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wes0778

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Everything posted by wes0778

  1. wes0778
    While you have it apart, I would suggest that you put in a relay for the passing lights, if there is not one already. Doing so will get that load off the ignition switch AND will give you a separate point of failure, that will not take out the head light, leaving you in the dark.
  2. wes0778

    Tires

    wes0778 replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Local independent shop here; $30.00 mounting if you buy the tire from him, $45.00 if you bring your own tire. His prices on the tires are $50.00 - $70.00 higher than you can buy online.
  3. wes0778
    It is my understanding that it cannot be done on the TD, 'cause the speedometer is in the way. I'm sure some more knowledgeable folks will chime in...
  4. wes0778
    Hey, I think I've seen that bike!!! :stickpoke: Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
  5. wes0778
    I have a 32 LED board in both my RSTC and the RSV. So far no problems at all with either. I did however buy mine from Biker Highway. The reason being THEY mentioned that their board had 3 LEDs for a tag light. Custom Dynamics did not mention the tag lights, although I think some members say that the C/D board does have them. I did order the LED running/brake light from C/D. http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_nonsequential_led_video.htm
  6. wes0778
    Here's my '98 RSTC. I was under the impression it was a 67hp engine. Not a mouse motor by any means. It'll give the Hardleys fits
  7. wes0778
    3rd gear, well at 96mph, maybe she was scared!!! :stickpoke:
  8. wes0778
    That's the first bike I bought too, 'cept mine was a '64 and black. I stripped it down and painted it candy apple blue. It was a repo that I bought it from my boss (I was working at the Greenwood Honda Shop). You'd be amazed at how that little engine would run bored .125", head ported and relieved, and with a 305 dream carb. makes a real street sleeper!!!
  9. wes0778
    The Dunlop 404s were the only WWW I could find. IMHO the 404s are an adequate tire for the Royal Stars. Most folks say they are a short mileage tire. I have about 3000 miles on the rear one of '98 RSTC and while I have not measured it, there IS noticeable wear on it. Again I have not measured the front tire (about 2000 miles on it) but no noticeable wear on it. Since my RSTC is a new (to me) ride, I don't have anything to compare handling. So, I can only say, to me, it handles fine. Others say the EIIs, EIIIs or Avons handle better.
  10. wes0778
    That looks like what I bought for mine...
  11. wes0778
    OOPS!!!
  12. wes0778
    If you want a quick fix to get them in the "Ball Park", run down to Harbor Freight and pick up two of their $12.00 vacuum gauges. Hook them up on the two right carbs, sync them (screw on right side), move the gauges to the left side, sync them (the screw that takes the LONG screwdriver) then move the gauge from the left rear to the right rear and sync them (Screw on the left side). It won't get you as exact as the Carb Tune will, but will be close. As a side note, you will either have idle the engine up a good bit to stop the "stop to stop" needle oscillation, or you can pinch the rubber tubing, to create the dampening.
  13. wes0778
    Cannot speak from personal experience, but others on the site have expressed concerns about using Metzlers on these heavy bikes.
  14. wes0778
    The Cliff Notes version is: 1. Split the fairing 2. Take off the handlebars 3. Disconnect the inner fairing 4. Take the retainer nut off the triple tree 5. Loosen the clamp bolts and remove the top part of the triple tree 6. Remove the fork covers 7. Loosen the bottom fork clamp bolts 8. Make a mark on the fork tube the distance you want to lower the front (Max 1") 9. Push the tubes up to the mark 10. Re-assemble in reverse order. With the excellent folks that did mine, it takes about 3 hours. Ride and enjoy!!!
  15. wes0778
    Not at all, take an 8mm wrench, remove the old ones (just like taking a bolt out) and screw in the new ones. I guess because of the thread sealant on the speedbleeders they are tight going back in. You will lose some fluid as the old ones are removed, so I just used a rag to soak it up until I got the S/Bs inplace. Snug them down hook up the tubing and catch bag back them off maybe 1/4 turn and pump away. Pump the reservoirs almost dry and then clean out any "crud" built up in the bottom of the reservoirs. Refill with clean fluid and pump the lever/pedal until you get clean fluid coming out into the tubing. One word of caution keep a rag over the open clutch and front brake reservoirs as you pump the lever. If you don't the little geyser will get brake fluid on all the places you don't want it on. Also (don't ask) don't be looking directly into the open reservoirs, from above them, when you pump the lever. That is unless you are wearing a face mask. Getting the rear brake reservoir cap off/on will be the most time consuming part of this adventure.
  16. wes0778
    Put them on the RSV last weekend. I like them. Be sure to order the bag and the tubing!!! That takes MOST of the mess outa changing fluids. Now just gotta order a set for the RSTC...
  17. wes0778
    Being inseam challenged myself, I lowered the front end. Nothing needed other than help from Gunboat's hammer. :crackup: I think you could do both, to lower the entire bike, but if you do, from what I've heard you will need to shorten the kickstand. Otherwise you will have to be REALLY careful where you park it. Walter
  18. wes0778
    Guess Not, HUH??? :crying:
  19. wes0778
    Just a thought, if your seat is the black factory standard seat and will fit my '99 RSV, how 'bout I ship my seat for you straight to Day Long and you ship your seat to me? Only rub I need a seat for a ride this Saturday. Walter
  20. wes0778
    These guys are NUTZ :yikes:
  21. wes0778
    Lowered mine 800 miles ago and LOVE IT!!!
  22. wes0778
    And the sad part (if there is a sadder part) is if she had tried to get out of the way and was killed by cross traffic, there would have been BIG headlines that: a motorcyclist was killed when she ran a red light! We cannot win!!!
  23. wes0778
    Dennis, Thanks for the heads up. I tried leaving the ring out, but my lights have the little "ball cap bill" looking thingys on each light and without that thin metal ring they will not stay in place. As I mentioned in a previous post one of mine (right side) cracked and when I got to the LA MD, Saturday the bulb in the left one had burned out. I went to AutoZone to get a replacement bulb, which they had, but it is 55w. I went ahead and put it in for the time being. I'll see how long the bulb in the right side lasts, before ordering a replacement bulb from Adjure.
  24. wes0778
    This may be another dumb Walter question, but why not have the ignition switch control the relay and then there is no for the LED. When the ignition switch is on, the headlight IS on. I guess I don't understand the need to be able to turn off the headlight when the engine is running.
  25. wes0778

    CB Radio

    wes0778 replied to Art708's topic in Watering Hole

    And surely a Stealership would not leave something like THAT unplugged!!! :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:
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