easy to get a wrong reading, and it is just not worth the effort to use it for me. The problems with this tool are instantly noticeable every time it is used, and I have personally pointed them out to many who have watched me use it. The mechanical gauges work absolutely consistently and with no variation every time. True, the needles have to be individually looked at instead of just seeing if four rods are level, but that is not a negative to me at all. In just a glance I can as quickly see if all four gauges are about the same, then a closer look at the actual vacuum reading on each gauge confirms if they are absolutely identical. I am only speculating on those things, simply because I have personally used all of the different tools mentioned here, and I honestly cannot understand someone finding the Morgan Carbtune acceptable after doing the same comparison. But that is just my opinion, so if someone else DOES find it acceptable, or even the best option, well, their opinion is every bit as valid as mine. At least I tried to give y'all very specific details of why I hold those opinions so you can make up your own mind instead of just accepting my advice. In the end, I believe you will get the best and most consistent results from a tool that you fully understand and personally like. Good luck on liking whatever you choose! Goose
  10. V7Goose
    In my experience, the Motion Pro unit is simply junk. I cannot explain why they do not maintain the same calibration at different amounts of vacuum, but that is just one of the reasons I unhesitatingly label them as junk. I base that opinion on hands-on testing. Mercury is the long-time standard for measuring vacuum- it is a very heavy metal (also very dangerous) that would require no calibration beyond ensuring the level of each tube at rest is the same. It is possible to break, spill, or accidentally suck the mercury into an engine. The Morgan CANNOT be calibrated, as is stated plainly in the instructions that come with it. This is unfortunate because it DOES need this capability. I unpacked and checked a brand new unit for a friend and found one of the tubes significantly off from the others. I managed to fix it by bending the spring, but that should not have been necessary. This tool works on a different principle from the other gauges; it does not actually measure a true vacuum level, but relies on measuring the volume of air rushing by the steel rods and suspending them. Personally, I absolutely detest the Morgan carbtune in use - it sticks a lot (even when brand new or properly cleaned), must be held scrupulously vertical, and requires constant tapping to ensure the reading is correct before you accept what you see. You seem to have just dismissed the possibility of purchasing the mechanical four-gauge set. I have had mine for over 30 years, they are very rugged, and they can be easily calibrated (but virtually never need it). They used to be about $50 at JC Whitney, but their price went through the roof in the past year or so. However, with a little bit of searching on the web, you can still find them for around that price. In my personal opinion, this is the ONLY sync tool worth buying. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Although a slipping clutch before 50,000 miles is very common on this bike, it rarely starts before 30,000, so it happening at such low mileage on yours is significant. I ordinarily recommend just replacing the spring and the weenie half-plate with the PCW upgrade kit as a total fix for this problem - even with over 50,000 miles on the stock friction plates they will still measure within the original stock thickness. However, with such low mileage on your machine, it certainly suggests the cause is an improper oil or additive at some point. The unknown issue with trying to re-use the stock friction plates is if the particular oil additive that caused the problem is embedded in or bound to the surface of the friction material. The safest course of action is to simply replace all the friction plates with the spring. However, if you really want to try to save a few bucks, I'd take out the plates and scrub them well with a degreaser or gasoline and a brass brush, then re-soak them in the proper engine oil before you put the clutch back together. If the clutch starts slipping again within a few thousand miles or so, simply open it up again and replace the friction plates at that point. It won't cost you any more than just buying a second gasket. Considering how easy it is to open the clutch, this is a viable option unless you simply want to just do the job once and continue riding without worrying about it. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    When you are ready to replace the plugs, that threaded insert is specifically designed to fit the threaded tip of a spark plug. Just screw one in a bit and pull straight out. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    There are lots of places above the engine where coolant could leak, including the thermostat housing, but I really doubt it is up there. The most common place for a coolant leak on these engines is the small black rubber plug dead center in the bottom of the water jacket behind each fake fin cover. When you take the cover off, this is the only round black thing in there, so it really is easy to see. Besides being black rubber, it has a brass threaded insert that is used to screw something into and pull the plug when you are draining the coolant form each cylinder water jacket. But don't pull one of those plugs off now unless you want to drain the coolant again! The coolant does not leak from any of the holes from the cover bolts, just around that black rubber plug. When you look at the back of the cylinder fin cover, in the center near the bottom - the same place the rubber plug is in the engine, you will see a bump that is supposed to press up against the plug when the fin covers are screwed on. To stop a leak in those plugs, tape or glue a dime on that bump - this will provide enough extra pressure on the rubber plug to seal it up again. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    No, I'm not overly concerned. There is no doubt that there IS a lot of violence in some areas, particularly border cities, but there are also other areas of the country that are probably no worse than many parts of the US. In particular, southern Baja is VERY safe (I go down there for a couple of weeks every year). There is no way I would cross at El Paso/Juarez, but not all border cities are like that. I haven't heard much about what is going on in Nogales these days, but there are other options if the research indicates a more prudent choice. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    There is no doubt that there are lots of variables with any engine and ignition system that could affect spark plug performance, and I am by no means trying to pass myself off here as an expert who can describe the impact of each variable. And I don't care if anyone likes or dislikes a particular brand. My main purpose in this thread was simply to provide a balanced opinion to the several members who so quickly labeled Champion plugs as trash. Everything I have said on the subject of spark plug brands is strictly personal opinion. It is possible that Champion plugs (or NGK, for that matter) are inferior quality when compared to others, but I personally do not feel this is true. In fact, in my personal experience, I have purchased at least several hundred champion plugs over the years and have NEVER experienced a single defective plug (of which I was aware). Conversely, I doubt that I have purchased even 25 NGK plugs, and I have experienced one obvious failure, as I documented here last summer. I do not believe that proves, or even suggests that NGK plugs are worse than Champions, but it certainly does suggest that Champion plugs are NOT worse than NGk plugs! And that is why I defied anyone to prove any difference in performance with true side-by-side tests. Frankly, I'd love it if someone would prove me wrong on this (or any other subject), since that means I'll learn something and stop spreading false information. But in this case, I don't believe that is going to happen! Happy riding on whatever plugs you use! Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Yes, the mess is worse on #1 because of the lean of the bike on the side stand. The oil comes from the mist out of the crankcase breather - most gets sucked into the carbs, but some condenses out on the plenum walls and works its way to the drain in the rear. The #1 carb is the lowest point, and eventually some of that oil will seep by the plenum hose above the carb and collect dirt all around the top of the carb. Over filling the crank case will make the amount of oil mist much worse, but that mostly shows up in oil drops from the drain hoses. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    The pictures you show have nothing to do with the valve covers. That oil mess is coming from the air plenums above the carburetors, and it is the caused by the engine crankcase ventilation. This is normal on these bikes. I have covered this in several different posts recently. Goose BTW - for an '02, yours looks really good if you haven't regularly cleaned that left rear carb area. Either you don't ride the bike much, or that upper air plenum hose is sealing particularly well on the #1 carb!
