Freebird

Fork Seal Replacement The manual will tell you to remove the fork assembly from the Bike, but this is not necessary! What I will explain is in my opinion is the fastest way to do the job. Special Tools needed Impact wrench (electric or air ) 17 MM hex head socket 8 or10 MM hex head socket (Most are 10mm but I have found 8mm) Last but not least you will need a tool to insert the seal into the fork body. Yamaha sells a tool, but it won’t work with this procedure, I made mine. See photo “tool” The rest of the tools needed come in the bike tool kit. To start: Place the bike on the center stand and a floor jack under the motor for safety. Remove as much air as possible from the front forks. { this is very important!} There is a small screw on each of the forks facing outward, this screw will let oil come out when removed and will let the rest of the pressure out, so unless you want a bath have a container ready. Remove the front brake calipers, wheel, and fender Place a container; pan something to catch the oil when you do the next step. Using an 8 or 10 MM allen socket and impact wrench remove the bolt at the end of the lower tubes. Remove the fork brace. Raise the dust cover on the first tube (small screw driver will work) Use screwdriver to remove the locking ring under the dust cover. Remove the plastic cover on the steering head and (86-93 disconnect the plug for the lights.) Remove the grills on both sides of the steering head. Remove the handlebars from the steering head (you don’t need to remove or disconnect anything just put them to the side) Remove the plastic/rubber covers on the fork tube caps. Loosen the 2, 12 MM headed bolts (or cap head bolts on later models) at the top brace on each side. NOW BE CAREFUL! Using the 17 MM hex head socket and what I call a speed wrench; stand on the foot pegs positioning your self so that the end of the speed wrench is against you shoulder when you loosen the tube caps. The caps have fine treads and are spring loaded so again be careful. Remove upper assembly & the spring on Yamaha springs or the plastic spacer and springs on Progressive springs for cleaning. Now to remove the lower tube by using it as you would the weight on a slide hammer, they don’t come off easy so start out easy and increase force until the two separate. When they do come apart; clean the inside of the lower tube be sure to note how the small pieces fit! If they are not put back the way they came out the anti-dive won’t work… Now remove the bad seal and replace it with the new one, be sure to use a little oil on the seal before installing it on the tube. Note to remove the old seal you have to remove the upper and lower bushings, silver washer, seal and gold colored washer when you put them back keep them in the same order. Reassemble in reverse of the above. You will need 13.5 oz of 10 or 15 WT fork oil for each tube. If the bike has a lot of miles or you live in hot country use 15WT Good luck and ride safe If you have a problem you can e-mail firstgen@mtariders.com or call 775-751-2169 Fred Vogt tool

