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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Carb sync, and it will be running like the , as mentioned watch. You will notice the difference, probably better then new. !!!
  2. GeorgeS
    Did you stick the OHM meter leads into each side of the 5 wire plug, (( with the plug connected )) and measure the Actuall resistance thru the Plug. ?? If you have an ohm meter, do this before you start ripping and tearing anything else. The signals comeing thru this plug are VERY LOW VOLTAGE, ANY EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE HERE CAN BE BAD. You want to make sure you have "ZERO OHMS OF RESISTANCE " Thru these 5 pins. Don't assume anything here. Get an OHM meter. ONE more possibility, Up behind the TACH, there is a plug with 4 wires in and out. Going to the TACH. I doubt this, is happening, but there might be a problem INSIDE of the TACH itself, (( It has a small electronic circuit board in it , might have an internal short circuit )) drawing down the Signal, thus the coil not fireing. This is way out in left field, but if it were so, Then just by disconnecting this plug, then the Coil should start fireing Normally.
  3. GeorgeS
    I got you beat by 20 years. And the Cooking gets better every year !!!
  4. GeorgeS
    Since I put in the Barnett Clutch, ( at 28K , approx ) I have used Mobil I 15W-50W. No slippage problems. I use it cause I can go longer between changes, less work, and cost less in the long run. Been useing it for almost 40K now, and no problems. I also use it in my Hyabusa, and both cars. Lots less work, and old oil to get rid of. Anyway, that my take on it. The argument continues ---------- Remember, all Jet Engines use synthetic Oil !!
  5. GeorgeS
    Why is it that the 2nd Gens seem to have this problem, but not the first gens ??? Rear ends on them seem to be the same parts. Any comments on this?? I had some clicking on my 89 around 20K, but greese, and retorqueing all the bolts, seem to fix it. No problems since then.
  6. GeorgeS
    Double check in bottom of Resovoiur, there are two small holes. Double check that these are free. Also you might remove the Line at top and and at the Slave cylinder, blow out with air to make sure its not plugged. I made the mistake of installing one of the rubber seals in the master " backwords " had to take apart and start over. But its was still a battle to get it working.
  7. GeorgeS
    You are correct here, if no signal from the Pick ups and the #2 cylinder is not being fired from the TCI, you would have not Tack signal. Find the 5 wire "White " plug located, on left side just behind your left knee as you sit on the bike. Open and Clean this plug, Tug easy on all the wires, make sure they are still crimped into the pins, and plugs both sides of plug. clean ALL plugs involved with CRC 2-26 Electrical contact cleaner.
  8. GeorgeS
    Go to Service Manual on this web site: See, page 7-1. Signal to one cylinder and ( looks like #2 Cyl ) the Tack comes from the TCI output of #2 cyl. The ( Gy ) gray wire out from the TCI 8 pin plug goes to the Coil Primary, and taps off the Tach. That the signal. Possible, trouble, 1. the TCI output is bad. 2. the Gy wire from the TCI to the ( splice) where the wire is spliced into these Three Items. The Coil primary, The Tach, and the Fuel Pump control Relay. Note: you will probably have to Pull the Air Filter Box to get access to the 8 pin plug on the TCI, to Take Continuity Checks. 3, inside the TCI there Might be a Bad Solder Joint where this pin from the 8 pin plug is Soldered to the Circuit board. Things to check. 1. do Continuity check from Gy wire at the Tack, going to the pin with the Gy wire on the 8 pin plug of the TCI. 2. pull out the TCI, open cover, check solder conntct from that wire to the plug, Resolder the connection with 10 to 15 Watt Pen Soldering iron. 3. find the two wire pull apart plug going to Coil primary , open this plug and clean it. 4. When plug is OFF Coil Primary, Check the Resistance " Thru" the primary winding, it should be about 3 to 5 ohms. 5. Check to see if the Primary winding Is shorted to Ground Inside of the Coil. You might have a Bad Coil, which is shorting out the Signal from the TCI. However, haveing said all this, I would say the most likley cause, is the Wire from the 8 pin plug ( the Gy wire) going to the " Splice " as shown on page 7-1. If you find no bad connections, then I guess you would have to assume the TCI is bad. You most likly have an open wire ( ie. no continuity ) OR, a Bad output signal from the TCI. ( most likely just bad solder joint to the circuit boare ) This should get you started. Also, see page 8-41 Master Schematic in the Service Manual, for more detailed wireing then is shown on page 7-1.