  18. V7Goose
    Interesting comment, but think about it for a few . . . Small engines like lawn mowers and chain saws have absolutely NO technology to fine-tune and manage the fuel mixture and engine timing - this means that the conditions under which the spark plug must function are the absolute worst possible. So if a plug works best in those conditions, it should, in my opinion, be able to work just as well in a modern engine with fuel and ignition management systems! Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I can't say why Yamahaha says to change the plugs every 8,000 miles, as that seems way too often for me, too. My personal preference is to use standard plugs and change them somewhere between 16,000 and 25,000 miles (I do not think the exact interval is important). If you use platinum or iridium plugs, you should be able to get a minimum of 50,000 between changes, and possibly up to 100,000. The extended change interval is the ONLY benefit from those expensive plugs. I personally find changing the plugs very simple, and I prefer to change them on a regular basis so I can observe the way the engine is running; that is why I do not waste money on special plugs. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    This thread died pretty quick - any more thinking on this trip? Times moving on. I'd really be interesting in joining if it's going to come off! Goose
  21. V7Goose
    In my personal opinion, any standard resistor plug in the same heat range as the stock plug will be 100% "or more" perfect and identical. Don't waste money on any "special" plugs like iridiums, platinum, split-fire or such. As for brand, I don't think there is a real difference. Although I have only used NGKs in my RSV, I wouldn't hesitate to switch. Personally I love Champion plugs - have used them for 40 years now in every other bike, truck, car and small motor I have ever owned. Not exclusively, but I'm sure I have bought more Champion plugs than any other brand. For anyone who hates or loves a particular brand of plug, I absolutely defy them to show any difference in how they perform in a true side-by-side test! Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Alright all - I didn't see much interest in this when I first posted it, but the holidays are past now and we are going to be doing some work on bikes this Saturday (tomorrow, around noon), but mostly next Saturday 1/23. If you are interested you are welcome to come by too. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    The slight delay in catching hold after initially hitting the set button is pretty normal - it is caused by the time it takes the electric vacuum pump in the lower right cowling to energize the vacuum motor in the lower left cowling and take up any slack in the throttle activating cable between the vacuum motor and the cable junction box under the tank. Hitting the accel button after the set button really does nothing except take up that normal delay time so you don't notice it. If you take your hand off too quickly and the cables are too loose or do not slide easily, it is possible for the bike to loose more than 5 MPH, and that cancels the cruise setting. The most important aspect of minimizing the delay is to make sure all the cables are adjusted correctly and not gummed up. I would start by opening the cable junction box (be careful to not loose the spring in there and look close at how all the cables are wound before you take it apart), removing the cables there and ensuring that they slide without dragging. Using your fingers to gently pull on the cables or cable sheath to detect any drag is the only real way to be sure how smooth they slide. Then when you put it back together, make sure all the cables are properly adjusted. Also note that the center spool in the junction box is keyed on the back to engage with the spool from the cruse cable - it is easy to put this spool on with the activating bar or 'key' on the wrong side of the keys in the back spool, and then your cruise will not work at all, so pay attention to that! Going from memory here (so do not shoot if I am wrong), I believe the three cables going out from the junction box (one to the cruise vacuum motor and two to the carbs) need to be adjusted with zero play. The only slack that should be in any of the throttle cables is adjusted at the grip. I don't remember the actual mm measurement for the correct slack, but is is only enough so that you can just detect a little free play in the grip. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I suspected as much - just wanted to know for sure. I am too cheap to pay for map updates unless there is something I really know I absolutely MUST have - and that just ain't the case for a casual-use GPS. I have had my XOG GPS for close to two years and I'm not about to pay them to update those maps. Heck, I have never updated the maps in my 2000 Jaguar XJ8 built-in GPS, and that's 10 years old now. Even though it gets a bit confused now and then around major new construction, it is not really an issue - certainly not worth wasting the money on a map update (at least to me). If those companies would charge a REASONABLE fee for the updated maps, I'd buy them - but $30 - $70 is not even close in my book. The updates already exist, and it doesn't cost them a cent to support their customers who have already bought their product by allowing a download, so those high fees are just stealing to me. I'd probably pay $10, maybe $15 tops, but anything higher and I'm just tickled to not give them any business at all!
  25. V7Goose
    Just curious, do the Garmin map updates cost money, or are they provided to owners for free? Goose
×
×
  • Create New...