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Splitting the Faring If you ride the second generation Venture long enough, you are eventually going to need to get into the faring. This may be to install passing lamps, repair a loose wiring connection, various reasons. Here are some step by step instructions to make the job easier for you. If you do not have passing lamps already installed, you can obviously skip the first step. If you have passing lamps, you will have to remove them in order to remove the front of the faring. The chrome cover in the center of the passing lamps simply snaps off. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring1.jpg Once the chrome comver is removed, there are two bolts that secure your passing lamps. The factory supplies allen bolts for this but mine have been changed out to regular hex heads. If you have allen bolts, a "ball end" allen wrench works best as it allows you to go in at an angle without hitting the bottom of the faring. In the following picture, I have removed the bolts and let the bar rest on my front fender. No need to unwire anything. Note the towel...don't want to scratch that pretty paint do we? NOTE: There are two spacers behind the bracket that you will most likely drop when removing these bolts. Be aware of them. You can usually hold your hand under the bracket as you remove the bolts but I usually end up dropping them anyway. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring2.jpg The next step is to remove the top two screws, one on each side, located on the inside of the faring. These two screws hold the top of the faring together and also secure the chrome strip at the bottom of your windshield. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring3.jpg Once these two screws are removed, you can carefully lift the chrome strip off. BE CAREFUL HERE. There are tabs molded into the chrome strip that are fairly easily broken. Lift first from each end and gently work it back and forth to separate the tabs from the faring. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring4.jpg Once the chrome strip is removed, simply remove the 6 screws that hold the windshield on. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring5.jpg After removing those 6 screws, the windshield will just lift out. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring6.jpg Now you are ready to remove the remaining 6 screws on the inside of the faring. There are 3 on each side. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring7.jpg After removing these 6 screws, the only thing hold the front of the faring on is the screw in the bottom of the headlight ring. I always save this one for last because it enables me to be in front of the bike where I had hold the faring and safely set it aside instead of watching it bounce off the floor. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring8.jpg Once you have this last screw removed, gently pull the faring off the headlight and set it aside. That's all there is to it. This is what you'll have now. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring9.jpg Now...regardless of why you took your faring apart, take the opportunity to check the connections for your audio system and etc. The big connectors are known to cause problems sometimes. In addition to the ones here, there is another one usually tucked under the tape/radio assembly. Simply pull them apart and use some good di-electric grease to ensure that they stay dry and do not corrode. http://www.venturerider.org/faring/faring10.jpg That's all this is to it folks. Putting it back together is just a matter of reversing these instructions and..of course...turning the screws the OTHER direction. A couple of notes though. As you are putting the screws back in the faring...don't snug them down tight until you have them all started..you might need to wiggle it around a bit to get them all started. VERY IMPORTANT. Do NOT overtighten any of the screws. Especially the ones along the top edge that secure the windshield. Yamaha didn't make that top edge thick enough in my opinion and many people have cracked the plastic around these screws. Just snug them down pretty good but not TOO tight.

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NOTE: For those of you who do not feel comfortable or don't have the tools to make your own leveling links, they are also available from Diamond R Accessories. An excellent vendor with great products. You can find them at http://www.diamondraccessories.com

BARNETT CLUTCH CONVERSION INSTALLATION The parts were ordered from Rick at Buckeye Performance in Ohio. The fiber discs ONLY were replaced given the wear and mileage, the plates were reusable. Parts used: FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16321-01-04 (notched/6 ea.) FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16307-01-00 (un notch/1 ea.) Retaining wire BNT-SR-2 CONVERSION SR-2 SPRING CLUTCH (1 set) STARTING NOTE: This was done without removing the clutch pedal or linkage. Also note that with the bike on it's side stand, there is little or no loss of oil. 1. Remove the clutch housing cover. After removing the bolts the cover may need a bit of persuading to give it up. CAUTION! A rubber hammer is recommended, as one was not available when this was done, a hammer was employed along with a very thick towel to soften the taps to the housing. 2. With the cover removed the next step is removing the diaphragm and pressure plate. These items won't be used and can be discarded or stored. This time the 6 bolts were reused. Others have replaced them with new bolts. 3. Next remove the old friction plates and discs. Note: there is a set of 1 plate and 1 disc held at the very bottom of the clutch basket by a thin retaining wire. The wire is held in place by a couple of bent ends that are pushed through a hole in the basket. The wire needs to be removed and the last two pieces taken out. 4. The empty basket. Clean and get ready for reassembly. Check the edges of the uprights for any burrs or imperfections. NOTE: When inserting the discs make sure that you have the tang with the double notches aligned with the two 'dots' on the clutch basket. 5. Place one disc and then (the odd) friction plate (#YA26H-16321-01-00) and one re-used spacer into the base of the basket. Make sure they are soaked with fresh oil. (take note that there are no notches on the first disc) Place the NEW wire into the channel cut into the basket and into the notches of the basket uprights and secure it by pushing the bent ends into the hole. Be patient. A long thin screwdriver also facilitates the job. NOTE: You can never have enough oil on the new discs and plates. When inserting the discs and plates, double check to make sure that the notches are lined up with the two dots on the lip of the basket. NOTE: Here is what a full basket looks like. 6. The final plate goes in. 7. Place the Barnett Clutch pressure plate on the basket. The instructions with the Barnett show the "Barnett" label up, but you will probably need to rotate it until it fits right. Just rotate the plate until it is seated without any gap between the plate and the top disc. 8. With the plate sitting correctly in the basket and the ease of the spring compression to start the bolts. Torque the bolts at 8 lbs. 9. Put the new gasket on, the housing on and secure the cover. Time involved is about an hour to an hour and a half.

