
GeorgeS
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Everything posted by GeorgeS
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Well, take a peek up in the Attic, See whats actually there for Insulation: If any way to add more, thats what I would do , as a first option.
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Well if you are planning on staying there a long time, I guess adding more, or better Insulation might be a viable option. Maby improved Windows, another option. Also, check into the Wood Pellet burning stoves as an Add On heat source. I used to live in Minn. and I am a firm believer in More, More Insulation, as a first line of defence. If there is any way to add more insulation, thats the way to go.
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To all those new to the Odyessy battery, be sure to read the " Charging Instructions". As the proceedure is somewhat different then with a lead Acid Battery. Also different, is that you use voltage readings, ( 12.4 to 12.7 ) to determine the " state " of charge. I have noted, that after 4 to 6 hours of charging at 4 amp rate, then giveing the battery couple hours to settle in, I will see, 12.8 to 12.9 volts, with digital volt meter.
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Try draining the tank and the carb bowls, Put some HEET in it first in case you have water in gas. Start over with new gas, and some Sea - Foam, Try to get some road time with the Sea Foam.
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Check your circuit from the " Ing Fuse" thru the " On- Off " Switch, then thru the " Run - Stop Switch " . For Excessive Resistance, thru the switch contacts. There, are also a couple of pull apart plugs in this circuit, that might be corroded. Also check your 40 Amp Main fuse holder. ( Two #1 Phillips screws in there that might be loose ) One fellow found as much as 23 Ohms of excessive resistance in this circuit on an 84. All this resistance will drop the voltage to the Ing coil Primary windings. Try CRC 2-26 contact cleaner. Also, take a close look at the Ing Fuse, holder contacts. They are known to go bad.
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I have spent my entire life, since about 16 years old, working with Electro -Magnetic, radiation devices. Working on Aircraft loaded with transmitting stuff, 8 hours a day on airports, with thousands of transmitters in the vicinity. Ham radio in my House, the list goes on and on. I'm 65, and I still feel pretty good. AND, the Frequency of a Harley vibration does not fall into the Electro Magnetic Frequency spectrum! The guy is an IDIOT !!! How about rideing a Horse ?? Same principle
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Front-end-wobble under hard braking
GeorgeS replied to Gearhead's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Have you Re-Torqued the Engine Mount Bolts? A long shot, but worth checking. -
On 1st Gen, the PC680 is Smaller then the battery box. Maby the other brand, is a Closer Fit, and is actually a larger battery. ?? Just a thought. Spec Sheet: Carefully compare the Spec's on the Odyessy main Web site. To whatever other brand AGM you are considering. Cables: If you do not Replace the Cables, the least I would do, is Resolder the End connectors on your Old Cables. Heat ends with a Propane Torch, and dip Hot into Soldering Rosin Paste. Then Resolder, useing Rosin Core Solder. ( Do not use Acid Core solder , or paste ) Be sure to clean the Neg. cable where it connects to the FWD RT, Corner of the Engine. This Bolt will have corroded threads, if you have never pulle it out. I found the Stud on my + Cable at the Starter to NOT BE Soldered, and it was badly Corroded. ( The Stud that is, where crimped to the cable) However I did install New Cables. ( If I was doing it again, I would just Resolder the Studs on the old ones ) If you bike is over 50K, I would highly Reccomend Replaceing your Starter Solinoid! The Internal Contacts, do get Carboned, and burned. No way to fix this, except replaceing the Solinoid. I have the Odyessy batteries on Two bikes now, and very happy with them. My 89 starts, with just a " Touch " of the button. Ever since installing the Odyessy.
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I stumbled on an old issue the other day. Was reading it last nite. On page 73 they have article on this subject. ((( E-10 Fuel )) And a run down on problems caused by ethenol, in mostly bikes with Carbs. They say Some Carbs are affected by the stuff. Others are not. In some cases, the Floats are damaged, and the float needle valves. And some Gaskets , and Crud, in the Bowls. AS a rule of thumb, older bikes will be more adversly affected, then newer bikes. The article stated " bluntly " that E-10 will cause Tank Corrosion, and various other parts of the fuel system could be affected. The guy said to keep an Eagle Eye on the Bottom of your fuel tank. They also stated, ( and first time I have heard of this ) that a Fuel Stablizer product such as used for long term storage, could be used regularly as a fuel additive. Claiming this would help solve some of the problems caused by E-10 fuel. If you are haveing problems, with the stuff, it was reccomended that you run the engine at least once a week, with the stabilizer in the fuel. Be sure to run it after adding the stuff, to be sure its in the Carbs. OR--- Turn pet cock Off and run the Carbs DRY. Idea is you don't want E-10 sitting in your Carbs dureing long term storage. Anyway, I just found this yesterday, for what its worth. I always run my engine at least once a month thru the winter. A product called " Maxima's Fuel Stabilizer " was mentioned. I have no idea if its any good. See web site www.maximausa.com ???
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I don't think the V-Max Frame, ( old style tubular ) and suspension system was Up to handling the Horse Power. Maby, just good enough, however if you start adding more HP, the the Frame ( and suspension system ) would not be up to the task. Far from it.
