Freebird

Actually pretty cool in a strange sort of way. Almost like a VMax/Venture on steroids.

Don, I've tried to help but don't know what else to do. I've tried calling and got a machine and left my number. I've tried emailing and even told him that if it is a financial issue, I would pay the shipping. He has not responded to any of my emails. I must emailed him again to let him know that I would be in that area in a few weeks and would come by his house one evening to see if we can get this resolved.

The MicMutes works very well. It should be standard on the RSV.

There is a MTA member who sells some of this stuff. No kit though. Here is what he does have or at least I think he still does. NOW AVAILABLE: New OEM replacement carb diaphragms for all models, Venture and V-Max. With new formulation gasoline, diaphragm will develop holes and tears which hurts performance and mileage. Yamaha sugg. list, $90—my New Reduced price is just $60 each and includes US postage. Also Now available: Brake Rebuild Kits for all 83-85 Ventures, front and rear @ $25.95. Includes seals, dust ring, valve cover; Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit for 83-85 @$25.95; and Clutch Rebuild Kit for all 1st generation Ventures @ $29.95. Contact Steve Morris by telephone 310-325-6388; fax: 310-539-4630; or e-mail: SMorrisRN@aol.com. Steve is a good guy and lives in California. This is from an old ad but I think he still does this.

OK...I've added my answers to your message. I'm sure you will get other opinions also.

Here you go Dan..... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dgs2riK_IrA]YouTube - Yamaha Speedstar Drag Pipes Stratoliner[/ame]

Looks like a cool replacement for a small scooter. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUXhJZZRUIg]YouTube - New SUMO[/ame]

Really nothing more than the typical things to start with. Age of the tires, flush/change the brake fluid, oil, etc. I would pull the rear wheel and grease the drive shaft U-Joint, check and possibly change brake pads. They are great bikes. There are some things to check and watch as you go along but that is where I would start.

No, the bandwidth is actually from wherever the video is hosted. This is just a link to them.

OK....it seems to work just fine. Now for the instructions. All you do is type whatever message you wish to type and then type or past the URL to the video. That's it. The following video sites are supported. Youtube, Metacafe, iFilm, Putfile, Bolt, Google Video, Guba, Grouper, Revver, Atom Films, Veoh, Myspace Video, Vimeo, Vmix, Eyespot, Liveleak, Sapo Unfortunately, these are NOT supported due to the way that they parse their URLs. Photobucket, [ame=http://www.dailymotion.com/]Dailymotion - Share Your Videos[/ame], vidiLife, Yahoo Video, AOL Uncut, Yikers, Addicting Clips, vSocial, ManiaTV, Phanfare, CastPost, Jumpcut, Sharkle, Clipshack, Filecow, Break I'm thinking about created a new topic area for videos. Opinions?

This is a small compilation from the dragon. Not bad but I'm really just testing the video embedding feature that I am trying to add to our forum. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8Xf2Db313Y]YouTube - Tail of the Dragon, 1st edit[/ame]

Maybe these pics will help. This is the vacuum actuated located under the left lower cowling.

Very good post. Thanks for telling us how you repaired it. Many have had problems with the sensor and they ARE too expensive. You may have just saved somebody a lot of money.

It may be the free play that needs adjusting. You have to remove the lower left cowling to get to the vacuum actuator. There is a nut on the actuator..actually two nuts..where the cable goes through where you adjust the free play. Instructions are in the manual if you have one. If not, let me know and I'll see about posting the picture.