Brake Bleeder If you have ever gotten air in the rear brake system of a 83-85 Venture you know how tuff it is to get it out again. This is a simple fix, well maybe not that simple. In 1986-93 Ventures Yamaha fixed the problem by adding a short extension to the left front brake hose Part # 2WR-25873-01-00. The end of the hose was mounted on the top of the triple tree with a small bracket. This hose Must be ordered from Yamaha Japan . There are two other parts, NUT 95306-12600-00 & bleeder assembly Part # 1NL-W0048-00. It was $105 for the hose from Yamaha. But if you can find it in a junk yard it will be a lot cheaper and you will get all three parts. It is a little tuff to get the Banjo bolt out and back in because it attaches to the proportioning valve almost hidden under the top bar on the triple tree see Pic 01, the hose routing see Pic 02. http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image002.jpg Picture 1 Picture 2 This would be an excellent project for those winter months when you aren't riding. Fred Vogt

YAMAHA VENTURE BATTERY REPLACEMENT AND CM WARNING BYPASS BY JACK (Condor) CHALAIS http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY1.jpgBecause we were experiencing hard starts, erratic cold starts, and low battery voltage after our '83VR sat for a few days, we decided to replace the existing battery, installed by the previous owner, with one of the new AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries that have recently become available due to new technology. Having never had any experience with these new maintenance free types, but doing a lot of research we felt that a new ODYSSEY AGM would solve a lot of our hard start problems. For more info click here http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY2.jpgAfter removing the false tank cover, the battery is located under fuse holder. Remove the fuse box by unhooking the rubber hold down strap.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY3.jpgWith the fuse holder out of the way the top of the battery with the low battery acid sensor. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY4.jpgLocate the white/red striped wire leading to the sensor and cut with a pair of dikes. Make sure to leave the wire long enough to work with later on. The sensor might have a different colored wire coming out of it and spliced into the white/red. In this case it's blue. We chose to cut the blue wire after the crimp to give us room to play with, but before the crimp will work as well.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY5.jpgUndo the battery cables and remove the battery from the box. Set aside the cable screws for later.. This is the time to do a little house cleaning. We found our box interior coated with white acid corrosion. We soaked the box interior with a baking powder/water mix, and then tried to blot up the residue. No luck. Had to remove the battery box to get it cleaned up properly. I removed the 2 screws at the base, and with a little coaxing got the box out. If your screws are in bad shape due to the corrosion, replace them with those set aside from the cables.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY6.jpgOnce the house cleaning has been accomplished set the new battery in place and hook up the cables. We found the ODYSSEY, although heavier than the wet cell, had a smaller footprint. Later we added strips of packing Styrofoam to fill the voids.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY7.jpgAfter installing the battery, turn the ignition key to the start position. The CM will go thru it's normal check list if everything is connected properly. Because the battery sensor has been disconnected the red warning light and battery icon will stay on. You can continue to operate the bike like this, or take a trip to your local Radio Shack and pick up some 1k and 2.2k ohm resistors. They run a buck for a 5 pack. They're cheap and the reason to pick up both is, one or the other will work, and if you should happen to pick up the wrong size it would cost more in gas than it costs for another pack of resistors, to run back up to the store. So go ahead....splurge! You might also pick up a tube of silver bearing solder while you're at it. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY8.jpgOpen the top of the fuse box and locate the accessory fuse. Remove the fuse. If your lead is held in by a screw, attach an 8" piece of wire to the terminal using a terminal eye. In our case they were crimped in and we soldered the end to the existing wire stub.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY9.jpgClip the ends of the resistor wire down to something manageable to about 1" in length. Solder the resistor between the lead from the fuse box and the sensor lead. Don't forget to place a piece of heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the resistor and the lead ends before doing any soldering. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY10.jpg Put the fuse back in the accessory, and turn the ignition key on again. The red light should go out and the CM thinks it has a full battery. If not, try replacing the resistor with one smaller or larger, as the case may be.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY11.jpgReplace the fuse box top, and in this case we will filled the gaps with paper towels. Later we replaced the towels with about half inch Styrofoam so it looks like we knew what we were doing. Button everything back up and you should be good to go. We found that with the new battery the scoot started quicker, warmed up without sputtering, coughing and missing, and idled much smoother. We feel we made the right choice. Hope this helps. ~Jack