  9. GeorgeS
    They do have a few common problems. Noises in the Rear Drive assembly's, some have never had the problem, others have had lots of problem's here. Sombody will chime in on this item. Many folks install a one size narrower front tire, to improve low speed steering in parking lots. There have been clutch problems, also, check with those that have experienced this. The 1st Gen bikes have clutch problems also, but not hard to fix.
  10. GeorgeS
    OK, now go straight to the Garage, and FIX Something !!!!!
  11. GeorgeS
    At the Fwd End of the Drive shaft houseing, on the large Rubber Boot covering the U-Joint. There is a Drain hole on the bottom of the boot. Check carefully, for signs of SAE-90 Leakage. IF you find this, then consider that the Oil Seal, at the Front end of the Pumpkin, where the rear of drive shaft mounts, might be leaking. IF So, only fix is to replace the Oil Seal. Only place to get it is order from Yamaha, check the IPC to identify this part. Oil from pumking leaks into the drive shaft houseing, and drips out the fwd drain hole. This is not a real common problem, but it happened to my 89. I had this problem on my 89 around 40K. When reassembling the Axel, rotate it by hand, and find the point of least resistance, try to keep axel in this position as you torque the large nut. Retorque the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin, in place, and the Axel nut in 4 steps, and tap tap on the entire assembly with plastic mallet to relieve Stress, as you torque up the nuts. As the other article says, be SURE, to remove the 3 cross bolts under the rear Shock assembly, and clean, and hand greese these 3 bolts. YOu might find that they are worn and need to be replaced. Also, consider installing Zerk Fittings, so in future its quick and easy to greese them. Also, the two short bolts at pivot points where shock assembly connects to the swing arm on each side. Remove these, and hand greese them. Also, consider, removeing the Nuts on each side, at the Swing Arm Pivot point large bearings, and greese the bearings. This has probably never been done on your bike. You will need to buy an Metric Socket, and you will need a large Torque wrench to re install the nuts. I think its about 90 ft. lbs to re-install. Sorry but this will cost a few bucks, if you don't have the tools. I put a Needle on my greese gun to shoot greese into these bearings. This needle will also allow you to shoot greese into your wheel bearings. At the top of the rear shock, there is one large bolt, you might try to get some penetrating lubricant into this pivot point, not real important, but can't hurt anything. Note: With everything remove, its a good time to ReBleed your Rear, and left Fwd brake system, replace all the fluid, Why?? EASY ACCESS,now with the bags removed !!!
  12. GeorgeS
    Sounds like that section of wire, is simply shorted to ground someplace. Sharp corner or something like that cut into the wire, putting a ground to the wire.
  13. GeorgeS

    Oil

    GeorgeS replied to duke's topic in General Tech Talk

    Wal Mart, carries it. Also , Costco carries it. Every auto parts store in the Seattle area carries it. ????
  14. GeorgeS
    Not hard to do, clutch bleed port top, just aft of the Stator Cover. However if you have to change the Slave,cylinder, that gets into about a 2 to 4 hour job, in a Warm garage. They can be rebuild with a kit, for $15, but its better to replace with new cylinder, about $35. Just as much work either way. If you have any problem with the Clutch system, talk to " Condor "
  15. GeorgeS
    I would call every dealer in town, also might be an independant bike parts place. You should be able to find a better price then that for labor. Check the local yellow pages. Especially if you can pull the wheels yourself, and take them in. Also remember, the Elite III series, will most likley go almost twice the miles as the Dunlop D-404, ( the lowest price Dunlops ) . So, you effectivly 1/2 the labor cost.
  16. GeorgeS
    After, 15 years of rideing the the old 89, I have realized something about this bike. It has really grown on me, as they say. Sort of a love hate relationship, as they say. I might buy a new one, but this one will probably still be sitting in my garage when they haul me off, to whereever that happens to be. I have a ball driveing the Busa, but for some reason I have just as much fun on the twistie's with the 89. Whatever, maby couple of years I will be looking for a good used 2nd gen, with all the Mods, and upgrades ( just like on the 1st gen's)
  17. GeorgeS
    Thats why I left Minnesota, now I live in the Rain in Seattle, Now if I could just get the Wife to move back to Calif, or Arizona, or Anyplace where the Sun shines !! Oh well, its not frezzing here
  18. GeorgeS
    Thanks for the Photo's, looks like almost 1/2 inch thick caseing, and 5 ply's of cord. I am estimateing that the visable side tread in the photo, seems to be 1/4 inch. So, thats about same as the Dunlop " Elite II " Rear that I cut open. That makes me feel better about the Avon, Rear. The Front is the one I am concerned about here. My front, at 8K, and virtually NO measurable wear. The stone went thru the " Full " Tread width, and the caseing. Anybody have a " Front " to cut open ?? I will cross section mine when I get it off. Thanks for the photo's
  19. GeorgeS
    The piece of Stone that I pulled out, with needle nose, was NO thicker the the Tread Thickness, if even that. maby it had a shard that had broken before I pulled it out and had gone thru. However, this little stone, did not seem any different from the Average little stone on your Average Gravel Road !!! Thats whats got me so upset over this. Also, I had to really force the plugger tool to get it to go thru the caseing to put the plug in. So the hole was extremely small. Also, I will be putting " Ride ON " into every new tire installation from now on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyway, we live and learn, and I am aware of the risks in rideing.