OK....this is one of those things that I don't WANT to admit but it might help somebody else so I guess I will. I've been finishing up all the little things that I wanted to do to the bike before leaving for Fort Collins. Yesterday I changed the oil, changed the differential oil, etc. I got the Flanders bar, clutch lines, throttle cables, front brake lines, etc. all changed over the past couple of weeks but had decided to wait on changing the rear SS brake line after getting back. This morning I decided that I was just being lazy so I went ahead and changed it and got the rear brake bled and that is done. Then I decided to take if for a little ride. I still hadn't double checked the calibration of the Speedohealer so I found a road with mileage markers, got up to 60 MPH, hit the cruise and NOTHING. The set light came on but it would not engage. So....I went ahead and checked the Speedohealer without using the cruise. It was dead on at 7 1/2% error calibration so that is good. Got home and decided to work on the cruise. I figured it had to be in the throttle cable box under the gas tank. That's the only thing I had messed with that would screw up the cruise. So I pulled the seat, gas tank, etc. and opened up the throttle box. There was a spring that I wasn't sure how it was supposed to go when I put it back together so I was pretty sure that was the problem. Really couldn't tell how it should go and there is no drawing of it in the manual so I changed it and figured I had it right. I put the gas tank, seat, all that junk back on and went for another ride. STILL no cruise. So...got home and pulled the seat, gas tank, etc. again and opened up the throttle box a second time. This time it was as obvious as it could be. I had the cable from the cruise actuator wrapped around the wrong direction. Stupid mistake as it's fairly obvious which way it should go. So, if you change out your cables, make sure you wrap the cruise cable the right direction. I hate to admit to such a dumb mistake but if it saves somebody else from making it, then I guess it's OK.

Not EVERYBODY calls it dark pink.....I've also heard it referred to as the "Barney Bike".

I see that somebody just posted in the classifieds that they bought a '99 that somebody has put the pillow top seat on. He doesn't like it and is looking for a regular seat. Might be a good chance for one of you who are wanting the pillow top to make a deal. I agree with him though, the pillow top is WAY soft for me. I know that some of you really like them though.

I've not tried the Roadhouse but I've tried several different mufflers and my opinion is that you will not have to re-jet with any of them.

I just wash mine like I would anything else. I don't remove anything, I don't cover anything, I just wash it. I don't aim the spray directly into the speakers but I don't fret over them either. Been doing it that way since buying it in '99 and no problems yet. I do remove the bags, seat and etc. about once a year for a more thorough cleaning.

Just an addition to this thread. I am not recommending that anybody do this but since my AIS was plugged anyway, when I bike was no longer under warranty I completely removed the AIS system. Removing it is simple enough but once you do, it is pretty much destroyed and you will not be able to put it back on so be sure that this is something that you want to do. The problem is that you have to cut the brackets on the rear AIS to get the metal tubes out of the frame of the bike. After removing it, I used copper tubing caps from the local hardware store to cap off the ports. When you remove the lines, you will see some high temp gaskets inserted in the ends. I removed those gaskets and used them inside the copper caps to ensure a good seal. I also cut some slits in the sides of the caps so that they would tighten down better. Then just used hose clamps to secure them. These have been on now for about 3 years with no problems.