Thanks to Cougar for the excellent write-up UPDATE How much Power? / Amps? Well As some of you know that I have been Adding all kinds of Goodies to my RSV this past couple months. I added the modulite. I added the 240 watt Amp. I added the New Speakers. I added the new LED lights all over the place.. trailer , bike ect. I added the Sirius Satellite Radio. I added the GPS Unit. Now with all that said, some of you and even myself wondered how the heck the Charging system would do? Well I got the kuryakyn battery meter today http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=2695 and hooked that bad boy up.. Then I started the bike up and turned ALL of this stuff ON! And holding the brakes on / radio full power (30) Even the HIGH BEAMS... these were the results with engine in the Idle mode http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpg Then I Brought up the RPM's to about 5k or so.. then this is what It was reading http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpg I shut the engine off and left all the stuff on for about 15 Min's and this is what it showed. http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment.jpg Anyways! I feel better now knowing that my Electrical System Is able to handle all this kewl stuff I added without to much worry. Just thought I would share this Info with ya folks! (oh, that is with the trailer attached to the bike as well) (the meter also go's into dim mode at night) Jeff

Thanks to Cougar for this excellent write-up Installed the Electronic Connection AMP http://www.electricalconnection.com/audio/amp.htm The Install took about 6 to 8 hours. (with no beer) Start here and remove the seat/tank/passenger seat/front fairing/rear speakers. I had already installed upgraded speakers so I just took them off and put them there to work on. also you need to get that trunk cleaned out *LOL* remove the nylon purse thingy and that should get you ready. (MOUSE OVER THE PICS TO MAKE THEM LARGER) then mouse over again to make even larger ~S~ (bottom right) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_024.jpg (remove front of fairing) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_053.jpg (remove passenger seat) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_014.jpg (remove tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_005.jpg (remove driver seat) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_028.jpg (remove junk out of trunk , pad and the nylon junk holder) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_011.jpg (remove rear speakers) Then cut a "X" in that kewl rubber grommet that Yamaha Left for us to use and start running the wires like how I did if you want. (REMEMBER) THERE IS ONLY 25 FT I had 12 inches left over when finished! I used a 12 Gage High Strand Count wire for the Power and Ground they say run the ground short.. Its OK to run ground to the battery , worked fine for me. ( Phil at E/C says thats fine as well ) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment.jpg (cut a *X* hole on the grommet) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_013.jpg (start to run wires)(one at a time)(MARK THEM) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_043.jpg (wires running over the rear fender) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_018.jpg (wires running to beginning of drivers seat area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_048.jpg (wires running under modulite and toward tank area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_008.jpg (same) bad pic http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_009.jpg (wires starting to run from seat area to under tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_042.jpg (wires running under the tank area) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_030.jpg (wires running almost at front of tank now into the fairing) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_006.jpg (same pic darker) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_038.jpg (kind of not in order *oops* again running under the start of tank) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_022.jpg (12 Gage wire running back to trunk) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_045.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_020.jpg (wires running through that kewl hole under trunk) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_050.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_010.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_041.jpg (and up through hole in trunk) Now make sure your marking your wires with a sharpie number 1 for wire one. number 2 for wire 2 ect.. or mark black bands around them each time you run a Purple wire. (ON EACH END) run ONE AT A TIME! (then mark) the instructions are pretty clear. http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_025.