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How much stopping power?
GeorgeS replied to mark reed's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Only thing I can add to all this is " Practice makes Prefect " And, Don't tail gate ! In heavy traffic try to stay close to your Planned escape route. And, don't Stop at any " Biker Bars " !!!- 35 replies
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Now it is the Carb!
GeorgeS replied to kycaveman's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Logicaly they should be OK. However I have read a few folks say that upon checking them, they were Not all set the same. Floats that is. This also goes for the Idle mix adjust screws. Mine Idle mix screws were NOT all set the same. Resetting them to 2 1/8 turns, and resync made improvement. -
Now it is the Carb!
GeorgeS replied to kycaveman's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Thats about right! Actually list is much higher. I paid $85 each 2 years ago. You might find them a few bucks cheaper. However ?? Be sure to replace the Very Small O-ring at botttom of each Carb cover. I missed one on reassembly, caused some problems. Check out your Idle mix adjust needle valves also. I reccoment useing liquid wrench on them of similiar product. Be Very Carefull of the Fine Threats here. I would be interested to know, how your Float settings were found to be. All the same ? or not all at same fuel level. I have to check mine soon. -
Charge it once a month, no matter what anybody tells you !!! Check the water level once a month. If its NOT a Sealed battery, keep the water level correct. ONLY ADD DISTILLED WATER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Steal the Distilled water, that your wife keeps in the laundry room for her Steam Iron, IT WORKS GREAT, AND DON'T COST ANYTHING. At local auto parts, you can order a small battery Hydrometer for motorcycle batteries, ( About $3.00) for checking the specific gravity of the fluid. ( It doubles for adding distilled water when necessary ) Don't over charge, Only set your charger, to 2 amps, 2 to 4 hours once a month should do it. If completly dead battery, would take abouth 8 hours at 2 amp rate. Do Not charge a motorcycle battery at MORE then a 2 AMP Rate. (Never, ever ) A Trickle charger, is for keeping a fully charged battery at full charge, it will not bring a very low state battery up to full charge.
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Must be that global warming, has kicked in with a vengence -----
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If your charging system is functioning Correctly, you should have no problem. Except if All of your rides are short, then I would suggest useing the charger about once a month. A good Quick check of your charging system, is Read the Voltage on the + Stud of the battery, with engine running at about 2000 RPM. You should see at least 13.5 Volts on a good Digital Meter. ( not the instrument panel meter ) If in the low 13 range, or high 12 volt range, I would do some more serious checking of the Alternater Output. Which is, 3 phase AC, check the AC voltage on Each leg, at the large white Plug on left side of bike, ( has 3 , White, #14 wires going thru it) Open the plug, clean the pins with contact cleaner, make sure there is no sign of carbon build up in the pull apart plugs. Reconnect plug, stick meter probes in end of plug, read voltage to ground on each of the 3 wires. You should see 6 to 14 volts AC. Each leg should be almost the same. ( AC, NOT DC !! ) If one leg is substantialy lower then the other two, you may need a new Stator Assembly.
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How much stopping power?
GeorgeS replied to mark reed's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have done some very heavy brakeing with my 89, never had the rear wheel lock up.- 35 replies
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Rear wheel noise
GeorgeS replied to pappyam's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
After cleaning, and greesing, as you reassemble every thing, loosen the 4 nuts that hold the pumpkin in place. Then as you reassemble the Axel, add torque to the 4 small bolts, and the Axel Nut in 4 steps. Between each torque application to the nuts, Tap Tap everything with a plastic mallet, to relieve Stress. Also, hand rotate the axel before adding torque to nut, see if you can find a postion of least resistance. Try to keep the Axel in that position as you torque it to 90 ft. lbs. When you have about 1/2 the torque applied, run the engine, let it spin the wheel, as you tap with the mallet. Just doing this proceedure stopped mine from clicking. this was around 18K on the bike. Be sure to pull out the drive shaft , and greese the front Spline, if you have never done that job. It has to be done by hand, no other way to lube that spline.- 15 replies
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I have many personnal friends working at Boeing, Everett, Wa. Word is they need help on the Assembly line there. If you have an A+P mechanic licence, or military aircraft maintenance experience, metal fab, hydralics, etc. If you are experienced then you know what I mean. Word is they have over 500 orders for new aircraft, and they are running behind. Main office in now in Chicago, or contact employment office, Everett, Wa. If you are interested, apply thru the Boeing main employment office. Thats the only way. They are also just ramping up a new 777, Freighter program. 787's are just starting to be built. This IS Good Information !!! If you know anybody, who has experience in this type of work, and needs a job, pass this on. Thank's all, hope this info can help sombody.
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I reccomend getting a lot of miles under your belt without a passenger on board. Parking lots, city driveing, etc etc. Learn the bike before you take a passenger with you.
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I went into Crater Lake Park this last summer, just told them I was old enough, showed driver licence as proof, paid the normal Entrance fee, and they gave me the life time pass. Next time you pull up to a park entrance gate, just ask. They don't offer it, unless you ask.