Conversion to Single Antenna Thanks to Steve Bumgardner (Bummer) While removing the gas tank I managed to lean in too far and snap the center load on the CB antenna. Guess I should have put it up while I was working on the bike. Live and learn. Problems: The stock antenna is $140 or so, and it's obviously not very stout. The twin antenna system reduces the efficiency of the CB antenna. Probably not enough to worry about, but it's there if you like to sweat that sort of thing. Solution: One antenna serving both radios. Note: Some splitters reduce output power. Testing indicates that the Firestik splitter does not reduce final output power to the antenna. 4 watts in, 4 watts out. Many thanks to Marshall Gammon for his site http://bludolphintravel.com/gmg/marshallmod.htm It was a wonderful starting point. Preparation: Read the manual with the splitter. Read and understand the manual that came with your SWR meter. Check out the help files on the Firestik site http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs.htm If you've never worked with coax you should probably read http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/Coax_Procg.htm for tips. Parts: 1 Firestik Firefly 3 foot CB antenna $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_97&products_id=897 1 300-340 stud mount base $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=251 1 folding mount $15.00 – This part is way too sloppy but it works if you require a folder. http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=29_112&products_id=262 1 90 degree PL-259 adapter $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/360359-coax-right-angle-adapter-p-233.html 1 CB FM splitter $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=221 1 PL-259 male plug $2.50 1 PL-259 reducer model UG176 $.50 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103401 1 Motorola female $1.50 2 Motorola male $2.00 Solder and shrink tubing Installation: The CB lives in a plastic box under the trunk. The lid is held in place with two rubber straps. This mod assumes access to the CB by removal of the trunk as needed. (Remove six screws in the bottom of the trunk, then close the trunk and carefully rotate the rear up and forward. There's wiring up front. I used the 'balance with forehead' technique to hold it up whenever I needed to get to the CB. The red spot's almost gone. Be careful. It's way too easy to put a nasty scratch in the trunk while you're doing this. Sigh.) Remove and do as you will with the old antenna. Mine may eventually grow up to be a flag mast. Remove and retain the wire between the antenna and the CB. Place the stud mount base on the antenna support with the nylon washer at the top. If you are using one place the folding mount in the stud mount, with the fold pointed front/back. Screw the antenna into this. Don't get carried away with the antenna itself. All else should be tight. Screw the 90 adapter into the bottom and aim it toward the radio. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image002.jpg Antenna base. I had to use a file and cut two notches in the stud base. Most PL-259 females have notches all around so that the locking points on the male can keep it from rotating while maintaining good contact. This one had none. A half dozen swipes with an edge of a triangular file did the job. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image004.jpg The notch Use the old wire to measure where to cut the CB Antenna Out wire on the splitter. Solder a PL-259 male plug on the wire you cut off. This is your new antenna wire. Put a male motorola plug on the CB Antenna Out wire of the splitter. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image006.jpg Wiring details. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image008.jpg Finished wiring – I didn't shorten the FM antenna wire the first time. It doesn't have to be, but it makes the box a bit crowded. Screw your new antenna wire into the 90 at the base of the antenna. Test for continuity and shorts. The tip of the antenna should have continuity with the center of the CB antenna wire. It should not have continuity with the outside of the plug. The CB antenna wire shield (outside of plug) should have continuity with the antenna support that came with the bike. Screw the end of the antenna wire into the splitter's Antenna In plug. Route this wire through the hole the old antenna wire went through. Plug the CB out wire into the CB box (gray plug). Remove the FM antenna, base and all. Cut the end off of the FM wire and solder the female Motorola plug on. The core goes to the center of the plug. The shielding goes to the body of the plug. Use some shrink wrap to cover the whole thing. Cut a notch in the side of the plastic box and route the FM antenna wire with the new plug into the box. I made a notch in the lip of the top and a matching one in the slot of the box. I kept this a tight fit to keep water out. Plug the splitter's FM Out lead into the FM antenna wire, fold it up into the box beside the CB. Place the splitter under the wires coming into the box on the left. Massage all the wiring to fit. Close it up. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image010.jpg In the box. Now that everything fits, it's time to set the Standing Wave. THIS MUST BE DONE or you'll toast your CB output transistor. Remove the plug from Antenna In on the splitter. Remove the plug between the splitter and the CB. Add a male PL-259 to male motorola patch cord to the antenna input wire (gray plug). Let the patch cord and the antenna wire dangle outside the box. Put the trunk back in place. Plug the antenna wire into Antenna on the SWR meter. Plug the wire from the radio into Radio on the SWR meter. Set the standing wave as per meter instructions. I got a meter at the Rat Shack. I got a http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=934 and a http://www.walcottcb.com/12mfpl-pl259-to-motorola-female-12-long-p-198.html to connect the meter to the antenna system. I had to screw the adjuster on the antenna most of the way in. After some tinkering with the tip I got a 1.3 on 20 and just under 1.7 on 1 and 40. Once the antenna SWR is set you have to tune the splitter. Connect the antenna to Antenna In on the splitter. Connect a male motorola to male PL-259 patch cord to CB Out on the splitter. Connect these to your meter and check SWR. You'll have to turn the CB adjusting screw on the splitter to bring the SWR back down to where it was when you set the antenna. Mine is turned all the way down. You can now set the AM as per splitter instructions. When the antenna and splitter are both set disconnect the meter and the patch cord. Put the antenna wire back on Antenna In and the CB out wire into the gray socket. Pack everything back into the box, put the lid on, and bolt the trunk back in place. Breaker, breaker, two nine. End result: Single antenna system for under $75.

I may have some off the old '83 but I'm not sure exactly what you are talking about. If I have any, they are yours for the price of shipping.

No problem at all. I figured that would work out better for you. Besides, Larry is a MUCH nicer guy than I am.

I'm looking forward to it. Be prepared ... it will probably take at LEAST 10 minutes.

No problem...I'm sending you a PM now.