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_016.jpg (left front speaker) #1 , the instructions will tell you How to wire these It's pretty simple! http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_040.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_023.jpg (solder and heat shrink) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_032.jpg (shrink) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_012.jpg (shrink more) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_019.jpg (make it pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_049.jpg (now run to the trunk and find the wire you MARKED for left front speaker and do what it says on the label) I had no patients to solder all these wires. so I used the supplied connectors! http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpg speaker 3 (rear left) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_015.jpg (starting to look like a spider web or mess) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_047.jpg (get the power and ground and REM wire hooked up as well) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_029.jpg (same mess) Now for the Rest.. keep them wires nice and neat! look at the pics under the seat I have a modulite and ran a "U" shape under that then put the modulite back in it's place.. ALL the wires even the 12 Gage will fit in that Rubber Grommet. Also run the one wire it says to a Lights On Wire what ever one you pick the Unit will power on only when its hooked to a source like your lights when the key is on .. I chose this way because if I went to the AUX to power the AMP the engine isn't running and that might drain the battery pretty fast. (that wire will be the REM Wire. You will see if you decide to do this project. Place the AMP in the Trunk.. put it in any direction you wish It will run any way you wish.. I chose this way.. http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_046.jpg ( don't forget to adjust the Channels settings to about were it shows) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_037.jpg (same) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_036.jpg (make it all neat and pretty and put those back speakers in place) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_021.jpg (hook those ground and power wires up to the battery with a in-line fuse (supplied) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_051.jpg (your choice) on how you want the place the amp. If this way -remove that nylon holder thingy) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_031.jpg (I used a aluminum plate I had laying around,you could use a piece of plywood I bet) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_044.jpg (get this high power Velcro type stuff at Radio-Shack) (2 packages) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_026.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_004.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_034.jpg (start sticking) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_007.jpg (make pretty with the auto wire cover up stuff (3/4 Dia) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_039.jpg (keep making pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_027.jpg (go go go ) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_052.jpg (damn that looks nice) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_035.jpg (wow it powered up) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_017.jpg (damn thats pretty) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpg (cut the carpet where that kewl hole for the wire were and put that back in) http://www.venturerider.org/amp/thumbnails/attachment_033.jpg (wow the helmets still fit in there) I removed the purse/web holder bracket and put the screws back in for the speaker pods.. them I had a aluminum plate and placed it over that part as you can see. USE THAT HEAVY VELCRO from Radio Shack.. then finish it up.. Turn Radio on and WOW.. Make sure you don't do what I did and not Adjust those dials first..(CH#1/2 - CH#3/4 ) the sound was worse *LOL* (notice in the Pic were I set mine for the Pioneers) still plenty of room left on the dial. After I did that.. Its amazing. and with the speakers I have now the Pioneers , that are pretty good. I still cant turn the AMP Watts any farther. so there is plenty of room to spare. Oh Yes notice that our helmets still fit in the trunk! (you don't need to use the black isolator on this bike there is no motor noise, popping or anything) Any Questions Feel Free to call Phil @ E/C great folks. Jeff