  20. GeorgeS
    I watched him do it, on a bike at Ft. Collins last year
  21. GeorgeS
    No way to tell, I should have kept it. However at the time I pulled it out, do to the size it never occured to me to even consider that it might have gone beyond the Tread, Much less punctured the caseing. I drove on gravel roads for many years, never saw anything like this. I was just looking at the Plug, and it seems to be bulging around the 1/4 dia. plug. So I guess I will be getting a new tire. I will cross section the tire after removal, I want to know how thick the caseing is on these Avon's. The tread wear, is so little where the stone went thru, its not possible to even measure it. Looks like I will be going back to Dunlop, "Elite III " Series, unless I find something better.
  22. GeorgeS
    OK, I put on New Avon's last year about April. And put in a can of " Ride ON " in both front and rear. 8000 miles on them now. Beginning of my SAD story: Around last Nov. 30th, I parked in garage, and noticed a Stone about 3/16 wide stuck in Front Avon, near Center line. This was pure chance, that I noticed it. I pulled the stone out with needle nose, it was about 3/16 wide, and near 1/4 in deep. It was embedded in the Thickest part of the Tread. ( very little wear on the front with only 8K on it. ) Stone was shaped sort of like a Pyramid, and had 3 sharp points. I checked the Pressure, was normal, so at the time I forgot about it. Bike sat in garage unused for about 2 months, except for a 20 mile ride around 3 Jan. 08. Two weeks ago, I go for a ride, and about a block from the house I realized that something was wrong, so came back. Found only 18lb. of air in front. ????? Hmmmm I aired it up, went for a ride, all seemed OK. Yesterday I checked press, it had gone down to 28LB from 45 in two weeks. Hmmmm. ???? Ok time for the Soap Suds leak detector. Then I remembered the little pyramide shaped sharp stone. ??? NO WAY, that little stone was not big enough to go thru the Tread, and the Caseing, Right ?? Put suds, on the wound from the Stone, And all around both sides of the rim Bead. Waited, over 30 min. and WA LA !! The bubble was growing, ever so slowly. Right where the stone came out. Conclusion!! 1. Ride On Works !!! 2. My " Stop + Go Tire Plugger works Great " 3. That little Stone, Should Not Have Punctured the tire, it was not that big. I base this statement on 50 years of buying and installing, and repairing Motorcycle tires !!! ( I'm not a green horn at this.) 4. I need to find out, the answer to this question !! ( How thick is the caseing of an AVON Venom Front tire, after All the Tread is worn off ????????? ) Can anybody answer this for me ?? Does anybody have a worn out Avon Venom Front tire, that they could cut a Cross Section out of, and take some close ups, and post here ??? Any, help and comments are much appriciated. Anyway, I doubt I will be buying another Avon Front Tire. Yes the handleing , and the ride , is great, I agree with that. But being punctured by that little stone, is NOT ACCEPTABLE IN MY BOOK !! I know, this will start a fire storm, but hey, its Winter, and we need something to discuss other then Snow, and the Oil shortage, and now I hear, we have a " Wheat ' Shortage, caused by the farmers all switching to Corn to make " Fake Gasoline "
  23. GeorgeS
    Try pumping fluid in from the Slave cylinder, up to the master. You can use a rubber syringe if you don't have a MityVac. Also, double check the master resoviour, there are two small holes, one is easy to see, the second almost impossible. Find that, and make sure its free. Just keep working at it, eventually it will go. Unless you need to rebuild your Master Cylinder, and replace the Slave cylinder. ???
  24. GeorgeS
    If a 1st Gen has never had them changed, you need a new set!!! Just think of it as " Sales Tax " cost of doing the business of rideing !! Forget the " Liquid Tape " !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  25. GeorgeS
    Which Retail store, if I might ask? Thanks
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