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Rocket

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Everything posted by Rocket

  1. In the earlier years, this was an option, like the cb radio was an option. Apparently J & M made the cables for Yamaha in the first place.
  2. Check out these threads http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=231400
  3. The years after 83, have reserve, we have on / off only.
  4. Not sure, but they make a replacement spring for the rear shock, as well as a non air rear shock.
  5. Sounds like a possible CMS error to me, check the solder joints first. The repair is similar to CLASS controller fix. If no cold solder joints are found, then check other components.
  6. It is a level switch, mounted in the oil pan. A low wattage soldering iron & rosin core solder will fix it up the cold solder joints.
  7. Is there enough expansion room in the clutch master cylinder, for heated fluid? If it is too full, the clutch may not fully release, possibly cause slipping. Also, there is a replacement Barnett pressure plate available, for the 1300 version of the 1st gens. This is similar to the one on the 1200 model.
  8. The dipstick referred to, is part of the oem toolkit, for checking the rear end oil level. I previously did a measured fill of mine & the gear oil level was at the bottom of the threads of the filler plug opening. So is the dipstick needed, not really once you know where the proper fill level is.
  9. It can be connection problems, but these also can get moisture in them. You can pull the tci unit out, bake it at about 110 degrees for a couple of hours. I have previously done this, after removing the cover to allow for the best venting, while baking. The tci can be a real pain to remove, due to mounting location. As for the coolant, there is a weep hole on the underside of the waterpump. Maybe a seal is starting to leak a bit, it would be a good idea to check if the impeller is the older plastic one (which cracks near the shaft) or the metal replacement.
  10. I read in the tech bulletins for my 83, to seal the intake boots to the airbox, had used a semi-drying gasket sealer for this.
  11. The cap is probably the clutch bleed nipple cover, it sits on top of the lower engine casing in that area.
  12. I also heard of people, fogging the cylinders with oil, thru the spark plug holes.
  13. Don't you mean lower right side?? Also a person can multi quote too. As shown here.
  14. What a shock to hear.
  15. Rick, I thought that you would have known better, than cross border UPS. I always specify USPS, tell the vendor that UPS delivery will be refused.
  16. Ok, I didn't realize those ones came with the throttle tube. Usually I am putting the new grip onto the existing throttle tube on the bike. Did you get the ones for 7/8" or 1 inch diameter bars, as the early 1st gen bars are 7/8", not sure on the later 1st gen (never seen one yet).
  17. Have you tried both grips on the left side, to see which has the best fit, as the one to go on the throttle tube, will be a larger diameter.
  18. Seeing that the previous poster, had mentioned only pulling the rear wheel. He is refering to the hub splines, that mesh with the ones in the diff. If you are pulling the rear wheel to lube splines, might as well do the fingers too. The hub will need to come off the wheel to lube these, 1 snap ring retains the hub assy.
  19. A work around I used yesterday, on a screw in that condition, was drill a short 1/8" hole in the head, tapped a small torx bit in the hole, from a multidriver, attached the handle & unscrewed it.
  20. Also as I have found out, the one with the grease fitted in the end cap, will make contact with the swing arm tube. The approximate contact location is inboard part of swingarm, horizontally opposed but slightly forward of swingarm bearing. A dummy plug will need to be installed in place of the grease fitting for operation. Grease fitting can go back in temporary for greasing u joint, when swingarm is dropped for lubing those bearings.
  21. It is a tool used to check the sync of the carbs. http://www.carbtune.com/ride_review_0399.html
  22. Probably grocery shopping, for feast sized meals.............
  23. Had a better look the other day, the colouring on a few gears are different, found different circlips than shown in the parts diagram(11&25) for the 83 (matched an 86 Vmax). So it looks like it was done before, but still found thrust washers needed changing.
  24. It looks like, I will be trying out this version of a press later today. As I pulled my motor yesterday & split the case. From my intial look, the dogs on the gears & shifter forks look good, will need only to change the washer & retainers (thrust washers). Note* I have not have any problems with 2nd gear, doing this as a preventative fix, along with checking the starter clutch & replacing the U joint while at it, as well.
  25. Sounds like the front forks, for changing the fork seals. Normally an air impact is used for disassembly. To break the torque on the allen head bolt, holding the damper rod in place. Air ratchets are not really suitable for doing that, as you have found out.
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