Plugging the AIS System The AIS is an emissions system which introduces oxygen-bearing air into the exhaust ports on the exhaust stroke. This induces further combustion of hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipe and greatly reduces emissions. It is driven by intake vacuum pulses. The only purpose of this system is to help satisfy our good old EPA requirements. Though good in theory, it's bad in that under certain conditions it can cause a HUGE backfire on deceleration that actually sounds like a shotgun going off. The first time this happened to me, I thought we were being shot at and my wife almost jumped off the bike. Disabling the AIS is a simple process and one that will not affect the performance of your bike in any way. The following is one way of doing so. There are two assemblies that you have to deal with. One on the rear and one on the front. We'll start with the rear and it is very easy. On the right side of the bike, just below the rear shock, you will find the first one. You'll want to disconnect the large hose with the gold clamp. Now..you can use most anything to plug the hose. I used rubber stoppers that I had picked up at a local Home Depot store. You can find these in the hardware department but a wooden dowel rod or most anything of the proper size will work fine. Look carefully and you can see that I have stuck the rubber stopper into the inlet on the AIS valve. Now in this next picture, I've simply stuck a piece of duct tape over the end of the valve and stopper. You can probably skip this step if you want but being born and raised in Texas...it's just part of my upbringing. Any job worth doing is worth using a bit of duct tape on. Besides...it keeps the plug where I want it and not up in the hose somewhere. Now you put the hose back on and you are done with the rear. That wasn't so bad was it? Don't worry...though essentially the same process, the front will give you plenty of grief simply because it's harder to get to. Now the front AIS valve is located just in front of the oil filter. The attached blurry picture is a bit hard to see but you can see the gold clamp that secures the hose you'll need to remove. Now....there are two ways to do this to make it a bit easier. The first way would be to do it when you do an oil change. With the filter removed, you can pretty much forget the rest of this write-up. Simply disconnect the hose as you did on the rear, insert the rubber plug, add the duct tape, reconnect the hose and you are done. If you are ready to do this and you are not ready for an oil change, here is a tip that will make it easier. Just below the drivers floorboard on the left side of the bike (shifter side), you will see two allen bolts. These are the bolts that secure the AIS assembly in place. Remove those two bolts and the assembly will be free, held only by the hose that you will disconnect. You can now pull down on the assembly enough to get to the clamp without skinning your knuckles. Once the hose is off, the assembly just drops out. Now...just plug this hole in the assembly as you did on the rear. Put it all back together and you are done. Not a difficult job at all. Figure about 30 to 45 minutes total.

In order to keep our merchandise from being lost in a lot of posts and responses, this topic area is read only. Please use the "Watering Hole" if you wish to discuss this merchandise or have any questions. I you wish to use the VentureRider logo on merchandise to be sold to our members, please send me a PM or email with the details. Only myself and our moderators may add items to this area. Thanks, Don

Synchronizing The Carburetors WARNING! Please be aware that the Yamaha Service Manual has the procedure for syncing the carburetors WRONG. The manual indicates that screw 1 is used to sync carb 1 to carb 2 and that screw 3 is used to sync carb 3 to carb 2. That is opposite of what it should be. The following is the correct procedure. NOTE: Prior to synchronizing the carburetors, the valve clearance and the engine idling speed should be properly adjusted and the ignition timing should be checked. 1. Stand the motorcycle on a level surface. NOTE: Place the motorcycle on a suitable stand. 2. Remove vacuum plugs. 3. Install: Adapters Vacuum gauge (Fig.2) Engine tachometer (Fig.2) to the spark plug lead of cyl. #1. Vacuum gauge: YU-08030-A, 90890-03094 (These are Yamaha part numbers. Any suitable mercury sticks, or other suitable gauges are just fine) Engine tachometer: YU-08036-A, 90890-03113 (Yamaha part numbers. Any suitable tachometer will work. A tachometer is not absolutely required 4. Start the engine and let it warm up for several minutes. 5. Check engine idling speed. If out of specification, adjust to 950 to 1050 RPM. Refer to "ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING SPEED". in your service manual 6. Adjust carburetor synchronization. A. (Fig.3) Synchronize carburetor #1 to carburetor #2 by turning the synchronizing screw (3) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: After each step, rev the engine two or three times, each time for less than a second, and check the synchronization again. B.Synchronize carburetor #4 to carburetor #3 by turning the synchronizing screw (2) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: Turning screw clockwise raises carburetor #4 and lowers carburetor #3. C. Synchronize carburetor #2 to carburetor #3 by turning the synchronizing screw (1) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: Turning screw clockwise raises carburetor #3 and lowers carburetor #2. Vacuum pressure at engine idling speed is 37 kPa (280 mmHg). NOTE: The difference in vacuum pressure between two carburetors should not exceed 1.33 kPa (10.0 mmHg, 0.4 inHg). 7. Check engine idling speed. If out of specification, adjust. 8. Stop the engine and remove the measuring equipment. Yamaha then recommends the following. 9. Adjust: Throttle cable free play Refer to "ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE CABLE FREE PLAY". Throttle cable free play (at the flange of the throttle, grip) 4 - 6 mm (0.16 - 0.24 in) 10. Install vacuum plugs.