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Chinto

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Everything posted by Chinto

  1. Thanks Ruffy for the info. I think the Battery Bug will be perfect for me. I have been wanting to get something but did not know what to get. I found the Battery Bug listed on ebay from a 100% feedback seller for $45 under Make an Offer. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Battery-Bug-Motorcycles-GL1800-Harley-Goldwing-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19bbcc7b4fQQitemZ110524922703QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
  2. Thanks, Great information. I found this tidbit of info there that points out that a failing battery can harm the charging system. I had not thought of that consequence. I remember a member recently reporting that he replaced his failed battery and later discovered his charging system was bad too. Which caused what???? Maybe it is not a got idea to wait til the battery is dead before you replace it. It may cost a lot more than a new battery. 14.13. MYTH: Bad batteries can harm the charging system or starter. True! A bad or weak starting battery causes additional stress on a charging system, starter motor or starter solenoid. It can cause premature failures due to compensating for the voltage or current. If you replace a battery, alternator, voltage regulator or starter, you should test the other components for damage and repair or replace them as required.
  3. You are in the same boat as I am. The battery is 4-5 years old depending on when the bike was manufactured. Bike batteries tend to just die, do you wait to get every last ounce of power out of it and accept inconvenient failure? Or bite the bullet. The question is will the current battery make the entire season?????
  4. You should check the Motorcycle Superstore website. They have a local dealer install service. You don't have to buy to see who locally installs. Motorcycle Superstore has local bike shops signed up to install the parts you buy from them. They will direct ship to that shop you pick. The cool part is the shops list their prices for the install service including tires without or without the bike. All you have to do is type in your zip code and it will show all the dealers that participate in your area. In my area the price ranges from 118-160/set. Its is like calling all the local dealers for their prices by typing in your zip code.
  5. Don't forget to change the air in your tires. Fall/Winter air in Cruisers must be changed to Spring/Summer air for best performance. High performance bikes like the V Max, Busa should be changed monthly for optimum performance.
  6. Isn't it funny, we will add $2500-$5000+ in "safety chrome" pay extra to insure it all because otherwise the insurance company will only cover stock. Then when it is time to trade "up" for a new "stock" bike none of the add-ons seem to have any value. So we start all over again adding "safety chrome" to the new ride. After all its only:mo money:
  7. I will ride several times per week anywhere from 20 to 100 miles per ride. Last season if I would plug the battery tender in (only when gone for a while) the battery would show full charge within a few minutes. This is why I am looking into a replacement battery. I think it is starting to fail. So like the classic questions before which oil, tire, wax, etc I would like some thoughts on which battery based on battery specifications or your experience because the price spread is pretty low ($20-$50). I am more interested in getting exceptional reliability and long life from the new battery.
  8. I am starting to think I may have a weak battery on my 06 RVS (it is the OEM battery) due to the fact that after a ride I have been connecting it to my Battery Tender. I would think it would show full charge very shortly after plugging it in but it takes several hours before that happens. Anyway, I have been looking at some of the replacement battery choices and have become confused by the specification on cold cranking amp ratings which I have thought was an important spec to look for. Example: Odyessy PC545 lists 185 CCA but somehow can muster 545 amps 5 sec 495 amps 10secs and 420 amps 20 secs Other batteries usually show 270 CCA which would seem better (bigger is better?) than 185 CCA but nothing about "pulse crank amps" Do they all have this rating? According to Odyessy theirs is the best battery you can buy just like what the other manufactures say eg. Yuasa, Dexa, Big Crank, Walmart etc. So what am I missing here, what are the most important specs to look for besides price. They can't all be of equal quality can they? The price range is $50 to $110 so we are only talking about $50 difference between the cheapest and most expensive. What I care about is a battery that has exceptional reliablity and long life. I hate equipment failure on the road. Thanks for your help
  9. You may also want to check on how your local municipalities tolerate LOUD bikes in Ohio. Around my area you will get a ticket sooner or later. My recommendation is put the baffles back in and turn up the radio.
  10. Since our turn signals are distance based instead of turned based like on cars I assume the distance set by Yamaha follows the average State's rules of the road. I have included the rules for Illinois regarding turn signal usage below: Signaling In a business or residential area you must give a continuous turn signal for at least 100 feet before turning. In other areas the signal must be given at least 200 feet before turning. Drivers may signal in two ways: Electrical turn signals Apply the right turn signal for a right turn and the left turn signal for a left turn. Hand and arm signals While I have not actually measured the distance my signal is active, I would bet it is at least 200 - 300 feet of actual signal distance. So depending at what distance you actuate the signal you will be short at 500 feet and long at 100 feet. I try to guess around 250 feet so the signal cancels just after I complete the turn. Sometimes my guess is perfect other times not so much. It is a little game I play cause I have a bit of a distance perception problem.
