Freebird

Thanks to Bikenut for this excellent information. Here is a list of replacement U-joints for the drive shaft on the 1st Gen Ventures. I have been running the B110 datson u-joint on my trike kit and it works great. Here is the list 1966 thru 1973 B110 Datson Car parts store Trw 20128 Spicer 5-1500X AEC 1064 Precision 392 Keith Yedica Bikenut Casco,Wisconsin Before you go this route, please read the next post.

Squeezes post has been copied to the tech library and award issued. Thank you very much.

Originally posted by "Squeeze" In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a engine starting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Battery power gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Battery manufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar. __________________ Life's too short to have bad Drinks ....

I've got the Barons Tach that is mounted on the reservoir and I really like it a lot. They DO still make it. They just don't offer it as a package now. They sell the reservoir mount as a separate item.

Utopia never made a centerstand...it would have to be Diamond R. You can find them at: http://www.diamondraccessories.com They are great folks too.

I had them at one time. FANTASTIC sound but I finally got tired of any excess noise and went back to stock. They are excellent quality though and can be repacked if they get too noisy for you.

I've heard nothing since the email asking for my telephone number so that he could call me. He never called. I sent another email last week and have heard nothing further. Maybe I'll try to call him tomorrow.

Yes...I would say that it's definitely a matter of time. Shouldn't be too hard though to build a stand off.

Well...my answer wouldn't be quiet that drastic. I would inspect them well for hairline cracks on the sidewalls and between the treads. If you see no cracks...then you should be OK. Now if they are the Bridgestones...I would have thrown them away regardless of how old they are.

It is a 2006. They didn't make the white in 2005.

So what are you guys doing about the lower air deflectors? I know that if the rubber stop is not up against the forks, they will reverberate and break the brackets.

Graphic Equalizer in place of Cassette. Submitted by John Richie Most of the credit for this installation process goes to Kevin Wisor who brought up the topic back in Dec 06. I am providing the steps with photos. The 7 band graphic equalizer is the Pyramid Model 403G, $25.00 at www.etronics.com, advertised as 100 watt amp with a 12 db boost for each band. Dimensions are 4.8"W x 4.75"D x 1"H. The new sound is an improvement over factory, especially if you boost all of the bands, but is only for the speakers, not the headset. This setup disables the cassette player and removes the connector for the CD player (attached to cassette circuit board). The equalizer fits perfectly in the original case for the factory cassette player, but does require modifying the face plate to accept the front of the equalizer. Removal of the cassette player also removes the factory AUX plug, so run an extension line from the factory head unit to a new location on the inner fairing. The speakers work both with the power turned on or off for the equalizer. Installation requires tapping into the speaker wiring harness, as the equalizer needs an output source from the factory amplifier. I cut the wires from the front left/right speaker harness, and used as the left and right “output” as shown on the electrical connection diagram. These go to the “input” on the equalizer. Run new wires to all speakers from the equalizer. Since I could not locate the rear speaker wire in the front fairing harness, I just ran new wires to the rear speaker(s). This disengages the factory fader control on the handlebar remote, but the equalizer has a fader control for the front to rear. The basic installation steps follow, with photos: Remove (split) the Front Fairing. Remove headlight assembly. Remove the brackets holding the stereo head unit, move head unit to left side (out of the way). Remove the four mounting bolts for the cassette deck, and remove the two screws that hold the cassette face plate to the inner fairing. Unplug AUX line and cassette deck wire connector. Keep the cassette deck front door closed for removal of cassette unit from the inner fairing. Carefully (toward the front of the bike) pull the cassette unit out of the inner fairing. Photo of cassette deck. Cut clear protective tape, remove the two lid screws, and lift the top from the deck. NOTE: Do NOT remove the side screws that hold the door assembly! Bottom: remove screws, clamps, and remove the cassette works (mounted with four rubber shock mounts). Pull off the rubber grommet protecting the rear deck wires and reuse when installing the equalizer. Also, I used the connector cap for the CD connector to cap off the original wiring harness connector for the cassette deck. Measure and cut the face plate of the cassette housing to allow mounting of the equalizer. Carefully cut the plastic face plate with a Dremel. The equalizer should be pushed into the face plate enough to use the fader and power button, but not too far or the front door will not close properly. The cut area should be made to fit between the top lip and the 2 fairing mount screw holes at the bottom of the cassette plastic face plate. After I did the rough grinding, I carefully used a small file to fine tune the cut area until the equalizer fit snugly in the face plate. Final mounting of the equalizer in the housing. I did not use the supplied mounting brackets for the equalizer, but instead removed the side screws from the equalizer box, drilled a hole on each side of the cassette housing, and mounted the equalizer with a metric machine screw on each side. The equalizer is held in the front by the plastic face plate and on the sides by the two mounting screws. Re-use the rubber grommet from the cassette deck wires to mount the wires from the equalizer on the rear slot of the housing. Re attach the top lid to the cassette housing and cover with clear packing tape to protect from water damage. Make sure that the door opens and closes properly. Reinstall the equalizer/cassette housing unit in the inner fairing, and again check the door for smooth operation. Disconnect the wire to the rear speaker(s) and run a new set under the seats and gas tank to the front fairing. Since I removed the trunk from my RSV, I only use one speaker in the rear, mounted between the bars of the passenger back support. For those with the trunk, the factory configuration uses only one set of wires for the two rear speakers (mono sound), so now is your chance to run two sets of wires, one to each rear speaker, for true stereo sound in the rear. Hook up all of the wiring for the equalizer using the supplied wiring diagram. Turn on the key, power up the equalizer, and check that all is well. Re-mount the front fairing and enjoy. Thanks, John Richie

