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Globewalker

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Everything posted by Globewalker

  1. And note.. The level of annoyance of the Yamaha whine is directly proportional to the quality of your hearing in that frequency range I have a certain level of it but not sure just how bad it really is due to the unofficial law of physics stated above.
  2. Welcome Yea nice bike.. same one I have. Looks like you got aftermarket back rest (Utopian maybe) also and the front fender rail and ornament/light are add-ons as well Yes my feet get hot also.. in SE Texas.. Ride with boots anyhow or they will really burn and added Kuryaken Longhorn Foot pegs to get them out in the wind. I have the wind deflectors also, but as Mike said more noticeable in winter time than summer. One of the first mods you might want to do is change the stock horn on the right side to a Stebel or Wolo air horn. search the sight.. many threads about it. Enjoy -Keith
  3. Prayers are with him. I'm nearby also so let me know if we can help in anyway
  4. Congrats Mark and tell us about Sturgis when you return (what you can reveal anyhow)
  5. Thanks.. I like this idea.. Same problem here. I can't really reach horn button while pulling in the clutch lever..if I needed to
  6. I have this small 6 can one from WallyWorld http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-6-Can-Cooler-with-Removable-Hardliner-Blue/16523743 it fits easy enough and is ok for a lite load Has a hardliner so wont leak .. unless ice melts and splashes out.. 7" depth is about all you have to get it in past the lock .. so longer and taller would work but not deeper
  7. sounds like uhh fun Check out this forum for any help and maybe someone there has an engine.. http://www.hondashadow.net/ I have a Shadow 750 and have gleaned some good advice from there
  8. I need a GPS and that is cheap but.. Not real fond of 1dealAday... not much of a return policy (if u can even find it) and have gotten broken items from them.. now WOOT rocks.. (especially wine.woot)
  9. Think I saw a First Gen Trike today... not sure .. is this what they look like? j/k Resourceful for sure..Use what you have available I suppose..
  10. Hey Mark I am posting your pic for you with the Harley Tour Pak. Yah it looks good man. I need to do the Photobucket thing also.. should be the easiest, then you just post a link to it.. Keith
  11. This is a good document explaining it that you found.. I work in the credit card related industry and while it is unknown to many people, Pre-Auths are common. Hotel Industry does it also for an inflated amount to cover any phone calls, snacks, movies, damage.. etc.. The Pre-Auth will typically get negated by an Auth-Reversal process when the merchant settles their transactions. The problem is, some merchants may do settlements real time, but more commonly it is a nightly batch process, so your open-to-buy limit is tied up until then (and then processors and issuing banks could take time to complete that workflow). And not all issuing banks can accomplish the Auth reversal so then the Pre-Auth amount will consume your credit limit until it naturally expires (typically 7 days for VISA, ~30 days for others). You are not actually getting charged these amounts but it does impact your credit limit and for debit cards can maybe cause an overdraft situation. I don't do debit cards - don't trust anyone having direct access into my bank account. My credit card has a very high credit limit so have not felt any impact from the Pre-Auths. Alerting your bank ahead of time when traveling is good advice.. I don't always remember to do that.
  12. 650-08783 is the model for Rstd I got mine from Phats last year.. It was backordered for awhile back then
  13. This thread is likely what you are looking for.. pretty good how to on the whole changeout http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37770 I did replace my cables though when I did it as I did not want to route them in front.. but it apparently does work that way.. correction: I only replaced the front Brake lines with Galfer lines from Cycle Brakes model FK003D463-3+3 $149 The other cables and wires had slack to use. Disclaimer.. this is for RSTD though.. sorry Just noticed you have RSV
  14. Actually the dbl quotes does appear to work.. It's just fuel filter gets a lot of hits Try searching on "I want posts containing" and see what you get
  15. Good to hear... I've been thinking about adding that...
  16. Yea.. from everything I hear.. risers will not work on the RSTD because of the speedometer as you indicate. I believe MikeG squeezed out a 1/2" to 3/4" by pushing his up in the triple tree (w/ some mod of a washer?).. not sure if that is enough for you.. Dont think it is enough for me... I need to get back onto this myself..
  17. True that Phoneman I believe the Vstar1300 crowd also seeks out RSTD bars for more pullback so there is some demand out there I suppose
  18. just don't use Seal-All adhesive http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61241 hmmm.. although its main ingredient is Methyl Ethyl Ketone... must be the acetone that got me... Methyl Ethyl Ketone 30-60 % Acetone 10-30 %
  19. I have the Wolo Bad boy all Chrome horn mounted on the right side for long time now, heat from pipes not a problem. Carbon One bracket is made to fit, but you will need a spacer between it and the horn. (Stebel comes w/ one but Wolo doesnt) see.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59185 and other threads Oh and a relay is highly recommended. I mounted mine behind the cover near the horn and routed the original horn wires straight to the relay.
  20. Mike, Are you saying even using the Barons front lowering kit (rather than the Venture method of pushing them up in the triple tree) that the RSTD is still limited to 1/2"? I do not understand the mechanics of how Baron's spacers can lower the front.. I am interested in at least lowering the front.. Thanks, Keith
  21. Thanks for the well wishes.. The lung is healed.. will just take a few more weeks for the ribs to heal. I have found out just how much house work she has been doing w/o me all this time.. hope she heals faster
  22. Hate to hear it.. Hope all heals well. Stay strong.
  23. Oh my, I wish you both a full recovery. My wife (also Cindy) is healing from only 2 broken ribs and punctured lung so I know that can be painful and take a while to heal. Hope y'all have someone nearby to help out when you get home.
  24. I also have an odd rattle / clanging noise occasionally when I first take off at low speeds.. but I couldn't hear it or anything odd in your audio clips. Mine is inconsistent that I cant duplicate it to record it. I can't tell where its coming from because I only hear from one ear so sense of direction is affected.
  25. Layed the bike down recently on Lt side in gravel and not much cosmetic damage, but this plastic screw mount TAB broke off inside the front cowling. So I plastic soldered it back on.... Used heavy soldering iron and cut strips of some black plastic I found laying around to ‘plastic solder’ the mount back together (w/ tywrap support) and to solder it back in place on the cowling. Worked good. All looked great, then I had the wonderful idea of adding some contact adhesive/sealer, that I had, to help reinforce it. FAIL!!!! It seems that adhesive has a negative reaction to the plastic that the front cowling is made of and caused a soft spot/wrinkle all the way through the front. Tube didn’t say what is was good to use on or not… so tried it. Web site says good on MOST plastics.. ugghh Depressing because the plastic welding seemed to do pretty good.. Oh well, Live and Learn.. *** Dont use SealAll on plastic w/o testing it first. (Its probably real good for its true purpose..) www.seal-all.com Tried to remove as much of the adhesive as possible but afraid I will do more harm now.. Hope it stabilizes and hardens back up… May have to add some chrome to cover it OF COURSE now I see the posts about Plastex for broken Tabs on RSV fairings... that prob would have worked just fine..
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