  11. Thanks for your input. I figured those who have been in there and seen the setup would know best. Thanks
  12. I was looking through the AMSOIL brochure and found Amsoil Spray Grease. See the link for specific details of this grease. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/glcspray.aspx Anyway a though occured to me and I am wondering what you think about this idea. Would this or similair grease, but a spray type grease being sprayed into the access port on top of the engine side drive shaft knuckle/driveshaft gear be sufficient lubrication? Even if you would do it a couple times/year. I have never looked into this port yet but all of the posts say you can feel the knuckle that accepts the shaft end so spraying this grease, maybe with tube on the end of the spray can to direct the grease better should get it on the gearing. Granted this is no substitute for a complete lube job tear down but maybe in between lubing when the tire doesn't need to be taken off, could it be effective? Or is this grease simply not suitable for this type of application? What do you all think???
  13. For hi vis have you checked out the Joe Rocket Military Spec jacket? The vest can be worn over any jacket too. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5/15/152/16828/ITEM/Joe-Rocket-Recon-Military-Spec-Jacket.aspx http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/2009_Joe_Rocket_Recon_Military_Spec_Jacket_Black.jpg file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/DAVIDB%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png
  14. I will be replacing my rear tire later this month and was studying up on how to lube the drive shaft ends. I found this post from DragonSlayer about the seal not fitting properly when re installing the drive shaft in the pumpkin. I don't understand how to either avoid this problem or how to make sure the seal is properly fitted so I don't create an oil leak. Please clarify the step of re installing the oil seal driveshaft into the pumpkin. The other posts only seem to talk about a "spring" the must be properly positioned but nothing about a seal. I think I get how the rest of this works but this oil seal makes me very nervous. Thanks for your help, Can't wait to get back in the saddle:Venture:
  15. Motorcycle Superstore.com has Michelin Commanders for 111.99 Rear 150/90-15 and 150/80 -16 Front for 99.99 with free shipping and no tire fee like Dennis Kirk requires. These are the ones I picked. Dunlop E3s are 130.00 for the rear
  16. While in the process of looking for a good deal on some new tires I discovered a warranty killer at least for Dunlop. It states in its warranty exclusions the following: Tires used on motorcycles fitted with trailers. Tires injected with dry/liquid balancers or sealants, or in which anything other than air has been used as the support medium. I am assuming this warranty exclusion is referring to the balancing beads and/or any leak preventing sealer? I looked on the Michelin website for similiar exclusion but did not find any. However, the Michelin tire care section is still under construction so it may be in the fine print too. You can see the entire list of Dunlop warranty exclusions at the link below. http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/infocenter_warranties.asp
  17. One thing not mentioned so far but for me is important and that is the first ride after winter storage implies that the roads have usually not recovered from winter yet. Around here that means a lot more loose gravel and sand will still be on the roads especially at the intersections. So along with everything previously mentioned the first ride should be mostly about getting reacqainted with riding again. Your riding skills need to be redeveloped and sharpened again after the long winters nap. Sharpen up your cornering skills etc. first before you start riding like you did when you put your bike into storage. I find that after a few miles I rebond and become one with my bike. I would hate to start the new season with a wreck on openning day.
  18. Isn't waste management and disposal restrictions in the US why mass produced chroming is done in China? How would you get rid of the contaminants and how much would it cost to dispose of it legally?
  19. I currently have Dunlop 404s (second set). The front still looks good but the rear is getting close to the wear bars. I will likely need to replace the rear sometime this season. Is there any reason why I should not mix this two tires? Dunlop 404 front and Dunlop E3s rear or Michelin Commander rear, which are the two rear tires I am considering this time. I am assuming that since they are both bias type tires there should be no problem. I hope! Thanks for your thoughts
  20. I just repacked my Bubs this past weekend. I was surprised to see that there was no packing in there. Do the Bub Sleepers come new without packing? I am anxious to try them out now with packing.
  21. I know this does not answer your question but I thought you might like this link to the performance of Rocket Man live at Ephesus as broadcasted on You Tube. You could copy and paste this link to your desktop and play it anytime you like from your computer. There is software that will let you capture You Tube broadcasts. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObV-6BiMtT8]YouTube- Rocket Man by Elton John Live at Ephesus[/ame]
  22. Gary You made a great looking tool. Mine came today. Can't wait to try it out. Thank you for your work on this project. Dave
  23. I just sent Paypal payment. Look forward to using the tool. Thanks
  24. This is a project on my to do list this spring but I don't have the right tool for the job until now. I definitely need and want one too. I can paypal you when your ready. Thanks
  25. I also stuck the lights in the saddlebags too. It never seemed to fail what I wanted was in a saddlebag at night.
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