The fallen soldiers and their families and friends will be in our prayers. So sorry to hear more of this news.

First Generation Venture Starter Clutch Repair Thanks to GeorgeS for the GREAT write-up On my 89, I completed pulling the Rotor and Starter Engage Clutch Assembly today. --- Here Is what I found ---- ---- One of the three mounting bolts, was--- loose---- and backed out about 1/2 turn!!!!! It appeared to have not had any Loctite applied at the Factory. ---- The other two mounting bolts were Tight, they -- Obviously--- had Loctite applied at the Factory Installation. -----One of the small springs was bent, another had damage on the end, and the third appeared to be OK ----- One of the spring caps, had lots of wear on the open end, and tip. Other two, not bad. ----- The about 1/2 Inch thick material that makes up the Center of the " Starter Engage Unit " ( which appears to be Brass, its copper color, but much harder then copper) Has a Crack completely through it !! Another photo of Cracked engage Unit. Also the ElectriX After market Stator. ( For anybody who may be interested, note the larger diameter wire, than they used on the Stock Stator units ) Another comment, on pulling the Rotor, It did not move Until it finally came off. It Flew Off. After applying heat for about 30 seconds, on the 4th try, of heating and Tapping with hammer, it flew off, went about 2 feet. ( I used an Automobile harmonic balancer puller, you will need to buy 3, 8mm bolts, 3 1/2 inch long, fine thread ( 1.25 pitch ) ( High Strength Steel bolts ) for the rotor pulling job. Also a butane soldering torch will come in handy ( map gas, whatever you have for heat ) I did not find any Damage on the 72 tooth Gear, behind the Rotor. -----I'm adding a close up view, of the three Mounting Bolts, so you can see the " Staking method " used by the Factory, as called for in the Service Manual. One bolt was loose so, obviously they did not Do It Right. Note: In the photo below, see the 8mm 1.25 thread pitch " Tap " I used to clean out the threads in the bolt holes. This is the best way to remove the Old Loctite there, before reassembly, be sure to clean threads with solvent, before reinstalling the " NEW " bolts that you are going to order , when you order your New " Starter Clutch Engage Unit " -----Also adding Photo close up of the springs + weights that fit into the assembly. ( Note: the Crack in the Brass material ) -----Also Photo of Starter, and Gear Drive to the 72 tooth sprocket. ----- Also view of Entire Engage Unit as to how it fits to the flywheel ( rotor ) -----------My, Entire Engage Unit, needs to be Replaced. --------- -------The Unit has 57,300 miles on it.------ ------- The first time I heard the noise was around 20K. -------- I have Done All the Other Fixes as discussed on this web site: This is the first time I have pulled the Rotor Off. It took me about 4 hours, but I'm retired, and I don't work fast for anybody anymore !!! ( that includes the wife !!! ) Still waiting for the New Parts to get here. ( Going to be 50 F tomorrow !! well I guess I will just have to ride the Busa until I get this job done , Darn !!! )

Take a look at this page. If you don't find what you need, call Sierra...I'll bet they can help you with this. http://www.sierra-mc.com/products.asp?cat=251

According to their website, it looks like they are all set up with mini stereo type plugs to be used with portable radios and etc.

I'm not saying that something doesn't exist but I've never seen anything. You have to think that SOMEBODY makes something though.

Yamaha has some also.... http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/accessories/acsubcontaineritems/5/433/1812/11878/all/1.aspx

Glad you like it. I think they are working very well now. Especially since the re-design. It should sit nice and straight when on the stand.

Yes...I think so. I think that Mr. Tartan Terror is having a senior moment.

hmmm....it IS in the safety section. Maybe one of the other moderators beat me to moving it.

Yep. http://www.neoshotrailers.com/specials.html

They do come with a switch. Some folks mount them in various places but the most common is on the fairing. Look at the fairing, on the left side, below the handlebars. There is a 12 Volt power receptacle there and the switch is usually installed beside it. If it is the switch that came with the lights, it will be a rubber covered push button type switch.

Yes...they should work. But check out this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=51003#post51003

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